LIBRARY  OF  THE  THEOLOGICAL  SEMINARY 


PRINCETON,  N.  J. 


DU  760  . P37  1898 
Paton,  Margaret  Whitecross. 
Letters  and  sketches  from 
the  New  Hebrides 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/letterssketchesf00pato_0 


LETTERS  AND  SKETCHES 

FROM 

THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


f < ' >i'oca,.  /88JJ. 


T 


LETTERS  AND  SKETCHES 


FROM 


THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


BY 


M.  WHITECROSS  PATON 


(Mrs.  Dr.  John  G.  Patou  of  Aniwa ; 


EDITED  BY  HER  BROTHER-IN-LAW,  REV.  JAS.  PATON,  B.A. 


FOURTH  EDITION  COMPLETING  EIGHTH  THOUSAND. 


NEW  YORK 

A.  C.  ARMSTRONG  AND  SON 

51  EAST  TENTH  STREET 


PREFACE 


T N the  Second  Volume  of  the  original  edition  of 
the  Autobiography  of  John  G.  Paton,  the  Ninth 
Chapter  consisted  of  fragments  of  Letters  from  “ the 
graphic  and  gifted  pen  ” of  Mrs.  John  G.  Paton.  In 
the  Single  Volume,  or  Popular  Edition , the  exigencies 
of  space  demanded  the  excision  of  that  Chapter 
altogether.  Many  have  been  the  regrets  that  have 
reached  me,  from  readers  far  and  near,  at  the  loss 
of  what  they  regarded  as  “a  great  enrichment”  to 
the  Story  ; and  still  more  numerous  have  been  the 
expressions  of  a hope  that  those  Letters  might 
appear  entire,  containing  “ the  full-flowing  descrip- 
tions ” which  I had  ventured  to  characterize  as  “ one 
of  the  most  charming  pieces  of  Missionary  Literature  ” 
with  which  I was  acquainted. 

My  opinion  thus  reinforced,  I set  myself  to  gain, 
and  succeeded  in  gaining,  Mrs.  Paton’s  consent  to 
the  publication  of  these  Letters  and  Sketches  from 
the  New  Hebrides.  Alas,  they  are  still  only  frag- 


VI 


PREFACE 


ments  ! Some  of  the  most  memorable  of  these 
Family  Letters  have  gone  astray  in  the  hands  of 
careless  or  now  unknown  friends,  to  whom  they 
were  lent  in  the  course  of  their  annual  rounds, 
and  can  no  longer  be  traced.  None  of  them  were 
originally  intended  for  other  eyes  than  those  of 
our  Inner  Circle.  Hence  the  spontaneousness,  the 
life-like  look  and  feeling,  which  distinguish  these 
Letters,  and  make  them,  in  my  judgment,  worthy 
of  being  preserved  and  published.  Their  literary 
grace  is  of  the  unconscious  kind — the  rarest  grace 
of  all. 

A further  reason  that  has  made  me  eager  to  give 
these  Letters  to  the  world  is  this  : they  present 
another  picture  of  Mission  life  and  experiences  in 
the  New  Hebrides  from  that  portrayed  in  the  now 
famous  Autobiography  of  her  Husband.  No  feature 
will  be  found  in  the  one  contradictory  to  the  features 
in  the  other  ; but  many  lovely  and  thrilling  scenes 
of  a supplementary  and  illuminative  kind.  Here  we 
have  the  Woman’s  delicate  touch  ; we  see  with  the 
Woman’s  eye ; and,  above  all,  we  have  what  has 
been  called  “ the  saving  grace  of  humour,”  which, 
while  it  makes  us  sometimes  smile  where  the  other 
would  make  us  weep,  does  not  thereby  the  less  but 
rather  the  more  endear  to  us  those  beloved  “ Darkies  ” 
of  the  Southern  Seas. 


PREFACE 


vii 


I do  not  pretend  that  my  work  or  my  anxiety 
in  preparing  this  Volume  has  not  been  very  great. 
Unlimited  powers  were,  of  course,  given  to  me  in 
dealing  with  the  materials  put  into  my  hands  ; but 
that  only  increased  my  sense  of  responsibility.  From 
the  first  word  to  the  last,  I have  carefully  copied 
out  the  whole,  and  prepared  and  arranged  every 
page  for  the  public  eye.  But  no  skilful  or  cultured 
reader  will  need  to  be  told  that  the  Book,  as  now 
presented,  is  solely  the  product  of  one  pen  and  of 
one  mind,  that  of  the  Authoress  herself ; and  that, 
beyond  the  merest  Literary  setting  and  arrangement, 
no  part  of  the  writing  is  mine. 

It  is  my  hope  that  the  many  thousands  who  have 
read  the  Atitobiography  of  John  G.  Paton  will  rejoice 
to  see  here  the  other  but  not  less  beautiful  side  of 
the  Shield. 

JAMES  PATON, 
Editor. 

Glasgow,  November , 1894. 


CONTENTS 


i 

PAGE 

EOUND  FOR  THE  ISLANDS  ....  , . I 

(to  HER  BELOVED  SISTER  AT  EDINBURGH) 

II 

FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES  . 4 

(to  a friend  in  Stirling) 

III 

SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA  . . . - 30 

(TO  HE!  BELOVED  SISTER  AT  EDINBURGH) 

IV 

GLIMPSES  OF  THE  ANIWANS  . . . . - 59 

(TO  THE  FAMILY  CIRCLE) 

V 

EARLY  MISSION  DAYS  ......  70 

(TO  THE  REV.  DR.  MACDONALD,  SOUTH  MELBOURNE) 

VI 

THE  CHURCH  OF  GOD  ON  ANIWA  . . . .84 

(to  a LADY  IN  AUSTRALIA) 


CONTENTS 


VII 

PAGE 

FRAGMENTS: — DEATH  AND  THE  “DAYSPRING”  . . 94 

(1.  TO  A LADY  IN  EDINBURGH) 

(II.  TO  THE  CHILDREN  OF  THE  “DAYSPRING”) 

VIII 

A TRIP  TO  THE  COLONIES I04 

(to  THE  FAMILY  CIRCLE) 

IX 

FAMILY  LIFE  AND  CHURCH  LIFE  . . -125 

(to  the  family  circle) 

X 

THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD  . . . I43 

(to  the  family  circle) 

XI 

HOME,  SWEET  HOME,  ON  ANIWA  . ....  16S 

(to  the  family  circle) 

XII 

THE  MISSION  FORCES  AT  WORK  . . . . . 1 9 1 

(to  the  family  circle) 

XIII 

THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 207 

(to  the  family  circle) 


XIV 

PAGE 

THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 244 

(to  the  family  circle) 

XV 

SLAVERS  AND  FRIENDS  ......  303 

(to  the  family  circle) 

APPENDIX  TO  XV 325 

(to  her  dear  sister-in-law) 

XVI 

DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW  . . . -331 

(to  the  family  circle) 

XVII 

A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1889  . . . 355 

(to  the  family  circle) 

APPENDIX 

NOTE  BY  REV.  WILLIAM  WATT,  MISSIONARY  . 381 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

family  group  ......  Frontispiece 

WILLIAMS  ...........  19 

MRS.  G.  N.  GORDON  . . . 1 9 

REV.  G.  N.  GORDON  ........  I9 

MAP  OF  NEW  HEBRIDES  ........  28 

OLD  NOWAR  OF  TANNA  .........  52 

CHRISTIAN  ANEITYUMF.SE  CHIEF  .......  63 

THE  CHIEF  AND  TEACHERS  OF  ANIWA  ...  ■ • ■ 75 

THE  CHURCH  OF  ANIWA  ........  85 

THE  FIRST  “ DAYSPRING  ”.....  . 98 

CHRISTIAN  NATIVES  OF  ERROMANGA  . . .Ill 

REV.  J.  D.  GORDON  . . . . . . 125 

THE  MURDERER  OF  GORDON,  AND  HIS  CHILD  . 127 

THE  SECOND  “DAYSPRING”  .....  . 1 5 1 

THE  MISSION  HOUSE  ON  ANIWA  .......  179 

A SCHOOL  HOUSE  ON  ANIWA  . . . . 1 93 

HUTSHI  ............  219 

MISSION  STATION  AND  GROUP  OF  CHRISTIAN  NATIVES,  ERROMANGA  239 
YAWACI  ............  242 

MUNGAW  .........  . 25O 

LITSI  ............  250 

SKETCH  OF  VOLCANO  ON  TANNA,  BY  MRS.  PATON  ....  339 

SKETCH  OF  ERROMANGA,  BY  MRS.  PATON  . ...  343 

MISSION  STATION,  DILLONS  BAY,  ERROMANGA  . . 36 1 

THE  SCOTCH  CHURCH,  FORT  RESOLUTION  . . 38/ 


I 

BOUND  FOR  THE  ISLANDS 

(TO  HEfc  BELOVED  SISTER  AT  EDINBURGH) 

Sydney,  January  1865. 

My  own  dearest  Elizabeth, — My  heart  always 
fills,  when  I think  of  the  great  distance  there  is  now 
between  us,  and  how  long  it  may  be  before  we  meet 
again ! I began  first  actually  to  realize  it,  when 
being  towed  out,  on  the  Sabbath  morning  we  left 
Liverpool.  I could  only  bury  my  face  in  the  pillow, 
and  almost  groan  your  name  over  and  over.  By  the 
time  we  got  up,  we  were  out  of  sight  of  land,  until 
in  the  afternoon  we  sighted  the  Welsh  coast.  It  was 
a lovely  day,  and  the  villages  near  the  shore  shone 
so  pretty  and  clean,  though  the  land  itself  looked 
rocky  and  barren. 

...  I think  I described  to  you,  ere  leaving,  our 
dear  little  cabin.  We  found  it  very  comfortable 
indeed  ; the  more  so,  as  for  convenience  Captain  Ellis 
allowed  us  to  get  on  deck  by  the  “ companion  ” that 
led  up  from  the  bath-room,  communicating  with  his 
room  and  ours.  He  is  a fine  specimen  of  the  thorough 
English  gentleman,  and  has  been  exceedingly  kind 
to  us  during  all  the  voyage.  So  has  every  other 

I 


2 


BOUND  FOR  THE  ISLANDS 


Officer,  especially  Mr.  Friend,  the  first  mate,  who  did 
everything  for  our  comfort  that  he  could  possibly 
think  of. 

...  I have  been  so  engaged,  since  coming  to 
Sydney,  that  I could  not  settle  to  letter-writing  ; and 
now  (January  1 8th)  we  are  arranging  to  go  off  in 
the  Day  spring  to  Adelaide,  passing  round,  however, 
by  Hobart  Town  and  Launceston.  Mother  and  I 
are  a little  timid  about  sailing  again,  as  vve  had  a 
month’s  very  severe  sickness  at  the  commencement 
of  our  late  voyage.  Indeed,  our  dear  Mother  did  not 
quite  get  over  it,  all  the  way.  We  lived  almost  entirely 
on  deck,  only  going  down  when  absolutely  necessary  ; 
and  we,  at  least  I,  got  to  be  very  fond  of  the  sea  life, 
though,  alas,  wofully  subject  to  the  dreaded  sickness. 
We  had  sometimes  almost  to  be  carried  on  deck,  and 
lay  there  the  whole  day — our  meals  being  brought 
up  to  us,  when  we  could  face  them  at  all  ! 

. . . Having  sighted  land  only  twice — namely, 
St.  Antonio  and  Trinidad — we  reached  Sydney  on 
December  27th,  1864,  after  a very  smooth  passage  of 
ninety-five  days,  enlivened  by  two  somewhat  severe 
but  very  brief  gales.  We  entered  the  Heads  about 
six  o’clock  in  the  evening.  The  Bay  is  beyond  any- 
thing I had  ever  imagined,  and  may  truly  be  said 
to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world.  I sat  perfectly 
entranced,  and  wondering  how  I could  give  you  any 
idea  of  it,  when  Mr.  Mitchell  (the  gentleman  about 
whom  J.  H.  wrote  to  us,  and  who  has  been  such  a 
friend)  coming  up  asked  what  I thought  of  it.  I told 


A BEAUTIFUL  BAY 


3 


him  that  I was  wondering  how  I could  find  language 
to  describe  it  to  my  sister  at  home.  He  answered  : 
“ Tell  her,  it  is  indescribable.  To  attempt  it  would 
only  be  to  murder  it.  It  must  be  seen  to  be  under- 
stood ! ” And  I must  add,  I am  quite  of  that 
opinion.  To  me,  however,  at  that  moment,  it  sug- 
gested only  Loch  Lomond  on  a larger  and  grander 
scale.  But  the  hills  are  covered  with  gum  trees  ; and 
magnificent  houses  and  monuments  are  studded  here 
and  there,  high  among  the  trees,  and  far  along  the 
shore.  It  seemed  like  Fairy  Land,  with  the  pure  and 
wondrous  atmosphere.  We  had  a lovely  peep  at 
Sydney,  just  as  the  sun  was  setting  behind  the  spires  ; 
but,  for  the  time  at  least,  I had  no  inclination  to  enter 
the  land  of  strangers,  however  fascinating.  How 
different  had  it  been  dear  old  Scotland  ! So  I opened 
my  locket  in  a quiet  corner,  and  had  a good  “ cry  ” 
as  I gazed  once  more  on  your  beloved  likeness. 
How  often  have  I looked  at  it,  during  the  voyage  ; 
and  two  or  three  times  I have  caught  myself  passing 
my  fingers  lovingly  over  it,  when  too  dark  to  have 
another  look  ! 

...  We  have  been  staying  with  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Moon,  very  good  and  very  kind  friends.  I must  tell 
you  what  we  saw  in  Sydney  by  the  next  mail,  but 
the  pleasantest  thing  I met  with  there  was  your 
precious  letter.  How  I did  devour  it ! Kiss  your 
darlings.  Tell  them  they  are  never  out  of  my  mind. 

Your  ever  affectionate  sister, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 


IT 

FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  TIIE  NEW  HEBRIDES 

(to  A FRIEND  IN  STIRLING) 

Mar£,  Loyalty  Islands, 

October  17/h,  1865. 

Mv  DEAR  FRIEND, — Our  visits  to  the  different 
Colonies  we  enjoyed  very  much.  The  people  were 
exceedingly  kind  to  us,  and  some  of  them  are  now 
my  dear  friends.  Hobart  Town  and  Launceston  are 
very  like  Scotland  as  regards  climate  and  cultivation  ; 
but  Sydney  is  certainly  the  most  beautiful,  or  rather  I 
should  say  the  surroundings  of  Sydney,  for  the  town 
itself  is  rather  unfinished-looking,  and  the  buildings 
very  irregular.  The  Harbour,  however,  more  than 
makes  up  tor  any  defects. 

...  Mr.  Paton’s  work  was  so  pressing  that  he  was 
obliged  to  leave  Adelaide  the  moment  his  business 
was  finished,  and  before  it  was  thought  prudent  for 
me  to  accompany  him.  I joined  him  at  length  in 
Melbourne,  a few  days  only  before  we  had  to  sail 
back  to  Sydney.  It  was  rather  an  undertaking  to  go 
alone  thither,  with  my  Baby  only  five  weeks  old  ; but 
he  is  one  of  those  sweet  charming  little  things  that 

4 


SAILING  FOR  ANEITYUM 


5 


give  no  trouble  (so  his  mother  thinks !),  and  we 
reached  Melbourne  after  a short  and  pleasant  passage 
of  only  two  days.  I enjoyed  the  short  stay  there 
very  much  ; was  out  driving  a great  deal,  and  saw 
most  of  the  town  and  some  of  the  outskirts  ; but 
missed  seeing  several  of  the  kind  friends  who  called 
for  me.  We  heard,  to  our  delight,  just  before  leaving 
Melbourne,  that  the  steamer  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Niven 
had  arrived.  We  were  obliged  to  go,  however,  as  our 
passage  had  been  taken  ; but  Rev.  Mr.  Ramsay  kindly 
promised  to  receive  them. 

. , . We  sailed  for  Aneityum  on  May  20th,  but 
did  not  get  out  to  sea  for  a few  days,  the  wind  being 
contrary.  Indeed,  our  passage  altogether  was  rather 
disagreeable,  as  our  little  vessel  was  uncomfortably 
loaded  with  goods  for  the  Mission  families,  besides 
our  own  and  Mr.  Niven’s  furniture.  A number  of 
Natives,  too,  were  being  taken  to  their  different 
islands  ; but  this  was  all  nothing,  had  the  wind  been 
favourable,  which  it  was  not  for  a great  part  of  the 
way.  In  fact,  we  got  frightened  at  last  to  ask  Captain 
Fraser  how  the  wind  was,  the  answer  for  so  many 
mornings  had  been  “ Dead  ahead  ! ” 

Mrs.  Ella  and  her  little  son  were  with  us,  going  to 
join  Mr.  Ella  at  Wea,  and  we  enjoyed  her  society 
very  much.  We  encountered  a severe  gale,  and  one 
night  we  were  startled  into  consciousness  by  a noise 
like  thunder,  and  by  water  rushing  in  upon  us.  A 
sailor  called  out,  immediately  after,  that  Mr.  Ella’s 
boat  had  gone ! A heavy  sea  had  swept  over  the 


6 FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


deck  right  in  the  centre,  carrying  all  before  it ; even 
the  davits  were  wrenched  off,  and  lost  with  the  boat 
Had  any  of  the  men  been  in  the  way,  nothing  could 
have  saved  them.  A deal  of  damage  was  done  to 
the  ship,  and  we  lost  two  centre  tables,  two  beds,  and 
some  other  things  ; but  they  never  cost  us  a thought 
— we  were  so  taken  up  with  poor  Mr.  Ella’s  loss. 
The  boat  was  a fine  large  one,  given  by  a congregation 
in  Sydney.  It  cost  between  £40  and  £50.  The 
whole  amount  lost,  Captain  Fraser  and  Mr.  Paton 
estimated  at  .£150  (or  more — I forget  the  exact 
figure),  and  all  the  work  of  a few  moments ! 

It  was  very  providential  that  no  lives  were  lost, 
with  so  many  Natives  on  board  ; but  they  are  generally 
sick,  and  safe  in  their  berths,  when  the  weather  is  the 
least  rough.  A vessel  cannot  be  manned  with  a 
Native  crew.  Captain  Fraser  has  tried  it ; but,  had 
he  trusted  them,  the  vessel  would  have  been  lost. 
At  the  very  time  they  are  most  required,  they  are 
sick  and  wrapped  up  in  their  blankets,  and  neither 
promises  nor  threats  will  induce  them  to  turn  out ! 
They  do  very  well  for  pulling  a boat,  but  even  then 
they  require  a head  and  guide. 

1 remember  seeing  a number  of  Natives  assembled 
on  the  deck-house  one  Sabbath  for  Service,  which 
Mr.  Paton  conducted  in  What  is  here  termed  Sandal- 
wood English — a sort  of  peculiar  broken  English, 
which  traders  use  with  the  Natives  all  over  the  Islands. 
I was  amazed  to  see  how  he  had  gained  the  attention 
of  all,  when  not  above  two  or  three  of  them  knew  the 


A SANDAL-IVOOD  SERMON 


7 


same  language.  They  were  looking  earnestly  into 
his  face,  and  evidently  drinking  in  every  word.  I 
crept  nearer,  and,  listening  attentively,  heard  such 
sentences  as  the  following : Jehovah  very  good.  He 
love  Black  Mail  all  same  White  Man.  He  send  Son 
helonga  Him.  He  die  for  all  Man.  I could  hardly 
help  smiling  at  first,  but  soon  got  as  interested  as  the 
Natives.  A few  of  them  came  to  our  Service  after- 
wards, but,  as  might  be  expected,  they  could  not 
understand.  At  the  first  Native  Service  Mr.  Paton 
had  a coloured  audience,  speaking  eight  different 
languages. 

Three  Tanna  men  were  on  board,  in  whom,  of  course, 
Mr.  Paton  was  most  deeply  interested — two  of  them 
having  been  “stolen”  from  him  there  by  a Hobart 
Town  whaler.  They  were  in  a vessel  in  Melbourne, 
and,  hearing  that  their  “ Missi  ” was  in  Sydney  and 
about  to  sail  for  the  Islands,  they  made  great  efforts 
to  get  to  him.  They  got  the  Mariners’  Chaplain  to 
intercede  with  their  Captain,  in  whose  hands  they 
had  sufficient  money  to  carry  them  to  Sydney.  He 
allowed  them  to  go.  They  came  by  steamer,  met 
him  on  the  street,  and,  coming  up  with  a bright  smile 
of  recognition,  exclaimed,  “ Missi  Paton  ! ” He  did 
not  know  them  at  first.  They  turned  sorrowfully  to 
each  other,  saying  in  their  own  language,  “ Missi  does 
not  remember  us.”  Upon  this,  he  instantly  recog- 
nised them.  They  were  immensely  delighted,  told 
their  story,  and  were  of  course  taken  on  board  the 
Dayspring. 


S FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


It  was  an  exciting  time  for  us  all,  when  we  came 
in  sight  of  Aneityum.  The  Natives  all  turned  out, 
and  went  flying  about  the  deck,  seizing  and  hauling 
ropes  with  all  their  might,  or  doing  anything  they 
possibly  could  to  help.  The  sound  of  “ Land  0 ! ” 
seemed  to  inspire  them  with  new  life.  We  had  never 
seen  them  so  animated,  and  did  not  indeed  know  till 
then  that  so  many  were  in  the  vessel.  Poor  things, 
they  were  delighted  at  getting  near  their  own  land. 
I assure  you,  it  is  an  interesting  sight  at  any  time  to 
watch  the  first  grey  speck,  hardly  distinguishable 
from  a cloud  in  the  horizon,  and  see  it  gradually 
develop  into  hills  and  trees  and  rocks.  As  we  could 
not  get  inside  the  reef  before  dark,  we  had  to  lie  off 
and  on  till  morning,  when  we  sailed  into  the  harbour 
and  feasted  our  eyes  on  this  interesting  island.  There 
was  the  neat  white  Church  and  Mission  House  and 
premises,  contrasting  beautifully  with  the  dark  green 
foliage,  surrounding  and  partly  concealing  them  ; 
but  what  I most  admired  were  the  tall  cocoanut  trees, 
with  their  feathery  leaves,  waving  along  the  shore. 

Mr.  McCullagh,  and  Mr.  Robertson  the  cotton  agent, 
soon  came  on  board  to  welcome  us.  We  found  they 
were  all  well,  and  anxiously  expecting  us,  as  we  were 
a month  past  the  time.  The  Dayspring  had  required 
to  be  provisioned  for  a year,  however,  and  as  Mr. 
Paton  needed  to  raise  the  money  both  for  that  and 
for  some  of  last  year’s  expenses,  it  was  impossible 
to  sail  at  the  time  appointed.  He  had  great  success 
during  this  last  visit  also,  for  above  .£1,700  were  given 


VISIT  TO  ANAMI 


9 


to  him  before  we  left  the  Colonics.  It  will  take  at 
least  £ i ,200  per  annum  to  support  the  Dayspring  * It 
sounds  a great  deal,  but  is  not  so,  in  comparison  with 
other  vessels  of  the  same  kind  ; and  it  must  always 
be  remembered  that,  owing  to  peculiar  causes,  none 
of  these  Mission  Ships  can  be  allowed  to  trade  so  as 
to  meet  the  cost  of  their  own  maintenance. 

But  I am  diverging.  We  went  on  shore  in  the 
afternoon,  and  were  earnestly  invited  to  stay — our 
rooms  having  been  prepared  weeks  before.  Mr. 
Inglis  came  next  morning,  and  we  accepted  his 
kind  invitation  to  go  to  Anami.  We  dined  at  Mr. 
McCullagh’s,  and  then  went  round  with  Mr.  Inglis  in 
the  afternoon  in  his  boat — a distance  of  from  twelve 
to  fifteen  miles.  We  enjoyed  the  sail  exceedingly, 
having  a fine  view  of  the  island  so  long  as  it  was 
light.  The  Native  Teachers’  houses  looked  life-like. 
But  for  them  I should  have  fancied  the  place  unin- 
habited. The  mountains  behind  stood  out  solitary 
but  beautiful.  The  latter  part  of  our  sail  was  by 
moonlight,  and  was  extremely  pleasant.  As  we 
neared  Mr.  Inglis’s  Station,  a bright  fire  on  the  beach 
guided  us  to  the  exact  spot.  Our  boat  was  sur- 
rounded by  a host  of  Natives,  eager  to  welcome  us. 
My  Baby  was  carried  off  in  triumph  to  Mrs.  Inglis! 

We  were  delighted  with  everything  we  saw,  as 
indeed  we  had  good  reason  to  be.  It  is  no  light 


* This  was  the  “ little  ship,”  the  first  Dayspring.  See  Auto- 
biography of  John  G.  Patou  (Popular  Edition,  p.  229). 


IO  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


matter  to  see  a benighted  and  barbarous  people  so 
thoroughly  enlightened  and  Christianized.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Inglis  are  richly  repaid  for  their  long  and  labori- 
ous toil,  in  seeing  so  many  devoted  followers  of  Christ 
amongst  those  who  were  once  Savages. 

Next  day  being  Sabbath,  we  had  the  longed-for 
pleasure  of  seeing  the  Native  Worship.  All  things 
were  really  done  “ decently  and  in  order.”  When  we 
went  into  the  Church  we  found  it  full,  the  women 
sitting  on  the  one  side  and  the  men  on  the  other — 
all  squatted  on  the  floor,  while  numbers  stood  outside 
with  their  children.  I could  not  help  thinking  that 
it  was  the  noblest  mission  on  Earth  to  carry  the 
Gospel  to  those  perishing  souls,  and  that  Mr.  Inglis 
had  honours  before  which  Earth’s  proudest  laurels 
pale,  when  I beheld  them  sitting  there  with  the  Word 
of  Life  in  their  mother  tongue. 

My  meditations  were,  however,  soon  put  to  flight 
by  the  singing,  and  I found  it  hard  to  control  my 
risible  faculties ! They  hold  on  very  tightly  to  their 
books,  and  that  with  both  hands,  but  they  do  not  by 
any  means  stick  so  fast  to  the  tune.  I am  told  that 
it  is  our  common  Psalm  Tunes  they  sing;  but,  like 
some  of  our  musical  composers,  their  variations  are  of 
such  a nature  that  the  tune  is  not  easily  recognised. 
They  sing  “ Auld  Lang  Syne  ” pretty  well,  to  a nice 
hymn,  which  Mr.  Inglis  composed,  or  translated,  I 
forget  which. 

There  are  two  Services  on  Sabbaths,  with  a short 
interval  between.  My  Baby  was  baptized  after  the 


TWO  NOBLE  MISSIONARIES 


i 


second.  I felt  it  a great  privilege  to  have  that  done 
by  Mr.  Inglis,  our  eldest  and  most  honoured  Mis- 
sionary. I had  hoped  to  have  him  baptized  by  my 
brother-in-law,  Mr.  Lyall,  at  Adelaide,  but  Mr.  Baton 
could  not  spare  the  time,  greatly  to  the  horror  of  an 
Episcopalian,  who  declared  it  was  “ unsafe  ” ! 

We  spent  such  a pleasant  week  at  Anami,  and 
heard  a great  deal  about  Mission  Work  from  Mrs. 
Inglis,  who  is  delightfully  communicative.  Both  she 
and  her  husband  were  extremely  kind,  flow  I wish 
you  could  see  the  Mission  Stations  on  Aneityum ! 
They  are  in  such  exquisite  order,  and  so  complete. 
It  takes  quite  a long  time  to  go  into  all  the  different 
places — Stores  for  all  sorts  of  things,  Schools,  Work- 
shops, etc.  It  entails  a great  amount  of  work  on  the 
Missionaries,  however,  as  they  must  personally  look 
after  everything.  Natives  are  very  willing,  but 
cannot  be  trusted  too  much.  I was  surprised  and 
delighted  to  see  the  arrangements  at  table  so  very 
nice,  and,  above  all,  so  very  like  what  they  might  be 
at  home.  All  these  things,  small  in  themselves,  are 
of  worth,  as  part  of  the  New  Life  that  has  come  with 
Christianity 

To  our  vast  delight  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Inglis  accom- 
panied us  in  our  voyage  round  the  Islands.  We 
joined  the  Day  spring  on  Monday,  the  Captain  sending 
off  boats  for  us  as  it  hove  in  sight.  Mr.  Inglis  sent 
two  boatloads  of  oranges  and  bananas,  which  were 
very  refreshing  during  the  voyage.  The  trees  in 
front  of  his  house  are  beautiful,  with  large  bright 


i2  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


oranges  hanging  in  thousands  among  the  dark  green 
leaves,  “like  golden  lamps  on  a green  night.” 

Next  afternoon,  we  arrived  at  Lifu,  and  found  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Macfarlane  and  their  children  well.  The 
following  morning,  we  met  the  Governor  of  New 
Caledonia,  newly  arrived.  He  seemed  very  agreeable, 
and  tried  to  repair,  as  much  as  possible,  the  ravages 
made  by  the  French. 

We  next  visited  Mare,  taking  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Macfarlane  to  have  a meeting  with  their  brethren 
there,  and  then  returned  with  them  before  proceeding 
to  Wca,  where  Mrs.  Ella  had  the  pleasure  of  being 
reunited  to  her  husband.  It  was  a new  field,  and 
we  left  them  in  apparently  favourable  circumstances. 
But  it  is  not  right  to  judge  from  a mere  passing  visit ; 
indeed  we  need  not  try, — for,  in  general,  only  the 
bright  side  is  then  seen,  the  Natives  all  turning  out 
quite  pleased  to  see  a nice  ship,  and  ready  to  promise 
anything.  Wea,  like  the  other  Loyalty  Islands,  is 
flat  ; but  the  beach,  for  miles  along  the  shore,  is  most 
beautiful,  and  covered  with  the  loveliest  little  shells, 
many  of  which  we  gathered  as  we  strolled  along. 
A lot  of  the  little  Natives  followed  us,  picking  up 
handfuls  and  holding  them  out  to  us,  saying,  Welly 
goot ! We  chose  what  we  considered  welly  goot,  and 
off  they  ran  for  more. 

Sabbath  was  spent  on  Wea,  and  we  had  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  the  Church  filled.  Mr.  Ella  spoke 
in  Samoan,  and  the  Teacher  translated.  The  people 
seemed  most  attentive,  and  we  left  next  morning,  well 


A REAL  SAVAGE 


1 3 


satisfied  that  there  was  at  least  a good  beginning. 
Romanism  was  the  great  drawback.  A French 
Priest  is  situated  a few  hundred  yards  from  Mr.  Ella, 
and  has,  we  have  since  heard,  abused  him  fearfully — 
even  sending  his  servants  to  thrust  Mr.  Ella  out  of 
Church  during  Communion  Service,  which  they  did 
with  great  violence.  Poor  Mrs.  Ella  fainted  ! I am 
truly  sorry  for  them  both — they  are  such  kind  and 
gentle  souls,  and  Mrs.  Ella  is  little  fitted  to  endure 
these  hardships  at  her  age.  She  was  a very  mother 
to  us  younger  wives,  and  endeared  herself  to  us  all. 

I must  not  forget  to  say  a word  about  Mare,  before 
leaving  the  Loyalty  group.  It  was  there,  if  I 
remember  rightly,  that  I first  saw  a real  Savage.  I 
recollect  so  well,  standing  at  the  head  of  the  Cabin 
stair  with  Baby,  amusing  myself  watching  the  buying 
and  selling  going  on  a-deck,  when  Baby  gave  such 
a crow  of  surprise  that  I wheeled  to  see  what  was 
attracting  him.  A naked  Savage  was  grinning  over 
my  shoulder,  with  scarlet  and  white  paint  stuck  on 
his  forehead  and  cheeks,  and  long  white  hair  stream- 
ing down  over  his  back  ! Instinctively,  I rushed  half- 
way down  the  stair  ; but,  recalling  that  I must  come 
into  contact  with  such  creatures,  I returned,  and 
rather  liked  the  poor  soul  before  I had  done  with  him. 
In  the  first  place,  we  tried  to  be  very  polite  to  each 
other,  grinning  and  nodding  and  making  signs — 
though  neither  of  us,  I am  sure,  guessed  what  the  other 
meant.  He  offered  to  take  Baby,  who  seemed  quite 
delighted  ; but  I declined  that  civility,  pretending 


i4  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


to  show  him  that  Baby  was  going  to  sleep.  He 
seemed  satisfied  with  the  encounter,  and  strutted  off 
with  all  the  majesty  of  a Prince  ! He  was,  I think, 
the  only  Savage  we  saw  on  Mare,  as  they  are  nearly 
all  civilized,  if  not  Christianized. 

It  was  Saturday  evening  when  we  arrived  ; and 
all  the  gentlemen,  as  usual,  went  on  shore  immediately 
after.  They  found  that  poor  Mrs.  Jones  had  been 
so  dangerously  ill,  and  that  she  was  still  too  weak, 
almost,  to  speak.  While  they  were  absent,  a number 
of  the  Natives  came  with  shells,  etc.,  and  with 
calabashes,  which  they  make  into  water-bottles.  I 
wanted  one  or  two,  and  Mrs.  Inglis  thought  it  wise 
to  purchase  them,  as  Mr.  Paton  had  brought  two 
boxes,  both  to  give  away  among  the  Natives,  and  to 
procure  curios  for  the  subscribers  to  the  Mission  in 
Australia.  On  asking  the  man  what  he  wanted  for 
his  wares,  he  seized  my  hat,  gave  it  a tug,  and  said, 
All  same  belonga  my  wife.  I liked  the  fellow’s  care 
for  his  wife,  not  too  often  seen  in  these  Islands  ; and 
I determined  he  should  have  a hat,  even  if  I gave 
my  own.  So  I told  him,  through  the  interpreter,  to 
return  on  Monday  morning,  and  Mr.  Paton  would 
give  it  to  him,  which  he  did. 

The  Trade  (for  I suppose  it  is  Trade)  with  the 
Natives  is  most  amusing,  and  goes  on  from  morning 
till  night,  the  deck  often  so  covered  that  one  can 
hardly  find  standing  room,  while  the  incessant  jabber- 
ing is  deafening!  Often  did  we  wish  for  a Frith  to 
depict  these  groups  with  their  varied  expressions ! 


DRESS  AND  TRADE 


15 


Numbers  stood  round  the  Captain,  with  pigs,  game, 
fowls,  taro,  etc.,  knowing  that  he  requires  many  pro- 
visions for  the  ship.  They  contemptuously  rejected 
some  things  offered  in  barter,  and  eagerly  pointed 
to  something  else,  long  strips  of  calico  being  greatly 
in  favour.  Others  would  surround  the  Missionaries, 
offering  shells,  mats, and  all  sorts  of  Native  productions; 
while  one,  perhaps,  would  be  strutting  up  and  down 
the  deck,  arrayed  in  some  wondrous  newly  acquired 
garment,  the  admired  of  all  ! But  the  most  amusing 
part  was  the  dressing , which  operation  Mr.  Paton 
seemed  to  think  quite  as  necessary  as  the  giving  of 
the  clothing.  I fancy  I see  him  still,  trying  almost 
in  vain  to  stick  the  great  awkward  arms  of  some 
delighted  recipient  into  the  right  holes  ! This  refers 
more  to  Tanna  and  Fate,  as  trade  was  most  lively 
there. 

By-the-bye,  I had  some  rather  tempting  offers  for 
Baby,  consisting  chiefly  of  pigs ! Mrs.  Fraser  told 
me  that  one  man  offered  the  Captain  four  last  year 
for  their  little  Maggie — a beautiful  and  darling  child, 
seven  months  older  than  mine.  No  doubt  the  poor 
fellow  was  offering  his  dearest  treasure.  They  have 
not  the  slightest  idea  of  what  we  call  value.  They 
simply  take  violent  fancies  for  certain  things,  and, 
like  children,  can  be  pleased  with  nothing  else.  On 
Aneityum,  for  instance,  the  Officers  of  the  Curacoa 
were  highly  amused  by  the  Natives  there  taking  a 
penny  in  preference  to  a sovereign  or  crown , offered 
for  a pig  which  was  sold  to  their  ship ! 


1 6 FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


I have,  however,  been  straying  far  from  Mare,  and 
must  return  to  it  for  a little.  Mr.  Jones  insisted  on 
having  us  ashore  every  day,  and  was  extremely  kind  ; 
all  the  more,  as  we  felt  how  great  must  have  been 
his  trouble  to  entertain  so  many  while  Mrs.  Jones 
was  ill.  I had  an  interview  with  her  for  a few 
minutes,  with  which  I was  greatly  delighted,  as  I 
had  seen  her  eldest  girl  (a  very  interesting  child)  at 
Sydney,  on  her  way  to  England  to  be  educated. 
They  all  say  that  this  is  the  trial  of  the  Mission  field 
— I mean  the  parting  with  one’s  children.  I shudder 
to  look  forward  to  it ! Our  Sabbath  Services  at  Mare 
were  particularly  interesting,  being  the  finest  sight  I 
have  yet  seen  in  the  South  Seas,  owing,  I suppose, 
to  the  Natives  being  so  much  more  intelligent  and 
further  advanced  than  the  Aneityumese.  Several 
were  even  “ taking  notes  ” during  the  sermon  ; and 
the  singing,  which  they  took  in  parts,  was  most 
beautiful. 

After  returning  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Macfarlane  and 
their  dear  children  to  Lifu,  and  landing  Mrs.  Ella 
at  Wea,  as  before  mentioned,  we  again  steered  our 
course  for  the  New  Hebrides.  The  first  we  visited 
was  Ambrim,  and  a beautiful  island  it  is.  The  high 
hills  are  covered  with  luxurious  vegetation  down  to 
the  water’s  edge.  Mr.  Inglis  and  Mr.  Eaton  went  on 
shore ; but  Mr.  Niven  preferred  not  to  venture.  It 
was  a very  anxious  time  for  Mrs.  Inglis  and  myself 
till  they  returned  safely,  for  there  was  no  knowing 
how  the  Natives  might  be  disposed.  They  seemed, 


THE  AMBRIMESE 


17 


however,  to  be  friendly,  and  even  restored  one  or  two 
rowlocks  which  they  had  stolen  from  the  Dayspring 
on  her  previous  visit. 

Next  morning  the  gentlemen  again  landed  (with 
the  exception  of  Mr.  Niven),  and  a number  of  the 
Natives  came  off  in  their  canoes  to  our  ship — fine, 
healthy,  lively-looking  fellows  they  were — examining 
everything  with  intense  curiosity,  including  Captain 
Fraser  and  ourselves.  They  felt  his  hands  and  arms, 
and  seemed  to  “like”  him,  as  do  all  the  Natives  ; for 
I believe  that  even  Savages  can  appreciate  such  a 
truly  Christian  gentleman  as  our  Captain  is.  The 
Babies  were  objects  of  extraordinary  interest  to  the 
Ambrimese,  who  pleaded  so  earnestly  (by  signs,  of 
course)  that  we  could  not  refuse  to  allow  them  to 
hold  them  for  a little,  which  they  did  with  a woman’s 
tenderness.  They  could  not  make  out  whether  mine 
was  a girl  or  a boy,  and  we  could  not  at  first  make 
them  understand.  Mrs.  Inglis,  however,  managed  at 
last  to  do  so,  and  they  received  the  intelligence  with 
shouts  of  admiration,  calling  out  Man  ! Man  ! — for 
a girl  is  looked  upon  as  rather  a calamity  by  all  the 
Blacks. 

I must  omit  much  that  is  greatly  interesting,  and 
go  on  briefly.  Ere  leaving  Ambrim,  the  Missionaries 
tried  to  induce  the  Natives  to  receive  the  Native 
Teachers  we  had  brought  from  Mare,  but  without 
success.  They  would  readily  have  taken  a white 
Missionary  ; but  the  Chief  would  not  promise  pro- 
tection to  the  Teachers,  who  were  indeed  disappointed 


2 


1 8 FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


at  having  to  be  brought  off  again.  We  sincerely 
hope  that,  after  one  or  two  visits  of  the  Dayspring 
they  will  be  more  favourably  inclined. 

Our  next  place  of  visitation  was  Fate,  which  looked 
exceedingly  fresh  and  lovely  as  we  approached  it 
in  the  early  morning.  It  is  a very  fertile  island,  and 
I was  struck  with  the  peculiarly  brilliant  green  of  the 
vegetation,  which  seemed  more  beautiful  than  in  any 
island  of  the  group.  Mr.  Morrison  came  off  to  wel- 
come us,  and  to  invite  us  all  ashore.  His  home  is  on 
a little  island  off  the  mainland,  where  they  live  at 
present  for  the  sake  of  a chance  of  health  ; and  it  is 
a lovely  spot,  with  a fine  garden  in  front.  The  view 
from  the  windows,  too,  is  so  hopeful  ; for,  instead  of 
the  wide  ocean,  which  is  but  suggestive,  to  me  at 
least,  of  the  enormous  distance  betwixt  us  and  Home, 
there  is  just  a little  belt  of  beautiful  blue  water,  and 
then  the  richly  wooded  island  beyond.  Pine-apples 
are  plentiful  there  ; and  I was  in  great  hope  that,  if 
we  did  not  get  to  Tanna,  we  might  be  settled  on 
Fate,  as  I should  feel  so  privileged  to  be  near  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Morrison. 

The  Sabbath  exercises  were  extremely  enjoyable, 
and  we  could  hear  them  singing  hymns  in  their  own 
homes.  We  had  visits,  also,  from  several  of  the 
surrounding  Heathen  ; and  one  day  I played  a few 
simple  airs  on  Mrs.  Morrison’s  brrmonium,  to  which 
they  listened  mouths  and  eyes  wide  open  ! I was 
amused,  immediately  afterwards,  to  see  their  mingled 
terror  and  admiration  for  a little  vase  on  a side-table. 


THE  MARTYR  ISLAND 


*9 


They  seemed  thoroughly  afraid  to  approach  ; but,  at 
last,  one  bolder  than  the  others  took  a very 


stride,  having  one  of 
as  possible, 
the  slightest 
danger.  He 
ever,  to  touch 
gave  the  others 
go  and  exam- 
O u r next 
being  E rro- 
the  most  en- 
painful  interest 
its  previous 


his  feet  as 


long 
near  the  door 
ready  to  fly  on 
appearance  of 
managed,  how- 
it,  and  that 
confidence  to 
ine  it. 

resting-place, 
manga,  was  of 
trancing  and 
to  us  all,  from 
sorrowful  his- 


tory. It  was  Sabbath  afternoon  as  we  drew  near,  and 
we  were  rather  alarmed  to  hear  the  sound  of  guns  firing. 
On  casting  anchor,  one  of  Mrs.  Henry’s  men,  Sandal- 


MRS.  G.  N.  GORDON.  REV.  G.  N.  GORDON. 


wood  Traders,  came  off  and  told  us  that  they  were  in 
great  danger,  owing  to  a dispute  between  Mrs.  Henry 
and  the  Natives.  Soon  we  had  the  extreme  pleasure 


20  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


of  welcoming  Mr.  Gordon  on  board.  Our  Mission 
would  sustain  a severe  loss  indeed,  were  he  also  to 
become  a victim  to  this  treacherous  people,  like  his 
noble  Martyr-Brother  ! On  looking  round,  one  could 
scarcely  believe  that  such  murder  and  bloodshed 
had  ever  desecrated  the  lovely  scene  which  presented 
itself.  The  little  river,  where  Williams  fell,  seemed 
to  flow  from  a beautiful  glen,  while  the  peaceful- 
looking  hills,  rising  on  either  side  and  away  into  the 
distance,  were  bathed  in  the  shadowy  light  of  the 
setting  sun.  With  the  exception  of  Port  Resolution 
on  Tanna,  I have  never  witnessed  such  a lovely  and 
deeply  interesting  landscape. 

We  remained  at  Dillon’s  Bay  four  or  five  days,  till 
peace  was  restored.  The  murderer  of  John  Williams 
met,  for  that  purpose,  with  said  Mrs.  Henry,  on 
board  the  Dayspring.  We  were  all  assembled  on  deck, 
and  the  negotiation  was  carried  on  with  grave  dignity. 
Mrs.  Henry  delivered  her  speeches  to  Mr.  Inglis, 
who  translated  them  into  Aneityumese  to  a Native 
Teacher,  who,  in  turn,  translated  them  to  the  Erro- 
mangan  in  his  own  tongue,  and  backward  in  the 
same  way — Mr.  Gordon  not  being  able  to  be  present. 
At  last,  something  was  said  about  payment  for  the 
damage  done  to  the  Native  plantations  by  Mrs. 
Henry’s  cows,  which  roused  that  Madame’s  wrath  to  a 
degree.  She  suddenly  dropped  her  assumed  dignity 
like  a cloak,  and,  clearing  the  space  between  herself 
and  her  opponent  with  a bound,  she  brought  her 
clenched  fist  within  an  inch  of  his  nose,  shrieking, 


THE  ISLAND  OF  TANNA 


21 


“ Me  pay  you  ! Me  pay  you  with  a stick  ! ” Which 
payment  the  man  not  seeming  to  anticipate  favour- 
ably, some  altercation  ensued  ere  peace  could  be 
finally  restored. 

Next  day  we  sailed,  bearing  away  Mr.  Gordon,  in 
order  to  have  his  presence  at  the  general  meeting 
on  Aneityum  with  the  other  brethren,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Morrison  having  come  with  us  from  Fate.  Tanna, 
the  island  I had  most  wished  to  see,  at  last  came 
full  in  view,  and  we  sailed  pretty  close  to  it  for  a 
considerable  time  before  anchoring  at  Black  Beach. 
In  passing  along,  I was  struck  with  the  variety  as 
well  as  majesty  of  the  scenery.  One  part  seemed  to 
be  pretty  level,  near  the  shore,  and  covered  with  fresh 
green  grass — only  I was  rather  suspicious  if  it  was 
grass,  as,  in  all  these  Islands,  truly  “ Distance  lends 
enchantment  to  the  view.”  The  mountains  of  the 
New  Hebrides  look  extremely  beautiful,  a little  way 
off,  with  the  changeful  shadows  of  the  sunlight  playing 
upon  them.  The  beauty,  however,  in  a great  measure 
vanishes,  when  you  set  foot  on  shore,  and  see  broken 
cocoanut  shells  and  all  sorts  of  rubbish  piled  about ; 
while,  instead  of  sheep  grazing  (if  they  could  graze 
among  such  stuff),  multitudes  of  pigs  are  grunting  in 
every  direction,  having  apparently  strayed  from  their 
styes,  which  are  stuck  here  and  there  all  around, — but 
which  you  find,  on  closer  inquiry,  are  the  habitations, 
not  of  the  pigs,  but  of  the  people  ! 

When  we  came  to  anchor  at  Black  Beach,  we  found 
three  Trading  Vessels  lying  there,  one  of  which  had 


22  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEIV  HEBRIDES 


providentially  rescued  our  Native  Teachers  there, 
some  months  previously,  when  about  to  be  killed, 
and  carried  them  to  Mr.  Gordon’s  care  on  Erromanga, 
where  we  received  them  ; so  that  Tanna  was  now 
in  a dark  state  indeed — no  Missionary,  no  Teacher! 
It  was,  I think,  Saturday  afternoon,  and  the  Mission- 
aries and  their  wives  went  all  on  shore — with  the 
exception  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Niven.  When  we  offered 
to  shake  hands  with  the  women,  they  shouted  and 
laughed  at  us.  They  wear  little  grass  skirts  round 
their  middle,  and  beads  round  their  necks.  A few 
of  them  came  forward,  and  seemed  pleased  with  the 
little  things  we  gave  them,  such  as  strips  of  red  calico, 
etc.  But  we  took  care  not  to  trust  ourselves  too 
much  with  them,  and  did  not  go  many  yards  from 
the  boat,  merely  taking  a look  at  the  little  Church,  and 
the  Teachers’  houses,  which  they  had  been  forced  to 
quit.  Some  of  the  Tannese  were  all  the  while  on  board, 
whom  Captain  Fraser  kept  as  hostages  for  our  return. 

Next  day  being  Sabbath,  Mr.  Paton  had  a Service 
on  shore  in  the  afternoon.  As  the  language  on  that 
side  of  the  island  is  quite  different  from  the  language 
at  Port  Resolution,  a Chief,  who  knew  both,  translated 
very  nicely,  being  an  old  friend  of  Mr.  Paton’s,  and 
making  a great  fuss  over  his  “Missi.”  We  sang  a 
hymn  in  Tannese,  which  Mr.  Paton  had  translated  in 
earlier  days — he  reading  the  line,  and  Mr.  Morrison 
leading  the  tune,  Old  Hundred , which  went  bravely. 
One  of  their  former  Teachers  prayed,  and  Mr.  Paton 
addressed  them,  the  Chief  interpreting.  A few  of  the 


A BURIAL  AT  SEA 


23 


women  put  in  an  appearance  too,  and  all  listened 
attentively,  till,  lo ! three  or  four  boats . arrived  from 
the  neighbouring  vessels  to  “trade,”  and  off  they  all 
scampered  as  fast  as  they  could,  leaving  us  the 
Church  by  the  shore  all  to  ourselves  ! 

We  weighed  anchor  on  Monday,  and,  on  our  way 
to  Port  Resolution,  the  vessel  lay  off  and  on  near 
Mr.  Matheson’s  old  Station,  while  the  Missionaries 
landed  to  visit  the  Natives,  and  next  morning  again 
we  lay  off  and  on  at  Port  Resolution.  There,  how- 
ever, a solemn  Service  had  to  be  performed.  One  of 
the  Tannese  lads  who  came  with  us  had  during  the 
previous  days  sunk  rapidly,  evidently  the  result  of 
years  of  overwork  and  hard  usage  in  the  “ Traders,” 
from  which  great  numbers  of  them  die.  Mr.  Paton 
was  his  constant  attendant,  being  able  to  speak  to 
him  in  his  mother  tongue,  and  fed  him  with  wine,  tea, 
etc.  Alas,  he  died  the  night  before  we  reached  Port 
Resolution,  and  we  buried  him  next  morning,  within 
sight  of  his  longed-for  home ! It  was  Mr.  Inglis’s 
turn  to  conduct  Worship,  which  was  on  deck,  and  he 
read  appropriate  passages  of  Scripture,  after  which 
the  body  was  gently  lowered  into  the  deep.  It  was 
a very  solemn  scene,  and  went  keenly  home  to  me  ; 
for  my  youngest  brother,  a noble  lad,  although  not 
exactly  buried  at  sea,  died  on  entering  Leith  Harbour 
and  was  thus  borne  home  from  Cuba. 

Numbers  of  Mr.  Paton’s  old  friends  came  off  to 
welcome  him  very  heartily,  and  Baby  and  I had  a 
good  share.  They  seemed  truly  pleased  to  see  us, 


24  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


especially  Nowar,  the  old  Chief.  But  he  warned  him 
not  to  go  a-shore,  nor  let  the  vessel  draw  near,  as  the 
Heathen  Party  had  shot  one  of  his  men  a-fishing,  only 
a few  days  before.  Indeed,  it  is  a wonder  that  any 
of  the  Friendly  Party  survive  at  all,  after  such  in- 
cessant fighting!  Some  of  the  Heathen  Chiefs  them- 
selves also  came  on  board.  Fine  and  vigorous-looking 
men  they  are,  and  such  hair ! Their  heads  have  the 
appearance  of  being  covered  with  twine,  small 
portions  of  their  hair  being  twisted  from  the  root 
to  the  tips  (generally  half-way  down  their  backs) 
with  something  like  thread.  They  were  in  a state  of 
great  delight  about  the  Baby,  and  were  particular 
in  asking  Mr.  Paton  if  both  it  and  the  woman 
“ belonga  ” him  ! 

You  may  imagine  how  intensely  moved  I was,  as  we 
neared  the  scene  of  his  former  trials  and  persecutions. 
A more  grandly  beautiful  spot  one  could  not  well 
conceive.  The  mountains  rise  with  such  a majestic 
sweep,  terminating  in  sharp  peaks,  and  covered  with 
luxurious  vegetation.  The  beautiful  white  beach  is 
lined  with  cocoanut  trees,  with  here  and  there  bold 
brown  crags  jutting  out  and  finely  contrasting  with 
the  dashing  spray  beneath.  Through  the  glass  I 
could  see  the  gable  of  Mr.  baton’s  house,  still  stand- 
ing on  a rising  ground  in  the  centre  of  the  Bay  ; and 
he  pointed  out  to  me,  by  the  different  colour  of  the 
trees,  that  Sacred  Spot,  so  indelibly  photographed  on 
his  memory.  Oh,  how  I longed  to  spend  a quiet 
hour  by  the  grave  of  her,  in  whose  footsteps  I feel  so 


THE  ISLAND  OF  ANIIVA 


2j 


unfit  to  follow,  and  who  met  her  trials  so  unshrink- 
ingly and  alone— alone,  so  far  as  regards  female 
companionship  and  sympathy  ! 

On  leaving  Tanna,  we  had  a view  of  the  Volcano 
at  night,  with  its  red  smoke  rising  and  brightening 
all  around  ; and  we  anchored,  or  rather  lay  off  and 
on,  at  Aniwa  next  day,  and  were  relieved  to  find  the 
Native  Teachers  there  safe  and  well.  That  island  is 
not  particular  for  anything,  being  a flat  little  place, 
but  we  nearly  lost  our  vessel  there,  owing  to  a sudden 
gale  sweeping  round,  while  Mr.  Gordon  and  Mr. 
Paton  were  on  shore.  Captain  Fraser  saw  what  was 
coming,  and  had  a flag  put  out  ; but  they  not 
observing  it  for  a few  minutes,  and  having  a heavy 
sea  to  contend  with  when  they  did  set  off,  the 
Dayspring  was  almost  driven  into  the  reef ; for,  had 
the  Captain  gone  outside  before  the  Missionaries  got 
on  board,  he  could  not  have  returned  for  them  that 
day,  and  to  have  left  them  on  Aniwa  might  have 
been  to  sacrifice  them.  The  moment  they  were  on 
deck,  the  boat  was  hauled  up,  both  “ watches  ” set 
to  work,  and  the  vessel  swung  round,  almost  grazing 
the  reef  till  we  passed  away  from  the  island.  It  was 
a time  of  painful  anxiety  to  the  good  Captain,  who 
prudently  kept  the  danger  from  us  ladies  till  all 
was  over. 

Our  last  island,  before  returning  to  Aneityum, 
and  which  we  came  up  to  early  next  morning,  was 
Fotuna.  I was  greatly  taken  with  it — it  so  much 
resembled  Stirling  Castle,  but  higher  in  the  middle 


26  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


with  a tableland  extending  along  one  side,  and  about 
a fourth  part  as  high.  It  seemed  so  home-like  and 
healthy,  having  no  fever  and  ague,  which  is  more 
than  can  be  said  of  any  other  island  of  the  group. 
The  people,  too,  were  already  prepared  for  a Missionary, 
whose  life  would,  humanly  speaking,  be  quite  safe,  as 
they  are  not  inclined  for  war,  though  energetic-looking 
and  healthy,  superior,  indeed,  to  any  we  had  seen 
with  the  exception  of  the  Tanncse. 

This  island  is  supposed  to  contain  about  seven 
hundred  inhabitants,  and  I had  serious  thoughts  of 
reigning  there,  as  it  would  be  a nice  little  field  for 
one  Missionary  and  his  wife ! My  inclinations  were 
divided  betwixt  it  and  Pango,  the  next  Station  to 
Mr.  Morrison’s  on  Fate.  There  is  no  anchorage  at 
Fotuna,  so  the  Dayspring  lay  off  and  on,  while  we 
spent  a very  pleasant  day  on  shore.  Rhu,  one  of 
the  Rarotongan  Teachers  there,  had  been  some  time 
on  Aneityum,  and  was  returning  with  us  to  his  wife 
and  children.  On  the  voyage,  he  had  often  urged 
Mr.  Paton  to  go  to  Fotuna ; and,  before  he  left  the 
ship,  he  sat  on  the  deck  for  more  than  an  hour, 
pleading  most  eloquently  with  “Missi”  to  remain 
with  them,  and  every  now  and  again  winding  up  his 
arguments  with  a warm  grasp  of  the  hand,  and  the 
exclamation,  Me  too  much  love  you  ! Me  do  anything 
for  you  ! I felt  I would  almost  like  to  go  for  Rhu’s 
sake  alone  ; I never  in  all  my  life  heard  such  pathetic 
pleading. 

When  we  came  on  shore  at  Fotuna,  we  had  some 


THE  FOTUNESE 


27 


hard  climbing,  and  were  followed  as  usual  by  a long 
train  of  admirers.  The  Mission  premises  are  on  the 
raised  tableland,  and  among  trees.  Great  crowds 
of  people  came  to  look  at  us,  as  I believe  we  are  the 
first  white  women  who  ever  landed  on  Fotuna.  The 
ladies  were,  in  consequence,  very  curious  to  have  us 
examined  properly ; and  they  went  about  it  in  a 
business-like  way,  as  I can  testify  from  the  pokes 
and  thumps  received.  They  always  felt  themselves 
at  the  same  time,  to  see  how  far  we  were  alike  ! 
Poor  things,  they  had  yet  to  learn  that  we  were 
sisters,  resting  under  the  same  penalty  and  equally 
in  need  of  and  entitled  to  the  same  Saviour. 

On  their  examinations  becoming  rather  too  minute, 
I escaped  into  the  house,  which,  by  the  way,  was  a 
very  nice  one  for  a Teacher’s.  The  other  Rarotongan 
Teacher  and  his  wife  had  been  residing  with  Rhu’s 
wife,  during  his  absence.  They  are  very  nice  people, 
and,  like  most  of  their  class,  rather  fine-looking,  with 
almost  courtly  manners,  and  held  in  great  respect 
by  the  Natives  on  account  of  their  being  so  much 
lighter  in  colour.  Their  habitation  boasted  a few 
dishes ; and  they  had  a nice  dinner  prepared  for  us, 
consisting  of  young  pig,  fowls,  yam,  and  capital  green 
cocoanuts.  Afterwards  there  was  a service  in  the 
Church,  when  Mr.  Inglis  baptized  Rhu’s  children. 
Mrs.  Inglis  had  found,  on  questioning  the  Aneityumese 
Teacher,  who  came  round  to  see  us,  that  she  and  her 
husband  were  not  well  used  by  the  Natives,  who 
forced  them  to  work  for  them,  and  stole  their  food, 


28  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES 


etc.,  for  they  are  great  thieves.  So  Mrs.  Inglis 
instructed  her  to  run  home,  bring  her  husband  and 
their  goods,  and  return  to  Aneityum. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Inglis,  Mr.  Paton  and  I,  waited  while 
the  first  boat’s  load  of  Missionaries  were  being  taken 
to  the  ship,  and  had  a long  and  delightful  walk,  and 
then  a seat  on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  which  we  enjoyed 
so  much,  it  being  cool,  and  the  view,  though  not 
varied,  calm  and  pretty.  On  one  side  and  far  above 
us  were  the  lofty  grassy  rocks,  and  right  beneath  the 
placid-looking  water,  with  the  Dayspring  in  the  dis- 
tance and  the  little  boat  wending  to  and  fro.  Seeing 
it  return  for  us,  we  went  down  to  the  landing,  and 
there  Mr.  Paton  got  into  conversation  with  a man  who 
knew  Tannese  pretty  well  and  was  urging  “ Missi  ” 
to  remain.  Mr.  Paton  asked  him  why  he  was  so 
anxious  for  that,  and  the  man  ingenuously  replied 
that  when  he  was  over  in  Tanna  he  saw  him  have  a 
number  of  boxes  and  that  he  gave  the  Natives  clothes 
and  other  things!  But,  as  Mr.  Inglis  very  wisely 
remarked,  we  cannot  expect  them  to  long  intelligently 
for  Christianity  before  they  know  what  it  is.  They 
see  only  the  outside  tokens  of  its  presence. 

We  found,  on  getting  into  the  boat,  that  th~ 
Aneityumese  Teachers  were  waiting  at  some  distance 
along  the  shore  ; so  we  steered  in  that  direction, 
meeting  a number  of  great  whales,  which  fortunately 
did  not  pay  us  any  attention.  We  took  up  our 
Teachers ; but,  at  the  same  moment,  some  of  the 
Fotunese  jumped  into  the  boat,  and  would  not  be 


BACK  TO  ANEITYU M 


29 


persuaded  to  go  back,  evidently  thinking  it  too  good 
an  opportunity  to  be  lost  for  visiting  Aneityum.  We 
knew  there  would  be  no  time  to  send  them  back  from 
the  ship  ; and  if  we  had  pitched  them  out  into  the 
sea,  where  they  would  have  been  perfectly  at  home,  yet 
they  might  have  taken  revenge  on  the  Native  Teachers. 
Mrs.  Inglis  held  up  her  fingers  and  counted  how 
many  “Moons”  it  would  be  ere  the  ship  could 
return  ; but  it  was  all  of  no  use  ! They  sat  grinning 
at  her  with  the  greatest  composure,  and  were  taken 
on  to  Aneityum.  There  we  arrived  next  evening, 
being  Saturday,  after  a six  weeks’  deeply  interesting 
and  very  profitable  voyage  amongst  the  Islands  of  our 
Mission  field.  . . . 

Yours  affectionately, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton 


Ill 

SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 

(TO  HER  BELOVED  SISTER  AT  EDINBURGH) 

Aniwa,  New  Hebrides, 

November  1867. 

My  own  dearest  Elizabeth.  ...  I often  wish  you 
could  all  look  in  upon  us  in  our  pretty  ISLAND  HOME, 
for  we  have  long  since  got  into  our  new  house.  How 
I did  appreciate  the  doors  and  windows  here,  after 
living  two  or  three  months  without  them  ! The 
Natives  gave  us,  or  me  rather,  so  much  more  of  their 
company  than  was  quite  agreeable  ; for  Mr.  Paton 
was  generally  away,  building  the  house  with  the 
Aneityumese  who  had  come  with  us  for  that  purpose. 
I fear  I had  not  too  much  confidence  in  the  black 
faces  that  were  always  peering  over  my  shoulder, 
when  I was  getting  Home-letters  ready,  and  eagerly 
inquiring,  What  for  you  make  paper  about  mati 
A niiva  ? 

Now  I am  writing  in  our  large  airy  parlour,  free 
from  interruption  by  the  Natives  for  at  least  a little 
while.  The  house  is  not,  of  course,  like  a Home  one  ; 
though  I think  it  a model  of  simplicity  and  comfort, 

30 


OUR  ISLAND  HOME 


Si 


with  smooth  white  walls  and  broad  verandah.  The 
roof  is  thatched  with  sugar-cane  leaf,  and  the  doors  and 
windows  (of  French  type)  were  brought  from  Home. 
The  foundation  is  raised  high,  and  it  is  so  pleasant  to 
look  out  on  the  ground  which  slopes  gently  to  the  gate. 
There  would  be  fine  scope  for  a landscape  gardener 
here  ; but  the  space  is  being  simply,  and,  I think, 
prettily  laid  out,  with  an  oval  patch  of  beautiful  grass 
just  in  front,  and  a broad  coral  walk  winding  on 
either  side  down  to  the  gate.  The  sides  are  planted 
chiefly  with  bananas,  as  much  for  their  useful  fruit  as 
for  their  beauty,  and  they  are  pretty,  with  their  great 
long  leaves  stirring  gently  with  the  slightest  wind  ! 
The  background  is  equally  nice,  though  differently 
laid  out  from  the  front  ; and  the  kitchen  and  similar 
premises  are  built  to  the  side.  The  fence  around  is 
made  of  reeds,  and  looks  like  light  basket-work. 
Altogether,  you  would  think  mine  a lovely  and 
inviting  Home,  and  you  see  it  can’t  possibly  suffer 
from  comparison,  as  there  are  only  the  Native  huts 
all  around  ! 

Mrs.  Inglis  provided  me  with  excellent  servants, 
and  we  have  two  good  Christian  men  as  Native 
Teachers.  The  one  living  beside  us  is  a valuable 
helper  to  Mr.  Paton,  and  an  enlightened  character 
too,  having  been  about  eleven  years  at  Melbourne, 
working  at  all  sorts  of  things,  making  good  use  of 
his  eyes  during  that  time,  and  learning  to  talk 
English  of  course.  Kanathie , his  wife,  is  one  of 
Mrs.  Geddie’s  trained  women,  and  does  everything 


32 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 


thoroughly.  She  too  talks  a little  English,  and 
approaches  more  to  a companion  on  that  account. 

I am  sure  Kanathie  can  never  know  what  a thrill 
of  comfort  and  hope  her  presence  gave  me,  that  day 
we  landed  on  Aniwa ! I was  eager  enough  to  step 
out  of  the  Dayspring  into  the  little  boat  that  was  to 
carry  us  ashore  ; but  as  we  neared  it,  and  saw  black 
creatures  (for  really  they  hardly  looked  like  human 
beings)  peering  at  us  from  among  the  reefs,  with  not 
the  flicker  of  a smile  of  welcome  on  their  faces,  I 
really  began  to  tremble  with  a sort  of  dread,  and 
wondered  if  they  were  thirsting  for  our  blood.  They 
seemed  such  a terrible  contrast  to  everything  around, 
for  it  was  a lovely  morning,  and  the  beautiful  light- 
blue  waves  were  sparkling  in  the  sun  as  they  slowly 
chased  each  other  along  the  beach.  I tried  to  hum 
a tune,  to  keep  up  at  least  a cheerful  appearance, 
but  it  was  harder  work  than  I had  anticipated  ! 
When  Mr.  Paton  stepped  ashore,  and  began  to  lead 
the  way  with  our  little  Boy  in  his  hand,  a nicely 
dressed  woman  in  a pretty  buff  jacket  and  straw  hat 
came  forward  and  took  my  hand  to  guide  me  over 
the  reefs.  I stood  still,  gazing  up  in  very  amazement 
at  sight  of  anything  so  civilized  ; and  Mr.  Paton  had 
to  explain  to  me  that  this  was  the  Teacher’s  wife, 
whose  very  existence  I had  forgotten.  I scarcely  ever 
felt  such  a clinging  to  any  one  in  all  my  life  as  to 
that  poor  woman  ; and  I began  to  walk  with  a 
firmer  tread,  when  1 thought  how  she  too  had  given 
up  home  and  friends  and  everything,  to  come  here 


FIRST  DAY  OF  MISSION  LIFE 


33 


for  Christ’s  sake,  with  her  husband,  where  there  was 
not  a soul  to  cheer  and  comfort  them.  These  Native 
Christian  Teachers  are  really  the  true  Pioneers  of  the 
Mission,  and  deserve  far  more  sympathy  than  we  do ! 

How  anxiously  did  I watch  for  a smile  from  any 
of  the  women  that  day  ; and  really  they  were  very 
kind  and  civil,  and  did  not  refuse  to  shake  hands, 
although  I rather  think  I am  the  first  white  woman 
that  has  landed  among  them.  Indeed,  they  would 
certainly  have  taken  my  heart  by  storm  with  their 
bright  smiles,  had  I not  been  already  sufficiently 
inclined  to  love  them. 

We  commenced  our  establishment,  as  you  are 
aware,  in  the  little  Native  Church,  and  a considerable 
body  of  the  people  turned  out  to  stare  at  us.  Just 
fancy  me,  perched  on  the  top  of  several  mattresses, 
holding  quite  a levee , while  Mr.  Paton  was  at  the 
boat-landing,  receiving  our  boxes  and  getting  them 
sent  up  to  the  house.  Messrs.  Cosh  and  Neilson  were 
busy  putting  up  a bed  ; and  I would  have  preferred 
some  active  employment  too  ; but  it  was  thought 
necessary  for  me  to  keep  a sharp  look-out,  just  to 
prevent  our  chattels  from  walking  away  ! 

The  Day  spring  left  us  that  afternoon,  and  we  all 
gathered  round  for  our  first  meal.  We  had  plenty 
of  provisions,  but  as  yet  nothing  was  unpacked  to 
cook  with  ; so  we  made  an  attack  upon  a barrel  of 
biscuits,  and,  thanks  to  Mrs.  Geddie’s  kind  forethought, 
cooked  salt  beef  and  bread  ; while  Mrs.  Inglis,  fearing 
little  Bob  might  have  to  rough  it  more  than  was 

3 


34 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 


good  for  the  wee  man,  had  sent  a basket  of  eggs  and 
sponge  cake  and  nice  things,  to  last  for  a long  time. 
Kanathie  brought  a huge  roasted  yam  too  ; and,  one 
of  the  Aneityumese  having  taken  off  his  hat  and 
reverently  asked  a blessing,  we  all  proceeded  with  a 
will ; for  our  appetites  had  been  sharpening  since 
morning,  and  all  things  tasted  sweet.  Mr.  Paton  and 
I made  boxes  do  duty  as  tables  and  chairs,  and  the 
rest  squatted  beside  us  on  the  ground,  there  being 
no  separate  tables  that  day ! It  is  not  the  way, 
exactly,  that  people  commence  their  housekeeping 
at  Home,  but  I think  it  far  better  ; at  least,  it  had  all 
the  freshness  of  novelty,  and  I thoroughly  enjoyed  it. 

After  finishing  our  repast,  we  got  one  end  of  the 
building  screened  off  with  matting,  and  made  up  our 
own  snug  little  Bed-Room.  The  other  end,  where 
our  boxes  were  piled  up,  was  concealed  with  bed- 
covers ; while  the  middle  space  was  left  for  a great 
variety  of  uses — Sitting-Room,  sleeping  spot  for  the 
Aneityumese,  and  Place  of  Worship  ! Then  we  set 
about  getting  unpacked  what  we  barely  required  for 
cooking,  etc.  ; but,  in  the  thick  of  our  operations, 
darkness  fell,  and  we  had  to  make  the  best  of  our 
way  to  our  beds,  having  stupidly  forgotten  to  provide 
lights  while  we  could  still  see  to  find  them ! So 
ended  my  first  day  of  Mission  Life. 

What  a protection  I felt  that  little  band  of  Aneityu- 
mese to  be  during  those  early  weeks,  for  I thought  the 
Natives  would  hardly  attempt  any  harm  while  they 
were  with  us  ; and  I had  always  one  or  other  of  them 


A MORNING  HYMN 


35 


with  me,  while  Mr.  Paton  was  away  building  about 
half  a mile  distant.  Nay,  the  first  morning  I awoke 
on  Aniwa,  just  before  daybreak,  after  listening  a 
moment  or  two,  in  terror,  for  a stealthy  footstep  or 
any  sort  of  unwelcome  sound,  the  stillness  was  broken 
by  a Hymn  of  Praise  from  those  sable  worshippers, 
who  had  already  begun  their  morning  devotions  ! 
You  can  imagine  how  sweetly  it  sounded  in  these 
surroundings,  lifting  my  thoughts  upward  ; and  I 
soon  fell  asleep  again,  feeling  the  music  of  those 
words,  “ God  reigneth.” 

A few  weeks  served  to  place  us  on  a more  con- 
fidential footing  with  each  other — I mean  the  Natives 
and  me  ; for  Mr.  Paton  seemed  to  take  for  granted 
from  the  first  that  they  were  all  his  dear  friends , 
though  most  of  them  received  us  with  a great  deal 
more  sauce  than  was  palatable  ! They  are  shrewd, 
and  a number  of  them  really  clever  fellows  ; but  those 
who  have  been  in  Trading  Vessels  are  awfully  know- 
ing",  and  very  impudent.  It  is  really  rich  to  hear 
them  talking  in  their  Sandal-Wood  English,  pretend- 
ing to  know  all  about  everything,  and  putting  on 
such  a serious  face  when  telling  some  of  their  more 
outrageous  lies,  invariably  adding,  with  a grave  shake 
of  the  head,  That  no  gammon  ! I used  to  find  it 
extremely  difficult  to  sit  with  a solemn  face,  under 
these  circumstances. 

Indeed,  the  trial  to  my  risibles  I found  it  hardest  to 
bear  was  that  which  befell  me  especially  on  Sabbaths. 
The  first  of  these  days,  in  particular,  presented  a 


36 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 


ludicrous  scene  in  the  way  of  dress  ; and  it  was  only 
by  a most  desperate  effort  that  I could  manage  to 
keep  a long  face,  while  watching  the  Natives  coming 
into  the  Church.  We  had  arrived  on  the  Tuesday  ; 
a number  of  garments  had  been  distributed  among 
the  people,  and  from  twenty  to  thirty  turned  out  to 
the  Worship.  One  man,  I remember,  came  prancing 
in,  looking  so  delighted  with  himself  in  a snow-white 
vest — absolutely  nothing  else  ! Another  came  stalk- 
ing majestically,  with  a woman’s  skirt  pinned  round 
his  throat,  and  the  tips  of  his  fingers  appearing  at  the 
bottom  of  it.  A third  had  a Native  bag  done  up  so 
as  to  represent  a hat,  which  he  took  off  with  quite 
the  air  of  a gentleman  as  he  entered  the  door.  One 
man  had  on  a nice  little  jacket  I had  presented  to  his 
wife  ; and,  indeed,  every  one  who  wore  any  clothing 
at  all  did  so  in  the  absurdest  fashion. 

The  effort  at  self-control  was  fast  becoming  un- 
endurable, when  the  worthy  Missi  unintentionally 
proved  “the  last  straw.”  His  face  was  a picture  of 
adoring  thankfulness,  and  his  prophetic  soul — uncon- 
scious of  anything  grotesque — saw  them  already  on 
the  way  to  Glory.  He  whispered,  “ O Maggie, 
shouldn’t  we  be  grateful  to  God  to  see  them  all 
coming  out  to  Church,  so  nicely  dressed !”  He  was 
adding  something  about  “ jewels  ” and  “ trophies,” 
but  I was  already  half-way  out  of  the  Church,  under 
cover  of  a convenient  fit  of  violent  coughing,  and  just 
managed  to  slip  round  a corner  before  going  into 
prolonged  convulsions ! Pray  forgive  me  ; I loved 


SA VA GE  INDEPENDENCE 


37 


them  none  the  less  ; but  that  phrase — so  nicely 
dressed — was  rather  more  that  my  woman’s  soul 
could  withstand. 

The  women  were  not  quite  so  grotesque  in  their 
attempts  as  the  men  ; though,  even  yet,  they  prefer 
putting  on  a dress,  as  they  would  a shawl,  with  the 
sleeves  crossing  in  front.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  soon 
they  will  all  wear  clothes  ; but  they  have  made  less 
advance  in  this  respect  than  in  any  other,  since  we 
came.  They  do  so  like  to  go  about  in  their  Native 
state,  though  most  of  them  put  on  something  when 
they  come  to  the  Worship.  A few,  very  few,  perhaps 
a score,  always  wear  clothing ; but,  oh,  it  is  sickening 
to  see  so  many  of  them  coming  about  with  nothing 
but  paint  stuck  all  about  over  their  bodies ! The 
dark  colour  of  their  skin  softens  off  the  effect  a very 
little,  though  ; and  there  really  is  a look  of  free  in- 
dependence and  dignity  about  them,  as  they  stalk 
along  so  erectly,  one  after  the  other,  for  they  never 
walk  two  or  three  abreast  ; and  they  are  much  better 
off,  in  many  respects,  than  your  Poor  at  Home. 
Properly  speaking,  they  don’t  know  what  poverty  or 
labour  is ! They  have  no  one  to  oppress  them  in  any 
way,  each  man  being  his  own  Master ; and,  as  for 
the  Chiefs,  their  power  is  more  nominal  than  real. 
Of  course,  one  glance  at  the  Home  privileges,  which 
the  poorest  may  enjoy,  shows  how  infinitely  superior 
is  their  situation,  viewed  as  a whole. 

Aniwa,  however,  does  not  seem  to  have  some  of 
the  horrid  customs  practised  on  Tanna  and  some  of 


»S  SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 

the  other  Islands.  There  are  Widoivs  here,  and  the 
women  generally  are  more  kindly  treated.  Indeed, 
I was  quite  delighted  to  hear  one  of  them  scold  a 
man  most  energetically  for  some  offence,  two  or  three 
days  after  arriving ; not  that  I think  it  Woman’s 
most  beautiful  function  to  be  always  attempting  to 
bring  the  lords  of  creation  into  subjection,  but  the 
fact  that  she  even  dared  to  speak  her  mind  so  re- 
vealed a great  deal. 

Life,  humanly  speaking,  is  perfectly  safe  here  ; I 
mean  more  particularly  our  life,  for  the  Natives  don’t 
scruple  much  about  shooting  each  other,  though  no 
murders  have  occurred  lately.  I would  not  be  much 
afraid  to  meet  almost  any  of  them  alone,  for  really 
they  are  a most  desirable  set  of  Savages,  although  it 
was  some  little  time  ere  I could  feel  safe  among  them, 
and,  about  a fortnight  or  three  weeks  after  coming 
to  Aniwa,  I had  a thorough  fright.  I happened  to 
be  alone  in  the  house  one  day  after  dinner,  and, 
hearing  a noise  in  the  end  containing  the  goods,  I 
lifted  the  curtain  and  looked  in ; but  it  was  some 
time  before  my  eyes  became  accustomed  to  the  dark- 
ness, as  the  boxes  excluded  nearly  all  the  light.  At 
last  I saw  a pair  of  eyes  glaring  at  me,  and  dropped 
the  curtain  in  terror,  wondering  whether  it  could 
possibly  be  a wild  beast  ; but  the  owner  of  the  eyes 
soon  made  his  appearance  in  the  shape  of  a fierce- 
looking  little  man,  in  a great  rage ! Kagaru  came 
right  behind  him,  with  some  tools  in  his  hand  which 
Mr.  Paton  had  sent  him  to  search  for ; and  this  man 


“ YOU  PLENTY  LIE  ! 


39 


had  been  looking  on,  and  evidently  thought  I was 
watching  lest  he  stole  anything.  He  exclaimed,  in 
a voice  trembling  with  passion,  What  for  you  look 
me  ? “ Because  I did  not  know  who  was  there,”  I 

replied.  You  plenty  lie  ! You  'f 'raid  me  se-teal.  Me 
no  se-teal , me  come  worship.  What  for  you  look  me 
se-teal  ? 

I assured  him  he  was  mistaken,  but  he  could  not 
understand  me  well,  and  strode  off  in  great  indigna- 
tion, coming  back  again,  just  after  Kagaru  had  gone 
to  carry  his  message,  and  with  him  a party  of  about 
twenty.  Of  course  I made  sure  I was  going  to  be 
dispatched  at  once,  but  thought  I should  die  first  of 
fright,  as  they  all  came  in  at  the  door ! I tried  to 
appear  as  unconcerned  as  possible,  and,  Bobby  being 
brought  back  by  his  nurse,  there  was  a fine  excuse 
for  taking  my  work  outside  while  he  played  about, 
for  there  I thought  I might  have  some  small  chance 
of  escape.  There  was  a little  cleared  space  in  front 
of  the  house,  and  they  all  followed  me  out  and  sat 
down  right  opposite  on  the  verge  of  the  bush,  with 
a dozen  yards  or  so  between  us  ; and  there  we  sat, 
hour  after  hour,  sewing,  and  amusing  the  child,  all 
the  while  that  man  never  lifting  his  eyes  off  me,  but 
shouting  every  now  and  again,  You  plenty  lie  ! You 
all  same  1'iapolo  ! etc.,  etc.  I did  not  mind  the  com- 
pliments, but  had  a wholesome  dread  of  the  ugly- 
looking  club  that  he  held.  I thought  Mr.  Paton 
never  would  return  that  day,  and,  when  it  began  to 
get  dark,  I could  stand  it  no  longer,  but,  catching  up 


40 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 


the  child  in  my  arms,  sauntered  carelessly  along  till 
I had  a little  of  the  bush  between  us  ; and  then  I 
did  make  a run  for  it,  never  looking  round  till  I 
landed  at  my  husband’s  side  ! Poor  Bobby  thought 
it  grand  fun,  and  made  the  woods  ring  with  laughter. 

I might  have  saved  myself,  however,  this  little 
escapade.  The  man,  I have  since  learned,  meant  no 
real  harm.  He  is  an  excitable  fellow,  though,  and 
very  forbidding  in  appearance,  having  one  side  of  his 
face  polished  black,  and  the  other  always  daubed 
with  white  paint.  Have  they  not  strange  ideas  of 
beauty,  to  disfigure  themselves  with  such  stuff  when 
they  want  to  look  their  best ! 

About  a week  after  this,  we  had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  them  in  full  dress,  at  a Heathen  Dance  which 
they  made  in  honour  of  the  burning  of  the  coral  to 
make  lime  for  our  house.  I was  along,  one  day, 
looking  at  them  building,  and  we  were  amazed  to  see 
a long  procession  of  men  and  women  coming,  with  a 
wild  and  fantastic  appearance.  On  hearing  there  was 
to  be  a Heathen  Dance,  I remained  till  it  commenced, 
anxious  to  witness  the  scene;  and  really  it  is  a blessing 
one  does  not  see  such  things  just  at  first  coming,  for, 
if  I had,  I fear  I could  not  have  remained  on  the 
island  five  minutes  ! It  began  so  very  suddenly ; 
and,  though  of  course  very  differently  carried  out,  it 
greatly  resembled  the  principle  of  a ball  or  dancing 
party  at  Home.  The  women  are  painted,  though  not 
with  rouge.  Flowers,  too,  or  rather  beautiful  varie- 
gated leaves,  are  their  ornaments  ; but  they  wear 


A HEATHEN  DANCE 


4i 


such  an  enormous  quantity,  that  they  look  like 
moving  shrubs.  The  men  have  long  waving  plumes, 
fixed  in  the  top  of  their  hair,  with  shells,  and  every- 
thing they  fancy  as  ornaments  stuck  all  over  them. 

When  they  reached  the  Imrai,  the  sacred  cleared 
ground,  where  they  were  to  perform,  close  to  our 
house,  I waited  to  see  how  they  would  arrange 
themselves  ; but  they  suddenly  commenced  with  a 
horrid  yell,  rushed  furiously  round  the  lime-pit  for 
about  five  minutes,  and  then  stopped  as  suddenly. 
After  that,  they  took  it  more  leisurely,  three  or  four 
of  them  sitting  apart  to  keep  up  the  singing,  which 
was  almost  fine,  but  more  like  chanting  than  dance 
music.  They  go  through  the  dance  in  a pretty  orderly 
manner,  but  with  much  more  energy  than  grace.  They 
don’t  “walk”  through  the  figure,  but  literally  beat 
the  ground  with  their  feet,  every  now  and  again 
yelling  and  rushing  round  the  lime-pit  in  the  way 
they  commenced.  I fancy  it  was  kept  up  till  morning, 
for  we  heard  the  shouting  all  through  the  night. 

There  is  always  a great  feast  on  these  occasions, 
consisting  of  pigs  and  all  sorts  of  Native  fruit  ; and 
the  whole  affair  is  attended  with  many  evils,  for  the 
people  get  so  excited  that  they  don’t  care  what 
wickedness  they  commit.  A number  of  them  came 
to  ask  Mr.  Paton  if  he  was  very  angry,  or  if  it  would 
break  the  Worship.  He  thought  it  best,  however,  not 
to  interfere  too  much  with  their  old  habits,  till  he  had 
engaged  them  with  something  better.  All  the  same, 
he  faithfully  showed  them  the  evils  arising  from 


42 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANUVA 


such  a thing,  and  they  have  given  it  up  long  since, 
being  now  interested  in  what  is  higher  ; illustrating 
Chalmers’s  famous  phrase,  “ the  expulsive  power  of  a 
new  affection.” 

The  Aneityumese  with  us  were  much  interested, 
as  I saw,  in  the  Festival  and  Dance.  No  doubt,  it 
brought  to  mind  many  things  in  the  former  days 
of  their  own  Heathenism.  They  were,  to  the  people 
here,  a living  epistle  of  the  fruits  of  Christianity  ; and 
those  of  them  who  could  speak  in  Tannese,  under- 
stood by  many  Aniwans,  gave  very  telling  addresses 
at  the  Worship,  contrasting  their  present  condition 
with  the  past.  When  they  left  us,  at  the  end  of  five 
weeks,  I never  felt  so  lonely  in  all  my  life.  The 
D:iyspri?tg  came  to  pay  us  her  farewell  visit  for  the 
season,  and  bear  away  these  voluntary  helpers  back 
to  their  own  island.  I longed  to  go  on  board  and  see 
dear  Mrs.  McNair,  who  was  ill  with  fever  ; but  the 
sea  was  too  rough,  and  I could  only  stand  on  the  reef 
and  watch  the  little  vessel,  as  it  rose  and  fell  in  the 
stormy  distance.  The  Aneityumese  went  off  in  the 
little  boat  that  took  our  letters,  and,  as  we  waved 
our  last  adieus,  I felt  for  the  first  time  the  utter 
desolation  of  being  the  only  white  woman  amongst 
untried  Heathen  ; and  oh,  it  is  desolate ! I can’t 
describe  the  awful  feeling. 

I looked  at  Kanathie,  to  see  how  she  was  bearing 
up,  when  her  countrymen  were  all  leaving,  and  I 
thought  that  really  the  woman’s  heart  was  made  of 
stone  ; she  was  chewing  a stick  of  sugar-cane,  and 


OUR  OWN  HOUSE 


43 


laughing  heartily!  But,  now,  I think  my  own  heart 
must  have  turned  to  something  of  the  same  sort,  for, 
whoever  comes  or  goes,  it  creates  so  little  emotion 
there.  I have  never  known  what  it  was  to  have  a 
long  day,  or  five  minutes,  to  indulge  in  melancholy 
— except  during  the  time  I was  so  ill.  I never  knew, 
till  coming  here,  what  a healthy  thing  it  is  for  both 
mind  and  body  to  have  plenty  to  do  ; especially 
when,  since  the  dry  season,  we  have  not  known  what 
it  was  to  feel  ill. 

That  evening  on  which  the  Daysprhig  left,  it  had 
brought  us  a large  mail ; and,  I think,  letters  never 
were  so  precious,  but  they  are  always  precious  here. 
We  sat  far  into  the  next  morning,  devouring  their 
contents.  A few  weeks  after  that,  we  got  into  our 
NEW  HOUSE,  and  have  been  so  comfortable  ; though, 
as  yet,  it  consists  only  of  two  rooms  ; but  they  are 
large,  with  a wide  lobby  between,  the  kitchen,  etc., 
being  outside.  I never  appreciated  a house  as  I do 
this  one,  having  seen  the  labour  it  cost,  and,  posi- 
tively, I felt  a compunction  about  putting  down  the 
matting,  for  then  the  evenly  laid  floors  could  not  be 
seen  ! The  great  drawback  is  that  we  have  no  view, 
and  you  know  that  I admire  a good  one.  But  the 
people  were  intent  upon  us  buying  this  ground, 
instead  of  any  other,  it  being  their  Sacred  Ground 
where  they  performed  their  Heathen  ceremonies, 
offered  sacrifices  to  the  Devil,  etc.  Kagaru  and  Mr. 
Paton  have  dug  up  ever  so  many  of  the  bones  of  these 
victims  while  levelling  the  ground.  The  Natives 


44 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIIVA 


think  it  a clever  thing  to  have  chased  Tiapolo  out  of 
his  headquarters,  and  taken  possession.  Some  of  the 
most  superstitious  are  under  the  impression  that  he 
has  taken  his  final  departure  from  Aniwa  ; and  they 
dread  every  affliction  as  a punishment  for  sending 
him  off. 

The  advent  of  the  little  White  Chief,  when  our 
home  was  ready  for  him,  caused  tremendous  re- 
joicings. It  softened  me  wonderfully  to  the  forbid- 
ding-looking Savages,  when  they  figured  as  Baby 
Worshippers — especially  when  it  was  my  Baby  they 
adored  ! They  would  watch  by  the  house  for  hours, 
on  the  chance  of  getting  a look  at  him.  Every 
movement  of  his  little  hands  was  a new  wonder,  and 
brought  down  showers  of  applause — for  was  he  not  a 
Alan  Baby  ? The  Aniwans  look  upon  him  as  their 
very  own,  and  call  him  their  White  Chief.  Bobby’s 
Aneityumese  nurse  is  quite  jealous  of  the  compli- 
ments given  to  his  wee  Baby  Brother ! 

I got  new  insight  into  Native  character,  during 
those  weary  weeks  of  convalescence,  learned  many 
things  regarding  them,  and  have  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  they  are  the  veriest  mixture  of  contradictions 
in  all  creation.  One  day,  you  are  wound  up  to  a 
pitch  of  enthusiasm,  feel  that  they  are  your  mainstay, 
and  that  you  might  learn  at  their  feet  (I  mean  the 
Aneityumese  Teachers  and  servants)  ; the  next,  that 
they  are  as  little  to  be  relied  on  as  children,  and 
that  you  must  be  at  the  beginning,  middle,  and  end 
of  everything.  Now,  for  instance,  Kagaru  gave  me 


A BLACK  MAN'S  PRAYERS 


45 


more  solid  comfort  through  his  prayer,  on  the  night 
I was  so  near  death,  than  it  has  ever  been  my  lot  to 
receive  from  any  white  Minister.  John,  feeling  he 
must  have  some  human  sympathy,  sent  to  tell  him 
I was  fast  dying.  His  wife  and  he  were  in  the  room 
at  once  ; and  a score  or  two  of  Savages  trooped  in 
behind,  choking  up  the  place  almost  to  suffocation. 
John  instantly  manufactured  errands,  to  get  a few 
of  them  quietly  outside,  while  doing  all  that  mortal 
man  (or  indeed  the  cleverest  of  Doctors)  could  do 
to  save  me.  Amidst  all  the  din  and  bustle,  clearer 
even  than  my  own  husband’s  frantic  appeals,  came 
Kagaru’s  low  and  earnest  tones  as  he  prayed  in 
Aneityumese  ; and  the  words  that  he  often  slowly 
repeated  to  the  Lord — A minjinaig,  A minjinaig  ( = take 
care  of,  take  care  of)  Missi  Paton  the  Woman — gave 
me  more  quietude  and  comfort  than  I can  ever 
express.  There  was  One,  then,  who  could  and  did 
“ take  care  ” of  me  ! 

But  then,  weeks  after,  when  I was  able  to  take  an 
intelligent  view  of  my  surroundings,  this  is  what  I 
first  remember  seeing: — John,  sitting  by  my  bedside, 
with  an  old  straw  hat  on  the  back  of  his  head,  and 
a huge  tin  basin  between  his  knees  half  full  of  what 
tasted  like  very  sweet  thin  porridge,  with  which  he 
was  feeding  me  lovingly  from  the  cook’s  large  iron 
spoon  ! He  assured  me  that  it  was  water  gruel ; that 
he  had  got  into  the  way  of  making  it  nicely  now  ; 
but  that  he  could  not  find  a clean  dish  on  the  premises 
to  put  it  in  ! He  was  so  proud  of  his  cooking  that 


46 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 


I asked  for  the  recipe , and  you  have  it  here  : Equal 
parts  of  meal,  sugar,  and  water  (a  cupful  of  each  for 
one  dose)  ; boil  all  together,  till  there  is  a smell  of 
singeing,  whereby  you  know  it  is  sufficiently  cooked ! 

We  had  first-class  faithful  servants,  and  my  cook 
could  dress  and  truss  a fowl,  and  make  “ gravy  ” fit 
for  any  table,  as  he  always  does  for  our  own  ; but 
sick-room  cookery  was  beyond  him.  It  never  occurred 
to  the  others  to  wash  dishes,  so  long  as  there  were 
clean  ones  to  be  had  ; hence  they  went  through 
the  whole  stock,  leaving  an  ample  dinner  set,  two 
breakfast  and  two  tea  sets,  waiting  to  be  cleaned 
when  I was  ready  to  take  command  again  ! Yet, 
they  were  very,  very  kind  in  many  ways,  and  would 
sit  fanning  me  by  the  hour  in  the  hot  sultry  weather, 
when  they  might  have  been  enjoying  themselves 
outside.  My  Baby  throve  splendidly,  and  we  both 
got  a right  Royal  welcome  when  we  made  our  first 
appearance  at  Church. 

Our  fine  new  Church  stands  close  to  our  house. 
The  building  of  it  is  the  most  interesting  work  that 
has  taken  place  on  this  island.  The  very  manual 
labour  (which  some  might  think  regrettable)  was, 
however,  a special  means  of  bringing  the  people 
under  the  influence  of  the  preached  Word  ; for  when 
Mr.  Paton  used  to  go  visiting  the  different  villages 
and  urging  the  people  to  come  to  Church,  he  found 
them  at  such  variance  with  each  other,  that,  if  a man 
from  one  district  came,  it  was  sufficient  to  keep  the 
rest  away  ; and  for  a long  time  our  congregation  only 


A HOUSE  FOR  JEHOVAH 


47 


numbered  from  about  six  to  twenty.  The  persons 
from  different  Tribes  could  hardly  meet  without 
bloodshed.  There  was  nothing  but  rumour  of  wars, 
though  numbers  of  the  Natives  seemed  willing  rather 
to  worship  than  to  fight. 

The  feasting  and  dancing  season  was  drawing 
near  ; and  Mr.  Paton  thought  that,  if  he  could  get 
them  all  actively  employed,  it  might  draw  them 
together  in  a friendly  way,  and  prevent  a great  deal 
of  wickedness  ; so  he  proposed  the  building  of  a new 
Church.  He  found  it  very  inconvenient  to  have  the 
old  one  at  such  a distance  from  our  house ; and, 
besides,  it  was  too  small  for  the  number  of  people 
that  Mr.  Paton  intended  and  hoped  to  see  at  the 
Worship.  He  laid  his  plans  before  them,  one  day, — 
telling  them  he  wished  all  the  people  of  Aniwa  to 
come  and  build  a House  for  Jehovah,  at  their  old 
Sacred  Ground,  being  nearer  the  centre  of  the  island  ; 
that  he  wished  every  man  to  bring  a stick  to  help  to 
put  it  up,  and  every  woman  to  plait  some  cocoanut 
leaves  for  the  roof ; that  it  would  be  a great  work, 
and  take  many  days  to  finish  it  ; and  to  bear  in  mind 
that  they  would  receive  no  payment  for  this,  as  they 
had  got  for  the  Printing  House  and  the  other  houses 
they  had  built  for  him— for  this  House  was  to  belong 
to  all  the  men  of  Aniwa,  not  to  the  Missi ; but  that 
he  himself  would  work  with  them,  and  give  all  the 
nails  or  other  things  they  could  not  provide. 

They  had  several  pigs  killed  over  the  subject  ; for 
two  or  three  of  them  never  meet  to  talk  over  any 


48 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA. 


important  matter,  without  discussing  a pig  at  the 
same  time  ! The  greater  part  agreed,  and  soon  had 
a commencement  made  ; but  it  might  almost  be  said 
that,  while  they  wrought  with  one  hand,  witn  the 
other  they  held  their  weapons.  Indeed,  the  most 
deadly  enemies  worked  at  the  farthest  possible 
extremes,  glaring  occasionally  across,  as  if  they  would 
dearly  like  to  do  something  ! 

One  man,  in  particular,  owed  the  safety  of  his  life 
to  taking  part  in  the  work  of  Church-building  ; for  he 
was  in  danger  from  more  quarters  than  one,  being 
a troublesome  and  bad  fellow.  He  had  been  hiding 
about  for  some  time,  but  made  his  appearance  when 
this  work  began  ; and  he  toiled  from  morning  to 
night  with  a will,  for,  as  he  triumphantly  informed 
the  Missi,  they  would  not  dare  to  kill  him  while  he 
was  building  Jehovah’s  House.  One  of  his  enemies 
came  also,  and  said  in  Tannese  : O Missi,  you  should 
not  have  begun  this,  till  the  men  of  Aniwa  had  done 
fighting ; for  I wanted  to  shoot  Nelwang,  but  now  I 
dare  not  break  the  Worship. 

As  the  building  of  the  Church,  however,  advanced 
their  interest  deepened,  till  all  their  jealousies  and 
quarrels  were  absorbed  in  the  excitement  of  the  work, 
and  the  greatest  enemies  would  stand  side  by  side, 
passing  the  tools,  and  talking  cheerfully  to  each  other. 
It  was  really  a treat  to  see  them  all,  after  a hard  day’s 
work,  gathered  around  outside  the  Cook-House,  and 
enjoying  a large  kettle  of  tea — a thing  they  are  very 
fond  of!  When  carrying  any  heavy  load,  or  doing  any 


JOYFUL  WORK 


49 


hard  work,  they  always  give  peculiar  shouts.  It  seems 
as  natural  for  them,  as  for  sailors  to  sing  out  when 
pulling  ropes  ; and  the  most  gladsome  sound  I ever 
heard  was  the  shouting  when  they  were  bringing  the 
pillars  to  support  the  roof.  We  would  hear  the  noise 
in  the  distance,  gradually  waxing  louder  and  louder, 
till  thirty  or  forty  men  would  appear,  hurrying  along 
with  an  enormous  tree  on  their  shoulders,  and  making 
a deafening  noise  as  they  passed  the  house — lots  of 
them  looking  out  at  the  corner  of  their  eyes  to  know 
if  they  were  seen  ! Of  course,  we  always  took  good 
care  to  be  at  the  door,  to  show  our  admiration  and 
to  cheer  them  on,  and  that  seemed  to  please  them 
amazingly. 

The  heavy  end  of  all  the  work,  as  you  may  ima- 
gine, fell  to  Mr.  Paton  ; but  he  was  right  glad  to  do 
his  part  for  such  a work,  and  more.  It  does  not  suit 
him  to  be  encased  in  a pulpit,  so  he  made  a nice 
platform  ; and  his  desk  is  covered  with  crimson 
velvet  and  tassels — a present  from  one  of  the  Aus- 
tralian Congregations.  You  will  be  apt  to  laugh  at 
the  incongruity  of  velvet  drapery  in  a Native  build- 
ing, nevertheless  it  looks  pretty.  My  seat  is  made 
opposite  ; and  the  entrances  to  the  building  are  on 
either  side  of  it.  There  are  eighteen  windows,  but 
really  I don’t  know  the  number  of  feet.  The  ground 
is  laid  with  small  white  coral,  and  the  Natives  sit  on 
plaited  cocoanut  leaves. 

How  proud  the  people  were  when  the  Church  was 
finished  ! And  we  were  no  less  so,  I can  assure  you 

4 


50  SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 

I think  few  Home  Churches  can  ever  have  been 
opened  with  such  intense  feelings  of  interest  and 
hope  ; but,  strange  to  say,  instead  of  the  good  turn- 
out we  expected,  there  were  fewer  even  than  usual — for 
they  are  so  dreadfully  afraid  of  offending  his  Satanic 
Majesty,  although  they  profess  to  hate  Tiapolo. 
When  they  saw,  however,  that  he  did  not  wreak 
his  vengeance  on  those  who  did  come,  the  first  two 
Sabbaths,  the  others  gained  courage  ; and  since  then, 
the  attendance  has  steadily  increased,  till  now  it 
averages  about  a hundred  and  twenty  on  Sabbath 
and  sixty  on  Wednesday.  Their  behaviour,  too,  at 
the  Worship,  is  very  good,  and  some  of  them  give 
nice  addresses,  for  Mr.  Paton  generally  asks  one  or 
two  of  them  to  speak  or  engage  in  prayer. 

Their  prayers  are  usually  most  reverent.  But  they 
might  be  more  polite  to  each  other  in  their  addresses, 
for  the  speaker  generally  begins  by  telling  his 
brethren  that  they  are  like  pigs , dogs , serpents , etc., 
and  winds  up  by  asking  them,  with  great  indigna- 
tion, how  long  they  mean  to  continue  their  black- 
hearted conduct.  They  possess  the  advantage  of 
knowing  all  that  has  been  going  on  ; and,  if  any 
flagrant  wickedness  has  been  committed  during  the 
preceding  week,  the  perpetrators  do  get  the  benefit 
of  it ; while,  if  the  speaker  happens  to  have  been 
himself  one  of  the  worst,  he  is  conveniently  oblivious 
of  the  part  he  acted  ! This  seldom  occurs,  though,  as 
it  is  only  the  best  men  who  are  asked  to  say  a few 
words. 


THE  WHITE  SHELLS  OF  NOWAR 


5» 


One  Sabbath,  some  time  after  we  came,  when  the 
people  were  in  a very  disturbed  state,  owing  to  one 
or  two  deaths  that  had  occurred,  Mr.  Paton  asked 
Pavingin,  one  of  the  men  that  had  been  on  a visit 
to  Tanna  just  before  we  came  to  Aniwa,  and  whom 
the  Dayspring  had  picked  up  and  brought  on  with  us. 
We  were  much  struck  with  the  attention  that  his 
speech  elicited.  We  could  not  tell  exactly  what  he 
said  ; but  we  noticed  him  pointing  once  or  twice  to 
the  shells  he  wore  on  his  arm,  while  talking  very  im- 
pressively. We  learned,  afterwards,  that  he  had  been 
telling  them  an  interesting  incident  that  occurred  on 
Tanna,  when  the  Day  spring  called  on  her  way  hither. 
It  seems  that,  when  dear  old  Nowar  found  he  could 
not  have  his  old  Missi  back  again,  he  took  Pavingin 
aside  and  told  him  that  he  now  gave  Missi  Paton 
into  his  charge,  and  begged  him  earnestly  to  do 
everything  he  could  to  make  him  comfortable,  and 
to  tell  the  people  of  Aniwa  to  be  strong  to  do  the 
Worship  of  Jehovah  ; for  the  Tannese  had  treated 
Missi  Paton  so  badly  that,  though  he  and  his  people 
wished  him  back,  the  other  Missis  were  afraid  to  let 
him  come  alone,  and  now  they  were  all  left  without 
a Missionary.  Nowar  then  finished  up  by  taking  the 
white  shells  from  his  own  arm,*  binding  them  round 
Pavingin’s,  and  telling  him  to  wear  them,  and  every 
time  he  looked  at  them  to  remember  his  words  about 
being  kind  to  Missi.  We  did  not  know  of  this  at 


See  Aidobiography  of  John  G.  Paton  (Popular  Edition,  p.  344)- 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 


52 


the  time ; but  the  narrative  did  great  good  to  our 
impressible  Aniwans. 

It  occurs  to  me,  however,  that  I have  never  told 
you  of  that  interesting  visit  to  Tanna.  We  had  to 
go  into  Port  Resolution,  on  our  way  here,  for  shelter 
over  the  Sabbath  ; and  though  I enjoyed  getting 
inside  the  Bay  for  the  first  time,  it  unsettled  our 


OLD  NOWAR  OF  TANNA. 


minds  about  coming  to  Aniwa  afterwards.  I,  at  least, 
had  got  fairly  reconciled  to  it.  Nowar  was  intensely 
disappointed,  when  told  that  the  Missionaries  would 
not  consent  to  Mr.  Baton’s  coming  alone.  He  said 
comparatively  little,  but  his  venerable  and  expressive 
face  showed  how  he  felt  it,  as  he  sat  mute  on  the  deck 
with  the  tears  in  his  eyes.  Oh,  how  I loved  and 
respected  him  ! — this  man  that  risked  his  life  to  save 
my  husband.  I had  read  of  such  devoted  love,  but 


THE  PLEADING  OF  NOWAR 


53 


have  never  seen  another  living  specimen  ; and  deeply 
did  I feel  for  the  disappointed  old  Chief,  as  he  at  last 
silently  disappeared  over  the  side  of  the  Dayspring 
into  his  canoe, — but  binding  us  to  be  sure  and  come 
to  see  his  place  that  day. 

You  may  imagine  how  it  stirred  Mr.  Paton’s  old 
memories,  especially  when  we  went  on  shore  ; and 
Nowar,  having  at  last  found  the  use  of  his  tongue, 
made  one  grand  effort  to  keep  his  friend.  He  must, 
somehow,  have  got  it  into  his  head  that  I was  the 
hindrance,  for  he  directed  all  his  eloquence  to  me. 
Of  course,  I did  not  know  more  than  a few  words 
of  the  language  ; but  there  was  no  mistaking  the 
meaning  of  his  earnest  and  pleading  gestures.  He 
took  me  to  see  the  places  where  Mr.  Paton  and  he 
had  lain  concealed  in  the  bush — sometimes  for  days  ; 
and  he  showed  me  the  very  scars  on  his  body,  where 
he  had  received  the  wounds  intended  for  “ my  Missi.” 
Then,  he  held  up  his  arms  to  show  how  strong  they 
were  to  protect  him  still  ; but  assuring  me  there  would 
be  no  more  fighting,  for  he  would  stay  on  his  own 
ground  ; and  he  had  chosen  a lovely  spot  for  our 
house  on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  and  commanding  a fine 
view  of  the  Bay.  What  could  I say  to  the  dear  old 
Chief?  I got  Mr.  Paton  to  explain  that  I was  as 
anxious  as  himself  to  live  on  Tanna  ; but  that  all  the 
other  “ Missis”  thought  it  was  not  good  for  us  to  go 
alone  to  such  a large  island,  and  that  Captain  Fraser 
had  no  orders  to  land  our  goods  there.  Nowar, 
however,  removed  that  difficulty  too,  at  least  to  his 


54 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 


own  satisfaction,  by  telling  us  that  if  we  could  just 
get  the  things  pitched  overboard,  he  and  his  men 
would  land  them  all  ashore  in  a few  minutes!  A 
number  of  Nowar’s  followers,  old  friends  of  my 
husband,  backed  up  all  these  appeals,  and  joined 
earnestly  in  the  entreaty  of  their  Chief. 

Was  it  not  very,  very  hard  to  leave  them?  Mr. 
Paton,  feeling  it  most  keenly,  was  decidedly  of  that 
opinion,  and,  indeed,  had  his  mind  firmly  made  up 
to  stay,  and  risk  a vote  of  censure  or  sentence  of 
excommunication,  or  whatever  else  the  next  Annual 
Meeting  might,  in  its  wisdom,  see  fit  to  pronounce ! 
Experience,  however,  has  proved  that  it  was  well  that 
we  followed  the  decision  of  the  meeting.  Mr.  Inglis, 
also,  in  one  of  his  kind  letters,  has  been  assuring 
Mr.  Paton  that  he  believes  him  to  be  doing  more 
real  work  for  Tanna  here,  than  by  labouring  unaided 
amongst  the  dense  masses  there.  We  hope  this  may 
truly  be  the  case  ; for  the  Aniwans  can  nearly  talk 
the  language  of  the  Tannese,  and  have  thereby  great 
influence  on  their  neighbouring  Islanders.  On  this 
account,  particularly,  Mr.  Paton  has  set  himself  to 
get  some  of  the  best  of  them  instructed  and  trained 
to  go  thither  as  Native  Teachers. 

The  fact  that  the  Aniwans  understand  Tannese 
has  been  an  unspeakable  advantage  to  my  husband’s 
work,  and  is,  I believe,  one  main  cause  of  the  people 
here  having  improved  so  rapidly.  Mind,  I don’t 
mean  to  infer  that  conversions  have  taken  place 
already,  though  the  conduct  of  a few  of  them  is 


A GENTLE  SAVAGE 


55 


almost  everything  that  we  could  wish.  But  it  is 
matter  of  great  thankfulness  to  have  so  many  willing 
to  be  instructed,  and  coming  so  regularly  to  Church. 
The  Chief,  who  lives  in  the  village  near,  is  our  firm 
friend.  I regard  him  as  really  “one  of  Nature’s 
gentlemen.”  He  does  not  know  how  to  be  rude. 
He  talks  so  quietly  and  gently  to  everybody,  except 
when  any  one  has  been  breaking  the  M issi's  word , as 
he  styles  it,  and  then  I don’t  care  about  being  too 
near  him ! He  digs  his  great  toe  into  the  coral  and 
sends  it  flying  round  him  like  hail-stones,  while  he 
relieves  his  burdened  soul  by  pouring  forth  a perfect 
torrent  of  abuse  on  the  guilty  party. 

Our  Chief  is  an  intelligent-looking  old  man,  and 
often  regrets  to  Mr.  Paton  that  his  arms  are  too  weak 
to  let  him  help  in  building  or  anything  of  that  sort. 
But  it  is  his  great  delight  to  go  at  night  and  catch 
the  flying-fish,  which  he  brings  to  the  Cook-House 
early  in  the  morning,  giving  Kanathie  strict  orders 
to  have  them  prepared  for  our  breakfast.  His  eyes 
really  glisten  with  delight  as  he  sees  us  enjoy  them, 
for  he  makes  himself  our  unfailing  guest  every 
morning  and  evening.  He  is  not  strong,  and  he  so 
much  enjoys  a cup  of  tea  and  the  soft  bread.  He 
always  comes  in  before  the  Worship  on  Sabbath  and 
Wednesday,  takes  in  Mr.  Paton’s  Bible,  and  lays  it 
on  the  reading-desk.  Every  evening,  also,  he  collects 
the  people  for  Worship,  which  we  have  under  a large 
Banyan  tree,  in  the  Meeting  Ground  of  the  people, 
just  outside  our  fence.  This  Service,  above  all  others, 


5& 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 


I enjoy.  The  quiet  hour,  the  gorgeous  sunsets,  re- 
flecting everything  in  that  brilliant  yet  mellowed 
light,  and  the  distant  murmur  of  the  waves,  make 
the  whole  scene  most  enchanting ; so  much  so,  that, 
after  the  Worship,  we  often  sit  still  and  sing  all  our 
hymns  over  and  over  again  till  all  is  dark. 

The  Natives,  indeed,  are  extremely  fond  of  singing, 
and  of  music  of  any  kind.  I was  most  amused  to 
see  the  power  it  had  one  day  over  a poor  superstitious 
woman.  She  had  ventured  to  come  and  look  round 
the  place  with  her  little  boy ; but  nothing  would 
induce  her  to  come  near  the  door.  She  always  drew 
back,  saying  she  was  frightened  ; and,  when  I patted 
her  little  boy  on  the  shoulder,  she  drew  him  quickly 
away.  1 thought  to  try  what  effect  music  would 
have,  and,  slipping  into  the  parlour,  I began  to  play 
very  softly  the  Tyrolese  Evening  Hymn.  In  a moment 
or  two  she  came  gliding  in,  all  her  superstitious  fears 
forgotten,  with  a wistful  and  eager  expression  in  her 
large  black  eyes,  and  she  sat  down  by  my  side. 
When  I finished,  she  lifted  both  hands  imploringly, 
crying  in  her  own  language,  “ O Missi,  make  it  sing 
more ! ” 

I have  such  a fine  large  Class  of  women  and  girls  ; 
and  I never  expected  it  could  be  such  delightful  work 
to  teach  them — they  are  so  amiable  and  pleasant  and 
willing  to  learn.  There  are  about  fifty  of  them  ; and 
you  can  imagine  that  it  is  no  light  work  preparing 
seams  for  them  all,  especially  as  they  are  so  fond  of 
sewing.  But  I shall  soon  be  able  to  vary  the  oc- 


TEACHING  AND  NURSING 


57 


cupation,  by  teaching  them  reading,  for  Mr.  Paton 
has  finished  printing  our  first  Aniwan  book,  greatly 
to  the  delight  of  the  Natives  ! I hope  my  women 
will  learn  to  read,  and  will  like  it  as  they  do  the 
sewing  and  singing ; for,  at  present,  after  sitting  for 
two  hours  and  a half,  they  would  like  to  go  on  still 
longer.  Some  of  the  Mothers  bring  their  Babies,  and 
sew  and  nurse  alternately.  It  is  a fine  sight  to  see 
them  all,  some  of  the  old  ones  with  their  spectacles, 
sitting  in  rows  round  the  parlour  fioor,  the  spectacles 
having  given  them  “ new  eyes  ” and  a new  lease 
of  life. 

Mr.  Paton  had  a nice  School-Room  built,  at  the 
first,  but  we  have  seldom  got  into  it.  It  has  been 
very  much  used  as  a sort  of  Hospital  ; for,  when  any 
one  is  sick,  we  find  it  almost  impossible  to  get  the 
friends  to  come,  even  once  a day,  to  carry  to  them 
a little  nourishment ; and  it  is  often  that  they  want 
more  than  medicine,  as  food  is  very  scarce  on  this 
island.  Once  or  twice,  having  brought  a family  to 
live  here  in  which  there  was  an  invalid,  we  found  it 
so  much  easier  to  give  good  food — when  it  was  being 
prepared,  at  any  rate.  One  dear  little  girl,  who  had 
been  reduced  to  skin  and  bone  when  carried  here, 
went  away  from  us  fat  and  strong.  A case  like  this 
tends  much  to  promote  the  interests  of  our  work,  as 
every  little  incident  connected  with  us  is  noted  and 
talked  of  over  the  whole  island. 

Much  illness  might  be  prevented,  if  the  people 
would  but  cultivate  more.  They  don’t  plant  enough 


SETTLING  DOWN  ON  ANIWA 


58 


to  last  them  more  than  half  the  year,  and  the  other 
half  they  live  almost  entirely  on  cocoanuts.  Indeed, 
we  were  reduced  to  something  like  that  ourselves, 
for  two  or  three  weeks  before  the  Dayspring  came 
Irom  the  Colonies  this  year.  Though  we  had  stored 
a great  quantity  of  provisions,  we  had  an  unexpected 
number  of  Natives  to  feed,  entirely  with  our  European 
food,  and  the  Dayspring  was  two  months  longer  in 
returning  than  we  expected.  It  did  us  no  harm, 
however,  and,  had  it  not  been  for  the  anxiety  about 
my  little  ones,  I believe  I should  have  rather  enjoyed 
the  variety  than  otherwise.  How  it  used  to  go  to 
my  heart,  though,  when  dear  Bobby  would  ask,  every 
morning,  “whether  the  ‘ Day- ping’  (as  he  called  it) 
would  come  to-day,  and  bring  a ‘ bikkie’ ! ” 

The  Natives  were  very  frightened  that  I might  not 
be  able  to  nurse  the  Baby  properly  on  such  hard 
fare  ; for,  being  a Man  of  Anizua,  they  are  under  the 
impression  that  there  is  not  such  a fine  child  in  the 
whole  world — and,  of  course,  I quite  agree  with 
them  ! Their  love  of  children  is  a beautiful  feature 
of  their  character,  and  their  own  little  things  are  in 
many  cases  very  tenderly  nursed.  For  my  part,  I 
almost  think  them  really  prettier  than  white  children, 
with  their  brown  velvet  skins  and  large  brilliant  black 
eyes.  . . . 

Yours  ever  affectionately, 

M.  Whitecross  Baton. 


IV 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  ANIWANS 

(TO  THE  FAMILY  CIRCLE) 

Aniwa,  New  Hebrides, 
December  1868. 

My  dearest  Mother,  Sister,  and  all  Friends. 

. . . Quite  a number  of  events  have  happened  to  us 
this  year  ! 

Two  rooms  have  been  added  to  our  Island  Home: 
one,  a little  Study,  which  John  badly  needed,  and 
which  has  to  serve  also,  in  the  meanwhile,  as  a 
Drawing-Room,  when  we  have  visitors.  Our  Native 
servants  get  so  utterly  confused,  if  strangers  are 
sitting  in  the  dining-room,  while  they  are  laying  the 
table.  The  Aniwans  call  this  the  Great  House,  and 
are  perfectly  lost  when  they  get  inside— -four  rooms 
being  quite  too  much  for  their  comprehension  ! And, 
although  they  saw  them  being  built,  they  ask  in  each 
room,  with  bewildered  faces,  whether  they  are  North, 
South,  East,  or  West? 

We  sometimes  have  to  take  them  through  several 
times  in  a day  ; and  it  is  genuine  fun  to  watch  them 
— a perpetual  play,  without  the  wickedness  of  attend- 
ing theatres  ! Some  of  the  scenes  are  truly  dramatic. 

59 


6o 


GLIMPSES  OF  TIIE  ANIWANS 


One  fellow,  the  other  day,  got  so  fantastically  excited, 
when  I set  the  sewing-machine  a-working  before  him, 
that  he  performed  a war-dance  in  the  middle  of  the 
floor,  flung  his  arms  all  about,  and  called  lustily  for 
his  dead  father ! We  get  the  real  acting  here. 

A skeleton  timepiece,  under  a glass  shade,  comes  in 
for  a very  large  amount  of  interest.  The  path  of  the 
Sun  was  what  they  called  it,  after  we  explained  how 
the  hands  and  figures  indicated  its  course  in  the 
heavens.  I tried  yesterday  to  explain  that  it  was 
the  Earth,  and  not  the  Sun  at  all,  that  was  going 
round,  but  was  promptly  informed  that  I was  a liar  ! ! 
So  I won’t  trouble  them  any  more  with  my  Physical 
Geography  for  a bit.  They  are  just  about  as  unripe 
for  it  as  were  the  learned  Italians,  when  Galileo  pro- 
pounded his  theory,  a couple  of  centuries  ago.  They 
will  stand  and  watch  the  pendulum  go  for  ever  so 
long,  and  ask  all  sorts  of  questions,  exactly  like 
inquisitive  children,  whose  minds  are  beginning  to 
awake. 

Everything  about  this  house  is  wonderful  to  them  ; 
and  the  more  initiated  ones  give  themselves  very 
important  airs,  when  explaining  matters  to  the 
Atamtahu  (=  Man  Basil).  A helpful  young  fellow 
living  near  us  shows  off  one  of  the  smoothly  plastered 
walls  as  his  “ bit  of  work.”  He  had  taken  trowel  in 
hand,  when  the  Aneityumese  were  putting  on  the 
second  coat,  and  was  ordered  to  stop  and  “ not  dis- 
figure the  Missi’s  walls.”  He  appealed  to  John,  who 
declared  he  was  “ doing  wonderfully  ” (so  he  was !), 


HOME  IDEALS 


61 


and  let  the  poor  fellow  go  on  till  it  was  finished. 
But,  at  midnight,  when  all  was  quiet,  he  himself  took 
a lantern,  and  carefully  smoothed  over  again  the 
whole  surface  of  the  wall. 

It  will  be  so  nice  when  the  building  is  all  complete  ; 
and  I am  trying  my  very  best  to  make  it  the  prettiest 
and  most  inviting  Home  I know — asrefined,as  civilised, 
and  as  nearly  what  we  have  been  accustomed  to,  as 
our  limited  resources  will  permit.  We  must  not  let 
ourselves  “ down  ” because  we  are  among  Savages, 
but  rather  try  to  lift  them  up  to  our  Christian  level 
in  all  things.  One’s  Home  has  so  much  influence  on 
one’s  work,  and  on  life  and  character  ; and  it  is  due 
to  our  two  wee  Boys  to  make  it  a bright  one.  We 
should  do  our  life-work  all  the  better,  for  having 
a Home  in  harmony  with  our  tastes.  At  least,  it  is 
no  part  of  my  creed  to  believe  that  there  can  be  any 
religion  in  ugly  surroundings,  or  that  everything 
pleasant  is  sinful ; though  one  old  witch,  a regular 
Mrs.  Grundy,  did  tell  me,  before  leaving  Australia, 
that  Missionaries’  wives  were  expected  to  live  and 
dress  in  the  most  primitive  way,  and  to  set  an 
example  of  great  gravity  and  solemnity,  else  they 
would  get  to  be  talked  about.  The  old  Adam  in  me 
felt  like  choking  such  insolence  ; but  I controlled 
myself  to  retort,  that  in  my  Bible  there  was  no 
separate  code  of  rules  for  Missionaries’  wives,  any 
more  than  for  other  Christian  gentlewomen  ! 

It  is  an  increasing  wonder  to  me  that  any  one  can 
think  that  Christianity  has  anything  to  do  with  such 


62 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  ANIWANS 


fads  ; much  more,  that  any  one  can  be  blind  to  the 
fact  that  our  kind  Creator  has  given  us  such  wealth 
of  beauty  in  Nature.  He  might  have  restricted  Him- 
self and  us  to  useful  and  nutritious  cabbages  ; but, 
on  the  other  hand,  He  has  scattered  flowers  every- 
where. The  foliage  plants  here  are  exquisite,  and 
the  scenery  is  surpassingly  beautiful.  There  is  an 
indescribable  charm  and  softness,  too,  in  the  atmo- 
sphere, which  makes  one  feel,  especially  on  going 
out  in  the  early  morning,  that  to  be,  just  to  exist, 
is  a transcendent  joy. 

But  what  puzzles  us  excessively  is — to  understand 
how  these  poor  Natives  can  be  so  utterly  at  variance 
with  their  surroundings!  Nature  neither  raises  nor 
refines  them  one  iota — in  fact,  it  seems  to  take  no 
hold  of  them  whatever.  If  Nature  alone  could 
regenerate  us,  one  would  expect  to  find  Nymphs  and 
Fairies  inhabiting  these  “ gems  of  the  Pacific  ” ; 
instead,  the  most  degraded  Savage  in  war-paint 
presents  himself.  I once  heard  the  New  Hebrideans 
uniquely  described  by  their  oldest  Missionary,  who 
read  solemnly  the  terrible  first  chapter  of  the  Epistle 
to  the  Romans,  and  then  capped  the  Apostle  Paul 
by  adding:  “The  Heathen  here  have  all  that,  and 
they  have  Cannibalism  into  the  bargain  ! ” 

To  look,  however,  from  our  poor  Natives,  still 
Heathen,  and  gaze  on  the  almost  saintly  faces  of 
the  Christian  Aneityumese,  our  assistants,  keeps  us 
from  dreaming  of  despair.  There  you  have  a grander 
view  of  the  transforming  power  of  the  glorious  Gospel 


TRANSFIGURED  BY  CHRIST 


63 


of  Jesus  Christ,  than  I think  it  can  ever  be  possible 
for  any  one  to  feel  in  a Christian  land  ! And,  oh, 
how  those  poor  Savages  have  helped  us  to  realize  the 
meaning  of  the  Incarnation ! We  have  often  felt, 


CHRISTIAN  ANEITYUMESE  CHIEF. 


in  living  near  them,  that  we  might  thereby  under- 
stand, in  some  faint  degree,  what  it  must  have  been 
for  the  Lord  of  Glory  to  leave  His  home  on  high  and 
to  dwell  with  us.  The  difference  betwixt  the  best 


64 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  A AT  IVANS 


of  us  and  the  Savage  is  as  nothing,  compared  with 
such  transcendent  love  ; and  yet  the  bare  idea  of  living 
with  them  (not  merely  near  them)  is  too  awful.  We 
do,  of  course,  live  with  them,  in  a way  ; but  not  as 
really  one  of  themselves  ; for  we  can  always,  at  will, 
shut  to  the  door  of  our  own  Home,  and  retire  into  the 
Sanctuary  of  dear  family  life — an  infinite  recompense 
and  joy. 

In  all  this,  I am  referring  to  the  Aniwan  Savages 
on  the  whole ; for  we  have  some  dear  old  Pets 
amongst  them  already,  who  arc  most  lovable,  and 
form  a kind  of  outer  family  circle  of  Darkies  living 
on  the  premises.  After  nearly  despairing  of  getting 
any  of  the  young  folks  under  our  care,  a bevy  of  eight 
fine  bright  girls  unexpectedly  presented  themselves 
one  afternoon,  and  asked  where  they  were  to  sleep, 
as  they  had  come  to  stay ! Some  of  these  were  fine- 
looking,  marriageable  girls  (at  a marriageable  age 
here),  but  I thought  it  my  bounden  duty  to  prevent 
that  till  they  were  older,  and  their  constitutions  more 
confirmed.  But  they  were  full  of  life  and  animal 
spirits,  ready  for  any  kind  of  pranks  (and  pranks 
here  are  not  always  innocent),  and  years  seemed 
added  to  my  life  with  care  for  them.  I did  indeed 
wish  that  I were  a wise  woman  of,  say,  thirty,  instead 
of  an  inexperienced  girl  (that  burden  has  since  rolled 
off,  and  I am  willing  to  “ bide  my  time  ”),  and  I used 
to  lie  awake  half  the  night  planning  how  to  keep 
them  fully  and  pleasantly  employed. 

1 ransacked  Female  Missionary  literature,  but  found 


MARRIAGEABLE  GIRLS 


65 


little  help  there.  Numbers , as  to  converts  and 
classes,  were  brought  prominently  forward  ; but  they 
all  seemed  to  fight  shy  of  practical  details  for  their 
training,  and  that  was  exactly  what  I wanted.  At 
length,  dear  Mrs.  Inglis  of  Aneityum  came  to  the 
rescue  with  her  clear  practical  wisdom,  common  sense, 
and  long  experience.  She  and  Mr.  Inglis  paid  us  a 
flying  visit,  as  they  passed  in  the  Dayspring , and  I 
proudly  marshalled  my  flock,  arrayed  in  their  best 
pink  dresses,  to  alofa  her.  There  was  a bright  and 
hearty  shaking  of  hands,  with  words  of  encourage- 
ment which  I translated  ; but,  the  moment  they  were 
gone,  she  said  : “ Mrs.  Paton,  you  do  wrong  in  keeping 
those  big  Girls.  It  is  high  time  they  were  married, 
and  under  the  care  of  their  husbands.  You  have  too 
many,  and  the  responsibility  is  too  much  for  you. 
Don’t  you  feel  it  to  be  so  ? ” 

How  thankfully  I told  her  all  my  difficulties,  but 
added  that  I thought  I had  no  business  to  feel  this 
a burden,  when  other  Missionaries’  wives  seemed  to 
rejoice  in  having  large  numbers.  She  replied  : “ It 
would  be  a great  deal  better  for  the  thoroughness  of 
Mission  work,  in  its  ultimate  success,  if  they  had  not 
such  large  numbers.  They  can’t  possibly  do  justice 
to  them.  And  as  for  our  Natives  marrying  too 
young,  we  must  to  some  extent  take  things  as  they 
are,  and  of  two  evils  we  must  choose  the  lesser.  If 
those  Girls  were  in  Civilization,  and  hedged  round 
with  its  restraints,  or  even  on  one  of  our  Christian 
Islands  here,  it  would  be  different.  But  Natives  are 


66 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  ANIIVANS 


adepts  at  cheating,  even  while  you  think  you  arc 
watching  them  ! Oh,  my  dear,  I know  how  you  feel, 
and  did  exactly  the  same  thing  at  your  age  ; only  1 
carried  the  burden  a great  deal  longer,  for  want  of 
some  kindly  and  experienced  counsel.” 

Her  wise  advice  was  promptly  acted  upon.  The 
three  eldest  were  married  in  the  Church  to  the 
husbands  betrothed  to  them  from  infancy.  They 
live  near  us,  and  come  constantly  about  us  ; so  that 
we  can,  I hope,  still  influence  them  for  good. 

The  younger  Girls  are  more  easily  managed,  and 
we  are  only  too  thankful  to  get  them  young  What 
sharp  little  monkeys  they  are  ; too  observant  by  half ; 
and  I am  just  finding  out  how  very  careful  and 
guarded  I must  be,  as  absolutely  nothing  escapes 
them.  John  has  been  reading  me  such  long  lectures 
lately,  about  taking  sufficient  rest,  that  for  a quiet 
life  I wait  till  his  back  is  turned,  before  flying  round 
to  do  the  hundred  and  one  things  that  only  the 
Mistress  can,  and  then  get  on  the  sofa  to  rest  before 
he  re-appears.  I never  dreamed  that  this  little  bye- 
play  was  noticed,  till,  the  other  day,  a dear  wee 
Girlie  rushed  in  excitedly,  whispering,  Quick!  Quick , 
Missi ! On  to  the  sofa  ! The  Missi-tane  is  coming. 

Of  course,  everything  they  say  is  in  their  own 
language,  at  which  we  are  getting  a little  bit  more 
fluent,  under  great  difficulties.  No  Dictionary,  no 
Grammar,  to  refer  to  ; nothing  but  our  own  ears  to 
instruct  us ; and  the  Natives  do  gabble  at  such  a 
rate!  At  least  we  think  so;  but  they  say  it  is  we 


THE  SIGN  OF  THE  FUTURE 


67 


who  talk  so  fast  that  all  our  speech  runs  into  “ one 
long  word.” 

For  a very  long  time,  we  were  puzzled  to  find  the 
sign  of  the  future  tense,  and  were  much  at  a loss  in 
translation  work,  as  you  can  imagine.  We  often 
heard  the  Natives  say  Ka,  and  asked  what  it  meant  ; 
but  they  declared  there  was  no  such  word  ; and  it 
did  not  occur  to  us  that  it  might  be  a prefix.  At 
last,  one  day,  I was  doing  something  in  the  Dining 
Room  with  my  Baby  in  my  arms,  when  his  nurse 
came  forward,  saying,  Avail  Ka-takoia , Missi.  She 
spoke  very  distinctly,  and  1 saw  that  Ka  meant 
“ will.”  I put  my  Baby  in  her  arms,  and  flew  out  by 
the  back,  the  shortest  cut  to  the  Church,  where  John 
and  some  of  the  Natives  were  working.  I met  him, 
on  the  way,  rushing  home,  hammer  in  hand,  to  make 
known  his  discovery,  and  we  both  shouted  to  each 
other  in  the  same  breath,  “ Ka  is  the  sign  of  the 
Future  ! ” We  laughed  so  heartily,  that  the  joke  had 
to  be  explained,  as  well  as  we  could,  to  the  wondering 
byestanders ; and  they  were  amused  and  deeply 
interested. 

The  study  of  the  language  began  to  be  quite 
fascinating,  after  we  knew  enough  to  ask  questions  ; 
but  I shall  never  forget  the  half-comical  agony  1 
endured,  when  I first  wanted  to  give  some  Natives  a 
regular  scolding, — and  not  a word  of  the  language 
would  come  to  my  relief!  Talk  of  repression  of 
pent-up  feelings  ; wait  -till  you  have  an  experience 
like  that. 


68 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  ANIIVANS 


We  did  not  go  to  the  Mission  Synod  this  year,  as 
John  thought  things  here  far  too  encouraging  to  be 
left  even  for  a little ; but  I had  a delightful  trip 
(barring  the  sea-sickness)  to  Port-de-France,  with 
our  dear  friends  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sim,  who  had  come 
down  in  the  Day  spring  for  a short  visit  to  the  Islands. 
They  could  only  stay  one  night  with  us,  and  it  was 
so  delightful  to  have  them,  that  we  sat  up  the  whole 
of  it  talking!  It  was  thought  too  good  an  oppor- 
tunity to  be  missed,  for  consulting  the  French  Doctor 
about  little  Fred’s  arm  ; so  I was  off  with  them,  next 
morning,  after  a busy  packing  up  in  the  small  hours, 
and  arranging  things  for  John’s  comfort  in  my 
absence. 

This  little  peep  into  Civilization  again  was  simply 
delicious — a lovely  drive  into  the  beautiful  surround- 
ing country,  well  named  New  Caledonia,  being  more 
like  Scotland  than  anything  I have  ever  seen  (the 
British  were  noodles  not  to  take  possession),  and  then 
back  to  a sumptuous  dinner,  which  Mr.  Sim  had 
ordered  at  the  Hotel.  Captain  Fraser  and  Mr. 
Robertson  were  with  us,  and  I think  a happier  party 
never  sat  at  a table. 

Next  day,  we  were  shopping  at  an  English  Store, 
when  I suddenly  missed  Freddie  and  his  nurse.  On 
going  outside,  I found  Mistress  Litsi  giving  character- 
istic expression  to  her  first  impressions  of  Civilization, 
to  the  intense  amusement  of  some  French  Officers 
on  the  opposite  pavement.  A large  cartload  of  pigs 
had  just  passed,  and  Litsi  was  letting  off  a string  of 


PEEP  INTO  CIVILIZATION  fry 

ejaculations,  flipping  her  fingers  in  the  air,  and 
hopping  from  one  foot  to  the  other.  Fred  was 
nowhere  to  be  seen  ; and,  after  rushing  up  and  down, 
I found  him  in  a Store  whirling  things  from  the 
counter,  unceremoniously,  and  as  fast  as  a child’s 
mischievous  fingers  could ! The  shopman  was  hast- 
ing to  the  rescue ; and  I had  to  apologise  and 
explain,  in  the  best  French  I could  muster,  probably 
not  less  broken  than  some  of  the  things  now  scattered 
on  the  floor.  . . . 

Your  loving  daughter  and  sister, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 


V 


EARLY  MISSION  DAYS 
(TO  THE  REV.  DR.  MACDONALD,  SOUTH  MELBOURNE) 

My  DEAR  Sir, — -How  much  I enjoyed  your  kind 
letter,  which  came  by  the  Day  spring  last  month  ! I 
was  delighted,  indeed,  to  hear  that  your  Parish  now 
extends  to  the  New  Hebrides, — rather  a scattered 
one  certainly ; nevertheless  you  arc  bound  to  look 
after  your  flock,  and  we  shall  soon  be  expecting  a 
bast  oral  visit. 

In  the  meantime,  I shall  try  to  answer  your  letter 
as  fully  as  time  permits.  We  were  so  delighted 
to  hear  of  all  the  Victorians  are  again  doing  for 
the  Dayspring.  The  Copelands  and  we  are  almost 
entirely  dependent  on  the  Day  spring  for  communica- 
tion with  the  civilized  world,  as  it  is  but  rare  that 
Trading  Vessels  call  here,  there  being  no  proper 
anchorage  cither  at  Fotuna  or  Aniwa. 

We  indeed  rejoiced,  for  we  had  a little  taste  of 
starvation  last  summer  ; not  much,  but  just  enough 
to  give  variety  to  our  quiet  life  ! The  poor  Natives 
suffered  more  severely,  for  they  do  not  plant  enough 
to  last  them  half  the  year ; but  they  take  it  very 

jo 


GOD  DISPOSES 


71 


coolly,  subsisting  on  cocoanuts  or  anything  else  that 
comes  their  way.  Indeed  they  seemed  far  more 
concerned  about  us,  than  about  themselves.  Some 
of  the  old  people  and  invalids,  whom  we  had  been 
supplying,  absolutely  refused  to  take  any  more  bread 
to  their  tea,  when  they  found  that  our  flour  was 
getting  done,  declaring  that  they  could  eat  roots  and 
leaves  like  our  nannie  nannies  (=  goats),  but  that 
we  could  not.  They  will,  I think,  be  better  off  in 
future,  for  they  have  plenty  of  good  ground  lying 
waste,  which  Mr.  Paton  is  urging  them  to  cultivate. 

...  You  were,  I daresay,  surprised  when  you 
heard  that  we  had  been  sent  to  Aniwa  instead  of 
Tanna.  It  was  a blow  which  Mr.  Paton  has  hardly 
got  over  yet ; but  all  the  Brethren  were  decidedly 
opposed  to  us  going  there  alone,  and  we  feel  now 
that  we  have  been  divinely  led  hither.  Mr.  Inglis, 
in  his  last  kind  letter,  said  to  Mr.  Paton  that  he 
believed  he  was  doing  “ more  real  work  for  Tanna,” 
by  bringing  the  Aniwans  to  a knowledge  of  the  truth 
and  thus  fitting  them  for  by-and-bye  spreading  the 
Gospel  among  the  Tannese,  than  if  he  were  now 
labouring  alone  among  that  dense  mass  of  people. 
We  are  encouraged,  therefore,  to  hope  that  there 
may  be  many  “ ambassadors  for  Christ  ” from  this 
little  island,  for  the  Aniwans  are  a superior  people, 
and  the  work  has  made  steady  and  rapid  progress  of 
late.  I don’t  mean  that  half  the  people  are  converted 
— very  far  from  that ! There  is  a great  deal  to  be 
done  before  the  soil  is  prepared  even  to  receive  the 


72 


EARLY  MISSION  DAYS 


seed  ; they  cling  so  to  their  old  prejudices  and  super- 
stitions. I believe,  to  many  of  them,  it  is  like  taking 
a great  leap  into  the  dark  to  risk  the  anger  of  their 
gods  by  coming  to  the  Worship.  For  what  proof 
have  they,  at  first,  that  we  are  leading  them  into  the 
right  way?  True,  they  see  we  wish  to  be  kind;  but 
the  idea  of  any  one  coming  among  them  simply  for 
their  good  is  a doctrine  they  cannot  understand. 

We  are  very  thankful  to  have  so  many  regularly  at 
Church  ; and  Mr.  Paton  possessed  a great  advantage 
in  being  able  to  address  them  from  the  first  in  Tannesc, 
which  some  of  them  speak  freely  ; hence  the  double 
hope  of  training  them  as  helpers  for  Tanna.  You 
would  be  surprised  to  see  with  what  propriety  the 
Services  are  conducted.  The  Native  Teachers,  two 
devoted  men  from  Aneityum  who  have  been  here  for 
years,  try  to  give  short  speeches.  Then  Mr.  Paton 
usually  invites  one  or  other  of  the  more  enlightened 
of  the  Aniwans  to  speak,  which  he  does  by  invariably 
pitching  into  his  brethren  in  the  most  energetic  terms, 
comparing  them  to  pigs,  dogs,  serpents,  etc. — the 
speaker  not  generally  including  himself — and  asking 
how  long  they  mean  to  continue  their  “ black-hearted 
conduct  ” ! 

They  are  never  at  a loss  for  a text,  and  for  a long 
time  after  we  came,  it  sounded  to  me  something  like 
Missi  Paton  and  Teapots.  I supposed  it  to  be,  “ Missi 
Paton  versus  Teapots  ” ; but  by-and-bye  I discovered 
that  it  was  not  Teapots,  but  Tiapolo  (=  Devil), 
against  whom  they  stormed.  Lately  they  have  been 


SAVAGE  WIT 


73 


choosing  more  sacred  subjects,  generally  a repetition 
of  what  they  have  heard  from  Mr.  Paton  before,  or 
been  helping  him  to  translate  during  the  week.  Last 
Sabbath,  we  were  much  struck  with  the  gentle  per- 
suasive tones  of  the  old  Chief  who  was  addressing 
them.  Mr.  Paton  noted  down  two  words  he  did  not 
remember  having  heard  before,  and  asked  for  the 
translation  after  Worship.  The  man  took  him  by  the 
hand  and  said  in  Tannese,  Missi,  I was  only  telling 
them  what  you  have  been  teaching  us  all  this  time, 
about  Jesus  touring  out  His  blood  to  wash  away  all 
our  sins  ! 

Taia,  and  Namakei  the  Chief,  two  of  our  firmest 
friends,  give  very  telling  speeches  sometimes.  The 
former  is  a tall  and  powerful  fellow,  quite  a notoriety 
on  account  of  his  loquacious  powers.  He  has  a great 
deal  of  ready  wit  too  ; and,  though  he  does  little  else 
but  talk,  it  is  wonderful  what  influence  he  exerts. 
Some  time  ago,  he  prevented  a violent  quarrel  ending 
in  probable  bloodshed.  The  Party  who  thought 
themselves  insulted  ran  home,  seized  their  arms,  and 
were  rushing  past  Taia’s  house,  where  he  was  lying 
outside,  basking  in  the  sun  and  enjoying  his  pipe. 
He  saw  something  was  wrong,  for  they  don’t  continue 
the  habit  of  carrying  their  arms  constantly  now, 
and  he  called  out  to  them  (of  course  in  their  own 
language),  Stop  ! stop  ! let  me  see  what  you  are  carry- 
ing. Is  it  the  book  that  Missi  has  been  busy  making? 
His  sly  hit  set  them  all  a-laughing,  and  they  turned 
into  his  house  ; there  he  had  a long  and  serious  talk 


74 


EARLY  MISSION  DAYS 


with  them,  and  got  them  to  give  up  the  idea  of 
fighting,  at  least  for  that  day.  The  next  being 
Sabbath,  he  came  to  Mr.  Paton  before  the  Service 
to  ask  him  to  let  him  speak  ; and,  having  both  the 
offending  Parties  present,  he  did  give  it  them,  finishing 
up  by  reminding  them  how  difficult  it  had  been  to 
get  a Missionary,  and  how  he,  Taia,  had  gone  to 
Aneityum  to  plead  for  more  Native  Teachers  after 
they  had  murdered  Nemeyan  and  tried  to  kill  Navalak, 
and  how  he  had  always  been  careful  to  give  them 
food  to  do  the  work  of  Jehovah  ! In  that  part  of 
the  speech  referring  to  his  own  conduct,  there  were 
a few  embellishments  which  in  strict  regard  to  truth 
might  have  been  omitted,  but  his  advice  seemed  to 
do  good,  for  we  heard  no  more  of  that  quarrel. 

Taia,  however,  does  not  always  do  as  he  professes  ; 
and  Mr.  Paton  sometimes  feels  it  incumbent  on  him 
to  call  Taia  to  account  ; but  Taia’s  equanimity  is 
never  in  the  least  ruffled.  He  sits  listening  with  his 
chin  resting  upon  his  knees,  looking  up  now  and 
again  with  a bland  smile  and  saying,  Ah,  very  good 
talk  that,  Missi  ! Very  good  talk  that! 

Namakei,  the  Chief  who  lives  close  beside  us,  is 
a very  different  character— a dear  old  man,  one  of 
Nature’s  gentlemen,  who  could  not  do  an  unkind 
thing  to  any  one  ; and  yet  his  influence  is  felt  more 
than  that  of  any  one  else  on  the  island,  for  every  one 
seems  to  respect  the  dignified  and  pleasant  old  man, 
who  makes  it  his  special  business  to  attend  to  Missi, 
and  see  as  far  as  he  can  that  his  wishes  are  carried 


CHIEF  AND  TEACHERS 


75 


out.  He  often  complained,  when  the  house  was 
being  built,  that  his  arms  were  too  weak  to  let  him 


y 


THE  CHIEF  AND  TEACHERS  OF  ANIWA. 


(. Photographed  by  Dr.  Gunn.') 

help  ; but  he  did  what  he  could,  by  being  kind  to  our 
Aneityumese  servants  and  the  men  we  had  helping 
us  to  build,  and  providing  them  often  with  Native 


76 


EARLY  MISSION  DAYS 


food.  He  is  our  guest  morning  and  evening  ; and  it 
is  a great  pleasure  to  see  the  old  man  sipping  a cup 
of  tea  with  such  evident  relish.  Namakei  never  fails, 
when  well,  to  take  Mr.  Paton’s  Bible  and  lay  it  on 
the  desk  every  Sabbath  and  Wednesday  before  the  Ser- 
vice ; and  to  get  the  people  in  the  Village  assembled 
for  the  Worship,  which  we  have  every  evening  under 
a large  Banyan  tree  in  the  Imrai,  the  great  place  of 
general  rendezvous,  which  is  close  behind  our  house.* 

I particularly  enjoy  this  Evening  Service,  when 
all  Nature  is  at  rest  and  looks  exquisitely  beautiful, 
everything  reflecting  the  gorgeous  sunsets,  and  nothing 
heard  but  the  soft  rustle  of  the  leaves  and  what 
Longfellow  calls  ‘ the  symphony  of  Ocean.’  I think 
the  Natives  too  are  inspired  with  it,  for  none  of  us 
seem  inclined  to  move  off  after  Worship,  and  often, 
but  especially  on  Sabbath  evenings,  we  sit  still  and 
sing  over  all  our  hymns.  They  never  tire  of  this, 
being  all  of  them  intensely  fond  of  music. 

I could  not  but  admire  the  power  that  music  had 
over  a very  superstitious  woman  who  came  one  day 
to  have  a look  round  our  premises.  No  amount  of 
persuasion  could  induce  her  to  come  inside.  I was 
anxious  that  she  should,  for  I thought  I might  get 
her  coaxed  to  come  to  my  Sewing  Class  ; but  she 
looked  towards  the  door  with  a kind  of  horror,  saying 
she  was  weak  with  fear ; and,  when  Mr.  Paton 


* See  preceding  Letter  for  other  aspects  of  this  and  the  fol- 
lowing scenes. — Editor. 


MAKE  HIM  BORIS  SING ” 


77 


patted  her  little  boy  on  the  shoulder,  she  took  fast 
hold  of  him  and  drew  him  away.  I bethought  me 
to  try  what  effect  music  would  have.  I went  in  and 
played  something  over  softly.  I had  only  played  a 
few  notes,  when  she  came  gliding  in,  all  her  super- 
stitious fears  forgotten,  gazing  with  an  intense  and 
eager  expression  in  her  large  black  eyes,  and  sat 
down  at  my  side.  When  I stopped,  she  held  up  her 
hands  in  an  imploring  manner  and  begged  for  more. 

I was  heartily  amused  the  first  time  I was  called 
upon  to  perform  on  Aniwa ! We  had  just  unpacked 
the  harmonium,  one  day,  about  a fortnight  after  our 
arrival.  The  news  must  have  spread  like  wildfire  ; 
for,  towards  evening,  about  forty  or  fifty  people  came 
marching  towards  the  Church  (the  house  where  we 
stayed  till  our  new  Home  was  built),  the  foremost  shout- 
ing in  broken  English,  Missi  make  him  bokis  {—box) 
sing  ! Plenty  man  come  hear  you  make  him  bokis  sing  ! 

I must  not  omit  to  tell  you  about  my  peculiar 
charge,  and  a very  pleasant  one  it  is  ; I mean  my  own 
Sewing  Class.  Nearly  fifty  women  and  girls  attend 
pretty  regularly  every  morning,  except  Wednesday 
and  Saturday  ; and  we  spend  about  two  hours  (often 
more)  together  sewing  and  singing.  They  are  very 
tractable,  and  willing  to  learn,  having  taken  a great 
fancy  for  sewing.  I never  dreamt  it  would  be  really 
such  delightful  work  teaching  them,  but  my  heart 
was  drawn  to  them  from  the  first,  and  I shall  always 
feel  grateful  to  them  for  the  kindly  way  they  behaved 
to  me,  when  I landed  amongst  them,  timid,  and  rather 


78 


EARLY  MISSION  DAYS 


frightened  at  feeling  myself  the  only  white  woman 
on  these  lonely  shores  ! 

Mr.  Paton  took  the  matter  much  more  coolly, 
seeming  to  take  for  granted  that  they  were  all  his 
“ dear  friends  ” — though  most  of  the  men,  really  fine 
fellows  we  have  since  found  them,  thought  it  advis- 
able to  receive  us  with  a good  deal  of  impudence, 
trying  how  far  we  could  be  imposed  upon  ! Plenty 
of  them  talk  a little  English  ; and  really  it  was  almost 
laughable,  to  hear  them  telling  the  most  monstrous 
lies  with  such  a long  innocent  face  that  one  would 
suppose  they  believed  them  themselves,  and  then 
gravely  adding,  That  no  gammon  ! 

How  thankful  I felt  for  the  friendly  protection  ot 
the  Aneityumese,  during  those  first  few  weeks  of 
uncertainty  and  fear ! Mr.  Paton  took  care  always 
to  leave  two  or  three  of  them  with  me  while  he  was 
away  building.  Mrs.  Inglis,  too,  provided  me  with 
excellent  servants ; otherwise,  I would  not  have  been 
able  to  commence  teaching  so  soon,  for  a few  women 
came  two  or  three  weeks  after  we  landed.  Their 
attendance,  however,  was  very  irregular,  and  for 
months  no  more  than  three  or  four  would  come  at 
a time.  I was  getting  almost  disheartened,  when  one 
day  the  wife  of  our  oldest  Chief  came  to  look  at  the 
house,  and  Mr.  Paton  whispered  to  me  that  if  I could 
get  her  sympathies  enlisted  others  would  be  sure  to 
follow.  It  turned  out  to  be  the  case  ; for,  though 
she  laughed  heartily  at  a half-blind  old  woman  like 
her  learning  anything,  she  changed  her  mind  on  Mr. 


THE  GIFT  OF  TONGUES 


79 


Paton  fitting  her  with  glass  eyes , and  she  has  since 
come  regularly  every  morning.  From  that  time,  I 
had  fresh  scholars  almost  every  day,  till  now  about 
forty-eight  attend. 

I feel  the  sewing,  however,  to  be  only  a stepping- 
stone  to  something  far  more  important.  It  brings 
me  into  contact  with  them,  so  as  to  learn  their 
language.  I so  long  to  be  able  to  talk  freely  to 
them ; but  it  is  slow  work  with  me ! How  the 
Apostles  must  have  appreciated  the  gift  of  tongues 
on  the  day  of  Pentecost ! 1 wonder  if  it  was  accorded 
to  their  Wives  as  well ! It  is  so  provoking,  when 
you  think  you  have  mastered  enough  to  venture  on 
a little  conversation  with  them,  to  see  them  looking 
at  each  other  wonderingly.  Some  time  ago,  in  talking 
to  a girl,  I plunged  a little  deeper  than  usual,  thinking 
to  astonish  her  with  my  wisdom,  but  she  looked 
up  innocently  and  told  me  she  did  not  savvy  talk 
Biritania ! I must  have  made  awful  blunders,  at 
first.  But  some  of  the  women  can  talk  Tannese, 
as  well  as  the  men  ; and  I got  Mr.  Paton’s  help  in  any 
great  difficulty — though  he  did  not  at  all  times  enjoy 
the  interruption,  especially  if  the  point  in  question 
turned  out  to  be  only  about  a needle  and  a thread, 
while  he  had  been  called  away  when  setting  up  the 
type  for  our  first  An i wan  book  ! 

The  book  is  almost  ready,  and  would  have  been 
long  ago,  but  for  the  horrid  old  press  which  Mr. 
Paton  got  the  loan  of  being  completely  out  of  repair. 
He  has  got  it  coopered  up  so  as  to  do,  however,  and 


So 


EARLY  MISSION  DAYS 


all  are  eagerly  longing  for  the  book — myself  among 
the  rest,  for  I shall  begin  to  vary  the  occupation  with 
my  scholars  by  teaching  them  to  read  ; partly  for 
my  own  benefit,  as  well  as  theirs,  as  I could  not  long 
continue  this  work  of  sitting  up  half  the  night  to 
prepare  so  many  seams. 

One  of  the  women,  Kamani,  who  looked  forward  to 
getting  a book,  has  been  suddenly  removed,  and  I 
have  missed  her  sadly.  She  was  such  a kind  and 
affectionate  creature.  She  always  sat  before  my  seat 
on  Sabbath,  and  was  the  first  to  shake  hands.  I 
shall  never  forget  that  night  she  died.  When  I went 
to  see  her  after  the  Worship,  she  was  lying  on  a mat 
just  outside  their  house  for  air,  and  a little  flickering 
fire  lit  up  the  sorrowful  faces  of  the  dark  group 
around  her.  The  breeze  was  low,  and  there  was 
nothing  to  break  the  solemn  stillness,  but  the  heavy 
breathing  of  the  dying  woman,  and  the  sobs  of  her 
little  girl.  We  sang  softly  her  favourite  hymn,  one  of 
the  first  Mr.  Paton  translated,  but  with  difficulty  got 
through  it,  for  there  was  not  a steady  voice  that  night 
--she  was  so  much  beloved.  Mr.  Paton  offered  prayer. 
I never  felt  any  death  so  much  in  all  my  previous  life. 

We  would  have  liked  more  evidence  that  she  was 
saved.  Mr.  Paton  had  been  very  often  talking  with 
her  ; and  when  he  asked  her  if  she  loved  the  Saviour 
she  answered  in  the  affirmative.  But  we  must  not 
build  too  much  on  that,  for  almost  every  one  on 
Aniwa  would  give  the  same  reply — most  of  them 
being  under  an  impression  that  they  are  very  good 


WAILING  FOR  KAMANI  81 

Christians  indeed  ! I could  only  feel  that  it  was  a 
terrible  warning  to  be  more  diligent  in  the  future. 
When  I felt  I must  go  to  my  little  ones,  and  took  her 
hand  before  parting,  they  told  her  who  it  was,  and 
she  pressed  it  again  and  again,  and  with  a dying 
effort  brought  her  other  hand  round  to  close  upon 
mine.  I could  not  have  believed  her  capable  of  such 
deep  affection  ; for  I never  did  anything  for  her,  that 
I remember  of,  except  ministering  a little  to  her 
bodily  wants  when  she  was  ill. 

An  hour  or  so  after  we  came  home,  we  knew  that 
her  spirit  had  passed  away  by  hearing  the  Wailing 
begin.  That  expression  of  grief  is,  I think,  more  real 
than  affected.  I saw  more  of  it  next  day  than  ever 
before,  as  I went  to  see  Kamani  buried,  at  the  urgent 
request  of  her  husband.  All  her  friends  were  there  ; 
and,  though  they  might  have  made  a little  less  noise, 
it  seemed  to  be  for  the  most  part  sincere.  They 
evidently  considered  it  a duty  too,  and  spurred  each 
other  on  ; for  if  there  was  like  to  be  a calm,  a dismal 
howl  was  sure  to  be  heard  from  some  far-away  corner, 
which  would  set  them  all  on  with  renewed  vigour. 

Before  closing  this  long  epistle,  I want  to  tell  you 
about  our  first  Christian  marriage  here,  especially  as 
the  bride  was  decked  out  from  your  Emerald  Hill 
box,  last  sent — at  least  partly  so.  It  was  a deeply 
interesting  occasion.  Kahi,  the  bride,  was  one  of  my 
scholars,  a pretty  young  widow  of  about  seventeen  ; 
and  Ropu,  her  lover,  was  such  a nice  fellow  too,  a 
great  favourite  of  Mr.  Baton’s.  They  seemed  really 

6 


82 


EARLY  MISSION  DAYS 


attached  ; but  Kahi’s  father-in-law  demurred  about 
giving  her  away,  as  he  considered  her  still  his 
property,  having  given  a high  price  (present  ?)  for 
her,  when  he  bought  her  for  his  deceased  son.  One 
morning,  however,  Ropu  appeared  with  such  a 
number  of  fat  pigs,  that  they  quite  took  the  old 
man’s  heart  by  storm,  and  he  declared  that  he  might 
have  her  that  day,  if  the  Missi  thought  it  was  right. 
The  Missi  did  not  object,  but  advised  them  to  get 
married  in  Church  ; and  I determined  to  give  Kahi 
a nice  present,  in  order  to  tempt  her  young  com- 
panions to  follow  her  Christian  example — not  a very 
high  motive,  to  be  sure,  but  if  the  prospect  of  a good 
present  will  induce  them  to  alter  their  habits  in 
regard  to  marriage,  I have  not  the  slightest  objection 
that  it  should  be  so.  It’s  about  the  highest  motive 
some  of  them  can  yet  appreciate  ; and  there  is  no 
vital  principle,  after  all,  at  stake  in  the  mere  form. 

We  made  the  event  as  public  as  the  time  would 
permit,  and  there  was  quite  a little  gathering  to 
witness  the  ceremony.  Poor  Kahi  was  brought  to 
me  in  tears ; but  when  we  put  on  her  nice  skirt  and 
jacket,  and  she  caught  sight  of  the  pretty  hat,  which 
happened  to  be  trimmed  with  orange  blossom,  she 
seemed  to  think  she  had  indulged  long  enough  in 
sentiment,  and  dried  her  tears  quite  briskly,  looking 
out  from  under  her  long  eyelashes  from  side  to  side 
with  great  admiration  ; and  when,  at  last,  I put  a 
flaring  red  handkerchief  into  her  hand,  she  fairly 
laughed  aloud ! There  was  a little  trouble  with  them 


THE  MARRIAGE  OF  KAMI 


83 


in  Church,  as  they  would  not  come  near  enough  to 
join  hands  till  they  were  pushed  ; and  then  the  poor 
girl  got  her  marriage  vows  repeated  to  her  on  the 
deafest  side  of  her  head  ; for,  being  too  bashful,  or 
something  of  the  sort,  to  give  the  response,  it  seemed 
to  be  the  public  opinion  that  Mr.  Paton  was  letting 
her  off  too  easily  ; and  the  men,  taking  up  the 
question,  thundered  it  in  such  a manner  as  to  elicit 
a pretty  quick  reply  ! 

I suppose  Mr.  Paton  will  be  telling  you  all  about 
the  building  of  the  Church,  and  how  pretty  your 
pulpit  hangings  look  in  it.  Velvet  drapery  in  a 
Native  building  sounds  rather  incongruous ; but  I 
like  the  contrast  ; and  Mr.  Paton  thinks  his  platform 
desk  quite  a triumph  of  joinership.  Oh,  I earnestly 
hope  that  the  Saviour’s  presence  may  always  be  felt 
with  the  preaching  of  the  Word  ; and  that,  in  regard 
to  many,  it  may  be  said,  “ This  man  and  that  was 
born  (again)  there.” 

December  6th. 

Please  send  the  Dayspring  quickly  down,  this 
season  ; for  I have  found  this  morning,  to  my  horror, 
that  our  whole  stock  of  flour  has  gone  useless  ; and 
not  a bit  of  bread  shall  we  get,  till  the  vessel  returns  ! 
I suppose  we  are  indebted  to  the  climate  and  the 
weevil  together  for  this.  We  have  plenty  of  other 
food — so  no  danger  of  starving. 

Faithfully  yours, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 


VI 

THE  CHURCH  OF  GOD  ON  ANIWA 

(TO  A LADY  IN  AUSTRALIA) 

Aniwa,  New  Hebrides, 

November,  1869. 

My  DEAR  FRIEND, — So  far  as  our  work  is  con- 
cerned, this  last  year  has  been  one  of  the  happiest 
we  have  spent  on  Aniwa.  Certainly  it  has  been  the 
most  encouraging.  Formerly  we  were  cheered  by 
our  Natives  giving  up  one  after  another  of  their 
grosser  Heathen  customs,  and  a very  few  adopting 
civilized  habits,  such  as  wearing  clothing,  etc.  This 
year,  we  have  the  intense  joy  of  seeing  a little  band 
of  them  come  out  from  all  their  Heathen  superstitions, 
and  declare  themselves  for  Christ. 

. . . To  spend  such  a day  as  we  did  a few  Sab- 
baths ago,  when  our  little  CHURCH  OF  GOD  ON 
Aniwa  was  formally  constituted,  we  felt  to  be  worth 
more  than  all  the  sacrifices  connected  with  our  isolated 
life.  We  had  a very  good  attendance,  one  hundred 
and  eighty  being  present,  and  an  unusual  solemnity 
and  interest  pervaded  the  Church  throughout  the 
whole  Services.  The  Communicants,  twelve  in  num- 
ber, were  arranged  in  rows,  from  the  platform  to  my 

84 


THE  CHURCH  OF  ANIWA. 


THE  FIRST  TWELVE 


$>7 

seat,  so  that  they  occupied  the  space  in  the  centre  ; 
and,  as  they  stood  up  to  answer  the  Form  of  Questions 
Mr.  Paton  put  to  them  before  receiving  Baptism,  you 
could  scarcely  have  conceived  of  a more  intensely 
interesting  group.  Vasi,  our  eldest  member,  must, 
we  think,  be  near  to  ninety  ; but  aged  and  infirm  as 
he  is,  he  came  every  day  to  School  with  his  spectacles 
on,  and  is  one  of  Mr.  Paton’s  best  writers  as  well  as 
readers.  Our  old  Chief,  Namakei,  was  there,  with 
his  daughter  Litsi.  She  is  his  only  child  living,  and 
is  almost  as  great  a comfort  to  me  as  to  her  father. 
She  was  the  first  girl  who  came  to  live  with  us ; and, 
being  the  eldest  on  our  premises,  she  sets  a good 
example  to  the  others.  Her  devotion  to  Mr.  Paton 
almost  amounts  to  idolatry.  She  seems  as  if  she 
never  could  be  grateful  enough  to  him  for  being  the 
means  of  her  conversion.  But  the  one  I felt  most 
interest  in  was  Namakei’s  sister,  a very  gentle  and 
delicate-looking  woman.  I knew  what  it  had  cost 
her  to  profess  her  faith  in  Jesus,  and  how  her  husband 
and  son  were  even  then  jeering  and  laughing  at  her! 

If  I had  time,  I could  tell  you  something  interesting 
about  each  of  them  ; for,  of  course,  it  was  our  knowing 
all  their  little  histories  that  made  it  so  intensely  a 
gratifying  sight  to  us.  I could  remember  when  one 
began  to  wear  clothing,  when  another  cut  off  his  long 
hair,  and  when  one  whom  we  had  thought  a very 
hardened  character  came  one  day  with  the  last  of 
his  idols,  saying,  Now,  Miss/,  these  are  the  very  last. 
I have  no  more. 


38 


THE  CHURCH  OF  GOD  ON  ANIIVA 


It  was  a beautiful  sight  to  see  these  all  standing 
up  neatly  clothed,  in  the  midst  of  their  benighted 
brethren,  to  declare  themselves  on  the  Lord’s  side  ; 
and  more  than  we  could  witness  without  deep  emo- 
tion. Never  did  I feel  happier  in  any  society  on 
Earth,  than  when  partaking  of  our  Saviour’s  body  and 
blood  with  those  dark  Sisters  and  Brothers,  now 
united  with  me  in  Jesus.  It  was  a day  long  to  be 
remembered.  I trust  it  will  be  so  even  in  Eternity, 
with  thanksgiving.  Our  dear  friend  and  sister  Mis- 
sionary, Mrs.  McNair,  was  with  us,  paying  a long- 
promised  visit  ; and  I felt  so  glad  she  happened  to 
be  here  at  the  time,  for  she  says  she  never  witnessed 
a more  beautiful  and  affecting  spectacle.* 

We  have  every  reason  to  hope  that  the  true  work 
of  grace  is  begun  in  their  hearts.  Mr.  Baton  had 
much  satisfaction  in  them,  while  attending  his  Can- 
didates’ Class  ; and  their  own  earnest  inquiries  were 
what  delighted  him  most.  How  often  have  we  had 
cause  to  set  up  our  Ebenezer,  since  coming  to  this 
far-off  land  ; and  this  is  but  a small  beginning,  yet 
we  have  most  emphatically  reason  to  thank  the  Lord 
and  take  courage. 

Since  I wrote  last,  Bia,  my  clever  and  faithful 
Rarotongan  woman,  left  to  go  in  the  new  John 
Williams  to  her  own  land.  She  has  been  waiting 
this  opportunity  ever  since  her  husband  died  here 


* See  Autobiography  of  John  G.  Paton , p.  375  (Popular 
Edition). 


MISSION  GIRLS  AND  BOYS 


89 


about  a year  and  a half  ago,  and  I can’t  tell  you 
how  1 miss  her.  She  was  so  thoroughly  perfect  in 
everything  that  I never  saw  a white  woman  to  equal 
her.  When  she  left  I was  for  the  first  time  entirely 
dependent  on  our  Natives  for  help  ; but  my  Girls  had 
been  so  far  trained,  and  I got  Mr.  Paton  to  ask  a 
nice  Boy  to  come  and  be  my  cook.  He  agreed,  after 
hearing  that  he  would  not  be  obliged  to  marry  one  of 
the  Girls ! I don’t  know  what  had  put  that  into  his 
head  ; but  he  seemed  very  much  relieved,  when  Mr. 
Paton  told  him  that  he  did  not  come  here  to  “ make 
matches  ” — he  left  that  for  themselves  to  look  after  ! 

. . . Mungaw  was  so  disgusted  at  having  to  wear 
a kilt,  that  I did  not  dare  to  mention  about  cutting 
his  long  hair ; and  Mr.  Paton  does  not  wish  the 
Natives  to  be  forced  to  these  things ; for  he  always 
says  that,  when  their  hearts  are  changed,  they  will 
be  sure  to  give  up  these  things  of  their  own  accord. 
I know  that  this  is  very  true  ; but,  as  I don’t  see  that 
there  would  be  any  harm  in  having  the  short  hair 
first,  I coaxed  Mungaw  to  cut  his,  and  he  looks  very 
much  more  civilized. 

We  have  quite  a gathering  of  Boys  now  on  the 
premises  ; for  Mungaw  had  not  been  installed  into 
his  office  two  days,  before  a few  others  came,  and 
asked  quite  humbly  that  they  might  be  allowed  to 
do  something  for  the  Missi.  We  were  truly  amazed 
as  well  as  gratified  at  this  unexpected  proposal ; for 
the  Boys  here,  as  a rule,  are  the  idlest  and  most 
impudent  set  I ever  saw.  They  seem  to  be  the 


go 


THE  CHURCH  OF  GOD  ON  ANIIVA 


“ masters  ” too,  for  no  one  thinks  of  contradicting 
a boy.  Of  course,  Mr.  Paton  told  them  he  was  very 
glad  to  have  them  come,  as  he  wanted  to  teach  them 
a great  deal  they  ought  to  know.  They  are  really 
doing  tolerably  well  ; and  I feel  so  thankful  to  have 
a man-cook,  as  there  are  so  many  things  connected 
therewith  that  men  or  boys  require  to  do,  and  that 
they  will  not  do  to  help  a woman — for  instance, 
chopping  wood  and  blackleading  the  stove. 

Their  abominable  Heathen  notions  often  trouble 
us,  though  not  more  than  we  might  have  expected. 
For  the  last  two  days,  there  has  not  been  a boy  on 
the  premises.  They  all  bolted  yesterday  morning  at 
daylight,  on  account  of  something  about  the  Girls. 
I expect  to  see  them  all  skulking  about  again, 
to-morrow  or  next  day  ; for  they  like  best  to  show 
face  gradually,  after  absconding  in  that  way.  Mean- 
while, I can  hardly  regret  it,  as  it  has  shown  what  an 
interest  and  care  our  little  band  of  Church  Members 
have  over  us.  The  moment  those  of  them  who  live 
near  us  heard  of  it,  they  came  and  told  the  Girls  just 
to  go  on  with  their  regular  work  of  doing  out  the 
rooms,  etc.,  and  they  would  do  the  cooking ! So  three 
men  presided  over  the  porridge  pot,  while  two  old 
wives  infused  our  tea.  And  they  all  managed  their 
work  so  well,  that  I knew  nothing  of  our  absentees, 
till  I wanted  to  give  our  Cook  directions  about  the 
dinner.  Our  Church  Members  seem  to  think  it 
incumbent  on  them  to  come  between  us  and  any 
annoyance  that  may  occur ; and  if  love  and  kindness 


SOCIAL  LIFE 


91 


to  their  Missionary  is  to  be  a test  of  their  love  to 
Christ,  they  already  have  it  ! 

. . . What  a rich  year  this  has  been  for  our  Mission ! 
We  have  had  the  extreme  pleasure  of  welcoming  two 
new  Missionaries  ; and,  what  is  of  most  interest  to 
us  ladies,  their  Wives.  How  eagerly  we  look  forward 
to  any  additions  to  our  limited  circle,  and  how  many 
questions  we  ask  each  other  about  the  expected 
Sisters,  which  usually  cannot  be  answered  till  we  have 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  them  for  ourselves!  We  like 
Mrs.  Watt  and  Mrs.  Milne  so  much,  and  I hope  they 
may  find  our  society  pleasant. 

The  fact  is,  however,  we  have  to  like  each  other, 
for  we  can’t  choose  our  society  down  here  exactly. 
You  Ministers’  wives  in  the  Colonies  can  visit  with 
as  many  or  as  few  of  the  Sisterhood  as  you  choose  ; 
but  I can  tell  you,  we  should  feel  pretty  uncomfortable 
if  we  had  to  wait  on  board  the  Dayspring  for  a 
formal  invitation  to  “ dine,”  or  “ spend  the  evening,” 
when  we  have  the  opportunity  of  visiting  each  other. 
We  are  only  too  glad  to  get  off  in  the  first  boat, 
leave  the  mal-de-mer  behind  us,  and  get  a hearty 
welcome  from  the  Missionary  and  his  wife  on  shore  ; 
and  as  we  gather  round  the  well-furnished  table  (for 
the  very  best  in  the  house  is  produced  to  grace 
such  occasions),  what  a social,  merry,  delightful  enter- 
tainment it  is  ! We  are  all  so  thoroughly  delighted 
to  see  each  other,  and  have  each  so  much  to  say  and 
to  hear,  that  the  time  speeds  like  lightning  ; and  we 
fancy  we  have  hardly  been  seated  five  minutes,  when 


92 


THE  CHURCH  OF  GOD  O.V  ANUVA 


we  are  assured  it  is  time  to  go  on  board.  If  it  is 
a Harbour  Station  and  we  can  remain  all  night,  we 
find  that  a Mission  House  is  very  elastic,  and  that 
none  of  us  will  be  allowed  to  sleep  elsewhere. 

How  these  little  yearly  visits,  on  our  way  to  and 
from  the  Annual  Synod,  animate  and  cheer  us,  as 
well  as  our  pleasant  and  more  lengthened  stay  at  the 
Station  where  the  meeting  is  held ! And  we  all  come 
back  to  our  posts  with  new  life  and  vigour.  I never 
was,  I think,  so  benefited  by  anything  as  by  my 
short  visit  this  season  to  Aneityum.  Mr.  Paton  was 
delighted  to  see  me  so  much  fresher-looking,  when 
he  came  back  from  Santo,  and  I have  been  feeling 
stronger  ever  since. 

. . . Th & Dayspring  is  a great  blessing  to  us  all. 
There  is  little  fear  of  any  Missionary  now,  on  the 
most  savage  island,  being  ill-treated,  if  they  see  that 
he  is  well  looked  after.  Of  course,  I mean  “ humanly 
speaking  ” the  fear  is  nil ; and,  if  we  be  kept  in  safety 
and  our  work  in  the  end  begins  to  prosper,  that  dear 
little  Vessel  and  her  supporters  have  more  to  do  with 
it  all  than  might  by  some  be  imagined.  Two  of  our 
Natives,  one  of  them  the  wildest  character  on  Aniwa, 
were  engaged  by  Captain  Fraser  to  go  as  boat’s  crew, 
the  trip  before  last  ; and  they  came  back  in  ecstasies, 
declaring  there  never  was  such  a Captain  as  the  one 
on  board  the  Dayspring.  He  was  so  kind  and  good 
to  them  ; for  when  they  came  to  any  island  without 
a Missionary,  he  would  not  let  them  go  on  shore  for 
fear  of  being  killed,  and  that  would  have  damaged 


NATIVES  ON  THE  “ DAYSPRING 


93 


our  work  on  Aniwa.  Then  they  counted  on  their 
finger  ends,  with  great  glee,  the  things  they  had 
received  in  payment ; and  as  these  are  good  and 
useful  articles,  it  engenders  a love  for  such  things 
instead  of  the  paint  and  stuffs  they  get  from  the 
Traders,  while  their  huge  ambition  for  sailing  and 
sight-seeing  is  gratified. 

I trust  you  will  excuse  this  hurried  epistle.  My 
little  ones  are  continually  bothering  me  to  explain 
about  the  pictures,  which  I gave  them  in  the  hope 
of  keeping  them  amused  and  allowing  me  to  have  a 
little  quiet,  so  I find  it  hard  to  write  at  all.  . . . 

Ever  yours  affectionately, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 


VII 

FRAGMENTS: — DEATH  AND  THE  “DAYSPRING” 

(I.  TO  A LADY  IN  EDINBURGH) 

New  Hebrides,  South  Seas, 

Havannah  Harbour,  Fate, 

December  5 th,  1870. 

My  DEAR  Mrs.  H., — I cannot  express  to  you  how 
much  I valued  your  dear  kind  letter  ; and  what  a 
relief  it  was  in  the  bitter  grief  of  hearing  about  my  pre- 
cious sister  Elizabeth’s  death,  to  know  the  particulars 
of  her  latest  hours.  Rut  for  yours,  I should  have  been 
left  in  dreadful  suspense  ; for,  in  her  dear  husband’s 
last  letter,  there  was  no  particular  account  of  her 
fatal  illness,  as  he  wrote  in  the  full  belief  that  the 
letters  sent  to  Adelaide  had  already  reached  me, 
while  they  only  came  to  hand  as  we  came  on  board. 

Yours  came  the  day  after  Frank  Hume  was  born, 
along  with  her  husband’s  and  others  ; but  Mr.  Paton 
kept  the  sad  tidings  from  me  for  ten  weeks,  till  I was 
better  able  to  bear  the  awful  trial.  And  it  is  only, 
as  you  said  in  your  letter,  when  we  have  a hold 
of  Jesus’  hand  that  we  can  breast  the  billows  that 
surge  over  and  threaten  to  drown  us.  I had  to  lay 

94 


A SISTER'S  DEATH 


95 


down  the  letter,  again  and  again,  and  pray  for 
strength  to  read  on  to  the  end — you  brought  the 
closing  scenes  all  so  vividly  and  so  really  before  my 
mind.  May  God  bless  you  for  what  you  have  been 
to  her!  Fervently  have  I uttered  this  prayer,  when 
reading  your  letter,  in  very  bitterness  of  grief  at  the 
idea  of  her  having  died  so  far  away  from  us  all.  Rut 
I felt  so  glad,  also,  to  learn  that  you  and  our  darling 
Elizabeth  had  become  so  dear  to  each  other, — my 
ever  beloved  Sister  ! 

. . . Will  you  please  give  my  kind  love  to  B.,  as 
I shall  not  be  able  to  write  at  this  time  ? We  have 
had,  unexpectedly,  to  take  a voyage  at  the  end  of  this 
Season,  the  time  usually  set  apart  for  writing  our 
Annual  Letters,  and  making  up  our  orders  for  the 
Colonies.  For  our  little  Frank’s  sake,  we  have  asked 
Captain  Fraser  to  run  the  Dayspring  over  to  Lifu, 
that  we  may  consult  the  French  Doctors  there.  We 
have  come  round  the  whole  voyage,  however,  as  it 
was  thought  advisable  to  go  first  to  Santo,  on  account 
of  our  Missionary,  Mr.  Goodwill,  who,  we  heard,  was 
dangerously  ill  ; and  we  are  now,  on  our  way  back, 
locked  in  here  by  head  winds.  In  the  first  place, 
we  were  driven  in  by  a rough  gale  ; and  I have  such 
a horror  of  sea-sickness  that  I am  very  glad  ; though 
I grudge  the  time,  which  is  specially  precious  at  this 
season  ; and  it  is  not  much  writing  one  can  do  on 
board,  with  Natives  constantly  coming  and  going, 
and,  in  the  circumstances,  you  will  excuse  this 
disconnected  epistle. 


96 


DEATH  AND  THE  “ DAYSPRING 


. . . We  go  to  Lifu,  as  soon  as  the  wind  changes, 
where  we  fondly  hope  to  get  good  help  for  our  little 
one;  as  I really  would  not  like  to  have  to  take  him  to 
the  Colonies,  even  although  the  Dayspring  is  going 
to  Adelaide  this  year.  I feel  I could  not  stand  much 
more  parting,  and  would  much  rather  forego  the 
intense  joy  of  meeting  than  endure  another  farewell  ; 
and  Mr.  Paton  does  not  see  it  to  be  his  duty  to 
accompany  me,  and  leave  our  beloved  work  for  a 
season.  Then  I have  another  little  thought  in  the 
background,  and  that  is — that  they  might  take  my 
Bairns  from  me ! My  judgment  says,  the  sooner 
they  are  in  a civilized  country  the  better  ; but  I don’t 
think,  more  than  I can  help,  of  this  heart-rending 
trial — time  enough  when  I have  to  face  it  in  the 
swiftly  coming  days. 

. . . How  often  my  mind  reverts  to  that  happy 
time,  the  year  I spent  in  Edinburgh,  with  which  you 
all  are  in  memory  so  closely  associated  ! I think  it 
must  have  been  the  tenderness  of  your  nature  that 
mainly  revealed  itself  to  me  ; for  once  or  twice  I have 
indulged  in  a g/t  id  greet,*  when  looking  at  your  name 
and  that  of  your  dear  husband,  in  the  book  you  kindly 
gave  me.  The  tenderness,  however,  would  not  be 
worth  much  without  the  firmness  which  forms  its 
solid  background,  and  makes  the  other  stand  out  in 
beautiful  relief  on  the  pages  of  memory  and  love, 

. . . My  four  Bairns  are  all  thriving,  despite  those 


* Scotticc  for  weeping  heartily. — Ed. 


IN  THE  DARK  VALLEY 


97 


little  ailments,  and  I think  we  all  shall  be  much  bene- 
fited by  this  short  voyage.  Captain  Fraser  says  that 
I look  like  another  woman  already  ; for  I had  got  so 
weak  and  thin,  after  the  tidings  of  Elizabeth’s  death, 
that  my  husband  became  seriously  alarmed.  It 
seemed  as  if  I could  never  get  over  the  shock  ; and 
the  one  thought  always  stood  out  before  me,  like  a 
great  blackness,  whichever  way  I turned,  that  my 
precious  Elizabeth  was  gone ! I cannot  tell  you 
what  a Sister  she  has  been  to  me,  nor  how  I loved 
and  admired  her — she  was  so  noble  and  true  and 
unselfish.  If  ever  woman  was  sincerely  mourned,  she 
is  ; and  not  by  me  only,  but  by  many  hearts.  I feel 
as  if  death  would  not  be  so  terrible,  now  that  she  has 
gone  before  ; and  that  helps  me  to  understand  what 
happy  Christians  mean  by  not  being  afraid  to  follow 
Jesus  through  the  Dark  Valley.  Oh  that  I may  be 
prepared  for  the  call  of  my  God,  and,  meantime,  may 
reap  the  full  benefit,  that  this  sore  affliction  is  intended 
and  is  fitted  to  draw  forth,  within  my  soul  ! 

...  I ought  not  to  trouble  you  with  my  feelings, 
but  you  write  so  kindly,  and  you  were  so  dear  to  her, 
that  I could  go  on  telling  you  everything  ; still  I 
must  reluctantly  close,  as  this  is  among  the  first  of 
my  replies,  and  I have  many  letters  still  to  overtake. 

Believe  me, 

Ever  gratefully  and  affectionately  yours, 

M.  Whitecross  Baton. 


7 


9» 


DEATH  AND  THE  “ DAYSPRING 


(ll.  TO  THE  CHILDREN  OF  THE  11  DAYSPRING  ”) 

Aniwa,  New  Hebrides, 

July,  1 87 1. 

My  dear  little  Friends, — Grown  people,  as  well  as 
Children,  have  to  do  as  they  are  bid,  sometimes  ; and 
that  is  the  reason  why  1 am  writing  this  letter,  instead 
of  some  one  abler,  and  more  accustomed  to  the  task. 


THE  FIRST  “ DAYSPRING.” 


It  is  about  your  beautiful  Mission  Vessel,  called 
the  Dayspring , that  I am  to  say  something ; and 
I will  do  with  you,  as  our  friends  in  the  civilized 
world  do  with  us.  They  do  not  fill  the  Day  spring 
with  letters  of  wise  advice,  telling  us  how  diligent  we 
ought  to  be,  and  how  little  we  are  doing  compared 
with  what  we  might  do  ; else,  we  might  turn  round 


A LITTLE  SHIP 


99 


indignantly,  and  want  to  know  what  business  it  is 
of  theirs  to  preach  to  us , from  their  safe  and  com- 
fortable homes ! But  they  take  a far  more  effectual 
plan  to  make  us  feel  how  diligent  we  ought  to  be  ; 
for  the  little  Vessel  comes  to  us  every  year,  full  of 
precious  and  loving  messages  from  kind  friends  who 
do  all  they  can  to  help  us,  and  tell  us  how  much  they 
sympathize  with  us  and  pray  for  us  ; till  we  really 
feel  humbled,  and  begin  to  think,  What  have  we  been 
doing  to  deserve  all  this ; and  how  have  we  been 
attending  to  our  share  in  this  labour  of  love  ? 

Now,  if  I tell  you  how  really  grateful  all  the 
Missionaries  are  to  the  Children,  who  give  their  money 
so  willingly  to  keep  the  Dayspring  in  nice  order,  and 
how  the  little  Vessel  actually  helps  to  keep  the  Mis- 
sionaries alive,  as  well  as  those  so  dear  to  them, 
by  bringing  them  food  and  medicine  and  all  they 
require,  I am  sure  you  will  not  grudge  having  denied 
yourselves  many  little  gratifications  to  help  in  so 
important  a work. 

No  ship  in  the  world  has  been  more  highly  prized  or 
more  eagerly  longed  for  than  the  Dayspring ; and  we 
feel  very  much  like  Children  bounding  out  of  School, 
to  have  unrestrained  freedom  with  their  companions, 
when  it  arrives  and  we  meet  with  our  Missionary 
friends ; for,  then,  we  can  talk  in  our  own  language, 
saying  whatever  comes  uppermost,  without  fear  of 
being  misunderstood  or  of  setting  a bad  example— 
as  you  can  easily  understand,  we  are  in  the  habit  of 
acting  so  carefully  before  the  Natives,  who  might  so 


1O0 


DEATH  AND  THE  “DAYSPRING 


easily  take  wrong  meanings  out  of  what  we  say  or 
do.  The  visits  of  the  Mission  Vessel  are  bright  days 
in  our  lonely  existence,  which  wc  think  and  talk  about 
afterwards,  as  you  do  regarding  holiday  pleasures 
after  you  return  to  School. 

But,  if  the  Dayspring  has  been  prized  by  the 
Missionaries,  when  things  went  well  with  them,  oh 
how  their  hearts  have  gone  out  in  gratitude  to  God, 
when  the  little  white-winged  Messenger  of  Mercy 
has  been  seen  approaching  at  a time  of  sickness  or 
danger  ! I know  of  at  least  two  mothers,  in  this 
Mission,  who  have  gone  to  the  shores  of  their  lonely 
islands  day  after  day  with  aching  hearts,  and  eyes 
strained  to  catch  the  least  little  speck  of  hope  on  the 
horizon — for  their  Babies  were  lying  so  sick  that  they 
feared  they  might  die,  ere  the  Dayspring  came  to 
carry  them  away  to  see  the  Doctor. 

Further,  last  year,  when  the  Vessel  was  too  long  in 
leaving  Australia,  our  dear  Missionary,  Mr.  McNair, 
used  to  pace  the  shores  of  Erromanga,  looking  for 
her  in  vain  ! He  was  reduced  to  greatest  weakness 
by  the  fever  and  ague  of  the  climate  ; and,  the 
Natives  having  been  unusually  sick  also,  the  store  of 
medicine  was  exhausted  ; so  that  their  only  hope  was 
in  the  return  of  the  Vessel,  with  the  medicines  they 
so  much  needed.  Sometimes,  after  returning  from 
the  beach,  he  would  throw  himself  on  the  chair  and 
say,  “ I think  1 shall  be  in  my  grave,  before  the 
Dayspring  comes  ! ” And  he  did  die,  as  you  have 
heard — one  of  the  most  godly  and  devoted  Mis- 


PLANTING  A MISSION  HOUSE 


101 


sionaries  that  ever  came  to  tell  the  Heathen  about 
Jesus — not,  however,  before  the  Vessel  arrived  with 
all  fresh  supplies,  but  then  it  was  too  late  to  do  him 
any  real  good. 

It  would  be  easy  to  talk  for  hours  about  what  the 
Dayspring  does  for  the  Mission  ; and,  if  you  had  been 
on  board  last  year  on  the  return  from  the  Annual 
Meeting  of  the  Missionaries,  you  would  have  seen 
some  brisk  work  going  on  in  the  way  of  house- 
building. I was  very  much  amused  with  the  little 
I saw  at  Erromanga.  The  Day  spring  had  to  wait 
there  for  two  days  ; and  all  the  Missionaries  united 
to  improve  the  time,  to  the  utmost,  by  putting  up 
a cottage  for  Mr.  McNair  in  a healthier  situation. 
Captain  Fraser  himself  wrought  like  a common  sailor, 
and  spared  a couple  of  men  to  help ; so,  the  moment 
the  anchor  dropped  in  Dillon’s  Bay,  we  were  ordered 
into  the  boat.  The  eager  Missionaries  dispensed  with 
the  ceremony  of  paying  their  respects  at  the  Mission 
House,  first  of  all,  and,  leaping  out  of  the  boat,  as  we 
passed  the  site  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  where  the 
new  house  was  to  be  erected,  they  threw  off  their 
coats,  turned  back  their  shirt-wrists,  and,  in  less  than 
five  minutes,  were  making  brushwood  and  trees  fall 
before  them  in  their  zeal  to  prepare  for  the  foundation. 
They  worked  like  that  for  two  days,  and  managed 
to  get  up  the  wooden  framework  of  the  house — little 
dreaming  that  their  beloved  Brother  was  never  to 
enter  it ; for,  in  less  than  a fortnight,  he  was  taken 
home  to  the  Beautiful  Mansions  above  ! The  last  we 


102 


DEATH  AND  THE  » DAYSPRING 


saw  of  him  was  at  the  Boat  Landing,  where  he  stood 
looking  so  bright  and  pleasant,  wishing  us,  as  we 
shoved  off,  a hearty  “ God-speed  ! ” 

I have  told  you  a little  of  what  the  Dayspring  does 
for  the  Missionaries  ; but  just  think  of  what  it  has 
done  for  the  Heathen,  by  bringing  these  Missionaries 
to  them.  I have  not  time  to  dwell  on  this  ; but  there 
will  be  ages  and  ages  in  Eternity  for  these  redeemed 
Ethiopians  to  show  forth  their  praise  and  gratitude 
to  God  for  sending  us  to  tell  them  of  Him  who  died 
for  them.  Remember,  however,  that  it  is  the  Mis- 
sionary, and  not  the  Mission  Ship,  that  brings  souls 
to  the  Saviour  ; for  important  as  the  Day  spring  is, 
and  it  is  of  vital  importance,  it  cannot  make  known 
to  a single  individual  the  way  of  salvation  through 
Christ.  VVe  must  have  Missionaries,  who  will  go  and 
live  among  the  Darkies,  learn  their  language,  teach 
them  to  read,  and  show  them  what  it  is  to  live  as 
Christians.  Will  not  some  of  you,  who  have  done 
so  well  in  giving  your  money  to  the  Mission,  do 
infinitely  better  by  giving  yourselves  some  day? 

May  1 close  this  letter  with  one  little  word  of 
advice? — and  it  is  this:  whatever  you  do,  let  it  be 
done  “for  Jesus,”  who  values  even  a cup  of  cold 
water,  when  given  “ for  His  sake.”  You  might 
possibly  be  disappointed  in  your  Mission  Vessel,  if 
you  saw  her  ; and  if  you  came  to  be  Missionaries, 
you  would  find  it  uphill  work  indeed,  to  be  sacrificing 
your  whole  life  merely  for  the  sake  of  those  who  could 
not  understand  your  motives,  and  who  know  not  what 


FOR  HIS  DEAR  SAKE 


it  cost  you  to  give  up  home  and  friends.  But  Jesus 
regards  every  sigh,  and  whatever  is  done  for  Him  will 
meet  with  a sweet  reward  even  in  this  life ; for  He 
who  has  promised  can  never  disappoint  ! 

You  may  not  be  able  to  come  and  teach  the 
Heathen,  or  even  to  give  money  to  help  them,  but 
every  one  of  you  can  pray  for  them  and  for  us.  Do 
this  always,  like  dear  Children,  and  believe  me  to  be 

Your  loving  friend, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 


A TRIP  TO  THE  COLONIES 


(to  the  family  circle) 

Aniwa,  New  Hebrides,  1S71. 

Dearest  Friends,  one  and  all, — How  utterly 
helpless  one  feels  here  in  a case  of  sudden  emer- 
gency ! We  fancy  we  are  getting  on  independently 
of  all  the  machinery  of  Civilization,  when,  some  little 
hitch  occurring,  we  realize  what  we  owe  to  it.  Not 
for  ourselves  so  much  do  we  feel  it,  but  it  cuts  deep 
to  see  our  little  ones  -.suffer.  A severe  cough  and 
influenza  epidemic  having  swept  over  the  island  last 
September,  our  little  three-weeks-old  Baby  caught  it, 
and,  after  his  severe  tussle  with  the  cough,  needed 
special  skill.  Hence  our  trip  to  Lifu  in  the  Day- 
spring",  only  to  find  that  the  French,  to  our  most 
bitter  disappointment,  had  cleared  out,  just  one  week 
before,  leaving  only  a resident  official.  They  don’t 
want  to  be  scattered,  in  case  the  Prussians  come 
down  on  them  at  Port-de-France ! 

It  was  thought  by  all  that  I ought  to  take  Baby  to 
the  Colonies,  but  a more  inconvenient  time  could 
hardly  have  presented  itself.  The  Annual  Mis- 


“ A CLOUD  OF  WHITE 


105 


sionary  Conference  was  to  be  held  at  Aniwa,  after  the 
hot  season,  for  the  first  time  (it  has  always  been  held 
on  Aneityum  hitherto),  and  I had  all  sorts  of  pre- 
parations to  make  for  it.  John  could  not  possibly 
leave  his  work,  now  so  successful  and  so  intensely 
interesting  ; and  the  thought  of  being  away  from  him 
three  or  four  months  without  hearing  was  unbearable. 
The  want  of  postal  communication  makes  us  feel  so 
completely  shut  off  from  the  civilized  world — only 
getting  letters  once  a year  by  the  Dayspring ! There 
are  stray  chances  ; but  they  are  so  very  rare,  especi- 
ally on  Aniwa,  where  there  is  no  harbour,  that  we 
cannot  count  upon  them. 

Our  dear  Baby,  however,  dispelled  all  hesitancy,  by 
a violent  return  of  his  complaint ; and,  in  five  days 
thereafter,  we  were  on  our  way  to  Australia  in  the 
Dayspring , John  accompanying  us  on  board  to  put 
us  under  Captain  Fraser’s  kind  care.  I had  my  own 
way  about  bringing  our  Boys  with  me  ; but  our  pet 
Lassie,  the  ex-Baby,  not  quite  two  years  of  age,  John 
determinedly  refused  to  part  with,  imagining  all  sorts 
of  evil  would  befall  her  by  the  way.  Her  nurse  is  an 
experienced  Aneityumese  Teacher’s  wife,  who  won’t 
let  the  sun  light  upon  her  to  hurt  her.  The  little 
cloud  of  white  was  the  last  thing  my  eyes  rested 
upon,  as  the  shores  of  Aniwa  receded  from  view ; and 
the  first,  on  our  return  four  months  later,  as  her 
father  held  her  high  in  the  air  to  let  me  see  that  she 
was  all  right ! 

1 don’t  think  I ever  told  you  of  the  tremendous 


io6 


A TRIP  TO  THE  COLONIES 


sympathy — of  the  wrong  kind — that  I received  at  the 
birth  of  my  Baby  Girl.  It  was  on  a Sunday  morn- 
ing. I was  in  perfect  ecstasies  that  my  long-cherished 
wish  had  been  realized — I had  now  a daughter  of  my 
own  ! John  joyfully  announced  the  advent,  after  the 
Morning  Service  was  over  ; with  a gentle  prohibition 
against  any  one  visiting  me  for  a fortnight  at  least. 
A white  Congregation  might  be  rather  scandalized 
at  such  personal  and  domestic  references.  But  the 
Mission  is  altogether  a Family  concern  ; and  Family 
life  on  Christian  lines  is  quite  its  most  conspicuous 
feature.  In  Church,  you  must  be  prepared  to  hear 
your  full  name  popping  out,  right  in  the  middle  of 
a Native’s  prayer,  and  then  each  name  of  all  your 
Family,  and  Heaven’s  richest  blessing  invoked  on 
them  and  you,  especially  when  there  is  any  sickness 
or  trouble.  Is  this,  after  all,  not  more  sensible  than 
a Minister  in  Civilization  petitioning  “ for  Thine 
afflicted  handmaiden  ” — losing  for  you  all  sense  of 
worship  in  the  immediate  speculation  as  to  who  the 
handmaiden  may  be  ? 

Well,  on  that  delightful  Sabbath  evening,  John 
and  I had  a lovely  and  quiet  little  chat  about  “ our 
many  mercies.”  Indeed,  we  had  more  to  be  thankful 
for  than  may  at  first  appear,  as,  though  a digression,  I 
may  here  record.  Four  months  before,  I had  inad- 
vertently partaken  of  a very  poisonous  fish,  which  dear 
old  Namakei  the  Chief  had  unwittingly  brought  to 
us.  (And  didn’t  he  have  to  stand  a storm  of  abuse 
from  his  Heathen  brethren  ! They  had  not  taken  the 


POISONED  BY  A FISH 


107 


Worship ; but,  then,  they  did  not  try  to  kill  Missi's 
zvife  /)  The  poison  got  a terrible  hold  upon  my 
system.  The  two  Natives  who  partook  of  the  same 
fish  after  it  left  our  supper-table  (what  a merciful 
Providence  that  John  took  no  supper,  and  that  the 
Bairns  were  in  bed !)  both  got  sick,  immediately 
came  out  in  a rash,  and  were  quite  better  in  a few 
days.  I was  almost  dead  before  the  emetic  took 
any  effect ; the  brandy  I drained  seemed  of  no  more 
consequence  than  water  ; and,  indeed,  I have  never 
properly  rallied.  We  did  not  dare  show  the  Natives 
that  I was  ill  so  long,  lest  they  superstitiously  thought 
the  Worship  was  bringing  a new  disease  amongst 
them.  So  I managed  to  get  through  the  teaching 
and  the  outward  duties  in  a kind  of  way  ; and  John 
shortened  our  Services,  whenever  he  saw  me  getting 
very  faint,  without  the  Natives  knowing  why.  No 
watches  here  ! 

Well,  as  I was  remarking,  before  being  interrupted 
by  this  fish-digression,  on  that  glorious  Sabbath 
evening  my  dear  Husband  poured  out  his  heart  in  a 
prayer  of  thanksgiving,  before  going  to  his  Study  to 
mount  guard  and  keep  out  intruders,  leaving  the 
door  open  between  my  room  and  it.  Several  times 
he  heard  a slight  rustling,  but,  when  he  listened 
again,  all  was  still.  It  turned  out  to  be  two  dear 
elderly  Native  women,  creeping  on  their  hands  and 
knees,  determined  to  get  close  to  me  by  fair  means 
or  foul,  in  order  to  console  me  in  what  they  thought 
my  misery  ! They  seized  my  hand  sympathetically, 


io8 


A TRIP  TO  THE  COLONIES 


and  said,  0 Missi,  Missi , you  are  young , and  will 
live  to  forget  this  day ! A panic  seized  me,  as  I 
heard  their  words,  about  my  Husband  and  my  Boys, 
though  I had  seen  them  only  a few  minutes  ago  ; 
but  their  next  remarks  re-assured  me — “ You  must 
not  fret  about  having  only  a Girl  this  time  ; you 
know  you  have  had  two  Sons  already,  and  will  have 
many  more  before  you  die.  We  have  all  had  to  bear 
the  same  disappointment.  We  cannot  always  have 
Sons ! ” I used  the  most  forcible  language  which  I 
knew,  in  their  vocabulary,  to  make  it  very  clear  to 
them  that  their  sympathy  was  entirely  wasted.  I 
made  them  exclaim  with  delight  at  the  fat  dimpled 
face  and  hands  ; and  they  left  the  room  comforting 
themselves  that  they  had  seen  “ a real  white  little 
Woman  of  Aniwa.” 

That  same  Little  Woman  of  Anizva  has  done  more 
to  reconcile  those  poor  unfortunates  here,  who  have 
obtained  only  daughters,  than  a hundred  sermons 
could  have  done.  They  see  what  a treasured  pet  she 
is  to  us,  as  God’s  precious  gift,  and  our  actions  speak 
louder  than  any  words.  All  little  Girls  of  Aniwa 
will  be  more  lovingly  treated  in  the  days  to  come,  for 
the  love  we  showed  to  this  Little  Woman  of  Aniwa. 

Fools,  who  have  had  no  experience  ot  the  many- 
sided  influences  of  Christianity  in  saving  and  in 
civilizing  the  Heathen,  may  chatter  against  Mission- 
aries marrying,  and  shake  their  heads  about  the 
distractions  of  a family.  We  who  are  in  the  thick  of 
the  work,  and  know  all  sides  to  the  question,  feel 


THE  GOSPEL  OF  FAMILY-LIFE 


109 


overwhelmingly  thankful  that  God  has  given  us 
these  children,  not  only  for  our  own  happiness,  but 
even  for  our  work’s  sake.  How  often  are  those 
wonderful  words  suggested  to  us,  A little  Child 
shall  lead  them  ! Our  Bairns  are  little  Missionaries, 
every  one.  They  have  called  forth  in  the  Natives  a 
softened  feeling  towards  us,  and  in  us  towards  the 
Natives  and  their  Children.  Strange  to  say,  too, 
they  have  given  us  material  help  in  mastering  the 
language.  They  do  not,  of  course,  know  nearly  as 
much  of  it  as  we,  who  study  it  grammatically ; but 
they  seem  to  imbibe  the  idiom  with  their  very  breath. 
Their  language  is  Polyglot.  They  speak  to  us  in 
English.  I strove  hard  to  keep  them  from  learning 
Aniwan,  for  the  sake  of  their  morals,  but  could  not 
manage  it,  with  Native  servants  all  about.  So  they 
always  talk  Aniwan  in  their  play  ; and  the  Natives 
are  so  proud  to  hear  them  lisping  “ the  language  of 
Aniwa.” 

The  life  of  the  Christian  Home  is  the  best  treatise 
on  Christianity — a daily  object-lesson,  which  all  can 
understand,  can  “ read,  mark,  learn,  and  inwardly 
digest  ” ; in  fact,  it  is  the  only  Bible  which  many  of 
them  will  ever  read  ! It  wakens  a terrible  feeling  of 
responsibility  to  see  how  they  sometimes  look  up  to 
us  ; not  that  many  of  them  appreciate  in  the  very 
least  our  motives  for  coming  to  live  amongst  them. 
They  cannot  rise  to  the  feelings  engendered  by  the 
Cross  ; and,  as  “ every  man  imputes  himself,”  they 
take  for  granted  that  we  must  have  in  view  some 


A TRIP  TO  THE  COLONIES 


1 10 


ulterior  and  selfish  object.  We  were  struck  with  this 
very  specially,  one  day,  when  a brazen-faced  embodi- 
ment of  the  Evil  Spirit,  the  wildest  Savage  on  Aniwa, 
came  to  demand  something  or  other,  and  John  gave 
him  a lecture  on  his  evil  ways  instead.  Rangi  tossed 
his  head,  and  threatened  to  go  to  Hell — if  he  might 
not  get  doing  as  he  liked.  John  rebuked  and 
appealed  to  him.  But  I,  not  being  the  Missionary 
exactly,  felt  free  to  express  my  mind,  hinting  pretty 
broadly  that  that  was  the  place  for  him,  that  he 
would  find  suitable  company  there,  and  that  it  need 
not  affect  us  whether  he  went  upstairs  or  down  ! 
Whereon  he  turned  in  amazement,  and  asked,  “If 
it  doesn’t  make  any  great  difference  to  you  then, 
for  what  did  you  leave  your  own  land  and  come  to 
us?” 

It  is  hard  to  believe  sometimes  that  they  can  get 
any  good,  proportionate  to  the  sacrifice  made  for 
them  ; and  it  is  at  this  stage  that  one’s  faith  and 
obedience  are  put  to  the  test.  We  have  got  to 
believe  that  the  Lord  meant  what  He  said,  when  He 
commanded  that  the  Gospel  should  be  given  to 
“every  creature”;  and  I .can  understand  now  why 
Paul,  the  greatest  Apostle,  was  not  kept  as  a sort 
of  splendid  figure-head  at  Jerusalem,  but  sent  “far 
hence  ” among  the  Gentiles  to  assault  the  strongholds 
of  Satan.  The  Lord  showed  what  He  thought  of  the 
importance  of  Foreign  Missions  by  sending  His  best 
man  to  be  the  first  Missionary  to  the  Heathen ; but 
I think  He  gets  precious  few,  even  of  His  own 


CHRISTIAN  NATIVES  OF  ERROMANGA. 
( Photographed  by  Dr.  Gunn.) 


QUALIFICATIONS  OF  MISSIONARIES 


11' 


followers,  to  agree  with  Him  in  this.  They  say  (and 
I was  often  met  with  the  remark  on  our  late  visit  to 
Australia),  Any  o:u  will  do  for  /lies:  Heathens  ; and 
seem  to  grudge  a man  of  burning  enthusiasm  and 
magnetic  eloquence  going  to  the  Foreign  Field,  as  if 
it  were  so  much  power  and  genius  being  wasted. 
We,  from  our  point  of  view,  think  that  it  is  here,  in 
the  Foreign  Mission  Field,  that  such  a man  finds 
warfare  worthy  of  his  steel,  in  trying  to  break  off  the 
time-riveted  fetters  of  Idolatry.  Undoubtedly  it  is 
the  very  men  who  are  most  needed  and  best  qualified, 
to  fill  the  higher  posts  in  Civilization,  who  are  also 
wanted,  indeed,  who  only  are  fit  to  be  trusted  with 
the  overthrow  of  Satan-Worship  in  the  darkest  places 
of  the  earth. 

One  hears  and  is  asked  so  much  about  the  qualifi- 
cations needed  for  Missionaries,  by  people  who  can’t 
be  got  to  understand  that  all  that  tends  to  make 
a good  and  true  Man  anywhere  tends  to  make  a 
good  Missionary  for  the  Foreign  Field  ; and  ditto , 
with  double  emphasis,  for  the  Missionary’s  wife ! 
Sanctified  Common-Sense,  and  high  Culture,  are 
Means  of  Grace  among  Savages,  as  among  others, 
when  they  are  laid  upon  the  Altar  to  God.  Though 
they  have  not  such  gifts  themselves,  they  are  capable 
of  detecting  the  want  of  them  in  others.  But,  highest 
reason  of  all  is  this : No  Missionary  can  have  too 
many  resources  within  himself,  or  accomplishments, 
to  bear  up  against  the  down-dragging  influences  of 
Heathen  surroundings.  If  one  had  only  time,  there 

b 


A TRIP  TO  THE  COLONIES 


1 14 

is  splendid  scope  here  for  certain  branches  of  study. 
The  beauties  of  Nature  are  such  that  Artist  cannot 
capture  nor  Poet  depict  them.  The  brilliance  and 
the  colouring  of  sky  and  of  water  would  drive  a painter 
to  despair.  Conchologists,  Botanists,  and  Naturalists 
would  find  food  for  endless  and  delightful  specula- 
tions. 

The  Natives  have  a rudimentary  knowledge  of 
Botany,  and  their  own  names  for  every  tree  and  plant 
on  the  island.  One  morning,  as  John  was  setting  out 
to  a distance  with  some  of  his  lads,  he  saw  a pretty 
little  fern  which  he  thought  I might  like  for  the 
Rockery,  and,  cutting  it  out  by  the  roots,  he  sent  one 
of  them  back  with  it.  Farther  on  there  was  another 
beauty,  which  he  examined,  but  remarked  that,  as  it 
was  exactly  the  same,  he  would  not  uproot  it.  “ It 
looks  the  same,  Missi,”  they  replied,  “ but  is  not  ” ; 
and  they  indicated  its  minute  points  of  distinction, 
which  ranked  it  in  an  altogether  different  family 
of  ferns  ! 

They  have  also  names  for  many  of  the  Stars,  but 
don’t  attempt  to  number  them — as  they  can  count 
only  up  to  ten  ! When  they  want  to  impress  you 
numerically,  for  instance,  with  any  person’s  great  age, 
they  say  he  has  lived  more  yams,  i.e.  years,  than  all 
their  fingers,  counting  them,  then  their  toes,  pointing 
to  each  ; then  impressively  pointing  to  their  heads, 
they  add  they  are  like  their  hairs  and  more  than  can 
be  numbered ! John  makes  them  count  in  English, 
and  simple  addition  and  subtraction  are  to  them  the 


WISEACRES  ASTRAY 


115 

deepest  mysteries  of  learning,  to  which  only  the  most 
advanced  can  hope  to  attain.  The  strain  of  having 
to  exercise  their  minds  to  think  in  Foreign  words  is 
too  much  for  them.  It  would  be  dreadful  to  risk 
their  soul’s  salvation  on  the  chance  of  their  under- 
standing the  little  smattering  they  might  get  of 
English ; though  many  well-intentioned  Wiseacres 
gave  us  brilliant  advice  about  teaching  them  the 
English  language,  giving  them  the  English  Bible, 
and  throwing  open  to  them  the  glorious  treasures  of 
English  Literature ! ! 

If  they  could  only  show  us  how  to  throw  open  their 
winds  to  receive  it , they  would  indeed  be  doing  us  a 
service.  They  seem  to  think  that  our  Islanders  have 
no  Mother-Tongue  of  their  own,  and  that  they  are 
standing  all  agape,  ready  to  drink  in  instruction. 
Would  people  only  exercise  a little  common-sense, 
and  consider  whether  they  would  thus  eagerly  learn 
a Foreign  language  from  longing  to  be  instructed 
about  a new  God ! Or,  even,  how  would  we  like  to 
go  back  only  to  pre-Reformation  days,  and  have  our 
Bible  practically  a sealed  book,  by  seeing  it  exclusively 
in  the  Latin  tongue  ! If  a Chinaman  wanted  to  come 
and  instruct  us  in  the  doctrines  of  Confucius,  he  would 
certainly  begin  by  learning  our  language,  and  adapting 
himself  to  our  modes  of  thought,  not  by  trying  to 
teach  us  Chinese  and  throwing  open  to  us  the  treasures 
of  Chinese  Literature.  Of  course,  it  would  be  very 
nice  for  that  Chinese  Missionary,  if  we  would  learn 
his  language  and  save  him  the  trouble  of  learning 


1 16 


A TRIP  TO  THE  COLONIES 


ours  ! But,  then,  we  wouldn’t ; and  no  more  will  the 
South  Sea  Islander,  who  can  date  his  beloved  Mother- 
Tongue  as  far  back  as  any  of  us.  The  Tower  of  Babel ! 
They  say  the  New  Hebrideans  came  directly  from  that 
scene  of  confusion  of  tongues,  and  1 verily  believe  it. 

All  the  same,  it  would  be  splendid  if  our  Islanders 
could  speak  English,  and  we  heartily  teach  them  all 
we  can.  Mr.  Inglis  says  the  only  way  to  bring  it 
about  would  be  to  take  all  the  Children  and  Babies 
away  from  their  Mothers,  and  to  bring  them  up 
entirely  with  English-speaking  people  ! Many  a good 
laugh  they  must  have  had  at  our  expense,  in  our 
efforts  to  speak  Aniwan.  It  is  so  difficult  at  once 
to  think  and  to  speak  fluently  in  a Foreign  tongue, 
to  say  nothing  of  speaking  idiomatically ; and  I can 
tell  you,  my  sympathy  now  flows  out  to  Foreigners. 
Although  we  can  gabble  away  to  the  Natives,  and 
understand  pretty  well  what  they  say,  they  could  easily 
cheat  us  ; indeed,  they  might  be  plotting  our  destruc- 
tion, by  our  side  and  in  our  hearing,  by  simply 
concealing  all  the  meaning  in  a well-known  parabolic 
style  of  their  own.  They  have  borne  with  us  very 
politely,  and  not  laughed  at  us  half  so  much  as  they 
might  have  done  ; for  they  do  enjoy  a joke,  as  children 
do,  and  are  a merry-hearted  race — often  laughing 
so  heartily  that  they  work  it  off  by  rolling  on  the 
ground  ! 

These  cheery  Natives  were  not  long  in  finding  out 
my  provoking  sense  of  the  ludicrous,  which  has  been 
a great  trouble  to  me  in  my  Missionary  life  here — 


A LAUGHABLE  MARRIAGE 


117 


there  is  so  much  to  evoke  laughter.  By  desperate 
efforts,  even  in  Church,  I had  kept  my  risibles  under 
some  sort  of  control  ; but  I lost  any  reputation  that 
way  achieved,  on  the  celebration  of  a most  comical 
wedding.  The  Bride  was  rather  an  old  girl,  say 
fifty  odd  years,  and  as  she  had  gone  through  the 
same  ordeal  three  or  four  times  before,  d la  Native , 
she  could  not  see  the  use  of  making  an  exhibition 
of  herself  this  time  in  the  Church.  At  any  rate,  she 
would  not  “ rise  ” to  the  occasion,  when  her  young 
Bridegroom  stood  ready  to  take  upon  himself  the 
vows  of  Matrimony.  After  sundry  whispered  admoni- 
tions, and  more  vigorous  kicks  from  those  around, 
she  was  at  length  got  on  her  feet ; but,  on  finding 
that  she  was  expected  to  take  her  partner  by  the 
hand,  she  flopped  down  again  determinedly ; and 
the  Missi,  with  a helpless  and  puzzled  look  on  his 
face,  had  to  go  on  with  the  Ceremony,  on  these 
conditions.  I confess  I heard  nothing  more,  being 
obliged  to  duck  my  head  and  give  in,  almost  audibly 
pleading  that  the  number  of  times  I had  successfully 
resisted  should  be  counted  in  my  favour ! It  was 
noised  abroad,  immediately  after  the  Service,  the 
Happy  Pair  having  at  once  bolted  out  at  different 
doors  and  in  opposite  directions,  as  if  they  never 
meant  to  meet  again,  that  the  Missi  find  had  been 
dead  (i.e.  gone  into  fits)  in  the  Church  ! 

I have  rued  that  day  ever  since,  as  they  have  made 
it  impossible  for  me  to  reform.  Of  course,  there  are 
no  more  scenes  like  the  above,  as  we  are  now  getting 


1 18 


A TRIP  TO  THE  COLONIES 


too  “ civilized.”  But  if  anything  out  of  the  way,  or 
the  least  bit  comical,  takes  place  in  the  Church,  a 
hundred  pairs  of  merry  twinkling  black  eyes  and 
mischievously  expectant  faces  are  in  an  instant  turned 
eagerly  towards  my  seat — sufficient  of  itself  to  upset 
my  not  too  heavily  weighted  gravity. 

. . . How  charming  it  was  to  be  in  a Civilized 
Church  again,  and  to  listen  to  an  excellent  sermon 
in  one’s  own  language,  after  nearly  five  years  among 
the  Darkies  ! Geelong  was  our  first  destination, 
which  we  reached  on  a Sabbath  afternoon,  and  went 
to  the  Evening  Service  at  St.  George’s.  We  were 
quite  a large  party — Dr.  and  Miss  Geddie,  Captain 
and  Mrs.  Fraser,  Mrs.  McNair  and  I,  besides  some 
of  the  Dayspring  crew,  looking  so  respectable  in 
their  Sunday  “ rig.”  The  Church,  internally,  looked 
chaste  and  beautiful ; the  pulpit  artistically  so,  of 
light  grey  stone,  draped  with  cerise-coloured  velvet ; 
and  the  rails  were  bluish  green.  Mr.  Campbell’s  sub- 
ject was  Jesus  and  His  Disciples  talking  of  Heaven , 
and  one  could  easily  imagine  the  scene  on  that  lovely 
Summer  evening.  The  second  last  hymn  was  “ O’er 
these  gloomy  hills  of  darkness,”  and  it  came  home  to 
me  with  such  power  that  I could  not  venture  to  sing 
a line — my  thoughts  were  all  on  Aniwa ! When  the 
collection  was  being  taken,  they  passed  our  seats 
(doubtless  thinking  we  had  done  fairiy  well  in  giving 
ourselves  !) ; but  Louis,  one  of  our  Sailors,  made  a 
very  decided  flourish  of  his  arm  in  the  air,  so  the 
plate  had  to  be  brought  back.  How  kind  everybody 


LITSI  IN  SHOES 


119 


was,  and  what  a cordial  invitation  we  had  to  the 
Manse — Boys,  Nurse,  and  all  ! 

I had  often,  while  on  the  island,  pictured  what  my 
sensations  would  be,  if  ever  I again  trod  the  streets 
of  Civilization  ; but  I had  none  at  all  ! It  all  came 
so  natural,  that  I quite  forgot  I had  ever  been  away, 
as  we  flew  round  “shopping”  all  next  day — a very 
necessary  pre-requisite  to  our  appearing  anywhere. 
It  was  great  fun  getting  Litsi  into  shoes,  for  the 
first  time,  before  we  all  went  on  shore  to  stay  ; and 
she  was  so  unsteady  on  her  unaccustomed  leather 
feet,  that  I had  to  carry  the  Baby,  for  she  needed  her 
outstretched  arms  to  balance  herself,  as  she  went 
clamping  along  and  squealing,  Missi,  Missi,  I'll 
fall!  I'll  fall!  The  Native  Language  quite  inter- 
ested the  genteel  crowd  that  began  to  gather  around, 
while  I felt  disposed  to  register  an  inward  vow  that 
the  next  walk  I took  with  Litsi  would  be  “ a moon- 
light flitting.” 

It  was,  however,  an  abiding  joy  to  me  that,  during 
all  our  stay,  every  one  was  so  kind  to  poor  dear 
warm-hearted  Litsi.  The  servants,  at  the  different 
houses  of  our  friends,  made  quite  a pet  of  her  ; and, 
in  the  Coasting  Steamers,  the  ladies  made  no  objec- 
tion to  her  sleeping  in  their  Cabin.  Litsi  had  exalted 
and  very  exaggerated  expectations  in  going  to  the 
White  Man's  Land , the  land  of  the  Missionary, 
where  she  would  see  only  what  was  pure  and  good 
and  holy  ; but,  to  the  credit  of  those  with  whom 
she  met,  and  her  not  being  able  to  read  the  Daily 


120 


A TRIP  TO  THE  COLONIES 


Newspapers,  she  was  not  disillusionized.  When  we 
arrived  at  Adelaide,  and  she  saw  the  Royal  Welcome 
1 got  from  my  own  Mother  and  Sister  and  all  the 
dear  ones  there,  it  struck  her  in  a peculiar  way,  which 
she  could  never  get  over.  I was,  of  course,  wild  with 
delight,  and  flew  from  room  to  room,  all  talking 
merrily,  as  we  were  being  shown  over  the  pretty  new 
Manse,  and  the  Cousins  making  friends  with  each 
other.  When,  at  last,  I went  upstairs  to  my  room, 
there  I found  Litsi  sitting  on  the  floor,  and  sobbing 
like  to  break  her  heart ! As  I anxiously  inquired 
the  cause,  she  burst  out  : “ Missi,  I never  knew  what 
you  had  given  up  to  come  to  our  Dark  Land ! I 
never  knew  you  had  given  up  a Mother  like  that,  or 
such  a Sister  and  Brother-in-law.  We  did  not  know 
you  lived  in  such  beautiful  homes.  I fear,  I pear,  you 
will  never  go  back  to  our  Dark  Land  again." 

In  truth,  Litsi’s  remarks  about  Civilization  showed 
more  wide-awake  intelligence,  than  did  as  a rule  the 
White  folks’  remarks  about  Heathendom.  She  once 
asked  me  if  the  Adelaideans  had  all  quarrelled,  as 
hardly  any  of  them  alofa-ed  each  other  in  passing ; 
and,  when  told  that  they  had  to  wait  for  “ introduc- 
tions ” before  speaking,  said,  “Was  it  not  enough 
that  they  knew  each  other  as  Christians  ? ” At  one 
Minister’s  house,  she  came  to  me  in  great  consterna- 
tion, and  said,  “ Didn't  you  say  that  Mr.  Blank  was  a 
Missi?”  “Yes;  why?”  “ Oh,  you  must  be  mistaken. 
Look,  he  has  a pipe  in  his  mouth ! ” There,  sure 
enough,  was  the  worthy  Divine,  enjoying  a quiet  whiff 


THE  TOBACCO  QUESTION 


121 


in  his  garden.  I knew  that  tobacco  was  tabooed, 
and  for  strong  reasons,  as  an  evil  by  the  Missionaries  ; 
but,  not  being  at  the  moment  ready  to  explain  how 
it  was  wicked  for  a Black  man  and  not  wicked  for 
a White  man  to  smoke,  I mumbled  something  about 
people  having  sometimes  to  smoke  “ for  toothache  ! ” 
And  what  an  amount  of  needless  sympathy  poor 
Litsi,  from  day  to  day,  lavished  upon  that  sorely- 
afflicted  man  ! 

To  prevent  misapprehension,  I may  here  add  that 
the  Tobacco  Question  was  brought  up  at  the  Synod 
by-and-bye,  by  the  Younger  Missionaries.  They 
urged  that  it  was  setting  up  a false  standard  of 
Christian  living  to  forbid  smoking,  when  that  was 
the  first  thing  the  Natives  would  see  among  professed 
Christians  whenever  they  visited  Civilized  Countries. 
The  embargo  was  accordingly  removed  from  the 
Dayspring , and  the  “ weed  ” may  be  used  as  an  article 
of  barter.  The  elder  Missionaries  had,  in  their  more 
trying  conditions,  good  and  sufficient  reasons  for 
prohibiting  tobacco,  specially  owing  to  Trading  asso- 
ciations of  a demoralizing  character.  But  a time  had 
come,  when  most  were  agreed  that  the  prohibition 
was  to  a certain  extent  a hindrance  to  the  Gospel. 
It  may,  possibly  at  least,  be  reduced  to  harmlessness  ; 
and  really,  there  is  so  much  of  crying  and  unquestioned 
Sin  around  us  which  must,  at  all  hazards,  be  forbidden 
and  denounced,  that  what  is  not  in  itself  sinful  may 
well,  in  regard  to  practice,  be  relegated  to  the  category 
of  open  questions  ! I gave  in,  long  before  John  (if  he 


122 


A TRIP  TO  THE  COLONIES 


has  really  given  in  yet !) — and  it  has  occasioned  a 
great  deal  of  innocent  pleasure  for  me  to  make  a very 
modest  weekly  gift  to  my  Cook  and  Herd,  all  the 
while  renewing  the  strict  injunction,  “ No  Smoking 
on  the  Premises.” 

What  a lot  Litsi  had  to  tell  of  the  wonders  of 
Missi’s  Land,  when  she  returned  ! And  all  so  different 
from  the  Savages  who  had  gone  up  with  the  Slavers, 
and  seen  only  the  evils,  which  they  are  quick  to 
imitate — for  they  understand,  as  with  lightning  flash, 
what  appeals  to  their  lower  nature.  Litsi  has,  like 
her  father,  dear  old  Namakei,  a refined  and  gentle 
nature  ; so  much  so,  that  her  sweet  and  intelligent 
face  won  all  hearts.  I can  never  be  grateful  enough 
for  the  ever  kind  and  ever  respectful  way  in  which 
she  was  treated  by  our  generous  friends  in  the  Colonies. 
Helen’s  servants  used  to  learn  her  Hymns,  and  sing 
them  with  her  in  the  evenings  in  the  kitchen,  so  that 
she  felt  quite  at  home.  How  instinctively  she  at  once 
detected  the  difference  between  an  intelligent  interest 
in  her,  and  that  of  those  who  petted  her  like  a 
favourite  pup  that  can  appreciate  nothing  but  food  ! 

Litsi’s  Mistress,  also,  experienced  a mighty  differ- 
ence in  the  numerous  and  varied  inquiries  into  Mission 
life.  Some  such  stupid  questions  were  asked  by  people 
still  more  stupid.  My  patient  and  praiseworthy 
Husband  sets  himself  unweariedly  to  enlighten  every 
one,  worthy  and  unworthy  alike  ; and,  in  reply  to  the 
most  outrageous  questions,  pours  forth  his  soul  on 
his  beloved  Mission  and  his  dear  Islanders.  No  one 


WELCOME  HOME  AGAIN 


123 


could  imagine  what  may  be  encountered  even  amongst 
the  friends  of  Mission  ; once  and  again  I heard  blood- 
thirsty females  soliloquizing  thus:  “Only  four  Mis- 
sionaries murdered  on  Erromanga?  I quite  thought 
it  was  more.  But  they  were  cooked  and  eaten  ! — 
weren’t  they  ? ” 

. . . The  Home-Coming  was  just  delicious.  Every- 
thing that  John  and  the  Darkies  could  think  of  was 
done  to  welcome  us.  The  word  WELCOME  shone 
in  great  letters  over  the  front  gate.  The  lawn  and 
all  the  grounds  were  in  perfect  order ; and  several 
alterations  beautifully  carried  through,  which  I had 
long  desired — among  the  rest,  a Day  Nursery  and 
extra  bedroom  had  been  built.  And  withal,  there 
was  on  everything  that  flavour  of  originality  which 
only  the  Natives  can  bestow— for  instance,  sheets 
spread  out  for  table-cloths,  and  vice  versa , toilet  covers 
for  towels,  etc.,  etc. ! 

I had  six  weeks  to  prepare  for  the  Mission  Synod 
here.  It  passed  off  splendidly  ; for,  in  truth,  the  good 
men,  one  and  all,  were  easily  pleased  and  easily  enter- 
tained. Seven  Missionaries,  including  the  Captain, 
came  as  guests ; and  my  cooks  and  servants  were  up 
to  the  mark.  Mr  Inglis  wrote  playfully  afterwards, 
to  one  of  his  friends,  that  “ they  were  like  to  die  the 
death  of  Dickens  — hard  work  and  high  living!” 
They  did  a great  deal  of  solemn  and  important 
business,  and  needed  to  be  well  sustained,  which  we 
did  to  our  modest  best.  Their  meetings  were  held 
in  the  Study,  and  all  went  happily. 


124 


A TRIP  TO  THE  COLONIES 


My  Baby’s  baptism  was,  to  us,  the  most  interesting 
event,  of  course.  Dear  Mr.  Inglis,  who  has  baptized 
all  our  Children,  baptized  him  at  the  close  of  the 
first  Sunday  Service.  The  Natives  were  intensely 
interested  in  seeing  the  first  White  Baby  baptized  on 
their  island  (the  others  were  baptized  at  Aneityum). 
But,  if  the  stark  truth  must  be  told,  the  killing  of 
a Bull,  next  morning,  carried  away  the  palm  for 
interest.  Half  the  island  turned  out  before  daylight 
to  be  in  at  the  death — which,  alas,  they  made  as 
tragical  as  possible  by  firing  six  shots  at  the  poor 
animal,  and  then  scampering  off  after  each,  with  the 
animal  tearing  after  them  ! Mr.  Nelson  fired  the  last, 
and  the  only  effectual  shot. 

. . . Dayspring  in  sight ! Goodbye  ! 

Ever  yours  affectionately, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton 


IX 


FAMILY  LIFE  AND  CHURCH  LIFE 
(TO  THE  FAMILY  CIRCLE) 

Aniwa,  New  Hebrides,  1872. 

Dearest  Home-Friends,  and  others,— In  the 
end  of  March  last,  we  were  greeted  with  awful  tidings 
— poor  Gordon  killed  on  Erromanga  ! We  had  got 


REV.  J.  D.  GORDON. 


over  the  Hot  Season,  and  were  eagerly  preparing  for 
the  arrival  of  the  Dayspring , with  our  yearly  Mail 
and  supplies,  when  a boat  brought  over  the  shocking 
news,  with  a pathetic  letter  to  John  from  the  Christian 
Natives  there.  Ataulo,  Mackie,  Naleen,  and  some 
other  poor  fellows,  came  in  the  boat,  broken-hearted, 
and  wanted  to  stay  here  altogether 

125 


126 


FAMILY  LIFE  AND  CHURCH  LIFE 


Sad  to  say,  dear  Gordon  was  tomahawked  by  a 
superstitious  Native,  who  regarded  him  as  bringing 
disease  amongst  them,  though  they  were  indebted 
to  a Trading  Vessel  for  that.  A confederate  went 
along  with  the  murderer,  to  give  him  his  moral 
support ! And  that  noble  fellow,  whom  we  knew 
and  loved,  has  been  cut  down  in  his  prime.  I cannot 
enter  upon  the  horrid  details.  A certain  type  of 
so-called  Religions  paper  will  dilate  on  these.  For 
us,  it  is  all  too  near,  and  too  real,  and  he  was  our 
Brother  Missionary!  What  a difference  it  makes 
to  hear  of  such  an  event  from  a safe  distance  in 
Civilization,  and  to  have  the  tragedy  enacted  close 
to  your  Home,  and  by  the  very  people,  or  their 
kindred,  with  whom  you  are  every  day  surrounded. 
It  begets  such  an  eerie  feeling  ; and,  for  the  time, 
it  bred  a distrust  of  black  faces  in  general. 

A few  evenings  thereafter,  John  having  occasion 
to  go  to  the  Boat  Harbour,  I was  too  frightened  to 
stay  behind  (Nurses  and  Bairns  had  gone  on  before, 
always  in  the  thick  of  everything !)  ; and,  as  we 
strolled  home  arm-in-arm  in  the  quiet  moonlight, 
John  tried  to  persuade  me  how  nice  it  would  be  to 
take  a little  time  for  the  same  thing  every  evening, 
how  it  would  do  me  good,  etc.  He  was  astonished, 
when  I informed  him  that  he  was  indebted  to  poor 
Gordon  for  this  quiet  walk  and  talk  ! We  have 
since  heard  that  the  dear  Missi  Gordon  was  just 
translating  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles  at  the  stoning 
of  Stephen,  and  that,  when  his  murderers  smilingly 


THE  MURDERER  OF  GORDON,  AND  HIS  CHILD, 

(. Photographed  by  Dr.  Gunn,) 


RULES  OF  LIFE  AND  WORK 


129 


called  him  out  and  sent  him  to  join  the  Noble  Army 
of  the  Martyrs,  the  ink  was  still  wet  on  the  page  at 
these  heartbreakingly  tender  words,  Lord , lay  not 
this  sin  to  their  charge. 

. . . Our  work  jogs  along  pleasantly  here  ; none 
the  less  so,  that  we — I,  rather — have  made  a very 
few  stern  rules  that  must  be  kept.  The  Natives 
about  have  got  into  our  ways.  I have  not  to  chase 
round,  as  I used  to  do,  to  prevent  them  plucking  the 
fowls  for  table  before  they  are  killed.  This  they 
were  very  fond  of  doing  for  the  mere  pleasure  of 
hearing  them  scream  ! From  almost  the  first  day,  I 
made  rules  about  not  allowing  the  Natives  generally 
to  come  into  the  house  during  our  meals  ; or  ever  to 
go  into  the  Cook-House,  under  any  pretence  what- 
ever, as  I don’t  care  to  have  suggestions  of  their 
personality  in  our  food.  If  they  want  to  see  the 
Cook,  he  goes  out  to  them.  By  the  way,  he  is  quite 
a character,  that  Cook  of  ours  ; knows  a few  words 
of  English,  which  he  is  fond  of  airing,  and  says, 
“Yes,  Sir,”  and  “No,  Sir,”  to  me.  I can’t  feel  in 
my  heart  to  bring  him  down  from  his  pedestal  of 
politeness,  by  correcting  his  mistake,  and  John  won’t, 
pleading  that  the  fellow  shows  great  penetration 
and  knows  exactly  who  rules  the  roast ! One  nice 
old  man,  eager  to  imitate  the  Missi  in  everything, 
began  addressing  me  as  “ Maggie,  dear ! ” but  his 
Reverence  promptly  interfered,  and  put  a stop  to 
that. 

Our  Natives  are  very  amusing  in  many  of  their 

9 


'3° 


FAMILY  LIFE  AND  CHURCH  LIFE 


ways  ; and,  though  often  provoking  and  disappointing 
we  do  not  lose  heart,  as  we  might  do  with  white 
people,  remembering  that  in  these  respects  they  are 
only  children  after  all.  We  manage  to  keep  our 
Bairns,  in  a large  measure,  separate  from  the  Native 
children,  for  weighty  reasons,  but  it  requires  a little 
engineering  to  prevent  them  from  feeling  it.  The 
front  of  our  house  is  quite  fenced  off,  and  the  side 
gates  are  locked,  so  that  they  play  about  by  them- 
selves, or  with  their  nurses ; and,  on  Sundays,  we  are 
entirely  free  of  visitors.  On  this  latter  subject  I had 
more  bother  with  the  Missi  than  with  the  Natives. 
He  maintained,  of  course,  that  we  are  here  for  their 
benefit,  which  I heartily  agree  to,  and  for  six  days 
in  the  week  I am  their  devoted  servant  in  Christ,  at 
their  beck  and  call;  but,  in  His  name,  I claim  this 
one  day,  so  far  as  its  domestic  life  is  concerned,  to  be 
unreservedly  given  up  to  our  little  ones. 

We,  thus,  can  preserve  Our  Family  Life  even  in  the 
midst  of  Heathendom.  After  Church  Services  and 
Sunday  Schools  are  over,  and  the  Natives  who  prefer 
to  remain  are  supplied  with  piles  of  Picture  Books, 
which  they  immensely  enjoy  sprawling  at  full  length 
on  the  grass,  the  Paton  Family  have  a sweet  and 
blessed  time  under  our  shady  front  verandah.  Books 
for  our  Bairns  are  read  aloud,  followed  by  question 
and  Hymn  and  happy  talks;  and  we  ourselves,  bathing 
in  these  fountains  of  love  Human  and  Divine,  are 
rested  and  refreshed  for  the  duties  of  an  approaching 
week. 


THE  LAW  AND  THE  GOSPEL  13 1 

In  fact,  we  keep  far  better  friends  with  our  Natives, 
by  getting  rid  of  them  occasionally,  and  doing  so 
without  hurting  their  feelings.  We  explained  tenderly 
how  much  we  enjoyed  their  company,  sometimes ; 
but  asked  them  to  think,  if  they  were  in  a Foreign 
land  and  had  to  talk  incessantly  in  a Foreign  language, 
whether  they  wouldn’t  like  to  have  part  of  one  day  in 
the  week  to  themselves,  with  their  own  Family,  and 
speaking  their  Mother-Tongue ; and  to  this  they 
heartily  agree.  I fear  I am  regarded  rather  as  a Law 
unto  these  poor  people  around  us  ; but  then,  you  see, 
John  is  the  embodiment  of  a glorious  Gospel ; so 
their  theological  surroundings  are  tolerably  com- 
plete ! 

Another  rule  I fought  for,  after  being  three  years 
on  Aniwa,  was — that  no  one  should  enter  the  Church, 
without  what  appeared  to  me  a decent  covering. 
John  was  unfeignedly  thankful  to  get  them  there 
to  hear  the  Gospel,  in  almost  any  condition ; but 
I maintained  that  we  too  had  a right  to  Church 
privileges,  as  well  as  the  Natives;  and  that  I could 
not  worship  the  Lord  in  His  Sanctuary,  with  prac- 
tically naked  people  stuck  right  in  front  of  us,  nor 
was  it  good  for  our  Children.  So  the  Missi  was  at 
last  induced  to  fire  off  another  of  my  bullets  amongst 
his  “ beloved  Flock.”  He  solemnly  announced  in 
the  Church  Assembly,  that  the  few  who  still  came 
unclothed  would,  in  future,  have  to  put  on  something, 
were  it  only  a fathom  of  calico,  which  they  all  had, 
or  could  easily  secure  by  doing  a little  work ; that, 


'32 


FAMILY  LIFE  AND  CHURCH  LIFE 


a month’s  warning  being  given,  thereafter  no  naked 
or  painted  person  would  be  allowed  to  enter  the 
Church.  There  were  only  three  or  four  Natives  who 
were  in  the  habit  of  coming  unclothed,  and  it  wasn’t 
fair  to  the  others  to  let  them  ride  off  in  that  way, 
and  defy  our  Christian  custom. 

When  the  month  was  up,  and  we  were  assembling 
in  the  Church,  there  slipped  in  a Heathen,  clothed  in 
nothing  but  the  most  startling  war-paint ! I spotted 
our  friend,  and  vowed  he  should  not  escape  the 
Missionary’s  notice  either;  so,  when  John  had  finished 
reading  the  Hymn,  and  looked  across  for  me  to  begin, 
he  found  his  Harmoniumist  leaning  calmly  back 
with  folded  arms.  His  amazed  face  said  as  plainly 
as  possible,  “ What’s  the  row  ?”  I gave  a slight 
inclination  of  the  head  in  the  direction  of  the  painted 
individual;  and  John  at  once  took  action  by  request- 
ing him  to  leave  the  Church,  since  he  had  had  full 
notice  to  quit  this  Heathenism  in  the  House  of  God. 
The  gentleman,  however,  had  no  more  intention  of 
leaving  the  Church  than  I had  of  beginning  the 
Hymn.  It  was  a question  of  which  would  win,  and 
soon  began  to  be  exciting.  Had  I been  “given  to 
betting,”  as  they  say,  I would  have  backed  “our  side” 
to  any  amount ! 

John  repeated  his  request  firmly,  but  very  kindly, 
setting  forth  the  reasonableness  of  such  a regulation ; 
this  was  enforced  by  earnest  whisperings  all  around, 
while  our  young  hero  sat  complacently  grinning,  with 
his  chin  resting  on  his  knees  ! The  Missi  then  began 


“HIS  DIRTY  NAKEDNESS 


•33 


quietly  to  collect  his  books,  saying  that  he  never 
made  a rule  that  he  did  not  mean  to  be  obeyed,  and 
would  therefore  now  leave  the  Church,  and  worship 
with  his  Family  in  the  Mission  House.  That,  how- 
ever, would  not  be  tolerated,  as  the  young  man 
gathered  from  the  ferocious  looks  directed  against 
him  ; and,  on  the  Chief  of  his  district  being  seen  to 
move  with  serious  intentions  of  ejectment,  the  big- 
fellow  swung  out  of  the  building  like  lightning,  carry- 
ing his  dirty  nakedness  with  him,  and  the  Service 
went  on  with  something  of  Christian  seemliness. 

That  same  afternoon,  John  being  at  a preaching 
in  this  man’s  Village,  the  poor  Savage  had  got  one 
side  of  his  face  washed,  and  turned  it  to  the  Mis- 
sionary ; but  he  was  told  to  sit  right  round  and  make 
himself  quite  comfortable,  as  there  were  no  rules  to 
exclude  any  one  from  Open-Air  Services.  To  do 
him  justice,  he  joined  heartily  in  the  laughter  that 
greeted  this  sally  ; and  he  has  become  one  of  the 
very  best  fellows  we  have,  since  coming  off  second 
best  in  this  little  tussle. 

I have  my  Sewing  and  Singing  Classes  on  our 
front  verandah,  which  is  a vast  improvement  for  me, 
there  being  a constant  current  of  air,  which  wafts 
away  the  odour  of  Ethiopia.  It  is  quite  pronounced 
enough  in  the  open  air,  and  was  overpowering  in  the 
School  Room.  I have  used  more  Eau-de-Cologne 
here,  than  I did  before  in  all  my  life  (I  disliked  scent 
in  Civilization),  and  would  have  ruined  my  poor 
Husband  if  I’d  had  to  buy  it;  but  kind  friends,  who 


•34 


FAMILY  LIFE  AND  CHURCH  LIFE 


evidently  knew  better  what  I was  coming  to  than  I 
did  myself,  loaded  me  with  gifts  and  have  kept  me 
supplied  ever  since. 

We  have  had  a rare  influx  of  Missionaries  this 
year,  actually  four  new  ones,  three  from  Nova  Scotia, 
and  one  from  Melbourne,  who  made  a romantic 
marriage  with  Dr.  Geddie’s  daughter  on  Aneityum. 
They  had  plenty  to  do,  at  the  Mission  Conference, 
locating  them  ; and  the  Children  and  I spent  the 
time  with  dear  Mrs.  Watt  at  Kwamera  ; Mrs.  Milne, 
a gem  of  a Missionary’s  wife,  being  also  one  of  the 
visitors.  She  and  Mr.  Milne  happened  to  be  on  a 
visit  to  us,  when  she  came  of  age  ; and  there  was 
great  joking  about  being  independent  of  her  husband 
now  ! 

The  three  weeks  at  Kwamera  just  flew  past.  Every- 
thing was  so  charming,  the  perfection  of  a Mission 
Station  in  all  its  workings.  And  what  a magnificent 
island  is  Tanna,  with  its  majestic  mountains,  rich 
vegetation,  fine  rivers,  and  last,  but  not  least,  its  grand 
old  Volcano — a huge  pillar  of  cloud  by  day  and  of 
fire  by  night  (the  best  Lighthouse  in  the  world,  the 
sailors  say),  and  as  restless  as  the  Ocean,  sending  up 
tons  of  lava  into  the  air  about  every  ten  minutes,  with 
a rumble  that  often  shakes  our  house  even  on  Aniwa! 
The  sea-scape  here  is  a perpetual  study — Kwamera 
being  on  the  weather  side  of  Tanna,  the  breakers  are 
the  grandest  I have  ever  seen.  I wish  I could  describe 
them  as  we  saw  them.  We  used  to  sit  for  hours 
(mind,  we  were  on  Holiday !)  watching  the  majestic 


THE  SPIRIT  OF  GIRLHOOD 


'35 


progress  of  the  mountainous  waves,  as  they  rolled 
obliquely  along  the  reefs,  the  pale  green  deepening 
into  shadow  as  they  curved  round  before  breaking 
with  mighty  roar  into  a sea  of  boiling  surf. 

We  made  a charming  visit,  one  day,  to  a Village 
three  miles  inland.  The  scenery  was  romantic  ; and 
we  chose  to  go  a part  of  our  way  right  through  the 
river,  which  flows  swiftly  and  gently  down  its  broad 
bed,  forming  a lovely  vale  between  towering  heights, 
covered  with  luxuriant  creepers,  ferns,  and  foliage 
down  to  the  water’s  edge.  It  was  such  fun  to  leap 
from  one  great  flat  stone  to  another,  with  the  clear 
water  flowing  all  around  us ; but  we  often  paused 
to  look  up  at  the  grand  heights  above,  and  drink 
in  the  beauty  of  the  scene ; there  was  strange  power, 
too,  in  the  silence  over  all ! Here  and  there,  where 
the  Glen  narrowed,  were  beautiful  waterfalls.  Mrs. 
Watt  and  I got  through  all,  springing  over  the  ground 
like  wild-cats  ; but  Mrs.  Blank  kept  us  in  great  merri- 
ment, accompanying  her  slower  progress  with  a suc- 
cession of  shrieks,  and  frantic  appeals  to  the  Natives 
for  help  ; and,  finally,  she  capped  the  events  of  the 
day  by  tumbling  off  a Tanna  man’s  back  flat  into  the 
river ! The  spirit  ol  girlhood  was  on  us,  and  Mrs. 
Watt  and  I sank  helpless  on  the  nearest  stone,  and 
went  off  into  fits  of  mischievous  laughter. 

A scene  of  a very  different  kind  was  being  enacted, 
that  very  afternoon,  on  the  same  island,  as  we  heard 
a few  days  later  by  letters  from  Port  Resolution.  A 
Traders’  Vessel  had  anchored  there  ; and  the  notorious 


136  • FAMILY  LIFE  AND  CHURCH  LIFE 

Captain  H.  went  tipsy  to  Mrs.  N.’s,  knowing  her 
husband  to  be  absent  at  the  Mission  Conference,  and 
tried  his  best  to  insult  her.  The  Aneityumese  servants 
were  away  cutting  wood,  and  she  fled  to  the  Imrai '■ — 
a Christian  lady  seeking  the  protection  of  the  Savages 
against  her  own  degraded  Countryman  ! They 
guarded  her  well,  and  drove  the  wretch  back  to  his 
boat.  In  rage,  he  declared  that  he  would  return  at 
midnight.  But  the  house,  and  the?  Boat  Landing, 
were  loyally  watched  by  night  and  by  day  ; though 
that  did  not  prevent  Mrs.  N.,  and  her  young  Sister, 
the  bride,  from  being  kept  in  misery  and  terror,  till, 
three  days  after,  the  Vessel  and  its  hateful  Captain 
cleared  out  to  sea. 

Our  return  to  Aniwa  was  a sad  one,  owing  to  dear 
Namakei’s  death,  while  away  at  the  Mission  Confer- 
ence on  Aneityum.  There  was  hardly  a dry  eye, 
when  John  preached  his  Funeral  Sermon  next  Sun- 
day ; and  his  was,  I suppose,  the  largest  Mission 
Funeral  on  record  in  the  New  Hebrides,  the  Captain 
and  the  whole  Synod  having  followed  the  remains 
of  the  Grand  Old  Man  to  their  last  resting-place. 
We  do  so  miss  him  here ; he  was  such  a lovable 
friend ; and  his  passionate  devotion  to  the  “ little 
white  Chief”  was  really  pathetic. 

The  Mission  settlement  that  stirred  our  hearts 
most  was  that  on  Erromanga.  It  is  very  brave  of 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Robertson  to  tackle  that  Martyr  Island, 
all  alone.  We  had  a delightful  visit  from  them  in 
September.  They  came  in  their  boat,  a distance 


ANGELS'  VISITS 


137 


of  over  forty  miles,  and  had  a stormy  and  perilous 
passage ; they  lost  their  rudder,  and,  when  they  should 
have  been  landing  at  the  Mission  Station  toward 
evening,  they  found  themselves  on  the  wrong  side, 
the  weather  side,  of  Aniwa,  and  had  to  battle  with  the 
breakers  the  live-long  night,  rudderless  and  tempest- 
tossed.  Right  thankful  were  they  to  reach  this,  next 
morning,  as  it  was  all  that  Mr.  Robertson  could  do 
to  keep  up  the  courage  of  the  Natives,  and  prevent 
the  boat  from  being  smashed  among  the  reefs.  They 
say  here  that  “ a special  Providence  watches  over 
fools  and  Missionaries  ” — and  we  have  often  much 
reason  to  think  it  true ! 

Those  visits  of  our  Brother  Missionaries  are  truly 
like  Angels’  visits,  in  more  than  in  their  rarity.  It 
is  so  delightful  to  have  intercourse  with  kindred 
spirits  (by  the  way,  does  that  suggest  that  we  are 
Angels?  Well,  let  it!),  and  with  whom  we  have  so 
much  in  common.  We  do  not  by  any  means  “ talk 
shop  ” all  the  time  ; but  it  is  so  uplifting  to  have 
enlightened  converse  about  our  work,  get  the  benefit 
of  each  other’s  experience,  and  compare  the  tradi- 
tions and  legends  of  our  respective  Islands.  During 
one  of  these  visits,  from  the  Watts,  I think,  we 
were  comparing  notes,  and  I called  in  our  Girls  for 
further  information.  To  my  intense  delight,  the 
younger  Girls,  who  had  grown  up  mostly  with  us, 
knew  nothing  at  all  about  them  ; showing  that  our 
teaching  had  really  taken  the  place  of  their  Heathen 
superstitions.  So  we  called  in  some  elderly  Aniwans 


>38 


FAMILY  LIFE  AND  CHURCH  LIFE 


who  immediately  waxed  eloquent,  and  greatly 
interested  us  in  their  traditions.  They  have,  for 
instance,  one  about  the  Flood  ; and  this  not  only 
tallies  strangely  in  some  details  with  the  Biblical 
account,  but,  what  is  more  striking,  it  points  exactly 
the  same  moral,  or  nearly  so. 

You  can  have  no  idea  how  companionable  the 
Natives  are,  when  once  you  can  talk  to  them  freely. 
Their  faces  light  up  with  such  intelligence  ; and  they 
are  eager  both  to  hear  and  to  communicate.  Pictures 
they  are  wonderfully  fond  of ; we  spend  many  an 
hour  explaining  them,  and  can  get  a good  deal  of 
Gospel  truth  into  them,  in  that  way,  without  seeming 
to  preach.  But  they  don’t,  by  any  means,  take 
everything  on  trust.  They  must  be  convinced,  before 
believing  all  you  say.  Once  I described  to  a lot 
of  women  how  water  got  so  cold  in  Britain  that  it 
froze,  and  became  so  solid  and  hard  that  the  people 
ran  about  on  the  top  of  it.  I saw  perfectly  in  their 
looks  that  they  did  not  believe  it,  though  too  respectful 
to  say  so.  It  so  happened  that  the  Day  spring  called 
the  very  next  day  ; and  what  should  Dr.  Geddic 
bring  on  shore,  but  a huge  block  of  ice  ! Some  kind 
friends  in  Melbourne  had  put  a refrigerating  machine 
on  board  ; and  Dr.  Geddie  had  some  ice  prepared 
for  each  Mission  Station,  well  knowing  what  a treat 
it  would  be  to  us,  as  well  as  an  interest  to  the  Natives. 
What  crowds  came  to  examine  it  ! They  touched 
it ; they  howled  wildly  over  their  first  experience  of 
real  freezing  cold;  and  they  eagerly  yet  sorrowfully 


CROOKED  PATHS 


139 


marked  it  melting  away.  I made  the  women  confess 
their  unbelief  of  the  evening  before  ; but  they  added, 
with  pawky  grace  worthy  of  a Scot,  We  did  not  believe 
you  would  lie , Missi  ! We  just  thought  that  somebody 
else  had  told  you  crooked. 

John  has  been  trying  to  make  the  “ crooked  ” paths 
of  the  Aniwans  straight,  shortening  the  distance 
betwixt  us  and  the  Boat  Harbour  by  clearing  a 
direct  road  for  the  Hand  Cart,  instead  of  the  very 
circuitous  one  they  had  been  accustomed  to  travel. 
When,  however,  it  was  finished,  they  simply  howled 
with  disgust  at  the  awful  length  of  it ! It  was  in 
reality  one-third  shorter ; but  simply  because  they 
could  now  see  it  all  at  once,  they  persistently  argued 
that  it  was  ever  so  much  longer,  nor  could  be  con- 
vinced till  Missi  tested  it  by  a walking  match.  He 
preached  a good  practical  sermon  to  them,  next 
Sunday,  about  God’s  tender  wisdom  in  hiding  so 
much  of  our  earthly  future  from  our  view — we 
see  not  all  the  road  we  have  to  travel  in  dust  and 
pain  ! 

Nearly  all  the  Natives  wear  clothing  now.  This 
is  a great  index  of  change  ; for,  in  the  Heathen  state, 
they  are  positively  as  ashamed  at  the  idea  of  wearing 
anything,  as  we  would  be  at  the  idea  of  proposing 
to  go  naked.  But  the  men  have  not  yet  donned  the 
“ nether  ” garments,  as  they  say  they  are  frightened 
for  them  ! There  is  nothing  they  so  much  covet  as 
a warm  blanket  or  bedquilt,  for  they  feel  chilly  at 
night  (I  wish  we  could,  instead  of  feverish !),  and 


140 


FAMILY  LIFE  AND  CHURCH  LIFE 


they  love  to  roll  themselves  up  before  going  to 
sleep. 

One  day,  a dear  child  was  brought  to  us,  evidently 
in  the  last  stages  of  croup.  There  was  not  a moment 
to  be  lost,  in  getting  her  into  the  hottest  bath.  In 
my  eagerness,  I snatched  the  blanket  off  my  own 
bed,  to  keep  in  the  steam  and  to  wrap  round  the 
sufferer.  This,  in  a cooler  moment,  I would  not  have 
done,  as  it  was  my  very  best,  and  one  of  the  fine 
downy  ones  bound  with  ribbon  that  Aunt  E.  gave 
me  as  a wedding  gift.  I would  not  undertake  to 
say,  whether  these  parents  were  more  pleased  about 
the  care  of  the  child,  or  the  possession  of  the  blanket. 
The  sequel  was  characteristic.  A greedy  old  fellow, 
over  six  feet,  with  shoulders  to  match,  presented 
himself  spontaneously  as  a patient,  and  demanded 
a hot  bath  from  the  W\ss\-Jine.  We  laughed,  and 
assured  Taia  that  there  wasn’t  a vessel  big  enough 
to  hold  him,  unless  he  went  into  one  of  the  tanks. 
As  he  still  insisted  on  a bath,  we  began  to  fear  he 
had  gone  crazy  ; but  light  dawned  on  the  method 
of  his  madness,  when  he  ingenuously  added,  “Well, 
if  you  won’t  give  me  the  bath,  the  same  kind 
of  blanket  you  gave  the  child  the  other  day  will 
do!” 

You  would  laugh  to  see  that  great  huge-framed 
Taia — our  Native  orator,  and  right  glad  of  any  decent 
excuse  for  wagging  his  beloved  tongue.  He  rolls  out 
the  sentences  in  a grandiose  style.  He  has  just  to  let 


CHILDHOOD  S BIBLE 


14' 


himself  go  in  delivering  an  oration,  and  you  imme- 
diately see  that  the  Aniwan  language  can  give  scope 
for  elocution  and  relief  to  pent-up  feelings.  Our  own 
little  Boys  seem  to  take  after  Taia,  for  they  grow 
amazingly  eloquent,  gesticulate  at  a great  rate,  and 
act  out  everything  they  narrate — helping  their  English 
talk  with  an  Aniwan  or  Aneityumese  word,  to  enforce 
their  meaning,  which  certainly  colours  brilliantly  what 
they  say. 

We  were  talking,  the  other  evening,  about  the  Last 
Judgment,  and  what  the  Bible  says  about  the  world’s 
being  “ burnt  up.”  Our  little  Frank  interjected, 
“And  won’t  it  Kopuko,  Mamma?”  That  means  to 
“go  off  like  a cannon.”  In  these  circumstances,  his 
main  concern  turned  out  to  be  this,  whether  his 
favourite  wheel-barrow  would  “go  off”  in  the  general 
conflagration ; and  he  argued,  very  decidedly,  that 
in  such  a case  it  was  only  fair  that  he  should  “ get 
a new  one  in  Heaven  ! ” 

But  you  will  see  that  I am  as  weak  as  Mothers 
elsewhere,  when  I assure  you  that  it  charms  me  to 
hear  the  Bible  stories  we  have  taught  them  re-presented 
to  us  in  the  language  and  in  the  ideas  of  childhood. 
One  day,  after  talking  about  our  Lord’s  death  and 
burial,  little  F.  said  so  earnestly,  “ But  He  vised  again, 
Mamma  ; ’cause  He  said  to  Thomson  (?  Thomas), 
Look  what  the  naughty  peoples  did  to  Me ! ” — and 
he  pointed  to  his  hands,  with  a suggestive  expression 
in  his  eyes. 


142 


FAMILY  LIFE  AND  CHURCH  LIFE 


I fear  I could  go  on  about  these  things  ad  libitum  ; 
but,  fortunately  for  you,  my  time  is  not  inexhaustible, 
though  your  loving  patience  may  be.  And  so,  as 
our  Natives  would  say,  My  word  is  ended. 

Ever  affectionately  yours, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 


X 

THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD 
(to  the  family  circle) 

Port  Jackson,  Sydney  Harbour, 
September  29 t/i,  I S73. 

My  dearest  Mother,  Brothers,  and  Sisters, — 
I address  you  all,  as  this  is  to  be  the  “ big  ” letter, 
and  to  go  the  rounds  from  Adelaide. 

We  arrived  here  last  night,  have  all  packed,  and  are 
ready  to  go  ashore.  John  is  much  better,  and  every- 
body declares  he  will  soon  be  able  to  dispense  with 
both  his  crutches,  or  rather  sticks  ! 

I suppose  I had  better  go  back  and  narrate  things 
in  order  ; but  I hardly  know  where  to  begin  ; 
especially  as  I did  not  get  letters  written  for  last 
December,  when  the  dear  old  Dayspring  left  us,  and 
got  wrecked  on  Aneityum,  four  or  five  days  after- 
wards. John  and  the  boys,  Bob  and  Fred,  had  been 
with  her  in  the  trip  North,  never  dreaming  it  was  to 
be  her  last  voyage  round  our  Islands. 

While  they  were  away  from  us,  we  had  quite  an 
exciting  time,  one  way  and  another.  For  one  thing, 
there  was  a welcome  visit  from  Mr.  F.  A.  Campbell 

•43 


144  THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD 


(son  of  the  Minister  at  Geelong),  who  came  down  in 
the  Dayspring  for  his  health,  and  stayed  with  us  a 
fortnight,  before  going  to  the  Watts  at  the  beginning 
of  the  Season  ; and,  as  John  had  to  go  in  the  Vessel 
on  “ Deputation  work,”  we  begged  of  the  Watts  to 
accompany  him  over  here,  since  the  Natives  would 
not  have  thought  it  proper  for  me  to  receive  him 
alone  ! So  they  all  came  in  Mr.  Watt’s  boat,  towed 
across  by  a wee  Trading  Steamer,  which  was  subse- 
quently smashed  to  pieces  in  the  hurricane.  We  all 
enjoyed  ourselves  so  much  ; rather  too  much,  for  my 
correspondence  fell  behind.  I was  so  tempted  to  chat 
endlessly  with  dear  Mrs.  Watt,  knowing  that  I had 
the  whole  year  round  to  write  letters,  and  so  seldom 
a lady  visitor  to  enliven  our  solitude.  Mr.  Campbell 
is  fond  of  music  ; and  so  we  had  the  old  harmonium 
in  from  the  Church,  and  he  brought  music  out  of  it 
indeed.  He  copied  also  my  painting  of  the  Day- 
spring,  and  made  some  fine  drawings  of  island 
scenery,  to  be  reproduced  in  illustrating  a volume  of 
his  tour,  which  he  intends  to  publish  on  his  return. 
Altogether,  we  spent  a very  pleasant  fortnight,  which 
would  indeed  have  been  perfect,  if  only  John  had 
been  at  home. 

Again,  just  before  these  visitors  came,  Litsi  had  her 
first-born  son  and  heir,  which  put  us  all  here  into  a 
fever  of  excitement,  she  being  such  a universal 
favourite,  and  having  been  too  weak  to  walk  for 
months  before.  I was,  of  course,  apprehensive  of  the 
consequences.  It  proved  to  be  a very  lingering  affair  ; 


DOMESTIC  HUMOURS 


MS 


and  there  was  a good  deal  of  extemporized  tele 
graphing  betwixt  her  house  and  ours,  a five  minutes’ 
walk  ; and  not  a little  dodging  to  keep  all  quiet  from 
the  Native  Boys,  and  yet  get  the  Cook  to  keep  up 
the  fire  and  hot  water  after  tea.  When  I told  him 
that  I expected  the  boat  (Mr.  Watt’s)  would  come 
over  in  such  fine  moonlight,  though  I really  did 
expect  it,  the  Girls  rushed  out  to  the  verandah  to  let 
off  steam  ! Of  course,  it  would  be  enough  to  tell  a 
civilized  servant  that  you  required  hot  water  kept, 
but  our  Natives  would  open  their  eyes  very  wide  and 
ask,  What  for  ? And  as,  in  the  circumstances,  I 
could  not  say  what  it  was  for — you  know  it  would 
ruin  any  fellow’s  character  here  for  life  to  be  thought 
so  weak  as  to  help  a woman — the  boat  served  as  a 
good  excuse  and  a true  one,  for  we  had  all  been 
looking  for  it  the  evening  before.  But  during  my 
Writing  Class,  which  I have  in  the  evenings  for  those 
Natives  on  the  Mission  Premises  who  can’t  go  to 
John’s  morning  School,  I had  very  hard  work  to  keep 
grave,  while  the  Girls  kept  on  asking,  every  now  and 
again,  with  a mischievous  twinkle  in  their  black  eyes, 
if  the.  boat  had  arrived! 

I kept  away  from  the  seat  of  war,  though  sundry 
hints  reached  me  that  my  presence  there  would  be 
very  acceptable ; and  I contented  myself  with  sending 
warm  drinks.  But,  in  the  middle  of  the  prayer  at 
Worship,  when  one  of  the  Head  Boys  was  praying, 
poor  Litsi’s  husband,  a great  fellow  of  over  six  feet, 
came  tapping  at  the  window  of  the  next  room,  and 

IO 


146  THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD 


pled  with  me  to  go  to  Litsi  or  she  would  die ! There 
was  nothing  for  it  but  to  slip  off  with  him,  though 
I would  rather  have  gone  ten  miles  the  other  way. 
I found  Litsi  well  looked  after  by  her  female  friends, 
and  bantered  her  about  having  a fine  young  son  when 
she  said  she  was  going  to  die,  adding,  for  her  encour- 
agement, that  I said  the  same  thing  myself  before 
Bob  was  born.  Suddenly,  a man’s  voice  close  by  me 
said  in  very  interested  tones,  “Did  you,  Missi?”  I 
could  have  annihilated  the  fellow,  and,  you  may 
depend  on  it,  I was  rather  more  scarce  of  my  experi- 
ences, with  a male  audience  so  unexpectedly  near. 
I saw  there  was  nothing  which  I could  really  do  for 
Litsi ; and,  being  a little  nervous,  I suddenly  remem- 
bered that  no  one  else  could  be  trusted  to  make  the 
gruel  at  the  Mission  House  for  her.  But  she  persisted, 
Pray  first,  Missi! — and,  seizing  my  hand,  affection- 
ately held  it  all  the  time. 

Walking  back  in  the  clear  moonlight,  thinking 
anxiously  and  praying  for  dear  Litsi,  I heard  shouts  of 
merriment  from  our  half-open  windows,  and  some  one 
stalking  out  to  the  back,  as  if  he  would  knock  the 
floor  through  at  every  step.  I hastened  in,  and  found 
Telmonoutha,  the  Boy  who  had  prayed  at  Worship, 
disappearing  through  the  pantry-door  and  the  Girls 
leaning  over  the  table  in  fits  of  laughter.  They  told 
me  that  he  had  uttered  a very  long  and  a very 
beautiful  prayer  (oh,  how  those  Boys’  prayers  during 
John’s  absence  used  to  bring  the  tears  to  my  eyes, 
the  way  they  asked  God  to  let  nothing  in  the  seas 


LITSI’S  SON 


147 


hurt  their  Missi,  and  nothing  on  the  land  hurt  him, 
etc.,  etc. !),  but  that  Telmonoutha  was  awfully  enraged 
for  having  made  it  all  for  “ these  black-hearted  Girls,” 
as  he  contemptuously  called  them,  and  for  not  letting 
him  know  that  I had  gone ! They  demanded,  in 
turn,  how  they  could  have  let  him  know  while  he  was 
praying  ; and,  having  no  answer  ready,  he  strode  out 
in  bursting  indignation. 

After  another  visit  or  two  to  Litsi,  her  uncle  and 
aunt  came  rushing  to  tell  me  that  her  baby  was  born, 
and  was  a Boy ! I uttered  a very  fervent  “ Thank 
God,”  to  which  Kalangi,  the  uncle,  responded  so 
earnestly,  “ O Missi,  that’s  the  very  thing  I said 
myself — for,  you  know,  it  might  have  been  a Girl!" 
I let  them  know  pretty  roundly  that  it  was  not  the 
gender  I was  thankful  for  ; and  then  ran  back  to  Litsi 
whom  I found  sitting  clasping  her  first-born,  as  if  she 
would  never  let  him  go  ; and  greeting*  indignantly 
at  the  remembrance  of  her  sorrows,  like  a bairn  after 
a thrashing.  Poor  Litsi,  she  had  to  lay  her  Child  in 
the  grave,  three  months  after,  as  sweet  and  lovely 
a Child  as  mother  ever  loved ; and,  next  Sabbath 
thereafter,  at  the  Communion,  the  father  looked  so 
broken-hearted,  and  wore  so  pale  a face,  that  I can 
never  forget  him. 

This  was  in  the  middle  of  February;  but  I have 
not  told  you  of  the  Hurricane  on  January  6th.  Of 
course,  you  have  all  heard  about  the  dear  little  Day- 


Scotticc  for  weepvig. 


148  THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD 


spring  having  been  lost  in  it ; and  some  Missionary 
will  explain  to  you  all  about  the  atmosphere,  the 
barometer,  etc.,  so  I shall  limit  myself  to  how  we  got 
on  in  Aniwa.  John  and  the  Boys  had  just  returned. 
The  Dayspring  had  taken  off  our  visitors  a few  days 
before,  along  with  our  yearly  order  and  mail,  and  we 
had  enjoyed  a quiet  Sabbath  all  together  again.  The 
Boys  and  Girls  had  been  looking  over  all  sorts  of 
British  Workman , Pictorial  News,  etc.,  while  John 
and  I explained  them,  and  all  went  off  to  bed,  thinking 
of  anything  but  hurricanes,  our  barometer  having 
been  broken  some  time  before,  and  had  left  books 
and  everything  lying  about.  We  generally  make 
special  preparation  for  threatened  hurricanes,  by 
tying  down  thatch,  propping  walls,  and  so  forth  ; but 
we  had  not  begun  this  year,  as  hurricanes  were  never 
known  before  January  12th,  and  so  we  hoped  for 
secure  and  peaceful  sleep. 

Shortly  after  we  had  retired,  the  wind  began  to  rise, 
and  continued  to  rise  very  high  ; and,  by  midnight, 
we  resolved  to  escape  from  the  Mission  House.  It 
was  shaking  ominously,  the  roof  gave  signs  of  falling 
in,  and  so  we  all  took  refuge  in  the  Cellar,  the  Girls 
carrying  blankets  with  them,  and  a large  mattress  for 
the  Children.  What  an  exciting  journey  that  was, 
out  at  the  Study  door  and  down  the  steps  to  the 
Cellar,  for  we  expected  to  be  crushed  to  pieces  by 
something  or  other  falling,  and  we  had  to  shout  into 
each  other’s  ears,  the  noise  of  the  wind  was  so 
deafening  ! But  we  felt  comparatively  snug,  when 


A GRAND  HURRICANE 


t49 


we  got  into  the  Cellar  and  had  a lamp  lit  and  placed 
in  a sheltered  corner,  hearing  the  wind  roaring 
outside  like  distant  thunder.  Litsi  with  her  Baby, 
then  three  weeks  old,  and  a lot  of  people  took  refuge 
with  us ; while  John  kept  me  in  painful  suspense, 
taking  down  pictures,  securing  doors  and  windows, 
and  trying  to  cover  his  precious  bookcases  with 
blankets  ; but  even  he  was  forced  to  desist,  at  the 
risk  of  life.  The  Children,  realizing  no  danger,  were 
delighted  at  the  novelty ; and  I myself  felt  rather 
jolly  too,  when  we  got  John  safely  beside  us  ; and 
then  the  Natives  began  spinning  yarns  about  the 
last  hurricane  they  remembered,  while  the  door  was 
being  opened,  now  and  again,  to  admit  some  poor 
drenched  character,  with  his  head  buried  between  his 
shoulders,  and  a roaring  gust  of  wind  that  deafened 
us  all  for  the  moment,  or  letting  some  one  out  to 
reconnoitre. 

About  four  o’clock,  John  took  me  up  from  the 
Cellar  to  have  a look  at  the  hurricane,  and  really  it 
was  appallingly  grand  ! The  spray  dashed  blindingly 
in  our  faces,  a quarter  of  a mile  distant  from  the  sea. 
Trees  and  branches  were  lying  around,  piled  up  in 
mountains,  and  the  tall  cocoanuts  were  swinging  like 
slender  willows  before  the  awful  gale.  But  the  most 
disagreeable  experience  of  all  was  in  the  cold  grey 
morning  light,  when  we  put  out  the  Cellar  lamps,  and 
crawled  up  to  our  house.  The  wind  had  spent  its 
fury,  but  its  work  had  been  effectually  accomplished. 
Everything  in  our  dear  Home  was  soaking  wet,  and 


150  THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CIIILD 


covered  inches  thick  with  thatch  and  all  imaginable 
rubbish.  Windows  were  smashed  in  with  branches 
of  trees,  hurled  against  them  ; and  there  was  not 
one  spot  within  the  whole  premises  on  which  you 
could  sit. 

I set  to  work,  at  once,  with  my  Girls,  and  got  the 
Dining-Room  made  habitable.  We  said  to  Cook 
that  we  would  not  mind  for  breakfast  ; and  that,  if 
they  could  only  manage  to  milk  the  goats,  we  would 
just  take  bread  and  milk  ; as  the  Cook-House  door 
had  been  blockaded,  and  not  a bit  of  dry  wood  could 
be  found  anywhere.  But  hardly  had  we  finished  this 
apology  when  the  good  soul  appeared  with  the  coffee- 
pot steaming  ; so  we  had  a hot  breakfast  after  all, 
and  were  all  greatly  comforted. 

After  this,  I went  on  to  the  front  verandah  to  have 
a look  at  the  debris  outside,  and  never  had  I witnessed 
such  a scene  of  devastation, — great  trees  torn  up  by 
the  roots  ; bananas  and  fences  laid  level  with  the 
ground  ; hardly  a green  leaf  anywhere  to  be  seen, 
the  salt  spray  having  browned  everything,  and  caused 
them  to  droop  ; and  scarcely  a yard  of  clear  space 
anywhere  to  walk  upon.  One  sight,  however,  made 
me  clap  my  hands  with  delight  ; for  there,  in  the 
near  distance,  the  tremendous  waves  were  dashing  on 
the  reef,  and  I had  a Sea- View  at  last  ! 

We  had  got  an  apology  for  one  before,  but  it  was 
soon  hidden  again.  I got  it  enlarged  afterwards, 
by  appealing  to  the  owners  of  that  spot  to  continue 
the  work  of  the  hurricane  by  levelling  a few  more 


THE  " PARAGON 


trees,  and  so  giving  me  a sight  of  the  Dayspring  when 
she  passed;  for  I was  always  so  busy,  getting  food 
ready  for  the  expected  visitors,  that  I had  no  time 
to  run  with  the  rest  to  see  the  Ship,  when  the  cry 
Sail  0 ! gladdened  our  ears.  I made  my  appeal  to 
the  man  whom  I considered  the  softest  ; but  he  was 
rather  obtuse,  until  I hinted  that 
there  would  be  good  pay  for  every 
tree  cut  down.  Then  he  under- 
stood all  my  sentiments  thoroughly, 
and  loudly  declared  that  it  was  a 
shame  that  Missi  the  Woman  could 
not  see  her  own  Vessel,  when  she 
was  working  for  them  all  the  year 
round  ; but  that  it  would  not  be 
his  fault,  if  she  did  not  get  a sight 
of  it  very  soon  ! Others  followed, 
when  they  saw  what  Taia  got. 

About  forty  trees,  I think,  were 
cut  down.  So  that  we  had  the 
first  view  of  the  Paragon  from  our 
own  verandah ; and  we  see  the 
sun  setting  there  in  glory,  from  April  till  the  end 
of  July. 

John  was  not  at  all  ambitious  of  the  view  of  the 
Paragoft,  and  had  often  assured  us  that,  if  the 
Dayspring  were  in  Aneityum  Harbour  during  that 
hurricane,  we  need  never  expect  to  see  her,  as  nothing 
could  save  her  (which,  alas,  proved  to  be  the  case  !), 
but  that  if  she  were  in  the  open  sea  there  might  be 


THE  SECOND  tl  DAY- 
SPRING.” 


152  THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD 

a chance.  The  Natives,  however,  all  had  the  firm 
idea  that  the  Vessel  of  the  Worship  could  never  go 
down  ; and  I too  hoped  with  them,  till  we  heard  by 
Mr.  Watt’s  boat,  on  the  last  day  of  February,  that 
it  had  during  the  hurricane  gone  on  the  reef  in 
Aneityum  Harbour.  Our  Natives  all  cried  about  it 
like  children  for  weeks  on  end,  and  they  often  take 
fits  of  doing  so  since  ; while  my  Girls  went  to  the 
Study  and  wailed  for  a whole  evening  before  the 
photo  of  it  hanging  there,  and  this  they  have  kept 
up,  going  periodically.  I had  great  difficulty  in 
taking  in  the  sad  news,  and  John  was  distressingly 
sad.  The  Dayspring  had  become  part  and  parcel  of 
ourselves,  and  none  of  us  could  imagine  the  New 
Hebrides  Mission  without  its  little  Ship — “ to  wait  on 
Him,”  and  do  His  work  still  as  of  old.  Still,  even 
in  this  “ severity  ” there  mingled  “ goodness  ” ; for  it 
could  never  have  been  wrecked  at  a better  place  or 
time.  All  were  saved,  and  our  mail  too  ; besides,  she 
was  going  for  provisions,  instead  of  returning  full  of 
them,  which  would  have  made  a mighty  difference  to 
us  all. 

By  the  way,  we  had  our  first  appearance  of  a Home 
Spring,  after  the  hurricane  ; for,  when  all  the  dead 
leaves  and  branches  were  cleared  away  and  pruned, 
everything  began  to  bud— so  refreshing  and  Home- 
like, after  the  perpetual  green  of  these  Isles.  I do 
not  know,  also,  whether  the  greater  exposure  from 
the  want  of  trees  made  us  more  susceptible  of  cold  ; 
but,  certain  it  is,  we  have  since  all  suffered  severely 


A TERRIBLE  EARTHQUAKE 


153 


from  ague  and  fever,  before  comparatively  unknown 
here.  Several  times,  before  his  attack  of  sciatica, 
dear  John  was  raving  with  delirium,  while  the  hot  fit 
of  the  ague  was  on  him.  Nearly  all  the  Natives,  too, 
were  ill,  and  our  Quinine  went  “ like  snow  off  a 
dyke.” 

But  our  experiences  arc  not  exhausted  yet.  We 
had  a terrible  Earthquake  on  the  first  evening  of 
February,  nearly  a month  after  the  hurricane. 
There  can  be  no  upturn  in  Nature  so  awful  as  an 
earthquake.  The  hurricane  was  nothing  to  it,  in  the 
feeling,  though  in  our  case  much  more  serious  in  the 
consequences  ; for  the  earthquake  did  nothing  worse 
that  I heard  of  than  knock  down  the  chimney  of 
Mr.  Inglis’s  Cook-House,  though  it  shook  all  our 
Islands.  We  had  just  retired  to  bed,  very  exhausted, 
and  leaving  the  Boys  and  Girls  to  finish  their  copies 
in  the  Dining-Room  ; when,  suddenly,  the  whole 
house  began  swaying  from  side  to  side,  and  the  floor 
heaved  below  us  for  fully  two  minutes.  John  sprang 
out  of  bed  at  the  first  movement,  but  I,  brave  woman 
that  I was,  held  on  to  him  like  a vice,  so  that  he  could 
not  move  to  do  anything!  The  Natives  rushed  in 
upon  us  without  ceremony,  and  we  could  hear  others 
shouting  from  their  houses.  One  of  the  Boys,  who 
was  in  the  act  of  writing,  determined  to  finish  his 
letter,  but  the  motion  sent  the  pen  sprawling  across 
all  his  copy.  Little  Litsi,  big  Litsi’s  cousin,  and  a 
dear  child,  had  the  presence  of  mind  to  seize  the  lamp 
as  it  was  falling.  John,  as  he  was  held  a prisoner 


154  THE  shipwreck  and  the  angel-child 


himself,  directed  the  Natives  to  open  the  windows — 
always  the  first  thing  to  be  done,  for  fear  of  them 
being  jammed  up  and  we  unable  to  escape ! We 
really  expected  the  Judgment  Day  to  follow  ; but  our 
little  lambs  slept  calmly  through  it  all. 

Oh,  how  often,  in  our  last  Hot  Season’s  experiences, 
have  I thought  of  Elijah  and  the  great  wind,  but  the 
Lord  was  not  in  the  wind,  and  the  earthquake,  but  the 
Lord  was  not  in  the  earthquake,  for  we  too  were  to 
hear  the  still  small  voice  in  another  way  ! This  brings 
me  to  the  subject  that  is  ever  uppermost  in  my  heart, 
and  which  I felt  ought  to  be  written  about  first  of  all 
when  I sat  down  ; but  I would  fain  pass  over  it  now, 
for  it  opens  the  wound  afresh,  which  seems  as  if  it 
never  would  quite  heal  here  below. 

Our  Angel-Child  was  given  to  us  on  March  28th, 
and  oh,  what  joy  she  brought  to  the  whole  household  ! 
We  thought  Frank  would  have  kissed  her  to  pieces  in 
his  delight,  and  none  of  us  ever  saw  such  a beautiful 
Child.  I so  wish  you  could  all  have  seen  her,  for 
anything  I can  say  now  will  very  naturally  be  attri- 
buted to  our  sacred  remembrances.  And  yet  we 
wondered  at  her  beauty,  when  no  one  dreamt  of  her 
being  taken,  as  she  seemed  the  strongest  of  them  all. 
We  had  great  joking  about  who  she  got  it  from  ; 
and  bantering  each  other  about  her  very  wee  mouth, 
which  seemed  buried  in  her  fat  cheeks.  Everything 
seemed  to  go  on  nicely  ; and  though  we  were  both 
very  weak,  I had  arranged  accordingly,  and  got  a 
Teacher’s  wife  to  come  for  a month,  and  had  everything 


STRUCK  DOWN  IN  AGONY 


155 


in  order,  not  omitting,  of  course,  many  lectures  to  our 
Girls,  as  to  keeping  true  to  their  posts,  etc. 

On  that  Saturday  forenoon — the  last,  I fear,  of 
our  bright  days  on  Aniwa — we  were  congratulating 
ourselves  on  the  quiet  rest  we  were  having,  after  the 
advent  and  the  excitement  of  the  previous  day.  John 
was  lying  on  the  sofa,  with  blankets  round  him,  trying 
to  stave  off  the  fever  and  ague,  and  getting  a rest 
after  all  his  trotting  about  and  anxiety  ; and  the  cause 
of  it  all  was  lying  peacefully  in  her  nurse’s  arms,  being 
told  what  a wonderful  little  woman  she  was.  The 
house  itself  looked  like  a new  pin,  as  I had  stopped 
my  Sewing  Class  nearly  a fortnight  before  to  get 
through  with  the  great  annual  cleaning ; and  what 
a cleaning  that  was!  I was  not  allowed  to  do  any- 
thing in  it,  having  suffered  from  haemorrhage  all  the 
Hot  Season  ; so  I sat,  and  tatted , and  directed — only 
putting  to  my  hand  when  my  careful  little  man  was 
out  of  the  way. 

He  himself,  indeed,  had  far  more  to  do  than  he 
ought ; and,  that  very  Saturday  night,  he  was  struck 
down  in  the  most  awful  agony,  in  an  instant ; but, 
as  I got  a fright  about  something  a few  minutes  after 
— or,  just  let  me  explain  what  the  something  was. 
A great  ugly  rat  fell  on  the  top  of  my  bed,  from  the 
thatch,  and,  knowing  that  that  was  enough  at  any  time 
to  drive  me  frantic,  he  sprang  up  and  killed  it.  That 
was  his  last  action  for  weeks — not  a very  sublime 
effort,  if  he  had  died  in  the  succeeding  illness ; and 
the  exertion  did  him  very  great  harm,  for  he  was 


156  THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD 

unable  to  get  back  to  his  couch  for  several  minutes, 
and  stood  holding  on  to  the  corner  of  my  bed,  his 
face  perfectly  livid  with  excruciating  agony.  He  did 
get  to  the  sofa,  somehow  ; but  the  groans,  which  he 
could  not  suppress,  were  heart-rending;  and  there  he 
lay,  without  daring  to  move  one  inch,  for  two  full 
days.  At  the  end  of  that  time,  one  of  the  Native 
Teachers  tried  to  get  him  undressed  ; but,  though  he 
was  kindness  itself,  his  movements  suggested  the  idea 
of  a bull  in  a China  Shop,  so  I did  not  press  him  into 
service  again  ! 

What  we  would  have  done  without  Bob,  I know 
not ; for  he  was  a perfect  treasure  for  attentiveness 
to  his  Papa,  till  I was  able  to  be  up  again.  That 
night  he  took  ill,  I thought  we  were  all  going  to  die  ; 
for  I got  into  such  a fever  of  nervous  excitement, 
I really  felt  the  blood  coursing  along  my  veins,  while 
my  heart  beat  so  wildly  that  I thought  it  must  soon 
burst  in  twain.  I would  have  given  anything  for 
some  white  person  to  come  and  take  care  of  us.  But, 
in  the  midst  of  all,  I felt  that  God  would  watch  over 
us ; and  I prayed  for  a quiet  mind.  I resolutely  set 
myself  to  look  at  the  bright  side  only  ; and,  to  aid  me 
in  this,  I counted  over  my  blessings,  one  by  one,  like 
a child,  and,  as  I remember,  Lena  (Helena  Elizabeth 
Whitccross,  but  Lena  was  the  pet  name)  came  in  as 
one  of  the  biggest  and  sweetest ! 

Next  morning,  Sabbath,  I felt  delightfully  calm, 
and  was  enabled  to  become  comforter  to  my  dear 
Husband,  who  was  still  in  awful  suffering.  The 


A FATAL  CHILL 


157 


Native  Teachers  conducted  the  Worship— that  being 
the  first  Sunday  that  John  had  been  absent  from 
Church,  on  Aniwa,  unless  when  from  Home  altogether  ; 
and  he  did  not  get  back  to  it  for  ten  long  weary  weeks. 
So  I set  myself  to  what  appeared  to  me  then  a most 
formidable  undertaking,  the  washing  and  dressing 
of  my  Baby ; and,  propped  up  with  pillows,  I got 
through  with  the  help  of  the  Natives,  without  the 
little  lamb  crying  at  all,  which  was  considered  quite 
a triumph  ! My  Girls  too  were  very  kind  and  atten- 
tive, and  seemed  suddenly  transformed  into  old 
women  ; they  brought  in  our  meals,  and  super- 
intended our  Children  in  the  Dining-Room  so  nicely, 
making  Bob  sit  in  his  Papa’s  chair  and  “ ask  the 
blessing.”  Truly  God  “stayeth  His  rough  wind  in 
the  day  of  His  east  wind”  ; but  the  worst  was  yet 
to  come,  and  we  had  to  part  from  our  newly-found 
treasure,  on  the  sixth  day  after  she  was  born. 

On  the  day  before  that,  the  Tuesday,  I fainted 
while  washing  the  dear  Baby  ; and  we  think  she  must 
have  then  caught  her  fatal  cold,  for  she  was  exposed, 
while  poor  John  from  his  helpless  couch  was  directing 
the  Natives  how  to  bring  me  round  ; and  that  night 
she  refused  the  breast.  I thought  her  mouth  was 
sore  ; and,  after  a great  deal  of  bungling  with  the 
Natives,  they  brought  me  the  borax  and  honey,  with 
which  I rubbed  her  mouth.  I thought  my  heart 
would  have  broken,  about  a fortnight  after,  when 
I found  the  paper  of  borax  as  I was  tidying  up  the 


room  ! 


158  THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD 

Towards  morning,  we  heard  a stifled  sound  through 
her  nose  ; and  John,  forgetting  his  pain,  struggled 
on  to  his  elbow,  and  heated  water  in  the  spirit  lamp, 
while  I roused  the  Natives  to  prepare  a hot  bath.  I 
wrapped  her  in  flannel  after  it,  and  did  everything 
we  could  think  of,  fondly  hoping  she  would  soon  be 
all  right,  as  it  evidently  was  not  croup,  being  all  in 
the  head.  John  feared  greatly  from  the  first,  though 
he  did  not  tell  me,  alarmed  by  her  stoutness.  I got 
her  to  take  her  natural  nourishment,  and  felt  so 
delighted,  the  last  time  I fed  her  in  the  afternoon, 
that  she  took  more  than  she  had  done  that  day. 
She  looked  about  her  so  peacefully,  and  opened  her 
dark  blue  eyes  wider  than  ever  I had  seen  them  ; but 
I told  her  Papa  that  her  features  were  getting  a 
pinched  look.  He  said  that  was  not  to  be  wondered 
at,  as  she  had  taken  so  little  food  during  the  last 
twenty- four  hours.  I just  thought  that  might  be  so, 
as  I could  not  see  plainly  in  the  darkened  room  ; and 
I sat  with  her  a while  on  my  knee,  before  giving  her 
to  the  nurse. 

About  half  an  hour  afterwards,  they  brought  in 
our  tea  ; but  I put  mine  to  a side,  saying,  “ I’ll  feed 
my  Baby  first.”  I took  her  from  Nurse  Williang’s 
arms,  who  had  her  in  a snug  corner  at  the  side  of 
my  bed  ; but,  oh,  the  cold  chill  that  went  to  my  heart 
the  first  look  I got  at  her  face ! There  is  a look 
about  death,  that  is  not  to  be  mistaken  ; and  it 
almost  made  my  own  heart  stand  still,  before  I could 
believe  it  true.  The  eyes  were  shut,  and  the  little 


A DEATH-KNELL 


159 


mouth  open,  and  no  sound  when  I put  my  ear  close. 
In  an  agony,  I felt  for  the  little  heart,  for  the  skin 
was  burning  hot,  and  I could  not  believe  that  the 
life  had  gone  ; but  all  was  so  still  ! I looked  twice 
at  Williang,  being  unable  to  utter  a word  ; but  she 
was  watching  me  with  such  mournful  eyes ; and, 
when  I clutched  her  arm,  she  sank  down  on  her 
knees,  crying,  I know  it,  M is  si,  I know  it ! She  gave 
two  sighs  and  died  just  before  you  took  her. 

What  a death-knell  that  sounded  in  my  heart 
But,  even  then,  I could  not  give  up  hope,  and  tried  her 
with  a few  drops  of  milk.  That  was  enough — it  was 
like  dropping  it  into  an  empty  cup.  How  the  sounds 
around  me  struck  on  my  ear,  even  in  that  anguished 
moment,  as  being  so  unlike  such  a time ! The 
Children  were  shouting  and  laughing  on  the  verandah, 
the  Girls  singing  about  the  house  ; and  John,  feeling 
a little  relieved,  was  talking  carelessly  to  a Native 
Teacher  ; while  I was  trying  to  realize,  and  all  in 
one  dread  moment,  that  my  Child  was  actually  dead. 
I took  a few  instants  to  follow  her  little  Spirit  into 
the  Unknown  Land,  gave  an  inward  cry  for  strength, 
and  then  began  to  break  the  news  to  John,  in  his 
helplessness,  as  gently  as  I could.  It  was  truly  a 
night  of  anguish.  I could  have  borne  it  better,  could 
I have  had  a clasp  of  my  dear  Husband’s  hand.  But 
it  was  a blessing  that  he  was  at  least  in  the  same 
room  ; for  his  prayers,  and  his  words  of  comfort, 
were  most  precious  to  my  soul. 

The  Children  cried  themselves  sick  ; and  I envied 


160  THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD 


them,  poor  things,  for  I could  get  no  tears  to  come  ! 
I thought  not  then  of  my  own  loss ; but  felt  as  if 
I had  let  my  Child  go  away  alone,  out  into  the  Dark, 
where  I could  not  follow  her.  Perhaps  it  was  as  well 
that  I had  no  time  to  indulge  such  thoughts  ; for  I 
had  to  rack  my  brain  to  find  out  how,  in  the  circum- 
stances, we  could  get  her  decently  buried.  We  might 
as  well  have  asked  any  of  the  Natives  to  make  a Ship, 
as  to  make  a Coffin.  So,  at  grey  daylight,  Bob  took 
one  of  the  Teachers  away  to  the  empty  box-house,  to 
look  for  one  suitable  ; but  Fred  brought  his  clothes 
box  that  his  Papa  had  made  him  ; and,  as  it  was  the 
thing  above  all  others  that  he  valued,  I liked  to  see 
him  give  it  up  to  his  little  silent  Sister.  Bob  had 
given  his  before  for  her  little  outfit. 

The  Church  Members  and  the  Natives  around  all 
came  to  the  funeral,  dressed  in  their  best,  and  were 
let  in  to  near  the  Grave  by  a side  gate,  as  we  sent 
word  that  we  were  both  too  weak  to  speak  to  them. 
We  had  prayers  in  our  room,  before  the  precious 
remains  were  carried  out.  And  then,  for  the  first 
time,  after  all  my  matter-of-fact  planning  and  arrang- 
ing— even  to  telling  the  man  how  to  dig  the  Grave — 
my  natural  feelings  would  assert  themselves,  and  I 
had  to  get  back  the  little  Coffin  into  my  bed  ! The 
Native  Teacher  laid  it  at  my  side,  and  fell  down  on 
his  knees  sobbing;  while  I got  nearer  to  my  God 
over  my  Child’s  lifeless  body  than  ever  I had  done 
before  in  all  my  life. 

Poor  P'red  was  exhausted  with  sheer  grief ; and 


OPENING  THE  GATES 


161 


when  I begged  him  to  go  with  Bob  to  his  little  Sister’s 
funeral,  that  some  of  her  own  might  be  there,  he 
sobbed  out,  “ Mamma,  my  knees  won’t  carry  me ! ” 
He  brightened  up,  however,  and  went,  when  he  heard 
it  was  in  our  own  premises — a lovely  quiet  corner, 
not  seen  from  any  approach  to  the  house,  nor  indeed 
till  you  go  up  to  it.  We  distinctly  heard  the  Singing 
at  the  Service  over  the  Grave,  the  Hymns  being  our 
translations  of  “There  is  a Happy  Land”  and  “Oh, 
may  we  stand  before  the  Lamb.” 

What  a desolate  Home,  and  what  desolate  Hearts, 
the  little  unconscious  Lamb  left  behind  her,  and  how 
effectually  she  had  established  herself  in  our  love, 
without  ever  trying  to  do  it ! I kept  thinking  about 
the  German  Pastor,  and  that  story  of  the  Parents  who 
would  not  go  into  the  fold,  till  their  Lamb  was  taken 
and  put  there  first ; and,  though  I hope  I have  been 
there  already,  yet  our  Lena  constrained  us  to  think  of 
the  World  Unseen,  in  a way  that  I,  at  least,  had 
never  done  before.  It  all  came  on  us  so  suddenly, 
illness  and  death  ; and  oh,  it  is  truly  the  King  of 
Terrors — that  mighty  Power,  so  silently  doing  its 
awful  work  by  our  very  side,  and  we  knowing  it  not 
till  our  little  treasure  was  gone ! 

I felt  sometimes  as  if  I did  not  know  where  she 
had  gone — for  awful  doubts  assailed  me  in  regard 
to  Infant  Salvation,  and  I came  nigh  to  losing  my 
reason  over  it.  I never  doubted,  till  I was  tried 
myself;  and  it  is  not  so  easy  to  take  things  for  granted 
with  one’s  own.  John  managed,  somehow,  to  get  me 

II 


1 62  THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD 


Logan's  book  out  of  the  Study  ; but  I felt  like  smiling 
at  the  bare  idea  of  any  mortal  satisfying  me  on  such 
a momentous  subject.  It  was  a question  that  I must 
settle  with  my  God  and  my  Bible  ; and  at  last  I got 
perfect  relief  by  resting  it  all  on  the  Compassion  of 
my  Saviour.  He  loved  her,  and  loves  her,  infinitely 
better  than  I ; and  He  could  not  be  unkind.  I mean 
to  read  Logan , however,  too  ; as  it  will  really  be  a 
comfort  to  know  how  other  Christians  felt  in  like 
circumstances  ; or,  in  like  bereavements  rather,  for 
I hope  not  very  many  have  been  situated  as  we  were. 

We  used  to  long  so  for  some  kind  Christian  friend 
to  look  in  upon  us ; for,  in  time  of  affliction,  the 
Natives  are  exactly  the  opposite  of  white  people  ; 
and,  instead  of  sympathizing  and  helping  in  trouble, 
they  shy  off,  and  fear  that  Jehovah  or  Tiapolo  is 
fighti  ng  with  you,  if  they  happen  to  be  advanced 
enough  to  have  lost  faith  in  Witchcraft,  and  that  it 
is  therefore  prudent  to  look  on  Irom  a safe  distance ! 
I do  not  say  that  this  is  the  way  our  Natives  acted 
by  any  means,  for  they  were  truly  kind  ; still  it  is 
their  pervading  feeling,  and  we  felt  that  through  all 
our  troubles  there  wras  a damper  on  the  Worship. 

Hitherto,  there  had  been  everything  to  commend 
it,  in  the  eyes  of  a Native.  The  Missi  had  been 
strong.  His  Family  were  thriving.  The  Missi’s  wife 
had  had  more  Children  in  her  time  than  any  other 
woman  in  Aniwa,  and  most  of  them  Boys  too ! 
Then,  there  was  no  comparison  in  regard  to  his  and 
their  wisdom  and  worldly  possessions.  Now,  all  was 


THE  POWER  OF  SYMPATHY  163 

different.  The  Missi  was  laid  low  ; and  his  Tavai 
Biritania — that  is,  British  Water(  = Medicine)  — could 
not  save  him.  Death  had  entered  his  Family,  and  he 
was  powerless  to  prevent  it.  Even  the  very  elements 
seemed  to  conspire  against  him,  to  prevent  his  being 
able  to  send  for  a Brother  Missionary  from  Tanna. 
And,  at  a feast,  one  of  the  darkest-hearted  fellows, 
one  of  the  very  few  who  didn’t  come  to  Church,  got 
up  and  proposed  they  should  throw  off  the  Worship, 
as  it  was  only  bringing  sickness  and  death  among 
them,  after  all  they  had  given  up  for  it.  Fortunately, 
however,  the  Gospel  had  now  too  good  a footing,  and 
his  motion  was  not  even  seconded.  Nay,  if  our 
Church  Members  could  have  shown  their  indignation 
by  bringing  fire  down  from  Heaven,  Tupaia,  for  that 
was  his  name,  would  have  had  small  chance  of  escape. 

They  were  truly  kind  to  us,  and  would  come  in 
and  say,  “ Missi,  we  are  crying  about  you,  and 
praying  all  the  time  ! ” One  day,  a dear  old  woman, 
one  of  our  first  Church  Members,  came  into  the 
bedroom,  with  the  tears  streaming  down  her  withered 
cheeks,  just  a day  or  two  after  I had  got  up,  and 
held  John’s  hand,  taking  no  notice  of  me  for  a while, 
though  I was  sitting  on  the  bed  ; and  I hoped  she 
would  not  speak  to  me,  for  my  heart  was  fluttering 
at  the  sight  of  her,  being  one  of  my  Sewing  Class 
that  I had  given  up  to  attend  to  the  little  Lamb  that 
was  gone.  At  last,  she  turned  right  round  to  me 
and  said,  in  Aniwan,  “And  your  Baby  died , Missi  !” 
There  was  such  motherlike  sorrow  in  her  voice,  that 


164  THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD 


I burst  into  a great  flood  of  tears,  and  the  dear  old 
body  clasped  her  arms  around  me  and  held  me  to 
her  heart. 

Dear  John  got  back  to  his  own  bed,  when  I got 

up  on  the  tenth  day.  But  the  fatigue  of  being 

moved — the  Natives  were  awkward  about  it,  and  I 
had  no  strength  even  to  stand  upright — did  him  no 
good.  Still,  what  a blessing  I felt  it,  to  be  able  to 
do  even  ever  so  little  to  nurse  my  own  Husband,  and 
relieve  poor  little  Bob,  who  was  worn  out  with  his 
exertions ! My  first  effort  was  to  crawl  into  the 
Study  lor  a medical  book.  It  had  been  most  tanta- 
lizing, during  our  illness,  to  see  the  Study  door 

standing  wide  open,  with  the  bookcases  almost  in 
sight,  and  no  one  able  to  fetch  us  the  right  volume. 
John  got  rapidly  worse;  and,  a fortnight  after  he 
took  ill,  when  I was  in  great  anxiety  to  get  word  to 
Tanna,  the  Natives  rushed  in  to  say  there  was  a 
white  man  in  the  pantry  ! 

Like  Rhoda,  I could  not  believe  at  first  for  glad- 
ness ; but  wrapped  a shawl  round,  and  went  to 
welcome  him,  as  never  white  man  was  welcomed. 
He  was  a known  murderer  ; but  that  mattered 
nothing  just  then,  for  he  was  a Countryman,  and 
spoke  our  tongue ! He  subsequently,  indeed,  shifted 
his  birthplace  over  to  America,  when  a Man-of-war 
came  to  inquire  into  his  misdeeds.  Besides,  he  had 
just  come  from  Tanna  in  his  boat,  and  would  be 
delighted  to  take  letters  back  from  us — and  was  he 
not  as  the  messenger  from  God  to  us? 


AT  THE  GATES  OE  DEATH 


165 


John  would  not  let  me  ask  either  of  the  Mission- 
aries there  to  come,  in  case  it  might  be  difficult  for 
them  to  get  away  ; but  I knew  I had  only  to  tell 
them  how  we  were  situated,  and  that  one  or  the  other 
would  surely  come.  The  day  after  this  Trader  left, 
my  dear  Husband  seemed  to  be  sinking.  For  two 
days,  he  was  unable  to  speak  ; and  I had  to  listen 
very  intently  even  to  hear  him  breathe.  He  could 
get  no  sleep,  though  I made  the  Children  all  go 
barefooted — to  their  intense  delight.  He  lay  with 
his  features  sunken,  and  his  eyes  wide  open.  He 
had  not  got  ten  minutes’  sleep  since  he  took  ill  ; and 
he  heard  the  most  faint  and  distant  sounds. 

I remember  the  Wednesday,  when  he  was  lowest 
of  all.  It  was  literally  a day  of  watching  and  prayer. 
I kept  guard  on  my  knees,  at  the  door  most  likely  to 
be  invaded.  All  the  Children  were  away  from  the 
house,  and  I had  planted  sentinels  to  watch  the 
approaches  ; and,  oh,  how  thankful  I felt,  as  I slipt 
in  on  tiptoe  now  and  again,  to  observe  that  at  last 
the  Lord  had  given  His  beloved  sleep ! He  slept 
for  four  hours,  and  woke  greatly  refreshed. 

A few  days  later,  we  had  the  extreme  pleasure  of 
welcoming  dear  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Watt  from  Tanna.  I 
will  leave  you  to  imagine,  for  I cannot  express,  the 
joy  and  gratitude  their  presence  gave  us  ; and  to 
estimate  their  kindness  in  coming  off  at  once,  in  an 
open  boat,  at  a time  when  they  could  ill  leave  their 
Station.  Further,  they  made  arrangements  to  be 
entirely  at  our  service,  and  stay  if  necessary  till  the 


1 66  THE  SHIPWRECK  AND  THE  ANGEL-CHILD 


Mission  Vessel  arrived,  and  take  us  back  with  them. 
They  brought  all  sorts  of  good  things  with  them  ; 
and  Mrs.  Neilson  actually  robbed  their  own  home  of 
sugar,  when  she  heard  that  we  were  like  to  run  short. 
They  stayed  with  us  a month.  John  was  again  able 
to  come  into  the  Dining-Room  for  two  or  three 
minutes,  the  day  before  they  left.  How  thankful  we 
were  ! but  oh,  how  different  he  looked  from  what  he 
had  done  the  last  time  I had  seen  him  there  ! He 
was  full  twenty  years  older  in  appearance,  very 
emaciated,  and  leaning  heavily  upon  a crutch,  which 
Mr.  Watt  had  manufactured,  and  a staff  of  his  own, 
and  his  steps  were  about  an  inch  long.  Yet  we  were 
thankful  to  the  Giver  of  all  good. 

The  Paragon  came  about  six  weeks  later.  John 
was  then  able  to  meet  friends  in  the  Drawing-Room, 
but  with  great  difficulty  ; still,  when  she  called  on  her 
return  journey,  a month  after,  he  went  off  with  her 
to  the  Synod  ! He  was  carried,  part  of  the  way,  to 
the  Boat  Harbour  ; and  there  was  some  Missionary 
or  another  attending  to  him,  the  whole  time.  In 
fact,  he  was  really  greatly  the  better  for  his  little 
voyage.  The  Children  and  I were  dropped  at  Mrs. 
Watt’s  ; and  the  other  Missionary  Sisters  stayed  with 
one  another.  John  was  to  have  remained  on  at 
Kwamera,  for  a little  change,  after  the  Synod  ; but 
it  was  there  decided  that  he  ought  to  go  to  the 
Colonies,  and  it  took  us  all  our  time  to  prepare  for 
joining  the  Paragon , a month  afterwards. 

That  was  a sad,  sad  day,  when  we  left  Atiiwa. 


A SAD  PARTING 


67 


even  for  a six  months’  absence.  I believe  neither 
the  Natives  nor  we  knew  how  much  attached  we 
were  to  each  other  till  then  ; and  there  is  one  little 
spot  that  is  very  sacred  now  and  for  ever ! I cannot 
tell  you  what  a trial  it  was  to  leave  to  strangers  the 
care  of  that  small  white  coral  Grave,  that  I have  so 
often  watered  with  my  tears. 

We  were  a few  days  on  Aneityum,  and  saw  the 
wreck  of  the  dear  old  Day  spring.  It  lies  on  its  beam 
ends,  exactly  as  Mr.  Campbell  sketched  it  ; and  it 
looks  so  melancholy  to  see  it  always  before  one's 
eyes.  We  are  delighted  with  the  Paragon , but  the 
accommodation  at  present  is  wretched,  and  must  be 
altered  to  suit  the  Mission.  Captain  Jenkins  very 
kindly  gave  up  to  us  his  State-Room,  as  John  was 
so  delicate,  and  it  was  a great  comfort  indeed.  . . . 

Yours  ever  affectionately, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 


XI 

HOME,  SWEET  HOME,  ON  ANIWA 
(to  the  family  circle) 

Aniwa,  New  Hebrides,  June,  1874. 

My  dearest  Mother,  Sisters,  and  Brothers, — 
I really  feel  as  if  I could  scarcely  have  the  hardihood 
to  date  this  letter  from  Aniwa,  after  the  terrible  letters 
of  warning  our  last  Home-mail  brought  us  as  we 
were  leaving  Sydney.  I think,  however,  I will  leave 
John  to  defend  himself— a thing  lie’s  not  altogether 
incapable  of  doing  ! I merely  beg  that  you  will  not, 
any  of  you,  look  upon  our  return  to  the  island  as 
foolhardiness  ; for  we  have  come,  in  the  meantime, 
only  until  December,  and  do  not  even  require  to 
remain  till  then  if  I should  feel  worse,  for  the  Paragon 
makes  two  trips  this  season.  And,  to  crown  all,  here 
we  are  in  our  beautiful  Island  Home,  feeling  stronger 
and  better  than  even  in  the  Colonies  amongst  all 
the  kindness  that  was  heaped  upon  us  ! 

I must,  however,  arrive  at  Aniwa  more  by  degrees, 
as  this  is  to  be  the  journalistic  Family  Epistle, 
and  you  have  heard  nothing  of  us  since  we  left 
Sydney  on  the  4th  of  April,  with  dear  Dr.  Steele 

168 


TWELVE  DAYS  AT  SEA 


169 


on  board,  who  seemed  like  a link  between  us  and 
civilization.  I felt  “strong  to  go,”  as  our  Natives 
would  express  it,  for  I realized  as  I never  before  had 
done  the  “ Lo,  I am  with  you,”  and  some  of  God’s 
dear  ones  with  whom  we  have  had  such  precious 
Christian  fellowship  were  with  us  till  the  last.  Dr. 
Steele  was  very  near  the  truth  too,  when  he  said  to 
some  one  who  was  bantering  me  about  keeping  so 
cool,  “ Ah,  the  bitterness  of  her  grief  was  past,  when 
she  left  Adelaide.” 

We  had  a roughish  passage  of  twelve  days,  sighted 
numbers  of  vessels  on  first  setting  out,  and  “ Ball’s 
Pyramid  ” five  days  thereafter,  and  lastly,  but  for 
the  first  time  in  my  experience,  “Walpole  Island,” 
two  days  before  arriving  at  Aneityum.  We  passed  it 
on  a fine  star-lit  night,  and  could  see  the  dark  outline 
and  the  water  breaking  on  the  shore.  It  seemed  like 
Aniwa  in  appearance,  but  higher  and  smaller,  with  no 
vegetation  and  of  course  no  inhabitants. 

The  usual  amount  of  things  blew  overboard,  I 
losing  a good  hat ; and  John  had  to  bewail  the 
destruction  of  his  boxes  and  pots  of  flowers  on  deck, 
for  there  was  a goat  on  board  which  unfortunately 
had  as  great  a taste  for  them  as  himself,  and  ate  up 
nearly  eveiy  one  of  them  ! 

You  were  hoping,  Helen,  that  Bishop  Patteson’s 
Life  would  be  put  on  board,  and  it  was,  along  with 
a number  of  other  new  Missionary  works,  which  the 
Missionaries  eagerly  perused  on  the  voyage  down. 
I devoured  Jones  on  the  Trinity , a precious  little  book 


170 


HOME,  SWEET  HOME,  ON  ANIWA 


given  to  me  by  a dear  friend  in  Sydney,  and  which 
it  took  me  the  whole  voyage  to  get  thoroughly  read 
and  digested.  I was  too  sick,  and  weak  in  consequence, 
to  do  anything  but  lie  and  read  on  deck,  not  being 
able  to  go  down  even  to  Worship  or  meals  till  a day 
or  two  before  we  landed  at  Aneityum.  . . . 

We  were  all  heartily  thankful,  when  we  cast  anchor 
in  Anelqauhat  Harbour  (Dr.  Geddie’s  old  Station), 
but  were  so  sorry  on  Dr.  Steele’s  account  that  it  was 
such  a dull  drizzly  wet  morning.  Everything  looked 
its  worst,  and  not  a Native  was  to  be  seen.  Even 
the  beautiful  mountains  were  half  enveloped  in  mist, 
and  the  Doctor  was  evidently  disappointed,  though 
he  took  care  not  to  express  it  in  words.  He  missed, 
exactly  as  I did  on  first  seeing  the  Islands,  the  sight 
of  Native  houses  along  the  shore,  for  they  all  live 
a little  in  through  the  bush.  It  is  so  nice  to  watch 
somebody — I mean  somebody  worth  watching — 
coming  fresh  to  the  Islands,  and  to  see  one’s  own  first 
impressions  reproduced  ! 

After  an  early  breakfast,  we  got  into  the  boat,  and 
had  such  a warm  welcome  from  our  kind  friends  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Murray,  who  would  not  hear  of  our  return 
to  the  vessel  again.  ...  We  planned  to  go  round  to 
Mr.  Inglis’s  Station  next  day,  being  Friday,  as  I knew 
it  would  be  my  only  opportunity  of  seeing  Mrs. 
Inglis,  and  they  had  urgent  letters  of  invitation 
awaiting  us.  The  Murrays  were  determined  that  we 
should  remain  ; and  the  wind  seemed  to  favour  them, 
for  it  blew  almost  a hurricane  during  the  night,  so 


FACING  THE  STORM 


171 


that  we  were  rather  amazed  to  see  the  Captain  come 
ashore  for  us  after  breakfast.  He  was  obliged  to  see 
Mr.  Inglis  on  business,  and  Dr.  Steele  was  also 
anxious  to  get  round,  so  we  thought  we  might 
venture.  When  we  went  on  board,  however,  before 
finally  starting,  we  were  met  with  a perfect  chorus 
of  objections  from  all  the  Missionaries  for  setting 
out  in  such  weather ! “ Every  man  to  his  trade,” 

thought  I,  and  placed  my  confidence  in  nautical 
affairs  on  the  Captain  rather  than  on  the  Mission- 
aries. John  felt  he  must  go,  if  possible,  he  had  so 
much  to  say  to  Mr.  Inglis  ; and,  as  I was  quite  as 
full  of  news  for  Mrs.  Inglis — “ gossip,”  the  wise  it 
call — and  certainly  more  able  to  rough  it  than  he,  I 
hastily  reduced  our  luggage  to  very  small  compass, 
as  there  was  some  probability  of  our  having  to  walk 
part  of  the  way,  and  the  Natives  would  have  enough  to 
do  in  carrying  the  youngsters,  Minn  and  Frank.  Dr. 
Steele  had  been  fairly  frightened  out  of  going,  but  I 
felt  sure  he  could  not  hesitate  if  I went.  The  worthy 
Doctor,  however,  had  too  much  respect  for  his  taber- 
nacle to  be  led  into  danger,  even  by  a woman,  and 
contented  himself  with  looking  wistfully  over  the  stern 
of  the  vessel  till  we  sailed  out  of  sight.  It  was  with 
fear  and  trembling  that  we  committed  ourselves  to 
that  little  shell  of  a thing,  jumping  up  and  down  on 
the  great  waves — and  I envied  the  bairns  their  high 
spirits.  But  we  were  most  agreeably  disappointed. 
The  wind  died  off,  as  the  Captain  had  predicted,  and 
we  never  had  a pleasanter  sail  round  to  Aname. 


172 


HOME , SWEET  HOME,  ON  ANIWA 


We  got  there  in  about  four  hours,  in  time  for  a late 
dinner,  which  we  did  full  justice  to  ; and  had  such  a 
fine  quiet  time  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Inglis,  who  have 
been  truly  as  father  and  mother  to  us.  It  so  happened 
that  I had  not  been  to  Aname  since  before  Frank 
was  born  ; so  I had  to  go  through  all  the  rooms  and 
premises,  just  to  make  sure  they  were  still  in  the 
same  place  after  all  the  earthquakes  and  hurricanes. 
The  damage  that  had  been  done  during  the  “ Day- 
spring  Hurricane  ” was  frightful,  though  there  is  little 
trace  of  it  now.  Mrs.  Inglis  showed  me  a great 
wooden  safe,  or  press,  which  had  been  carried  bodily 
some  miles  up  the  river,  but  the  door  was  fastened  so 
well  that  nothing  inside  was  broken  or  spoiled  ! The 
Orangery  of  twenty  years’  growth  was  in  its  most 
tempting  beauty,  and  we  did  pay  attention  to  the 
fine  large  oranges — Minn  and  Frank  were  never  to  be 
seen  without  them. 

The  weather  continued  wet  while  we  were  there, 
and  the  Missionaries  had  a dreadful  day  for  landing 
when  the  vessel  brought  them  round  on  the  following 
Tuesday.  It  really  was  with  danger  to  life  and  limb 
that  the  boat  cleared  from  the  Vessel  and  brought 
them  off.  Mr.  Inglis’s  goods  could  not  be  landed, 
and  we  had  anything  but  comfortable  sensations  at 
the  prospect  of  going  on  board  that  afternoon.  The 
Vessel  could  not  be  kept  waiting,  however,  so  we 
packed  and  bade  adieu,  and  got  a few  yards  from  the 
gate,  when  one  of  those  tropical  pours  came  on,  and 
Inhn  felt,  as  we  all  did,  that  it  was  as  much  as  his  life 


THE  GUIDING  HAND 


73 


was  worth  to  go  out  in  it,  so  we  turned  in  to  the 
Institution  to  wait  till  it  was  over.  It  was  agreed, 
however,  after  some  consultation,  to  send  a letter  to 
the  Captain  in  name  of  the  Missionaries,  asking  him 
to  send  in  a boat  for  us  next  day.  And  right  glad 
were  we  to  turn  in  again,  and  gather  round  Mrs. 
Inglis’s  comfortable  tea-table — which  little  Minn 
evidently  regarded  as  a foolish  proceeding,  for  she 
demanded  indignantly  why  we  didn't  go  right  off 
after  she  had  kissed  all  the  people  ! 

Next  day  was  worse,  and  when  Mr.  Arthur,  the 
mate,  presented  himself  on  the  verandah  with  only 
his  nose  and  eyes  visible  from  his  oilskins,  there  was 
no  thought  of  attempting  to  get  drowned  that  day. 
So  stormy  was  it  that  the  usual  Wednesday  prayer- 
meeting for  the  Natives  could  not  be  held.  We  won- 
dered what  God  was  detaining  us  for,  as  nothing  of 
the  kind  exactly  had  occurred  before,  but  it  was  all 
explained  in  the  evening.  As  we  were  sitting  at  tea, 
a Native  came  overland  with  a mail  from  the  other  side, 
where  Mrs.  Goodwill  and  her  two  children  had  been 
left  with  Mrs.  Murray.  The  letter  was  from  Mrs. 
Goodwill  to  Mrs.  Inglis,  telling  her  that  little  Tommy 
was  dying  and  bewailing  her  husband’s  absence, 
little  dreaming  he  was  still  on  the  same  island  and 
would  himself  read  her  sorrowful  epistle.  We  had  a 
silent  perusal  of  it  round  the  table,  as  it  entered  so 
much  into  the  detail  of  the  darling  child's  sufferings 
that  it  could  not  be  read  aloud.  How  clearly  then 
we  saw  the  guiding  Hand  in  the  storm  Mr.  Inglis 


174 


HOME,  SWEET  HOME,  ON  ANIWA 


at  once  looked  out  a crew  for  next  morning,  as  it 
was  impracticable  to  go  that  night,  and  proposed  that 
instead  of  the  sermon  usually  read  on  Wednesday 
evenings  there  should  be  a meeting  for  prayer  on 
behall  of  the  dear  child.  He  conducted  it,  and  each 
of  the  Missionaries  except  Mr.  Goodwill,  and  Dr. 
Steele  made  earnest  supplication  that  the  child  might 
be  spared.  (I  am  happy  to  be  able  to  say  that  the 
little  fellow  is  alive  and  kicking !)  I don't  believe 
there  was  a dry  eye  in  the  room,  and  poor  Goodwill 
seemed  prostrate,  his  tears  dropping  the  whole 
evening.  It  was  really  “the  strong  man  bowed 
down  ” ; and  he  quite  took  our  hearts  by  storm,  as  I 
believe  we  did  his  (for  once  !),  for  after  the  closing 
prayer  he  said,  in  as  steady  a voice  as  he  could  com- 
mand, “ I thank  all  you  dear  brethren  for  your  kind 
sympathy  and  prayers,”  and  bidding  us  Good-night 
he  walked  off  to  his  room.  . . . 

The  vessel  merely  showed  herself  in  the  distance, 
not  being  able  to  send  in  a boat ; but  next  day, 
Friday,  when  Mrs.  Inglis  was  assuring  us  that  we 
would  have  another  Sabbath  at  Aname,  in  came  the 
boat  with  a message  from  the  Captain,  to  the  effect 
that  he  could  not  keep  dodging  about  any  longer 
(there  is  no  anchorage  at  Aname),  and  must  make  for 
Tanna  now  without  us  if  we  could  not  come.  The 
Missionaries  thoroughly  sympathized  with  the  Cap- 
tain, and  also  with  the  other  Mission  families,  who 
might  be  in  sickness  or  starvation  while  waiting  so 
long  for  the  vessel  ; so  we  had  to  bundle  and  go,  in 


FAINT  WITH  TERROR 


175 


the  drenching  rain  and  high  wind,  with  the  sky  all 
black  and  the  waves  all  white.  It  was  a dreadful 
sail.  A squall  came  up  and  we  lost  sight  of  the 
vessel,  while  the  tremendous  waves  threatened  every 
moment  to  swamp  us,  and  we  were  literally  soaked 
with  sea  and  rain.  I never  felt  so  faint  with  terror, 
except  once  at  Fate,  when  we  lost  our  rudder  just  as 
we  got  in  among  the  boiling  reefs  ; and  I made  the 
most  solemn  resolutions  to  end  my  days  on  Aniwa 
(should  I be  fortunate  enough  to  get  there  ! ) rather 
than  risk  my  nervous  system  in  a boat  again. 

When  we  got  on  board,  however,  we  found  that 
others  had  been  in  more  imminent  peril  than  our- 
selves, for  one  of  the  sailors,  a young  boy,  had  been 
pitched  overboard  in  the  storm  that  morning,  while 
the  vessel  was  tearing  along  at  full  speed,  so  that  she 
was  three  miles  away  ere  they  could  pull  her  up.  A 
boat  was  of  course  lowered  and  sent  in  pursuit, 
though  with  but  slender  hope  of  success  ; but  the 
poor  boy  battled  bravely  with  the  waves,  and  being  a 
good  swimmer  kept  up  till  he  was  rescued,  feeling 
none  the  worse  after  a short  sleep  for  his  prolonged 
bath. 

We  anticipated,  however,  more  serious  consequences 
for  John  with  his  rheumatism,  and  for  Dr.  Steele,  who 
is  subject  to  fever  ; but  one  and  all  of  us  jumped  out 
of  our  wet  clothes  and  went  right  off  to  bed,  leaving 
Hutshi  and  the  Steward  to  wring  and  dry  them  as 
best  they  might.  The  next  day  was  a lovely  one, 
and  we  lay  off  Kwamera  Mr.  Watt’s  Station,  before 


176 


HOME,  SWEET  HOME,  ON  ANIWA 


dinner,  which  we  were  all  determined  to  have  on 
shore,  notwithstanding  the  previous  day’s  experience. 
So,  when  the  boat  was  lowered,  we  were  all  ready  to 
jump  into  it,  not  one  whit  the  worse,  except  our  hats, 
which  were  rather  in  a battered  condition  ! The  sail 
was  really  pleasant,  all  but  the  narrow  passage  through 
the  reef,  when  one  has  to  hold  one’s  breath  for  a 
minute,  and  we  had  a most  hearty  welcome  from 
our  dear  friends  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Watt.  I can  never 
forget  their  intense  loving-kindness,  when  they  came 
over  to  Aniwa  in  the  time  of  our  distress  last  year.  . . . 

The  notorious  “ Ross  Lcwin  ” has  met  with  his 
long-predicted  fate  at  last,  having  been  shot  by  the 
Tannese  after  a quarrel  about  land.  His  widow  and 
brother  had  to  make  their  escape  in  a little  boat, 
taking  the  dead  body  with  them,  and  were  picked 
up  at  sea  next  day  by  a Trading  Vessel.  The  body 
had  to  be  buried  at  sea,  along  with  Mrs.  Lewin’s  dead 
baby,  still-born  in  the  vessel.  How  many  of  these 
Traders  die  by  violence,  and  yet  they  will  not  take 
warning  ! . . . 

We  had  finished  up  at  Fotuna  soon  after  breakfast, 
and  how  intensely  delighted  we  were  to  hear  the 
Captain’s  cheery  voice  shouting  out  that  we  would 
be  able  to  have  a drink  of  milk  at  Aniwa  to-morrow 
morning,  as  the  wind  was  fair.  We  had  all  packed 
up  in  the  afternoon,  and  the  first  sight  which  greeted 
me,  on  looking  out  at  my  port-hole  next  morning, 
was  the  trees  and  rocks  of  dear  old  Aniwa  ! The 
first  boat  was  sent  ashore  with  eight  or  nine  Fotunese 


A ROYAL  WELCOME 


177 


ar.d  their  cumbrous  baggage,  who  had  insisted  on 
coming  to  visit  our  island,  rather  to  the  disgust  of 
the  Captain.  Meantime  we  were  having  our  break- 
fast, and  Mr.  Arthur,  the  mate,  brought  back  word 
that  our  Natives  were  in  a state  of  great  delight  and 
excitement — dear  Yawaci  making  the  younger  girls 
fly  round  their  work — also  that  our  six  cows  had 
increased  to  ten,  and  that  our  goats  no  man  could 
number ! He  had  also  heard  that  a number  of  our 
Natives  had  died,  and  some  had  been  taken  away  by 
Traders. 

When  we  neared  the  shore,  we  could  see  that  the 
great  majority  of  the  people  had  turned  out,  and 
even  the  very  cattle  and  goats  had  been  brought 
to  meet  us ! There  were  my  Girls,  standing  in  a 
group,  in  bright  pink  dresses  sewed  and  shaped  by 
themselves,  and  turkey-red  turbans  ; and,  in  short,  by 
one  and  another  of  the  Natives,  the  colours  of  the 
rainbow  were  well  represented.  Not  one  person,  I 
am  thankful  to  say,  was  without  clothing.  True,  some 
of  their  garments  were  ragged  and  scanty  enough  ; 
still,  they  had  them,  and  it  was  almost  more  than  we 
expected  from  some  of  them,  after  being  away  from 
them  so  long.  They  do  so  love  to  run  naked ! 

What  a shaking  of  hands  and  alofa-ing  there  was  ! 
Two  or  three  little  groups  were  sitting  apart  sobbing 
for  their  dead  ; indeed,  they  firmly  believed  that  if 
we  had  been  on  the  island  to  attend  to  them  they 
would  not  have  died.  When  we  reached  the  house, 
everything  looked  beautiful  and  the  ground  so  well 


12 


•78 


HOME,  SWEET  HOME,  ON  ANIWA 


kept,  new  coral  on  the  walks,  a fine  new  mat  on 
the  Dining-Room  floor  and  another  in  the  lobby,  and 
last,  but  not  least,  in  the  estimation  of  weary  sea- 
voyagers,  a great  jug  of  new  goats’  milk  ! When  Dr. 
Steele  and  Mr.  Robertson  made  playful  speeches 
about  our  Home-coming  before  drinking  it,  I could 
most  truly  say,  even  after  all  the  enjoyment  and 
kindness  of  the  Colonies,  and  delightful  Christian 
fellowship  with  kindred  spirits  there,  Home , sweet 
Home , no  place  like  home.  There  was  great  lamenta- 
tion among  the  Natives  over  the  absence  of  our  dear 
Bob  and  Fred,  and  John  had  not  got  further  with  his 
dinner  than  the  first  mouthful  when  he  began  to 
think  of  them.  “ Why  didn’t  you  bring  them  back  ? ” 
was  the  first  question  we  were  greeted  with  on  landing  ; 
but  I had  no  time  just  then  to  indulge  in  sentiment, 
having  to  rush  about  and  see  after  the  dinner. 
Masitaia,  my  cook  and  little  Litsi’s  intended  husband 
(a  very  fine  fellow),  had,  most  thoughtfully,  the  kettle 
boiling,  the  yams  cooked,  and  a couple  of  fowls  plucked 
when  we  arrived  ; but,  Native-like,  he  waited  for  me 
to  give  him  things  to  stuff  them — as  if  I were  going 
to  manufacture  stuffing  the  moment  I arrived  ! We 
had  a jolly  dinner,  however,  for  we  had  only  one 
spoon  at  large,  and  I had  seized  a bed  sheet  for 
a tablecloth,  not  being  able  in  my  excitement  to 
remember  where  the  right  articles  were  packed  away. 

Amidst  all  my  hurry,  however,  I had  five  minutes 
alone  by  my  little  Lena’s  grave.  The  beautiful  white 
coral  was  blackened,  but  the  grass  and  shrubs  had 


THE  MISSION  HOUSE  ON  ANIWA. 


" ANOTHER  SOUL 


1 8 1 


grown,  and  the  lemon  branches  with  their  bright  fruit 
were  bending  over  and  shading  it  beautifully.  How 
naturally  one  looks  up  to  the  blue  sky  above,  and 
wonders  where  the  spirit  is,  or  if  she  can  see  the 
mourning  hearts  below.  She  would  have  been  running 
on  her  own  little  feet  now,  had  she  been  on  Earth  ; 
but  though  my  heart  aches  for  her  still,  I would  not 
have  it  otherwise,  for  she  was  not  sent  in  vain,  and 
oh,  what  a little  teacher  she  has  been  ! When  John 
took  Dr.  Steele  to  see  the  grave,  he  said,  “You  have 
thus  taken  possession  ” ; and  I felt  we  had  taken 
possession  of  more  through  her  than  that  little  spot 
of  ground  on  Aniwa. 

Our  visitors  and  vessel  left  us  in  the  afternoon, 
and  on  my  return  from  seeing  them  off  (John 
was  too  exhausted  to  go),  I met  a very  nice 
man,  one  of  the  Church  members,  who  stopped  me 
and  said,  Missi,  I've  given  my  boy  up  to  you  and 
Missi  the  man,  and  you' re  to  feed  and  clothe  and  teach 
him,  as  you  do  the  other  children.  I could  hardly 
believe  my  ears,  and  you  would  need  to  know  how 
boys  are  prized  here  to  appreciate  as  we  did  the 
sacrifice  made;  at  least,  as  John  did,  for  I must 
confess  that  the  thought  of  their  bodily  sustenance 
comes  between  me  and  the  fervent  thanksgiving  of 
my  earnest  little  man  for  “ another  soul  being  added  to 
our  care  !”  We’ve  got  ten  of  these  souls,  with  bodies 
attached,  at  the  present  time,  besides  several  out- 
siders who  come  during  the  day,  and  it  taxes  all  my 
ingenuity  to  keep  them  in  work  and  “Kai-kai”— 


1 82 


HOME,  SIVEET  HOME,  ON  ANIWA 


their  capacity  for  the  latter  being  of  no  mean  order. 
Their  clothes  are  no  concern  beyond  the  making  of 
them,  and  that  they  soon  learn  to  do  for  themselves  ; 
for  we  have  always  been  abundantly  supplied  from 
kind  Mission  friends. 

Our  Victorian  Committee  too  offered  some  years 
ago  to  be  at  the  expense  of  their  support,  but  John 
would  not  hear  of  it ; for  he  said  it  would  only  keep 
me  worrying  to  run  up  numbers  and  so  forth,  when 
really  there  are  but  few  children  to  educate,  and  I 
would  require  to  make  out  what  they  call  an  “ en- 
couraging ” report  to  please  subscribers  and  all  that 
sort  of  nonsense.  Now  we  are  thoroughly  indepen- 
dent to  work  for  our  Lord  and  for  our  fellow-creatures, 
as  He  Himself  leads  us  ; and  John  very  cheerfully 
puts  his  donation  to  the  Mission  and  other  good 
causes  (which  we  have  little  chance  of  giving  to  here) 
in  the  form  of  casks  of  biscuit  and  bags  of  rice  for 
our  Natives.  Although  I do  sometimes  think  how 
nice  it  would  be  to  be  in  Civilization  with  a small 
house  of  our  own  and  with  the  care  of  only  one  or 
two  servants  at  most,  yet  we  are  more  than  repaid 
for  all  our  love  to  these  dear  Darkies.  They  are  just 
like  our  very  children,  and  such  we  always  call  them, 
and  they  are  so  confiding  and  loving  with  us,  and  tell 
us  everything— especially  the  three  elder  girls,  who 
have  lived  with  us  now  for  more  than  five  years. 

By  the  way,  we  have  just  had  an  affaire  de  coeur 
amongst  them,  and  as  Hutshi  is  the  young  lady  you 
will  be  interested  to  hear.  You  know  she  was  given 


NELWANG  AND  HUTSHI 


1 8 3 


away,  when  an  infant,  by  her  parents,  to  Nelwang, 
another  infant  about  the  same  age,  but  who  is  now 
one  of  the  best  and  most  intelligent  boys  on  the 
island — the  only  drawback  being  that  his  limbs  arc 
rather  diseased,  and  he  is  so  fearfully  timid  that  he 
won’t  let  John  apply  anything  to  cure  them.  Well, 
when  we  were  in  Sydney,  a middle-aged  man,  a 
returned  labourer,  whose  betrothed  wife  is  yet  a baby, 
came  trying  tc  curry  favour  with  Hutshi’s  guardians 
(her  parents  are  dead  long  ago)  by  bringing  them 
large  presents,  and  finally  got  them  talked  over  to 
give  him  Hutshi  when  she  returned  with  us — so  it 
was  settled,  only  awaiting  her  and  our  consent. 
Now,  her  guardian  has  always  been  most  honour- 
able with  us.  He  gave  up  Hutshi  to  us,  when  she 
was  of  the  greatest  use  in  his  village  (but  I took 
care  to  let  her  go  and  help  them  pretty  often),  and 
when  we  asked  if  she  might  go  with  us  to  the 
Colonies,  he  and  his  wife  said,  “ She  is  more  your 
child  than  ours,  Missi  ; do  as  you  like.”  So,  when 
they  explained  matters  to  John  one  evening  in  the 
Study,  and  said  that  both  Hutshi  and  Nelwang  were 
agreeable  to  the  change,  he  felt  he  could  not  inter- 
fere much,  but  warned  them  not  to  be  too  rash,  and 
to  ask  God  about  it. 

Hutshi,  the  mischief,  flirted  with  her  new  admirer 
when  she  could  get  a chance,  and  I felt  it  would  be  a 
great  relief  to  have  her  married  ; but  we  could  see, 
from  Nel wang’s  looks  (he  is  one  of  our  Boys),  that 
there  was  a pain  at  his  heart.  I set  him  a piece  of 


184 


HOME , SWEET  HOME,  ON  ANIWA 


work  in  the  Dining-Room  one  day,  and,  sitting  down 
to  help  him,  got  all  his  confidence.  The  poor  boy’s 
heart  was  breaking,  and  he  wound  up  by  saying,  “ I 
can’t  tell  them  my  heart,  Missi,  for  they  would  but 
laugh,  and  I am  only  one  ; but  if  my  father  had  been 
alive,  they  would  not  have  dared  to  give  Hutshi  away 
before  my  eyes.”  Seeing  his  lady-love,  however,  who 
at  that  moment  came  in  at  the  open  window  and 
evidently  comprehended  matters,  he  tossed  his  head 
proudly  and  said,  It's  very  good  that  she  takes  him  ! 

John  and  I espoused  Nelwang’s  cause  from  that 
moment,  and  he  soon  found  an  opportunity  for  saying 
a word  on  his  behalf.  I also  got  Hutshi  alone,  and 
told  her  what  Nelwang  had  said.  She  replied  that 
she  did  not  know  what  to  do,  as  they  were  all  urging 
her  to  take  Sarra  (the  new  lover),  but  she  said,  “ I 
would  cry  more  to  give  up  Nelwang  than  that  old 
fellow  ! ” 

She  came  to  me  the  other  day,  and  said  she  had 
finally  made  up  her  mind  to  keep  by  Nelwang.  1 
answered,  “ But  I thought,  Hutshi,  you  seemed  for 
the  while  to  prefer  the  other?”  “Yes,  Missi,”  she 
replied,  “ when  everybody  was  praising  him  and 
telling  me  to  take  him,  I thought  it  would  be  nice  ; 
but  Nelwang  and  I have  had  a talk.  We  told  each 
other  what  our  dead  parents  said  about  our  being 
married  when  we  were  big,  and  then  we  both  cried, 
and  we  are  going  to  be  true  to  each  other  ! ” So  you 
see  there  is  sentiment  in  Blacks  as  well  as  Whites  ! 

We  had  such  a nice  quiet  month,  after  landing,  to 


KALANGI'S  BULL 


185 

put  things  straight  and  to  hear  all  the  Natives  had  to 
tell  us.  One  man  came  grinning  from  ear  to  ear  to 
tell  us  that  his  wife  had  twins  ; and  as  that  is  of  the 
rarest  occurrence  here,  we  had  to  make  a great 
waho-ing  over  it,  and  get  out  a nursing  bottle,  which 
the  devoted  father  carried  backwards  and  forwards  to 
our  house  for  fresh  goats’  milk  daily  till  he  got  tired 
of  it  ! 

Then  we  had,  I think,  about  fourteen  death- beds 
to  hear  of.  Kalangi,  little  Litsi's  father,  a strong, 
middle-aged  man  and  earnest  Christian,  died  after  a 
few  days’  illness,  and  has  been  very  much  lamented 
by  the  Natives  around.  They  have  testified  their 
respect  to  his  memory  by  stuffing  one  of  our  young 
bulls,  which  Kalangi  had  named  for  himself,  with  sugar- 
cane and  all  sorts  of  niceties,  till  the  animal’s  sides 
stuck  out ! So  devoted  were  they,  and  especially  his 
widow,  to  this  creature  that  John  felt  he  must  ask 
their  leave  before  giving  it  to  another  Missionary. 
They  gave  a reluctant  consent  ; but  begged  John  to 
make  Mr.  Milne  promise  not  to  change  the  name — - 
and  oh,  what  a scene  there  was  at  the  parting  ! 

Here  I am  at  the  end  of  my  fourth  sheet,  and  have 
not  even  begun  to  tell  you  of  the  nice  Ladies’  Meeting 
we  had  at  Aniwa,  or  the  lively  time  we  have  had  with 
visitors  ever  since  the  vessel  returned  with  the 
Missionaries  on  board  for  the  Annual  Synod.  . . . VVe 
are  all  so  well  ourselves  too,  and  the  effect  of  our 
delightful  Colonial  visit  has  told  wonderfully  upon  us, 
now  that  we  are  clear  of  the  sea-sickness  and  excite- 


HOME,  SIVEET  HOME,  O.V  ANIJVA 


1 86 


ment  of  travelling  and  got  quietly  nestled  down 
among  our  Darkies.  John,  but  for  that  vicious  rheu- 
matism, would  be  his  old  self  again  ; and  as  for  me, 
I was  never  better  in  all  my  life,  or  ever  stouter  ; and 
that  day  the  Annands  and  Milnes  were  left  here,  we 
were  overpowered  with  compliments  upon  our  healthy 
looks  from  Dr.  Steele  and  the  other  gentlemen  who 
came  off  to  dinner.  After  enjoying  the  week’s  re- 
freshing intercourse  with  all  these  dear  friends,  the 
vessel  came  again  from  Tanna,  picked  up  all  our 
husbands  for  the  Synod,  but  left  dear  Mrs.  Watt  with 
us.  We  four  wives  had  then  a most  delightful  time  ; 
and  there  was  no  gossip,  no  small  scandal  talk,  which 
our  lords  and  masters  ungallantly  predicted  there 
would  be  when  our  four  heads  got  close  together ! 

Seriously,  it  was  an  improving  time,  for  we  had 
precious  Christian  fellowship,  and  we  divided  the  day 
methodically,  thus  : — In  the  morning,  when  I looked 
after  my  many  household  duties,  the  others  generally 
wrote  letters,  but  sometimes  helped  me.  In  the  after- 
noon, we  all  gathered  to  the  Study,  to  which  Mrs.  Watt 
and  Mrs.  Milne  had  given  quite  the  air  of  a Studio , 
with  their  drawing  boards  and  paint  boxes,  for  they 
were  copying  one  of  my  paintings.  Mrs.  Annand 
and  I brought  our  work-baskets,  and  one  or  other  of 
us  read  aloud.  After  tea,  we  generally  devoted  the 
whole  evening  to  music,  all  being  so  fond  of  it  ; so  the 
little  harmonium  was  brought  in  from  the  Church 
and  made  to  do  duty.  We  invariably  began  with 
There  is  a Name , to  the  music  dear  Mrs.  Macdonald 


A GOOD  OLD  BOOK 


187 


gave  me  ; and  nearly  always  wound  up  with  the  Te 
Deutn , at  Mrs.  Annand’s  request,  as  she  said  it  re- 
minded her  of  old  times — she  having  been  brought 
up  in  the  English  Church.  Ruth  and  Naomi,  and 
other  nice  pieces,  we  took  in  parts.  1 did  so  enjoy 
those  Evenings,  for  I seldom  get  in  the  harmonium 
unless  we  have  visitors,  for  the  Natives  suddenly 
take  pains  in  their  backs  the  moment  I propose  it ! 

If  we  got  too  tired  singing  we  would  continue  our 
reading  or  chat,  and  the  books  we  read  were  well 
worth  talking  about.  Mrs.  Milne  brought  us  all  the 
accounts  about  “ Moody  and  Sankey,”  and  we  were 
stirred  up  to  long  and  pray  for  a revival  here.  We 
read  also  The  Higher  Christian  Life,  with  preface  by 
Miss  Marsh,  Jones,  and  some  of  Goidbourn,  and  that 
precious  old  book  Trail  on  the  Lord's  Prayer.  A kind 
friend  in  Sydney  gave  me  the  loan  of  it,  but  I had  to 
skip  the  latter  part  for  want  of  time  ; so,  when  I got 
to  Aneityum,  Mr.  Inglis  hunted  for  it  in  his  library 
and  lent  it  to  me.  There  seems  to  be  less  philoso- 
phizing, and  splitting  up  of  the  Trinity,  with  these 
old  Divines  than  in  more  modern  writers.  He  (Trail) 
presents  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ  to  his  readers  in  all 
His  majesty  and  glory,  not  only  as  the  Saviour  of 
the  world  and  the  second  Person  of  the  Trinity,  but 
as  the  great  Triune  Jehovah,  in  whom  dwelleth  all 
the  fulness  of  the  Godhead  bodily.  He  says  we  can 
never  find  God  till  we  are  content  to  see  Him  in 
Christ.  I cannot  forbear  from  quoting  one  wee 
paragraph,  exactly  as  he  has  it  in  his  fifth  Sermon  : — 


1 88  HOME,  SWEET  HOME,  ON  AN1WA 


“ By  virtue  of  this  interest  in  Christ,  Believers  have  all 
Christ’s  fulness  for  their  supply.  He  is  all  in  all  to  them 
(Col.  iii.  n).  1 It  pleased  the  Father  that  in  Him  should  all 

fulness  dwell’  (Col.  i.  19).  And  surely,  this  longing  of  all 
Fulness  should  please,  and  doth  highly  please,  all  Believers. 
John  i.  16:  ‘And  of  (or  out  of)  His  fulness  have  all  we 
received,  and  grace  for  grace.’  Eph.  iv.  7 : ‘ Unto  every  one 
of  us  is  given  grace,  according  to  the  measure  of  the  gift  of 
Christ.’  Whence  had  Paul  and  John  all  their  grace,  but  of 
Christ’s  fulness  ? Whence  was  it  that  they  received  so  much 
grace  beyond  others  ? It  was  according  to  the  measure  of 
the  gift  of  Christ.  But  the  stock  and  treasure  is  common  to 
all  Believers.  They  are  partakers  of  Christ  (Heb.  iii.  14), 
and  called  to  the  fellowship  of  His  Son  Jesus  Christ  our 
Lord  (1  Cor.  i.  9).  The  Apostle  (Col.  ii.  8-10)  giveth  a 
needful  warning,  ‘ Beware  lest  any  man  spoil  you  through 
philosophy  and  vain  deceit.’  But  how  shall  we  know  and 
discern  the  snare  ? It  is  after  the  tradition  of  man,  after 
the  rudiments  or  elements  or  principles  of  the  world,  and 
not  after  Christ.  His  argument  to  enforce  this  warning  is 
deep  and  strong.  Verse  9 : ‘ For  in  Him  dwelleth  all  the 
fulness  of  the  Godhead  bodily.’  It  dwelleth  really,  sub- 
stantially in  this  One  Man  JESUS  CHRIST.  So  that 
they  do  deceive  you,  that  direct  you  to  any  for  supply  but 
to  Him.  If  ye  would  be  filled  with  all  the  fulness  of  God 
(Eph.  iii.  19),  ye  must  seek  it  and  find  it  in  Him  in  whom 
dwelleth  all  the  fulness  of  the  Godhead  bodily.  And  this 
shall  not  be  in  vain,  for  ‘ ye  are  complete  in  Him’  (verse 
10).  Never  did,  never  could,  a Believer  use  this  Fulness, 
suitably  to  all  its  worth  in  itself  and  to  the  gracious  right 
he  hath  to  use  it.” 


I was  telling  Mr.  Inglis,  when  they  all  called  here 
after  the  Synod,  that  I went  to  Trail  next  to  my 


BLESSED  MEETINGS 


189 


Bible,  when  I wanted  “ the  finest  of  the  wheat,”  and 
he  said  I was  to  keep  it  to  myself  and  wrote  my  name 
on  it. 

That  was  a refreshing  visit,  on  the  return  of  the 
vessel  from  the  Synod  ; and  we  had  a cheery  house- 
ful, for  in  addition  to  our  four  husbands,  whom,  as 
canny  Scots  say,  “ we  were  not  sorry  ” to  see  after  a 
three  weeks’  absence,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Inglis  and  Dr 
Steele  (the  latter  to  remain  with  us)  came  and  stayed 
from  the  Saturday  till  the  Monday,  the  vessel  going 
out  to  sea  with  the  rest  of  the  Missionaries,  who 
declared  it  would  kill  me  outright  to  have  any  more  ! 
Those  who  came  tried  to  make  me  promise  just  to 
give  them  a pillow  and  a blanket  on  the  floor,  but  we 
got  them  snugly  stowed  away  in  beds  and  on  sofas, 
and  we  so  enjoyed  their  society.  It  is  especially 
delightful  to  hear  their  voices  mingling  in  the  Psalm 
at  Family  Worship.  It  makes  one  think  of  the  great 
company  of  the  redeemed,  singing  the  “ New  Song.” 

The  Sabbath  was  such  a blessed  day  too,  and  it 
was  quite  an  event  in  the  Church  history  of  Aniwa  to 
see  six  Missionaries  on  the  platform,  and  five  ladies 
in  the  Missionary’s  pew.  Mr.  Inglis  preached  at  the 
first  service,  Mr.  Annand  at  the  second  (John  of 
course  translating),  good  Gospel  truth  ; and  Dr. 
Steele  gave  us  a White  sermon  in  the  evening  in 
the  Drawing-Room,  upon  the  Prayer  of  Jahez.  The 
language  was  very  beautiful,  and  the  Doctor  suited 
himself  to  his  audience,  leaving  out  his  appeal  to 
unconverted  sinners  1 , . , 


190  HOME,  SWEET  HOME,  ON  AN1WA 

I had  nearly  forgotten  to  tell  you  that  the  Synod 
were  unanimous  in  sanctioning  John’s  return  to 
Australia,  at  the  end  of  the  year,  in  accordance  with 
the  Victorian  invitation.  He  is  bound  to  keep  his 
mouth  shut  for  six  months  ; then,  if  he  is  able,  to  visit 
the  Churches,  and  not  come  back  to  the  Islands  till 
after  the  next  hot  season.  The  Mission  Vessel  is 
not  to  be  sent  to  Victoria  till  then  to  tempt  him  to 
speechify,  so  it  goes  to  Sydney  this  year  as  usual, 
and  next  to  Melbourne,  Adelaide,  and  Tasmania.  Our 
hearts  beat  at  the  prospect  of  seeing  our  boys  again  ; 
but  still  I would  prefer  to  remain  here  for  many 
reasons.  I believe  in  the  inclination  of  people , as 
well  as  things,  to  rest ; for  I shrank  from  leaving 
Australia  when  we  were  there,  and  now  it  seems  such 
a pity  to  turn  out  of  our  home  again.  If  John  feels 
much  better,  he  says  he  will  remain  ; but  our  God 
will  lead  and  guide  us  as  He  would  have  us  go. 

Every  one  in  the  house  is  asleep,  and  my  eyes  will 
hardly  keep  open  ; so  I must  say  Good-night  to  you 
all.  With  heart’s  love  from  your  ever  loving  daughter 
and  sister, 


M.  Wiiitecross  Paton. 


XII 


THE  MISSION  FORCES  AT  WORK 
(to  the  family  circle) 

Aniwa,  New  Hebrides, 

November  2nd,  1S74. 

My  dearest  Sisters  and  Brothers,— About 
half  an  hour  ago,  we  decided  finally,  after  much 
earnest  prayer,  that  it  was  our  duty  to  remain  on 
Aniwa,  instead  of  going  to  the  Colonies  a fortnight 
hence  in  the  Day  spring  (the  Paragon  re-christened), 
as  we  had  fondly  anticipated.  So  John  and  I are 
both  in  the  Study,  setting  to  work  vigorously  with 
our  pens,  instead  of  packing  boxes. 

I felt  strongly  tempted  not  to  write  the  Family- 
Epistle  this  time.  It  does  seem  so  hard  to  leave  out 
my  precious  Mother’s  name  ! But,  in  one  way,  she 
is  nearer  us  than  ever  ; indeed,  I cannot  divest 
myself  of  the  feeling  that  she  sees  and  knows  all 
about  us,  with  joy,  instead  of  the  anxiety  she  used  to 
feel  on  our  account  while  here  on  Earth. 

You  are  waiting  patiently,  I suppose,  to  hear  the 
reasons  for  our  non-appearance  ; and,  oh,  how  I wish 
I could  make  you  see  them  as  we  do  ! The  path  of 

191 


192 


THE  MISSION  FORCES  AT  WORK 


Duty  to  us  both  now  seems  so  plain,  for  we  have 
asked  the  Lord  for  direction,  and  conferred  not  with 
flesh  and  blood  (there  isn’t  any  flesh  and  blood  of  our 
own  kind  here  to  confer  with  !),  but  gave  our  wills  to 
Him.  Certainly,  we  do  not  follow  our  own  inclina- 
tions, which  would  lead  us  to  Australia,  and  right  on 
to  our  boys — and  God  only  knows  the  gnawing  at 
our  hearts  sometimes  for  one  sight  of  them ! But 
they  could  not  be  better  cared  for,  or  have  more 
privileges,  than  where  they  are  ; and,  were  we  to 
leave  our  Darkies,  they  would  have  literally  no  one  to 
care  for  their  souls.  Of  course,  I know,  God  cares 
for  them  ; but  we  could  not  ask  Him  to  work  a 
special  miracle  on  their  behalf,  when  He  has  removed 
to  a great  extent  the  one  grand  objection  to  our 
remaining  here— I mean  John’s  ill  health.  He  is  not, 
indeed,  in  perfect  health,  as  the  Children  and  I are  ; 
but  his  rheumatism  is  in  abeyance,  owing,  we  believe, 
under  God,  to  the  acetic  acid  ; and  the  faint,  breath- 
less fits  now  seldom  come.  Every  other  way  he  is 
strong  and  well,  and,  as  usual,  going  through  a vast 
amount  of  work. 

Ever  since  the  Dayspring  left,  with  Dr.  Steele  and 
our  mail  for  Sydney,  four  months  ago,  Mission 
work  has  been  going  on  like  steam  here  ; and  we  are 
both  as  busy  and  as  happy  as  the  day  is  long,  having 
almost  more  teaching  than  we  can  manage,  as  the 
Natives  are  turning  out  better  than  they  have  ever 
done  since  we  came  to  Aniwa.  The  Young  Men 
too,  whom  we  might  reasonably  have  expected  to  be 


SCHOOLS  AND  SCHOLARS 


93 


our  pests,  have  now  become  the  most  eager  to  learn, 
to  John’s  immense  delight! 

Besides  the  little  Village  Schools,  we  have  School 
three  times  a day  at  the  Mission  Station.  The  first  is 
at  daybreak,  which  one  of  the  Teachers  conducts, 
specially  for  Reading , which  the  Natives  are  awfully 
slow  to  learn.  Then,  after  breakfast,  comes  my 


A SCHOOL  HOUSE  ON  ANIWA. 


Sewing  Class,  twice  a week,  which  continues  for 
about  three  hours,  and  the  average  attendance  is 
thirty,  which  is  good  for  this  time  of  the  year,  when 
they  are  busy  yam-planting.  Our  fine  broad  verandah 
has  been  my  School-Room  now  for  years,  as  1 used 
to  get  so  faint,  when  we  crowded  inside.  I carry  it 
on  in  the  old  way,  and  give  each  woman  or  girl  a 
dress,  or  print  to  make  one,  who  has  attended  three 

13 


194 


THE  MISSION  FORCES  AT  WORK 


months  without  missing  a day  ; and  this,  for  a long 
time,  they  firmly  believed  to  be  payment  for  helping 
me  to  sew  ! John’s  School  comes  on  after  dinner, 
and  continues  about  two  hours.  He  commenced  it 
for  the  improvement  of  Teachers  and  their  wives 
and  those  who  could  already  read  fluently.  It  has 
increased  to  forty-seven  Scholars  ; so  that  he  is  glad 
to  let  me  take  the  Writing  Class  entirely  off  his 
hands,  which  are  full  enough  with  reading,  ciphering, 
and  giving  out  next  day’s  lessons. 

By  far  the  most  interesting,  as  well  as  laborious 
part  of  the  work,  however,  is  with  our  own  Native 
Boys  and  Girls,  who  live  with  us.  They  now  number 
fourteen.  I think  we  had  only  ten  or  eleven  when  I 
wrote  last.  Besides  all  their  other  duties,  they  each 
bring  an  Essay,  twice  a week,  neatly  written  on  a sheet 
of  paper  with  a lead  pencil.  They  give  them  in,  after 
evening  Native  Worship,  which  we  have  in  the  Dining- 
Room  ; and  John  reads  them  aloud,  corrects  the 
spelling,  etc.,  and  furnishes  them  with  fresh  paper, 
and  pencils  if  need  be.  The  little  ones,  and  some  big 
ones  too,  who  are  not  the  length  of  writing  Essays, 
fill  theirs  with  small  words  or  rows  of  letters.  I don’t 
know  that  I am  right  in  calling  them  Essays,  for 
there  are  no  particular  subjects  given  out  as  yet. 
But  they  certainly  are  compositions  after  a sort,  and 
their  own  too  ; for,  the  literature  of  Aniwa  being  so 
very  circumscribed,  they  can’t  cheat  us  by  copying 
out  of  books  ! They  are  never  at  any  loss,  however, 
except  sometimes  to  get  all  crushed  into  one  sheet ; 


ESS  A YS 


195 


and  it  is,  of  all  others,  the  exercise  they  like  best,  and 
are  most  careful  to  prepare. 

We  thoroughly  enjoy  those  Essay  Evenings  ; for 
some  of  them  are  really  racy,  and  supply  in  a small 
degree  the  want  of  a local  newspaper.  They  catch 
at  any  little  exciting  incident  which  happens,  and  if 
there  is  bad  talk  going  on,  we  are  sure  to  get  it,  with 
their  decidedly-expressed  opinions  about  it  and  the 
authors  thereof.  We  were  greatly  amused,  one 
evening,  by  the  subject  of  one  of  those  effusions 
walking  in  at  rather  an  awkward  moment.  He  was 
a decent  man,  too,  one  of  our  Church  Members, 
who  happened  to  be  staying  over  the  night  at 
the  next  Village,  and  looked  in  upon  us.  I 
gathered  from  little  Litsi’s  (cousin  of  Litsi  the 
greater)  alarmed  looks,  and  the  suppressed  merriment 
of  the  other  Girls,  that  she  had  been  making  free  with 
his  name  in  her  Essay,  which  John  was  just  beginning 
to  read.  So  we  telegraphed  that  it  would  be  neces- 
sary to  look  before  reading  and  to  skip  personal 
allusions.  These  were  that  “ Simoria  (the  gentleman 
in  question)  had  scolded  some  of  the  women  for  not 
dressing  properly  ; while  Nabowsi,  his  own  wife,  had 
been  seen  with  a mere  apology  for  a garment  thrown 
across  her  shoulders.”  And  Litsi  was  strongly  of 
opinion  that  “ Simoria  should  have  seen  to  his  own 
wife,  before  attacking  other  people’s  ! ” 

John  occasionally  gives  out  the  subject.  Once  he 
told  them  to  write  all  they  knew  of  the  Stars  ; and  it 
was  wonderful  how  many  of  them  they  could  name — 


196 


THE  MISSION  FORCES  AT  WORK 


Native  names,  of  course — far  more  than  I ever  knew. 
But  you  will  form  a better  idea  of  their  style  by  my 
enclosing  an  ordinary  specimen  ; and,  if  time  permit, 
a translation.  This  has  been  a means  of  improvement 
to  us  all,  as  well  as  to  the  Natives  ; for  it  is  wonderful 
how  many  new  words  we  have  got,  especially  little 
ones,  as  well  as  prefixes  and  affixes,  which  in  their 
rapid  utterance,  as  to  us  it  seems,  we  had  never 
observed. 

I dare  say  this  earnest  fit  will  wear  off  them  by- 
and-bye  ; but,  meanwhile,  they  are  hardly  ever  to  be 
seen  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays  without  paper  and 
pencil,  to  which  every  spare  moment  is  devoted. 
They  allow  almost  nothing  to  interfere  with  that 
duty,  ingenious  as  they  are  sometimes  in  finding 
excuses  for  others.  For  instance,  when  the  Dayspring 
returned  from  her  last  Colonial  trip,  we  got  a sight  of 
her  well-known  sail  the  afternoon  before  she  arrived  ; 
and,  immediately  after  tea,  the  whole  fourteen  of  them 
were  squeezed  round  the  Dining-Room  table,  hard  at 
work  writing.  I asked  what  in  the  world  they  meant, 
as  the  Essays  were  not  to  be  given  in  till  to-morrow, 
and  they  could  write  them  in  the  daylight.  They 
replied,  “ O Missi,  just  let  us  sit  here  with  the  lamp 
till  the  Worship,  for  there  will  be  no  time  to-morrow 
when  the  Vessel  is  here,  and  we  must  have  our  books 
written.” 

I truly  envied  them,  that  they  could  compose 
themselves  at  all  ; for  our  hearts  were  beating  at  the 
thought  of  the  Dayspring  lying  so  near,  with  mails 


A WELCOME  DELAY 


197 


from  Home  on  board  ! No  one,  in  your  Civilization, 
can  ever  realize  what  a thing  of  hope  and  life  the 
sight  of  a Vessel  is  to  us  away  here.  To  admire, 
with  the  feelings  we  had  that  evening,  from  the 
verandah,  and  through  the  opening  made  in  the  trees 
by  the  hurricane,  our  beautiful  new  Dayspring — the 
one  visible  link  between  us  and  the  Christian  world 
— lying  almost  becalmed  in  the  distance,  with  her 
sails  spread,  and  a gorgeous  sunset  behind  her,  you 
would  need  to  have  gone  through  our  experience  in 
this  lonely  island.  We  stood  and  watched  her  till  it 
was  dark,  little  dreaming  she  contained  the  sad  tidings 
of  my  beloved  Mother’s  death. 

Next  morning,  we  were  up  with  the  earliest  day- 
break to  receive  our  visitors,  who,  however,  did  not 
arrive  till  the  afternoon— there  was  so  little  wind. 
We  had  such  a refreshing  visit  from  the  Watts  and 
Murrays — the  former  on  their  return  from  their 
fortnight’s  visit  to  Sydney,  and  the  latter  going  round 
the  Islands  on  Deputation  work  ; also  from  our  old 
friend  Mr.  McArthur,  the  mate  of  the  Vessel.  But,  by 
far  the  most  important  visitors,  in  Minn  and  Frank’s 
estimations,  were  little  Georgie  Murray  and  two  cats, 
brought  for  them  all  the  way  from  Sydney  by  one  of 
the  Sailors  ! 

After  tea,  the  Captain  made  his  appearance,  and 
was  besieged  with  entreaties  to  allow  his  passengers 
a quiet  night  on  shore,  but  he  only  laughed  at  the 
idea.  It  was  our  turn,  however,  to  laugh,  when  we 
stood  at  the  Boat  Wharf  an  hour  afterwards,  among 


198 


THE  MISSION  FORCES  AT  WORK 


the  flaming  torches  of  the  Natives  (we  had  a torch- 
light procession,  for  it  was  pitch  dark,  no  moon), 
gazing  out  into  the  darkness  for  the  Vessel’s  lights, 
which  were  nowhere  to  be  seen  ; nothing  visible  but 
the  glare  of  torches,  lighting  up  the  dark  faces  of 
the  Natives  and  reflected  on  the  black  water  at  our 
feet,  with  the  grand  old  Volcano  over  at  Tanna — a 
magnificent  sight,  in  the  blackness  of  darkness, 
through  its  bright  red  smoke,  and  every  few  minutes 
bursts  of  flame  and  great  fiery  sparks  shooting  far 
into  the  heavens. 

One  of  the  Sailors  ashore,  an  old  Man-o'- War’s 
man  and  the  donor  of  the  pussies,  seemed  to  think 
it  rather  a wild-goose  chase,  not  to  say  a dangerous 
one,  to  set  out  in  search  of  a Vessel  in  the  dark  ; so 
we  had  our  way  after  all,  and  were  not  sorry  to  have 
had  the  walk,  which  we  all  so  thoroughly  enjoyed. 
The  Captain,  of  course,  was  fidgety  about  his  Ship  ; 
but  McArthur  had  gone  on  board,  in  whom  he  had 
the  fullest  confidence  ; and  we  did  so  enjoy  the 
evening’s  conversation  with  our  dear  friends — not 
going,  you  may  be  sure,  to  rest  any  earlier  than  usual ! 

My  Girls  did  splendidly,  and  got  beds  made  up  for 
our  Guests,  nine  in  all,  with  not  very  much  help  from 
me.  Next  morning  dawned  so  bright  ; the  Vessel 
sailed  close  in  ; and  all  got  comfortably  off  after 
breakfast,  with  half  a cow,  killed  in  honour  of  the 
visit,  and  which  they  got  more  good  of,  on  board, 
than  the  whole  cow  which  John  gave  them  at  the 
Synod,  for  it  jumped  overboard  and  was  drowned  ! 


A MOTHER'S  DEATH 


199 


We  had  three  days’  hard  reading  at  our  mail,  for 
it  was  a large  one  ; the  great  Adelaide  packets  being 
speedily  devoured  first,  and  those  precious  pages 
from  Mother,  forty-six  in  all,  telling  about  our  Boys 
and  their  Cousins,  her  Gaol-visiting,  the  Revival  work, 
etc.  I little  knew  of  the  sad  Telegram  that  John 
had  hidden  away  so  carefully  ; for  people  had  been 
very  thoughtful  about  us — at  least,  about  me — and 
Dr.  Steele’s  letter  of  sympathy,  which  contained  it, 
was  kept  separate  from  the  rest  of  our  mail  ; and 
McArthur  was  instructed  to  give  it  to  John,  when  he 
saw  him  alone,  which  he  did  at  the  Boat  Wharf  on 
landing.  Poor  John’s  thoughts  flew  to  Bob  and  Fred, 
when  he  was  told  the  letter  contained  bad  news,  and 
he  began  to  show  signs  of  fainting.  But  dear  Mr. 
Watt,  divining  his  thoughts,  assured  him  of  their 
welfare,  and  told  him  what  had  happened.  All  the 
news  that  reached  my  ears  when  we  met  at  the  gate, 
where  I was  waiting  to  welcome  my  visitors,  was 
the  hearty  Peggy,  your  Boys  are  well!  and  it  was  a 
glad  heart  I lifted  silently  to  God,  dreaming  not  that 
anything  else  sorrowful  could  have  happened,  when 
they  were  all  right. 

I felt,  however,  through  it  all,  that  mute  sympathy 
was  being  shown  to  me  by  our  visitors,  and  there 
was  no  mistaking  its  drift  and  presence  in  the  Family 
prayers.  And,  at  length,  the  truth  came  upon  me 
suddenly  enough,  two  days  later,  notwithstanding  all 
dear  John’s  thoughtful  care.  Mrs.  Neilson  had  written 
me  a note  of  sympathy,  and  that  had  been  overlooked, 


200 


THE  MISSION  FORCES  AT  WORK 


till  I fell  upon  it  unawares.  The  Natives,  poor  things, 
were  so  kind  ; and  when  John  told  some  women  who 
wanted  me  that  I could  not  be  seen,  and  explained  the 
reason,  one  of  our  little  Girls  slipped  into  the  Bed- 
Room  and  said,  with  the  tears  in  her  eyes,  “ Missi,  was 
it  the  Mother  who  gave  you  birth?”  A real  Native 
question  ! Mother  has  such  a wide  meaning  here,  and 
may  include  an  Aunt,  or  other  near  friend. 

How  we  long  for  the  particulars  of  our  dear 
Mother’s  last  days ! We  can  hardly  realize,  even 
yet,  that  she  is  now  with  her  Lord,  to  whom  her 
whole  soul  was  so  devoted.  It  is  so  hard  to  part 
with  such  a Mother ; but  my  first  thought,  dear 
Helen,  was  for  you,  with  your  beloved  husband  so  far 
away.  Litsi  and  Hutshi  cried  sorely  ; and  even 
some  of  the  Natives  who  never  saw  her,  for  they 
heard  the  others  speak  of  her  so  often.  We  both 
feel  thankful  that  our  Boys  were  privileged  to  be 
with  her  all  these  months. 

I must  not,  however,  fill  this  paper  with  my  own 
feelings  alone,  when  I have  so  many  things  to  write 
to  you.  I think  the  next  event  of  importance,  after 
the  visit  of  the  Day  spring,  was  Hutshi’s  marriage, 
a few  weeks  after,  with  Nelwang,  her  first  love.  It 
was  quite  an  exciting  time,  as  it  is  years  since  any 
of  my  Girls  were  married  before  ; or,  to  use  the  Native 
description,  Got  up  in  ChurcJi.  Both  Bride  and 
Bridegroom  were  dressed  out  of  the  Adelaide  Mission 
Box,  which  came  safely  in  the  Dayspring,  along  with 
our  mail,  and  another  box  from  Miss  Glen  in  Scot- 


THE  MARRIAGE  OF  HUTS II I 


201 


land,  so  that  we  felt  quite  prepared  for  any  number 
of  weddings  ! 

Hutshi  chose  one  of  those  bright  purple  skirts  and 
jackets,  and  one  of  the  little  white  hats  I trimmed 
with  purple  and  yellow  silk,  mixed  with  white  tulle, 
which  Fanny  sent  in  Miss  Glen’s  box.  Nelwang 
chose  a very  nice,  quiet,  grey  suit.  My  other  Girls 
all  got  new  hats  and  dresses  for  the  occasion,  so  the 
Church  was  quite  gay,  that  Wednesday  afternoon, 
when  they  were  married  at  the  close  of  the  Prayer 
Meeting  ; and  they  behaved  very  well  during  the 
ceremony,  which  was  a terrible  ordeal  to  the  Bride- 
groom. He  had  been  living  in  terror  of  it  for  weeks 
before,  afraid,  as  he  told  me  confidentially,  that  the 
people  would  laugh  at  him  ! 

We  feared,  rather,  that  some  of  the  Young  Men 
would  do  more  than  laugh  ; for  a marriage  on  these 
Islands,  even  on  Aneityum,  where  women  are  so 
very  scarce,  creates  a deal  of  rage  and  ill-feeling. 
We  killed  a large  cow,  however,  to  be  divided  over 
the  whole  island,  and  ostensibly  in  honour  of  one  of 
our  Girls  being  married,  but  really  to  sweeten  the 
hearts  of  some  of  the  disappointed  suitors,  who,  we 
hoped,  would  hardly  feel  inclined  for  deeds  of  revenge 
upon  the  fortunate  Bridegroom,  while  smacking  their 
lips  over  roast  beef,  which  they  are  quite  as  fond  of 
as  any  Englishman. 

For  many  days  before,  poor  Hutshi’s  heart  was 
full,  and  she  could  hardly  keep  back  the  tears  when 
we  spoke  to  her.  She  protested  that  she  could  not 


202 


THE  MISSION  FORCES  AT  WORK 


leave  us.  We  reminded  her  that  it  was  only  three 
minutes’  walk  from  our  gate  to  her  future  Home  ; 
and  I provided  her  with  a few  things  “ to  set  up 
house  with,”  such  as  a tin  washing-basin,  bar  of 
soap,  looking-glass,  couple  of  tin  plates,  spoons,  jugs, 
saucepan,  etc.,  with  which  she  was  much  delighted. 
But  she  cried  bitterly,  the  day  before  the  wedding, 
when  one  of  the  neighbours  came  to  carry  away 
her  box  and  things  from  the  Girls’  house  ; and,  the 
same  evening,  she  brought  me  a nicely  written  and 
most  touching  little  letter,  thanking  us  for  all  we 
had  done  and  for  taking  her  to  Australia  ; and,  after 
saying  how  sad  she  was  to  leave  us,  she  gave  her 
love  to  each  one  of  us  by  name,  and  said  her  heart 
remembered  Bob  and  Fred  this  night  and  loved  them 
and  cried  about  them,  and  also  that  she  remembered 
Captain  Jenkins’  kindness  to  her  on  board.  John 
and  I were  so  touched  and  gratified,  that  our  eyes 
were  rather  misty  by  the  time  we  came  to  the  last 
lines.  Hutshi  has  been  with  us  about  six  years  now  ; 
and  we  told  her  that  our  fondest  wishes  for  her  would 
be  realized  if  she  would  but  begin  her  married  life 
with  God. 

My  other  Girls  are  all  doing  well ; and  two  more 
have  been  added  to  our  care,  since  I last  wrote.  I 
can’t  say,  though,  that  they  always  come  from  the 
purest  motives.  Nagitshi,  one  of  the  two  little  Girls, 
came  to  us  suffering  greatly  from  a loathsome  disease, 
which  I must  not  name,  and  I instantly  shrunk  back 
from  having  her  near  us.  But,  after  a few  moments’ 


“ NATIVES  HAVE  HEARTS"  203 

reflection,  we  took  her  as  from  God,  though  I was 
in  perfect  terror  of  infection,  for  my  own  Children’s 
sake,  as  well  as  for  the  Natives.  John  at  once  set 
to  work  anointing  her  carefully  ; and  the  elder  Girls 
and  I made  warm  clothing,  as  the  cold  then  was 
intense  for  Aniwa,  and  she  was  shivering.  I gave 
her  a warm  blanket  to  sleep  in,  and  plenty  of  nourish- 
ing food,  managing  to  keep  her  from  touching  things 
about  the  house  or  the  Children,  without  hurting 
her  feelings,  as  in  that  case  she  would  have  bolted. 
So,  after  a few  weeks  of  great  care,  she  perfectly 
recovered  ; about  which  time,  her  worthy  father,  a 
returned  Queensland  labourer,  came  and  demanded 
payment  for  the  use  we  had  had  of  his  little  daughter  ! 
He  was  made  thoroughly  to  comprehend  how  matters 
stood,  however,  and  has  made  no  more  demands  since, 
while  the  little  Girl  is  getting  on  fast,  though  only 
about  seven  years  of  age,  being  naturally  quick. 

It  is  these  dear  Girls  and  Boys,  under  our  own 
especial  charge,  to  whom  our  hearts  cling  the  most. 
They  regard  us  with  such  true  affection,  the  elder 
ones  especially,  and  how  could  we  turn  them  adrift  ? 
People  may  say  of  Natives  what  they  will  ; but,  give 
them  a proper  chance,  and  they’ll  show  they’ve  got 
hearts.  I could  wish,  though,  they  had  a more 
judicious  way  of  showing  it  just  at  present ; for, 
every  time  they  think  of  the  parting  with  our 
Children,  my  Girls  take  them  away  and  stuff  them 
with  cocoanuts  and  Native  puddings,  till  they  are 
sick ! Bob  and  Fred  are  fondly  remembered  too  ; 


204 


THE  MISSION  FORCES  AT  WORK 


and,  the  other  day,  an  old  woman,  who  brought  two 
finely  plaited  baskets  to  be  sent  to  Fred,  just  managed 
to  steady  her  voice  to  say  who  they  were  for,  and 
then  burst  into  tears.  As  we  have  only  now  decided, 
ourselves,  about  staying,  the  Natives  do  not  yet  know, 
and  1 so  long  to  tell  them  ; but  John  thinks  it  will  be 
nicer  to  announce  it  after  the  Communion,  which  we 
are  to  have  on  Sabbath,  first. 

Oh,  how  we  long  to  be  able  to  tell  you  of  a still 
deeper  work  among  our  Natives,  a thirsting,  not  after 
knowledge  only,  but  after  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ! 
There  is  none  of  that  very  apparent  yet ; and  I was 
writing  dear  Mrs.  Inglis  lately,  that  it  was  perhaps 
only  the  prospect  of  our  leaving  that  drew  the 
Natives  out,  but  she  answers  me  that  it  is  nothing 
of  the  sort,  but  the  Lord  Jesus  Himself  working  in 
them,  and  drawing  them  to  us  first  and  then  to  Him- 
self through  us.  And  Mr.  Inglis  writes  to  John  that 
he  believes  we  are  already  feeling  the  effects  of  the 
blessed  work  at  Home  and  the  prayers  of  God’s 
people  ; for  they  are  much  encouraged  on  Aneityum 
just  now,  having  admitted  fifty-six  new  Members  to 
the  Church,  a few  weeks  ago.  We  confidently  look 
to  the  Lord  to  manifest  Himself  to  the  hearts  of 
these  benighted  ones,  as  He  has  done  to  so  many  in 
the  Old  Country. 

Oh,  how  intensely  we  are  interested  in  all  accounts 
of  the  blessed  work  going  on  at  Home  ! Dear  Mrs. 
Milne  was  writing  me,  that  it  seems  to  her  that  a 
great  deal  of  the  Revival  has  been  in  the  hearts  of 


DIG  IN  CHRIST-' 


205 


God’s  own  people,  getting  a more  exalted  view  of  the 
Lord  Jesus  Christ,  and  seeing  everything  in  Him — all 
the  fulness  of  the  Godhead,  all  their  Salvation  and 
all  their  desire.  We  are  both  so  delighted  with 
Philip  Phillips’s  Song  Life , and  indignant  enough  to 
see  it  sneered  at  in  one  of  the  Home  papers,  because 
it  gives  the  worship  to  Christ  instead  of  God  ! As  if 
Christ  were  not  very  God,  God  Manifest ; or  as  if 
there  were  any  other  God  to  worship,  but  the  God 
who  is  “ in  ” Christ  reconciling  the  world  unto  Him- 
self. Oh,  if  people  would  but  take  the  Lord’s  own 
words,  since  they  won’t  take  the  other  parts  of  the 
Bible — “ He  that  receiveth  Me  receiveth  Him  that 
sent  Me.” 

It  is  pitiable  to  read  of  “a  tendency  to  that  Uni- 
tarianism  which  virtually  excludes  the  Father  and 
the  Holy  Spirit.”  It  has  been  the  joy  of  my  life, 
since  I found  that  it  was  impossible  to  have  Christ 
without  having  the  Father  and  the  Spirit,  for  “in 
Him  dwelleth  all  the  fulness  of  the  Godhead  bodily.” 
A sinner  can’t  even  come  to  Christ  without  the 
Father  and  the  Spirit  being  engaged  in  it  : “No  man 
can  come  to  Me,  except  the  Father  which  hath  sent 
Me  draw  him.”  . . . “No  man  can  say  Jesus  Christ 
is  Lord  but  by  the  Holy  Ghost.”  How  I wish  I had 
known,  or  felt,  all  this  years  ago  ; for  it  is  just  in 
proportion  as  I dig  in  Christ,  as  Trail  puts  it,  that  I 
can  know  anything  of  God  ; and  it  is  only  when  I 
speak  of  that  Name  which  is  above  every  name  that 
my  lips  arc  unsealed  to  the  Natives.  John  and  I 


206 


THE  MISSION  FORCES  AT  WORK 


were  reading  such  a precious  sermon  lately,  showing 
that  it  is  only  when  the  glory  of  God  is  revealed  “ in 
the  face  of  Christ  Jesus”  that  Satan  is  up  in  arms. 
He’ll  let  you  alone  as  long  as  you  talk  vaguely  about 
God  or  good  works  ; he’ll  even  let  you  denounce 
“ Sin,”  and  talk  about  the  “ Church  ” or  the  “ Bible  ” — 
anything  but  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  for  therein  lies 
danger ! 

It  is  getting  very  late,  and  I have  been  so  often 
interrupted  to-day  that  I fear  this  can’t  be  very 
coherent ; but  I well  know  you  would  rather  have 
anything  than  nothing  ; so  I send  it  as  it  is,  with  all 
heart’s  love, 

From  your  loving  sister, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 

P.S. — Forgot  to  say  that  we  have  got  up  a fine 
new  Aniwa  Printing  Office,  and  John  has  printed 
a new  edition  of  our  Aniwan  Catechism.  Also  a 
“ Smiddy,”  or  Smith’s  Shop!  ! — M.  W.  P. 


XIII 

THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 
(to  the  family  circle) 

Emerald  Hill,  Melbourne, 

November  yd,  1875. 

My  dearest  Sisters  and  Brothers, — If  I could 
only  put  one  of  the  earthquakes  we’ve  had  into  this 
journal  it  would  produce  a sensation — descriptions 
seem  so  very  tame  after  one  has  experienced  the 
awful  feelings  they  produce ! But  I must  begin  and 
go  forward  as  best  I can,  there  being  no  possibility  of 
gratifying  you  in  that  direction. 

You  know,  it  was  not  till  very  near  the  time  of  the 
Vessel’s  sailing  that  we  decided  last  year  to  remain  ; 
and  I sent  my  last  “ Journal  ” on  board  with  an  aching 
heart.  We  had  been  so  nearly  going  to  see  our 
precious  Boys,  and  till  I saw  the  Dayspring  slowly 
disappear  in  the  distance  I did  not  know  how  intensely 
my  heart  had  been  set  upon  seeing  them ! And 
instead,  we  were  left  with  the  tidings  of  their  illness, 
which  reached  us  in  the  letters  left  behind  for  us  on 
that  day.  Our  work  too  that  evening  was  rather  sad, 
for  not  being  able  to  purchase  nearly  enough  biscuits 

207 


208 


THE  YEAR  OE  THE  HURRICANE 


and  lice  from  the  Vessel  for  our  Natives  (some  three 
or  four  casks  was  all  the  Captain  could  spare),  we 
had  to  dismiss  a lot  of  our  Boys.  They  offered  to 
stay  without  food,  but  we  knew  that  could  not  be, 
and,  not  having  the  heart  to  say  who  were  to  go,  we 
left  it  to  themselves  to  settle,  saying  we  could  only 
keep  three.  So,  after  some  consultation,  they  told  us 
that  the  newest  comers  had  the  best  right  and  the 
most  need  to  remain. 

To  crown  all,  John  got  very  ill  and  sank  so  low 
that  we  feared  he  might  not  live  to  see  the  return  of 
the  Dayspring.  But  all  the  time  I had  an  inward 
conviction  that  God  had  not  kept  him  on  Aniwa  just 
to  die,  after  giving  us  such  encouragement  to  remain, 
and  we  had  waited  so  confidingly  upon  Him  just  to 
show  us  the  way.  And  He  did  not  keep  us  long  in 
suspense,  for  one  event  transpired  after  another  to 
show  how  wisely  we  had  been  guided. 

The  first  of  these  happened  about  a month  after 
the  Vessel  left  and  as  John  was  slowly  recovering 
from  his  illness.  We  heard,  one  lovely  day,  as  I was 
setting  the  copies  for  afternoon  School  (I  managed 
to  keep  it  going  all  the  time),  a cry  of  Sail  O ! which 
set  us  all  into  a fine  pitch  of  excitement.  School  was 
the  last  thing  to  be  thought  of,  and  the  Natives 
scampered  off  towards  the  other  end  of  the  island, 
where  the  Vessel  lay.  John  was  unable  to  walk  so 
far  ; but  you  may  be  sure  we  were  quite  on  the 
qui  vive  for  news,  and  I waylaid  the  first  returning 
Native,  who  shouted  to  me  in  Aniwan  : “ Missi,  what 


THE  TANNESE  REFUGEES  209 

do  you  think  has  happened  ? A whole  shipload  of 
Tannese,  men,  women,  and  children,  have  been  driven 
off  their  own  island  by  war,  and  have  come  over  to 
live  on  this  little  island,  because  the  Worship  is 
strong  and  they  know  they  are  safe.  They  are  many 
in  number  for  the  people  of  Aniwa  ; and  where  are 
we  to  get  food  for  them,  Missi,  for  they  had  to 
escape  at  night  with  what  little  baggage  they  could 
bring  in  the  Vessel?” 

Another  Native  soon  after  arrived  with  letters  from 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Neilson,  confirming  the  report,  and  we 
were  rather  dumfouiidered  at  this  turn  of  events  ; 
but,  like  most  of  the  other  Missionaries,  when  they 
heard  of  it,  we  were  also  deeply  impressed  with  God’s 
mysterious  ways.  Tanna  was  the  island  upon  which 
John’s  whole  heart  was  set ; and  it  was  one  of  the 
bitterest  disappointments  of  his  life  when  the  Mission 
Synod  would  not  allow  him  to  return  there,  instead 
of  coming  to  Aniwa,  nine  years  ago  ; but  we  both 
felt  we  were  following  God  here,  and  now  He  had 
brought  the  Tannese  to  Aniwa,  for  those  who  had 
come  were  from  around  Port  Resolution,  and  some 
of  them  were  John’s  old  friends  ! 

Some  of  the  Islanders  themselves  were  as  much 
struck  with  the  event  as  we  were.  And  at  last 
Mission  Synod,  Mr.  Neilson  amused  all  the  Mission- 
aries by  giving  the  outline  of  a speech  made  upon 
the  occasion  by  one  of  the  Aneityumese  Teachers 
on  Tanna,  apt  as  all  Natives  are  in  drawing  illus- 
trations from  daily  life  to  point  their  addresses  on 

14 


210 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


Sabbath.  He  took  the  story  of  Joseph  for  his 
subject,  and  made  out  Missi  Paton  to  be  Joseph  driven 
from  Fauna  by  his  zvicked  brethren , the  Tanna  men  ; 
but  that  God  had  gone  with  him  to  Egypt,  alias 
Anivva,  and  prospered  him  and  the  land  for  his  sake, 
and  prepared  it  for  them  to  go  and  live  upon  and 
thus  save  much  people  alive ! 

Our  Natives  behaved  admirably.  The  Chiefs  and 
Church  Members  came  to  consult  John  about  it  that 
evening,  and  they  agreed  to  meet  next  morning  and 
go  in  a body  and  offer  among  their  different  villages 
homes  and  lands  for  the  refugees.  They  just  pled 
with  John  to  accompany  them,  offering  to  carry  him 
on  their  backs  (no  cabs,  you  know)  ; but  he  doesn’t 
care  for  that  mode  of  conveyance,  and  being  unable 
to  walk  so  far,  he  sent  me  in  his  place.  I did  not 
like  the  business,  and  tried  hard  to  get  out  of  it  ; but 
John  and  the  Natives  insisted — they  were  so  anxious 
to  let  the  poor  things  see  that  they  were  welcome. 
I got  through  the  performance,  grinning  and  shaking 
hands  with  all  the  women,  and  patting  every  child  on 
the  head,  some  of  whom  set  up  frightened  screams 
at  sight  of  a white  woman,  which  made  me  feel 
rather  awkward,  though  my  heart  did  go  out  to  those 
bonnie  little  curly  brown  pates  and  their  poor  mothers 
sitting  nursing  their  babies  in  a strange  land.  Most 
of  the  men  I skipped  (there  were  exactly  a hundred 
of  them  altogether,  men,  women,  and  children,  a big 
proportion  of  the  population  of  Aniwa) — they  looked 
so  thoroughly  bold  and  impudent,  and,  what  John  has 


NOWAR  AND  THE  HEATHEN 


21  1 


so  often  described  the  New  Hebrideans  in  Heathenism 
to  be,  “ naked  painted  Savages,”  whom  I never  do 
pretend  to  admire.  I must  except  two  or  three  ot 
the  men,  however,  and  dear  old  Nowar  at  their  head, 
who  looked  like  a gentleman,  with  his  short  hair — 
so  gray  now — no  ear-rings,  and  respectable  clothing. 
His  fine  old  face  just  beamed,  when  he  saw  me,  and 
he  told  me  to  tell  John  that  he  had  come  to  live  and 
die  with  his  own  dear  Missi. 

Nowar  applied  vigorously  for  Baptism,  which 
John  however  would  not  consent  to  without  first 
consulting  his  Missionary,  Mr.  Neilson  ; and  besides, 
the  rule  on  Aniwa  is  that  Candidates  for  Baptism 
first  attend  the  Communicants’  Class  for  twelve 
months.  His  conduct  on  Aniwa  has  been  that  of  a 
Christian  ; but  as  for  the  others,  instead  of  getting 
good  themselves,  their  influence  upon  our  Natives 
has  been  down-dragging,  especially  upon  some  of  our 
wilder  rogues,  who  have  only  given  in  to  the  changed 
state  of  Aniwa  because  they  are  obliged  to,  Chris- 
tianity having  become  the  law  of  the  land.  You  can 
easily  understand  how  a lot  of  vigorous  fellows,  with 
nothing  to  do,  away  from  their  own  island  and  their 
own  Missionary’s  influence,  and  full  of  Heathen  super- 
stition, never  having  attempted  to  learn  either  reading 
or  writing,  could  influence  those  whose  hearts  are 
not  changed  and  who  are  impatient  of  the  outward 
restraints  imposed  by  Christianity  upon  their  Heathen 
practices. 

John  immediately  set  to  work  revising  his  Tannese, 


212 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


which  he  had  well-nigh  forgotten,  so  that  when  the 
Tanna  gentry  declined  to  come  to  Church  he  was 
soon  able  to  go  to  them  and  first  read  his  addresses 
and  then  preach  to  them  in  Tannese.  How  it  did 
remind  us  of  the  early  Aniwan  days,  when  our 
worthy  Parishioners  used  to  enjoy  a pipe  or  a nap, 
as  they  lay  on  their  backs  listening  to  the  sermon  ! 

Their  curiosity  led  them  to  make  a fine  turn  out, 
the  first  Sabbath  after  they  came.  I was  touched  to 
see  the  marks  of  care  and  pains  bestowed  upon  the 
women  by  Mrs.  Neilson,  for  some  of  them  had  dresses 
put  on  so  neatly.  I know  from  experience  how  much 
has  to  be  done  ere  one  can  get  them  to  wear  clothing 
even  to  Church  ; and  it  must  have  been  so  trying  to 
have  them  run  off  just  when  labour  and  instruction 
were  beginning  to  tell. 

We  took  good  care  to  make  work  for  them  — 
weeding  waste  ground,  getting  reeds  for  fences,  etc. 
— so  that  they  might  earn  clothing  ; and  several  of 
them  took  advantage  of  it.  John  also  urged  the  men 
to  make  banana  plantations,  as  it  was  past  the  yam- 
planting season  and  they  were  likely  to  remain  a 
while.  He  gave  them  all  the  young  bananas  which 
he  could  spare,  for  them  to  plant.  And,  meanwhile, 
all  the  Aniwans  contributed  to  their  support,  which 
was  no  light  matter  for  this  barren  little  island.  But 
it  is  wonderful  how  they  have  all  managed  to  subsist, 
for  a month  after  they  came  we  had  the  most  terrific 
hurricane  that  ever  swept  over  Aniwa. 

The  Hurricane  began  in  earnest  about  noon  on 


FLIGHT  TO  THE  CELLAR 


213 


January  14th,  after  a heavy  thunderstorm  which  had 
blackened  the  air  all  the  morning.  As  we  sat  at 
dinner  the  wind  suddenly  became  furious  ; we  had 
to  jump  up  and  make  preparations,  as  the  house  was 
shaking  and  creaking,  the  thatch  standing  on  end, 
and  the  rain  pouring  in.  Immediately  trees,  fences, 
etc.,  began  to  occupy  a horizontal  position  ; so  the 
Children  and  I took  refuge  in  the  Study,  which 
seemed  to  stand  firmer  than  the  rest  of  the  house, 
and  from  the  windows  watched  the  progress  of  the 
storm — a magnificent  sight,  tall  trees  bending  and 
falling  before  the  awful  force  of  the  wind.  John 
came  in  greatly  dejected,  saying  that  if  it  continued 
much  longer  the  Church  would  go,  as  it  was  already 
bending,  notwithstanding  its  being  so  strongly 
propped.  There  was  a lull  just  then  in  the  storm, 
which  cheered  me ; but  his  more  experienced  eye 
led  him  to  pronounce  it  the  stillness  that  precedes 
a great  storm,  it  was  still  so  black  and  ominous. 
And  sure  enough,  just  before  dark,  a terrific  blast  sent 
us  flying  down  to  the  Cellar,  our  usual  place  of 
refuge. 

John  and  a couple  of  the  Girls  made  a final  attempt 
to  get  into  the  house  for  one  or  two  loaves  and 
whatever  else  they  could  grab — we  were  now  awfully 
hungry,  having  been  so  unceremoniously  interrupted 
at  our  dinner.  My  faithful  little  Cook  was  precipitated 
into  the  cellar  before  a great  blast,  puffing  and  panting 
and  holding  on  to  a kettle  of  boiling  water,  which 
was  an  unexpected  luxury  in  the  circumstances.  So 


214 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


we  managed  to  make  a very  jolly  meal  off  the  top 
of  a box  ; and  all  our  stores  being  in  the  cellar,  we 
got  hold  of  a tin  of  salmon — the  Girls  had  thought- 
fully brought  a great  basin  of  milk  for  the  Children — 
and  when  Frank  found  we  were  all  to  eat  the  salmon 
out  of  one  plate,  his  joy  knew  no  bounds,  and  he 
stuck  his  fork  into  the  biggest  bit  in  the  dish — which 
proved  too  large  for  his  wee  mouth,  causing  great 
merriment. 

The  storm  raged  till  midnight,  when  we  were 
thankful  to  get  up  to  our  beds,  and  found  our  own 
room,  fortunately,  the  only  habitable  part  of  the 
house.  But  oh,  what  utter  desolation  the  morning 
light  revealed  ! Our  fine  large  Church  a mass  of 
ruins,  with  one  great  pillar  standing  solitary  and 
upright  through  the  rubbish,  against  the  clear  blue 
sky.  The  School-House  in  the  same  condition,  at 
the  other  side  of  the  Imrai ( = public  meeting  ground). 
With  the  exception  of  our  Cook-House  and  Printing 
Office,  not  an  outhouse  was  left  standing  on  the 
Mission  Premises ; but  oh,  how  thankful  we  felt  that 
our  dwelling-house  stood  secure,  as  John  was  in  no 
condition  to  have  attempted  building  another.  Not 
even  a pane  of  glass  was  broken,  though,  of  course, 
the  roof  could  not  escape,  and  consequently  every- 
thing was  soaked.  The  day  proved  fortunately  very 
hot,  and  we  got  all  the  mats  lifted,  and  mattresses, 
blankets,  etc.,  washed  and  dried.  The  pigs  were  in 
their  glory,  running  riot  over  all  the  plantations,  and 
I am  sure  if  they  could  have  spoken  they  would  have 


WORSHIP  AMID  RUINS 


215 


said  in  Scotch,  “ It’s  an  ill  wind  that  blaws  naebody 
guid  ! ” 

Almost  every  Native  on  the  island  was  at  work 
before  daylight  at  his  fences — dwelling-houses,  and 
there  were  not  a dozen  standing  uninjured  on  the 
island,  being  left  till  the  plantations  were  secured. 
School  duties  were  not  even  thought  of.  It  was  so 
sad  to  see  the  destruction  of  food — fine  large  bread- 
fruit and  cocoanut  trees  torn  up  by  the  roots,  and 
bananas  with  the  fruit  half-formed  lying  useless  on 
the  ground.  But  the  greatest  lamentation  seemed 
to  be  about  the  7 'afari  M ord  (=  House  of  Worship), 
though  the  general  public  were  complacently  viewing 
it  as  a judgment  from  Tiapolo  (=  His  Satanic  Majesty, 
in  Aniwan),  for  their  being  so  sti'ong  for  the  Worship. 
This  is  a popular  error  ; and  John  guarded  them 
against  it  next  Sabbath,  preaching  an  impressive 
sermon  from  the  text,  “ Labour  not  for  the  meat 
which  perisheth  ” — rather  apropos  to  the  occasion  ! 

We  worshipped  under  a very  w'idespreading  Banyan 
Tree — which  however  was  no  shade,  the  hurricane 
having  left  the  trees  leafless — with  the  ruins  of  the 
Church  on  the  one  side,  and  of  the  School  on  the 
other.  John  told  them  at  the  close  that  we  would 
not  speak  of  a new  Church  for  a week  or  two,  till 
they  had  got  their  own  plantations,  etc.,  in  order  ; but 
after  that  they  did  set  to  work  with  a will  ; and  oh, 
I wish  you  could  have  seen  sometimes  forty  or  fifty 
of  them  bending  under  the  weight  of  a huge  tree, 
which  they  had  carried  two  or  three  miles  over  a 


2l6 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


precipitous  path,  and  drenched  in  perspiration.  We 
could  hear  the  joyous  noise  a long  way  off,  and  it 
ended  in  a triumphant  shout  as  they  laid  it  down 
at  the  Church.  I could  not  settle  to  anything  for 
running  out  to  watch  the  progress;  and  as  for  John 
he  had  to  be  everywhere  at  once,  directing  and 
working  as  hard  as  any  of  them.  The  Villages  all 
took  it  in  turns  to  provide  a feast  for  the  workers 
at  the  close  of  each  day  ; and  as  the  food  was  brought 
in  the  morning,  the  women  came  to  cook  it,  and  those 
who  could  be  spared  were  busy  plaiting  sugar-cane 
leaf  to  thatch  the  roof.  So  you  may  imagine  what 
a bee-hive  appearance  the  Imrai,  or  Public  Square, 
presented  ; and  how  sometimes  great  roars  of  laughter 
burst  forth,  at  some  woman  indignantly  pitching  a 
cocoanut  shell  at  a man  who  was  slily  running  off 
with  a choice  morsel  ! My  Girls  used  to  get  through 
their  work  in  the  morning,  and  run  to  help  ; and  I 
often  contributed  to  the  entertainment  with  an  enor- 
mous bucket  of  tea.  One  day,  when  a lot  of  Tannese 
were  helping,  they  had  as  many  as  fourteen  pigs 
cooked  and  eaten. 

They  wrought  so  hard  that,  after  five  Sabbaths  in 
the  open  air,  we  again  assembled  in  a new  building 
where  the  old  one  had  been  ; and,  though  by  no 
means  finished,  it  was  rendered  sufficiently  comfort- 
able to  worship  in — the  roof  nicely  thatched,  and 
the  framework  of  the  walls  covered  in  with  plaited 
cocoanut  leaves,  until  they  could  make  lime,  as  they 
resolved  to  have  a wood  and  plaster  building  this 


ANIWAN  TRAGEDY 


217 


time.  Of  course  the  whole  of  the  work  and  material 
was  given  gratis  ; but  John  promised  them  a large 
cow  for  a feast  when  all  was  finished— an  induce- 
ment to  the  lazy  ones  to  work  ! 

After  a week’s  rest,  they  began  again  to  collect 
coral  to  burn  for  lime,  which  is  heavy  labour,  as  the 
coral  has  all  to  be  dug  out  of  the  sea  with  crowbars, 
three  miles  off  at  Tiara,  and  boated  round.  Tiara 
is  a lovely  little  island,  adjoining  Aniwa,  where  the 
Children  and  I took  advantage  of  the  boat  to  do 
a little  picnicing,  their  Papa  being  always  with  us,  as 
he  had  to  superintend  a good  deal,  and  see  that  they 
did  not  smash  his  boat  right  up  amongst  the  reefs. 

All  were  getting  on  with  great  glee,  when  a sudden 
stop  was  put  to  everything  and  the  whole  island 
thrown  into  a ferment  by  two  wilful  and  cold-blooded 
murders,  which  took  place  on  the  morning  of  March 
2nd.  No  one  had  any  suspicion  of  what  was  going 
to  happen,  and  the  murdered  man  was  one  of  the 
most  active  on  the  day  before,  diving  for  coral  for 
the  Church.  He  was  the  son  of  such  good,  respect- 
able Church  Members,  though  not  one  himself — a 
fine  fellow,  attending  Church  regularly  with  his 
children  and  young  Tannese  wife,  whom  he  had  lately 
married,  and  who  was  murdered  along  with  him.  It 
is  supposed  that  she  was  the  ground  of  jealousy  that 
led  to  these  awful  deeds. 

Poor  Palesa  and  his  wife  went  to  bed  as  usual  ; 
and,  just  as  the  day  began  to  dawn,  the  two  murderers, 
an  Aniwan  and  a Tanna  man,  crept  quietly  to  their 


2l8 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


house  and  removed  the  cocoanut  leaves  at  the  door. 
Palesa  stirred  in  his  sleep  at  the  sound,  but  he  was 
shot  through  the  heart  before  he  awoke  to  conscious- 
ness. His  poor  wife  tried  to  hide,  but  was  shot  down 
by  the  other  villain,  and  hardly  spoke  during  the 
few  moments  she  lived.  Pa'esa  called  to  his  brother 
and  mother,  and  told  who  the  murderers  were,  while 
the  blood  was  spouting  out  at  his  heart,  and  then 
died  ; and  both  were  buried  in  the  grave  before  the 
breakfast  hour.  The  news  spread  like  wild-fire,  but 
not  correctly  at  first,  and  we  were  in  hopes  the 
wounds  were  not  mortal  ; so  John  hurried  off  to  the 
Village  with  bandages  and  everything  he  could  need, 
but  was  met  half-way  by  a Native  Teacher,  who  told 
him  they  had  just  been  buried. 

The  Chiefs  and  people  assembled  in  the  Imrai,  full 
of  consternation,  to  consider  what  was  to  be  done. 
The  scoundrels  were  hidden,  of  course,  and  the  punish- 
ment they  got  (the  destruction  of  all  their  property, 
except  food,  which  was  divided  among  the  people) 
was  no  more  than  they  could  afford  to  laugh  at,  as 
any  one  can  pick  up  a living  of  some  sort,  either  in 
the  bush  or  in  the  sea.  Oh,  how  an  event  of  this 
kind  teaches  one  to  prize  and  admire  British  law ! 
The  injured  party  were  afraid  to  stay  in  their  own 
Village,  not  knowing  what  might  happen  next,  and 
one  of  the  murderers  being  a Tanna  man,  the  whole 
of  the  Tannese  were  ready  to  back  him  up.  I sent 
for  the  friends  and  collected  every  scrap  of  black 
I could  find  for  mourning,  for  which  they  were  very 


HUTSHI  THE  VIXEN 


219 


anxious  ; and  John,  in  consideration  of  his  speedy 
return  to  the  Colonies,  parted  with  his  scuffy  blacks. 
The  old  mother  looked  twenty  years  older  ; her  hair 
had  turned  quite  grey  with  the  shock,  and  she  was 
perfectly  outworn  with  grief. 

It  was  altogether  a sad  time,  that,  for  we  had  been 
so  tried  with  Hutshi,  the  girl  I had  last  time  with 
me  in  Australia,  and  who  has  turned  out  a complete 


HUTSHI. 


vixen — the  first  of  my  Girls,  I am  thankful  to  say 
who  has  not  turned  out  well.  She  was  married  to 
one  of  our  best  young  lads,  and  went  quite  gracefully 
through  the  whole  affair — I think  I wrote  you  all 
about  it  before — but  all  the  while  she  was  dying  for 
my  handsome  young  Cook,  who  is  engaged  to  the 
little  table-maid.  She  began,  soon  after  the  marriage, 
to  persecute  her  husband  and  flirt  with  the  other, 
going  from  bad  to  worse,  notwithstanding  all  we  could 


220 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


say  to  her  ; and  one  day  she  behaved  so  frightfully, 
that,  when  we  were  told  of  her  guilt,  John  and  I sank 
down  on  the  nearest  seats,  perfectly  overpowered  with 
disappointment  and  horror.  I could  hardly  have 
believed  that  any  woman,  either  black  or  white,  could 
have  so  deliberately  planned  to  lead  others  so  young 
and  innocent  into  sin. 

The  young  Chief  came  to  ask  John  how  she  ought 
to  be  punished,  as  something  would  have  to  be  done  ; 
but  he  hesitated  to  give  advice,  never  having  been 
called  upon  to  legislate  in  a similar  case,  being  indeed 
too  vexed  to  collect  his  thoughts  ; only  he  strongly 
forbade  them  to  shoot  her,  as  one  or  two  of  the 
enraged  fathers  proposed,  and  advised  them  to  be 
guided  by  the  Aneityumese  Teachers,  two  wise 
Christian  men  from  Mr.  Inglis’s  Station.  They  said 
that  the  punishment  inflicted  on  Aneityum  by  the 
Chiefs  was  to  tie  up  the  guilty  parties,  collect  all  the 
goods  of  those  most  deeply  involved,  and  distribute 
them  among  the  people  at  the  other  side  of  the  island 
— so  as  not  to  tempt  those  around  to  bring  false 
accusations  against  neighbours  for  the  sake  of  their 
property. 

This  was  accordingly  done  in  the  case  of  Hutshi ; 
and  we  had  an  invitation  to  be  present  at  the  cere- 
mony, which  we  declined,  as  John  told  them  it  was 
better  he  should  not  be  too  much  mixed  up  in  these 
things.  The  only  way  in  which  he  did  interfere  was 
to  shorten  the  time  to  three  hours,  instead  of  the 
twenty-four  they  were  determined  to  keep  her  tied — 


IMPUDENCE  OUTWITTED 


and  which,  in  my  opinion,  she  richly  deserved  ! Two 
or  three  Tannese  happened  to  arrive  at  her  Village 
before  she  was  unloosed,  and  expressed  their  disgust 
at  the  consequences  entailed  by  the  Worship,  saying 
they  could  have  as  much  “ fun  ” on  Tanna  as  they 
liked  without  being  punished  for  it.  But  one  of  our 
Aniwans  answered,  with  a sly  wink  at  his  neighbours, 
that,  bad  as  the  Worship  might  be,  it  had  at  least  not 
driven  them  from  their  own  land  ! 

We  were  awfully  vexed  about  this  happening  with 
one  of  our  Girls,  as  everything  connected  with  the 
Mission  Station  is  so  talked  about,  and  the  worst 
characters  are  generally  the  most  censorious.  The 
father  of  one  of  my  little  Girls,  a wild  and  greedy 
fellow  who  wanted  to  be  paid  for  letting  me  attend 
and  nurse  her  through  an  illness  (!),  came  with  a 
grand  face,  expressing  his  horror  of  Hutshi’s  conduct, 
and  saying  he  must  take  away  his  little  Girl,  as  he 
could  not  think  of  letting  her  remain  to  follow  such 
an  example.  I was  both  amused  and  indignant,  but 
took  care  to  show  neither  feeling,  and  jumped  up 
pleasantly,  saying  I would  let  her  go  at  once  and  give 
her  one  or  two  of  her  dresses  home  with  her  (I  took 
care  to  make  no  mention  of  her  blanket-box,  which 
they  most  value),  as  she  had  been  an  attentive  Girl. 
The  man  looked  rather  dismayed  at  being  taken  so 
sharply  at  his  word,  and  muttered  something  to  the 
effect  that  his  daughter  might  not  wish  to  leave, 
whereupon  I expressed  my  horror  at  allowing  the  Girl 
to  disobey  her  father  for  a single  moment ! The  fact 


222 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


is,  that  it  suited  me  to  make  an  example  of  her,  for  I 
knew  that  owing  to  her  mother’s  health  she  would 
soon  have  been  taken  away  at  any  rate,  and  besides 
she  was  the  boldest  and  least  grateful  of  all  my  Girls. 
My  heart  smote  me,  however,  when  she  looked  up  at 
me  with  the  big  tears  in  her  eyes,  as  I was  taking  her 
hand  in  mine  to  say  Good-bye  after  giving  her  the 
little  bundle.  Yet  I felt  I could  not  rightly  do  any- 
thing else  ; and  I comforted  the  little  woman  by 
telling  her  I would  always  look  upon  her  as  one  of 
my  own  Girls,  and  that  she  was  not  to  hesitate  to  ask 
me  for  anything  she  wanted — a piece  of  advice  which 
I have  since  found  to  be  quite  unnecessary  ! 

I did  not  take  time  to  consult  John,  as  I had  them 
off  in  less  than  ten  minutes ; but  he  said  afterwards 
that  I had  acted  perfectly  right.  We  heard  the 
Natives  tease  the  poor  man  most  unmercifully  as 
he  crossed  the  Imrai  on  his  way  home,  shouting  out 
they  were  glad  to  see  he  was  able  to  set  up  his  Village 
as  a pattern  even  to  the  Missi’s  (it  never  before  was 
distinguished  for  morality),  and  that  if  he  would 
inform  them  when  the  change  took  place  they  would 
send  their  children  to  him  ! A few  minutes  after- 
wards, the  guardian  of  my  next  youngest  Girl  appeared 
at  the  window  with  a rueful  face,  and  asked  if  his 
child  might  be  allowed  to  remain  ? I told  him  I was 
too  glad  to  keep  them  all,  and  had  not  asked  the 
other  Girl  to  go  ; and  reminded  him,  besides,  that  so 
long  as  Hutshi  lived  on  the  Mission  Station  her 
conduct  was  irreproachable. 


HUTSHI'S  FALL 


223 


I wish  I could  say  that  was  the  last  of  the  trouble 
we  had  with  Mistress  Hutshi  ; for  she  professed  great 
repentance,  and  sent  one  of  the  Girls  two  or  three 
weeks  afterwards  to  say  she  wanted  to  tell  me  all 
her  badness,  as  that  would  make  her  feel  better.  She 
had  not  been  allowed  to  come  near  the  Mission 
Premises,  nor  had  we  since  taken  any  notice  of  her. 
We  had  very  little  faith  in  the  young  lady’s  repent- 
ance, but  feared  to  crush  any  yearning  after  amend- 
ment, if  it  did  exist,  and  I thought  that  God  might 
give  me  a word  for  her.  So  we  had  a long  interview  ; 
but  I felt,  all  the  time,  there  was  no  change  in  her, 
as  was  immediately  proved,  for  she  went  back  tossing 
her  head  and  telling  the  others  they  might  talk  as 
much  as  they  liked,  she  didn’t  care,  for  the  Missi  was 
quite  satisfied  with  her  now ! 

She  did  not  improve,  but  the  Church  Members 
round  kept  such  a watch  upon  her  that  she  did  not 
do  anything  very  flagrant.  She  did,  however,  lead 
her  husband  a miserable  life,  and  I never  believed 
that  a Native  could  have  borne  with  patience  what 
he  did  ; at  last,  being  able  to  stand  it  no  longer,  he 
came  to  bid  me  Good-bye,  saying  he  was  going  to 
live  about  three  miles  distant  (it  was  as  far  away 
almost  as  he  could  get  on  Aniwa,  either  in  one  direc- 
tion or  the  other,  as  his  lady-love  lived  close  to  us 
in  the  centre  of  the  island),  and  that  he  freely  bestowed 
her  upon  any  man  who  might  be  fool  enough  to  take 
her,  as  henceforth  he  would  have  nothing  to  do  with 
her. 


224 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


She  had,  out  of  pure  bravado,  professed  to  elude 
their  vigilance  and  implicated  a Tanna  man,  as  well 
as  Rangi  (the  wildest  man  on  Aniwa),  who  both 
proved  their  innocence.  Perhaps  Rangi  agreed  with 
me  that  he  had  enough  sins  of  his  own  to  account 
for  without  being  blamed  for  what  he  really  did  not 
do ; and  being  an  out-and-out  Savage  in  his  dis- 
position, we  feared  trouble  when  he  came  with  all 
the  Tanna  men  at  his  heels  to  inquire  about  it  one 
morning  after  her  husband  had  left  her.  We  little 
expected,  however,  the  scene  there  really  was,  right 
outside  our  gate  too,  for  it  was  there  Rangi  caught 
hold  of  her.  She  gave  one  spring  to  John  for  pro- 
tection, but  the  gate  was  between  them,  and  Rangi 
wrenched  her  from  it,  and  the  savage  yells  that  got 
up  nearly  sent  me  frantic  with  terror. 

John  stood  leaning  carelessly  against  the  gate, 
viewing  it  all — the  calmest  person  there ! He  felt 
that  his  presence  would  be  a sufficient  check,  though 
it  would  have  been  folly  to  interfere.  My  Girls  were 
groaning  and  crying  ; and  Yawaci  (the  Girl  I have 
here)  was  unconsciously  doing  her  best  to  wrench 
the  handles  off  the  Dining-Room  door  in  her  despair, 
groaning  out,  “ Missi,  blood  will  be  spilt  ! ” while  I 
was  on  my  knees  in  the  middle  of  the  floor  calling 
upon  God  to  interfere.  But  my  little  Frank  stopped 
me,  saying,  “ Mamma,  Mamma,  I don’t  like  to  see 
you  look  up  and  talk  like  that  ! Are  you  ill?”  So 
I tried  to  be  myself  again  to  the  wee  man,  and  felt 
comforted  in  having  left  the  case  with  the  Lord. 


RA  NGI  'S  REP  UTA  TION 


225 


Only  I must  see  Rangi,  though  I had  very  slender 
hope  of  influencing  him  ; and  I put  my  careful  hus- 
band into  a fine  consternation,  as  he  would  rather 
have  seen  an  apparition  than  me  coming  on  such 
a scene.  I had  only  a very  dim  notion,  then,  of  his 
gestures  and  entreaties,  being  deaf  and  blind  to  every- 
thing except  Rangi,  who  came  nearest  my  idea  of 
a demon  of  anything  I had  ever  seen  ! 

The  poor  Girl  was  tied,  with  her  arms  backward, 
to  a cocoanut  tree,  pale  with  terror,  and  a hundred 
muskets  bristling  round  her.  The  Tannese  were  in 
full  Heathen  costume,  which  means  paint  instead  of 
clothing  ; and  the  Church  Members  stood  calmly, 
like  John,  looking  on,  except  two  or  three  of  them 
who  kept  guard  around  her  with  loaded  muskets  for 
her  defence  from  murder  if  necessary.  Her  life  was 
all  they  or  we  wished  to  see  spared,  for  she  richly 
deserved  any  punishment  short  of  death.  I caught 
Rangi’s  eye  at  last.  At  a sign  he  came  quietly 
forward,  and  I began  to  tell  him  he  should  not  dare 
to  shoot  my  Girl,  but  being  too  excited  I ended  in 
sobs  and  was  marched  off — but  not  before  Rangi 
earnestly  assured  me  that  he  would  not  touch  a hair 
of  her  head  or  let  any  one  else  do  it,  only  he  said  she 
deserved  to  be  tied  and  ought  to  be  well  beaten  for 
blackening  his  character  ! We  could  not  keep  from 
smiling,  even  in  the  excitement,  at  Rangi’s  care  for 
his  reputation,  which  was  truly  as  black  as  it  well 
could  be. 

Well,  here  was  Mistress  Hutshi  practically  put  up 

IS 


226 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


for  public  sale  ; for,  according  to  Native  law,  whoever 
dared  to  unloose  her  from  that  tree  had  to  take  her 
for  his  wife,  her  husband  having  renounced  all  claim 
to  her.  Rangi  reminded  them  of  this  when  he  tied 
her  up,  saying  that  the  Missi  only  could  alter  that 
law  if  he  wished.  The  Missi  did  not  feel  inclined  to 
do  any  such  thing,  having  devoutly  wished  her  at 
Jericho  ever  since  she  commenced  her  pranks,  as  she 
was  proving  a curse  to  the  place,  and  now  only  hoped 
that  the  most  tyrannical  unmarried  man  on  the  island 
would  take  her  off  bodily  as  far  away  as  the  limited 
circumference  of  Aniwa  would  permit  (so  did  the 
Church  Members)  ; but  for  John  to  say  so  would  only 
be  the  beginning  of  mischief.  He  was  so  anxious 
they  would  not  appeal  to  him  for  advice,  for  we  both 
felt  that  for  her  Native  law  was  the  best.  But  though 
a score  of  young  men  would  have  gone  down  on  their 
knees  for  her  before  she  was  married,  there  she  stood 
for  about  three  hours  without  a single  bidder  ! 

John  had  got  the  whole  crowd  dispersed  to  go  and 
cut  wood  for  the  lime-pits  (you  know  he  is  of  a rather 
practical  turn  of  mind  and  likes  to  utilize  the  most 
unlikely  occasions),  which  they  did  with  great  energy, 
having  the  steam  up  ; so  she  was  left  alone,  as  the 
women  had  all  to  run  and  cook  food.  I had  a grand 
donation  for  the  labourers  besides  the  tea,  that  day, 
as  we  had  a calf  killed  the  evening  before,  and  I was 
giving  orders  about  it  when  I saw  John  waving  me  to 
the  Study  with  such  an  amused  face.  It  seems  that 
Hutshi’s  old  sweetheart  had  rushed  to  him  in  eager 


SARRA  IVINS  A WIFE 


227 


haste,  saying,  “ Missi,  I never  will  have  such  a chance 
for  a wife  ! Will  you  marry  me  to  Hutshi,  if  I untie 
her?”  John  said  he  certainly  could  not,  and  that  if 
he  took  her  it  must  be  a la  Native , and  that  he  would 
have  to  discontinue  his  attendance  at  the  Candidates’ 
Class,  of  which  he  was  a member.  He  explained,  at 
the  same  time,  that  it  was  not  like  running  away  with 
another  man’s  wife,  as  her  behaviour  (which  in  Britain 
would  have  divorced  her)  had  led  her  husband  to  give 
her  up  ; only  that,  for  the  sake  of  example,  he  could 
not  countenance  such  proceedings  on  the  part  of 
intending  Communicants.  Sarra  said  in  that  case 
he  would  have  nothing  to  do  with  her.  But,  alas, 
female  influence  prevailed,  and  he  unloosed  her  an 
hour  or  two  after  amid  the  hurrahs  of  the  passers-by 
and  our  intense  though  secret  delight  ; for  though 
Sarra  is  obliged  to  confess  he  has  “ caught  a tartar,” 
yet  he  manages  to  keep  her  in  tolerable  check,  being 
a determined  fellow. 

We  heartily  re-echoed  the  sentiments  of  one  of  our 
Church  Members,  when  speaking  of  Hutshi — viz., 
that  “ it  was  awful  what  a woman  could  do,  when 
she  was  bent  upon  mischief ! ” Indeed,  according  to 
the  Natives,  we  have  her  along  with  the  two  murderers 
to  thank  for  those  awful  earthquakes  which  nearly 
frightened  us  out  of  our  senses,  though  on  Aniwa 
very  little  damage  accrued  from  them. 

The  first,  at  least  the  first  to  speak  of,  occurred 
near  midnight  on  March  28th  (the  second  anni- 
versary of  our  Lena’s  birth),  and  woke  us  up  with  a 


228 


THE  YEAR  OE  THE  HURRICANE 


vengeance,  being  the  worst  we  ever  had,  the  Earth 
heaving  so  awfully  that  we  expected  every  moment 
to  be  swallowed  up,  and  were  almost  paralyzed  with 
terror,  but  Minn  and  Frank  slept  through  it  all. 
After  it  a tremendous  rush  of  the  sea  seemed  to  take 
place,  from  the  noise  it  made,  and  which  we  found 
next  morning  was  the  case,  carrying  our  boat  from 
where  it  lay  high  and  dry  about  one  hundred  yards 
inland,  also  canoes,  two  of  which  were  smashed. 

I lay  in  awful  terror  after  the  earthquake  till  three 
o'clock,  and  was  dropping  off  to  sleep,  when  another 
terrible  one  sent  us  flying  out  of  the  house  in  our 
nightgowns — John  dragging  the  Children  out  of 
their  beds,  and  the  Girls  rushing  out  of  their  house. 
There  was  not  a breath  of  wind,  and  it  was  awful  to 
see  in  the  bright  moonlight  the  great  trunks  of  the 
trees  swaying  back  and  forward,  and  to  feel  the 
ground  going  to  and  fro  with  such  force.  We  had 
one  or  two  slight  ones  after  that,  and  then  just  at 
daybreak  an  awful  repetition — every  one  of  us 
simultaneously  rushing  out  of  doors ! This  was 
number  five ; and  before  breakfast  we  went  to  see 
the  damage  done  to  the  boat  (but  it  was  uninjured)  ; 
and  we  had  two  more  violent  shocks  ere  we  got  home, 
making  seven  in  all  before  breakfast,  after  which  we 
had  a commotion  of  another  kind. 

John  felt  so  exhausted,  and  had  just  got  fast  asleep 
on  the  Study  sofa  (a  most  unusual  occurrence  with 
him),  when  I heard  high  words  between  Taia,  one  of 
our  Church  Members,  and  Nalihi,  an  Erromangan 


NALIHI  AND  TAIA 


229 


I knew  not  what  to  do,  for  Natives  never  waste  time 
on  high  words — they  at  once  rush  to  arms  ; and  I 
was  unwilling  to  wake  John  to  more  excitement,  as 
it  was  exactly  that  day  two  years  since  he  had  been 
seized  with  that  awful  fever,  and  I had  been  in  fear 
of  its  return,  as  people  predicted  it  would,  about  the 
same  time  of  the  year.  Well,  I actually  made  up  my 
mind  to  show  my  wifely  devotion — and  it  was  a good 
test  for  me,  I beg  leave  to  say  ; I always  had  such 
a foolish  terror  of  a loaded  musket  anywhere,  and 
infinitely  more  so  in  the  hands  of  an  enraged  Savage 
— by  going  between  the  combatants  myself.  To 
make  matters  worse,  all  the  men  about  had  gone  that 
morning  to  bring  lime-coral,  and  only  a few  women 
had  collected,  and  one  or  two  timid  fellows  who  stood 
at  a safe  distance. 

Nalihi  was  flourishing  his  musket  in  Taia’s  face,  as 
an  accompaniment  to  an  eloquent  harangue  he  was 
delivering  in  Erromangan,  not  being  able  to  speak 
Aniwan  ; and  Taia,  who  understood  and  could  speak 
it  perfectly,  seemed  to  be  paying  him  back  with 
interest.  They  subsided  for  a few  moments,  when 
it  was  whispered  the  Missi  was  there  ; but  on  finding 
that  it  was  only  the  Missi-fine,  they  went  at  it  with 
renewed  vigour.  I took  no  notice  of  the  Erromangan, 
knowing  my  only  chance  was  with  Taia  ; so  I went 
over  to  him,  and  implored  him  not  to  utter  another 
word,  whatever  provocation  he  might  receive  ; and 
though  reluctant  at  first,  he  behaved  nobly  and  stood 
what  I think  few  white  men  would  have  done  in  the 


230 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


circumstances.  I kept  close  beside  him  all  the  time  ; 
and  though  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  that  villain 
stood  heaping  insults  upon  him,  and  at  last  in  his  rage 
cut  down  his  bananas  and  fences  before  his  eyes,  he 
never  spoke,  though  his  muscles  twitched  and  he 
clutched  at  his  great  club  sometimes — one  that  I 
knew  had  done  good  (?)  service  in  Heathen  days 
under  the  great  brawny  arms  that  wielded  it,  for  Taia 
is  a perfect  Hercules,  and  such  a contrast  to  the  little 
treacherous  sharp-nosed  Erromangan  who  was  dying 
for  an  excuse  to  get  a shot  at  him.  When  I thought 
Taia  was  going  to  give  way  I put  my  cold  white  paw 
(it  did  feel  so  cold)  on  his  black  arm,  and  every  time 
1 did  so  he  turned  and  looked  down  at  me  with  a 
grim  smile,  saying,  Don't  fear , Missi  ; I'll  not  speak. 

Now  I maintain  that  though  John  sometimes  fears 
Taia’s  Christianity  is  not  of  the  highest  type,  yet  he 
is  undoubtedly  a perfect  gentleman , or  he  would  not 
have  stood  there,  the  greatest  living  orator  on  Aniwa, 
silent  at  the  bidding  of  any  woman  ! When  I saw  the 
good  food  being  destroyed,  and  so  little  left  from  the 
hurricane,  indignation  mastered  every  other  feeling, 
and  I felt  it  was  high  time  for  John  to  interfere  with 
Nalihi  ; as  no  one  else  dared  to  speak  to  him,  except 
Master  Frank,  who  had  by  the  way  found  us  out  just 
then  and  proceeded  without  hesitation  to  deal  with 
him  in  plain  terms.  His  little  figure  heaved  with 
indignation,  and  he  drew  such  a long  breath  before 
calling  out,  You  naughty , naughty  man ! You're  a 
wicked  man  ! fehovah  so  angry  at  you  ! Every  one 


TEN  EARTHQUAKES 


231 


was  so  amused,  and  a general  titter  went  round,  while 
Nalihi,  with  whom  Frank  had  been  a favourite,  began 
vigorously  to  defend  himself  to  the  child  in  broken 
English,  at  the  same  time  wielding  his  axe  to  some 
purpose  amongst  Taia’s  bananas.  So,  feeling  my 
own  strength  would  not  hold  out  much  longer,  I sped 
off  and  brought  John,  who  quietly  went  up  to  Nalihi 
and  relieved  him  of  his  musket  and  axe  (oh,  I was 
glad  to  see  that  musket  in  dear  old  John’s  trusty 
paws,  for  Nalihi  held  it  in  a horizontal  position,  and 
it  always  would,  point  at  me  the  whole  time  I stood 
there  1),  clapped  him  on  the  shoulder,  and  had  him 
sobbing  like  a child  in  a minute  and  offering  payment 
to  Taia  for  the  damage  done — which,  however,  Taia 
was  too  seriously  offended  to  receive,  and  I do  not 
wonder  at  it. 

The  crowd  began  to  disperse,  and  John  was  taking 
Nalihi  off  for  a day’s  work  under  his  own  eye,  in  case 
of  him  coming  in  contact  with  Taia  again,  when  I put 
a graceful  finish  to  the  proceedings  by  going  off  into 
a fainting  fit  under  the  cocoanut  trees!  John  said  I 
managed  bravely,  all  except  that  ; but  I do  think  that 
after  seven  earthquakes  and  such  a scene  I had  a good 
right  to  get  up  some  demonstration,  and  it  was  the 
first  I ever  perpetrated  for  the  public  benefit ! 

We  had  three  more  earthquakes  that  day,  but 
slight,  making  ten  in  all  ; and  I took  care  at  night 
to  provide  for  emergencies  by  putting  a supply  of 
blankets  on  the  verandah,  as  there  is  not  a moment 
to  snatch  clothes  when  they  come  and  we  had  felt 


232 


THE  YEAR  OE  THE  HURRICANE 


chilly  the  night  before.  I got  laughed  at  for  what 
was  termed  my  needless  precaution  ; but  we  had 
hardly  got  into  our  first  sleep,  when  another  violent 
earthquake  turned  us  out  and  we  were  thankful  for 
them.  It  was  not  so  bad  as  some,  however,  and  we 
got  a sleep  till  morning  without  further  disturbance,  as 
the  grand  performance  did  not  come  off  till  next 
evening  at  nine  o’clock. 

John  was  busy  in  the  Bath-room,  with  the  Girls, 
damping  paper  for  next  day’s  printing,  and  I was  in 
the  Dining-Room,  jotting  in  my  Journal  the  events  of 
the  day,  when  we  all  had  to  rush  out  with  the  most 
frightful  earthquake  that  had  yet  taken  place.  The 
house  danced,  the  windows  rattled  awfully,  and  Frank 
woke  up  with  the  first  of  it  screaming  in  terror,  but 
Minn  took  it  more  gently,  telling  him  it  was  nice.  It 
might  have  been  nice  to  feel  ourselves  rocked  on  the 
bosom  of  Mother  Earth  (we  lay  down  on  the  ground 
at  a safe  distance  from  the  house,  which  we  expected  to 
fall  every  moment),  could  we  have  been  sure  she  would 
not  open  up  and  receive  us  into  a closer  embrace ! 

The  heaving  must,  I think,  have  continued  nearly 
five  minutes,  and  we  had  just  got  into  the  house  again, 
still  trembling  with  agitation,  when  a terrible  gust  of 
wind  and  roar  of  the  sea  half  prepared  us  for  the 
shouting  of  the  Natives,  who  called  to  us  that  the  sea 
had  actually  come  close  to  our  gate ! We  went  out 
and  found  Natives  up  to  the  waist  in  water,  where  it 
had  been  bush  two  or  three  minutes  before.  We 
heard  something  flapping,  and  Yawaci  picked  up  a 


THE  EARTH  HEAVING 


233 


large  fish  about  twelve  feet  from  our  gate  ; and  as  the 
tidal  wave  receded  they  were  left  in  hundreds,  which 
the  Natives  spent  most  of  that  night  and  next  day  in 
gathering.  An  enormous  turtle  was  found  too  amongst 
a lot  of  debris — Jehovah's  turtle , the  Natives  called  it, 
owing  to  the  way  in  which  it  was  found. 

No  serious  accident  occurred  from  the  wave  on  our 
island,  as  in  most  of  the  others,  though  some  Natives 
fishing  at  Tiara  were  nearly  carried  away,  and  our 
boat,  which  lay  at  anchor  there,  was  lifted,  anchor  and 
all,  and  carried  a long  way  inland,  but  to  a sandy  place 
where  it  got  no  damage  ; yet  not  a canoe,  if  I remem- 
ber rightly,  was  left  whole. 

From  that  time  we  had  a constant  succession  of 
earthquakes  and  were  kept  in  continual  dread,  though 
none  of  them  so  violent  as  those  I have  mentioned. 
We  had  to  sleep  with  our  doors  open,  and  at  last  John 
went  to  bed  in  his  clothes  to  be  ready  to  run  ! I 
suppose  you  have  heard  that  the  tidal  wave  swept 
right  through  Mr.  Inglis’s,  doing  terrible  damage 
and  half  drowning  them,  and  the  earthquakes  kept 
knocking  down  his  walls  and  chimneys  as  fast  as  he 
could  rebuild  them.  Dr.  Geddie’s  fine  Church  too  is 
all  but  destroyed.  But  I think  the  greatest  damage 
done  is  to  the  nerves  of  the  poor  Missionaries’  wives 
(the  Missionaries  themselves  would  be  indignant  if 
you  accused  them  of  having  any  !).  It  is  such  an 
awful  sensation  to  feel  the  very  Earth  trembling  and 
heaving  beneath  one,  and  such  an  eerie  feeling  comes 
on  at  night. 


234 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


I was  thankful  to  bid  Good-bye  to  Aniwa  for  a 
while,  though  vexed  to  part  with  the  Natives,  poor 
things.  I am  so  proud  of  their  progress  (the  women 
and  girls)  in  hat-making,  which  has  been  quite  a 
success  this  year ; and  now  they  are  entirely  in- 
dependent in  this  respect  of  the  outer  world,  and 
begin  to  take  them  on  board  the  Dayspring  and 
Trading  Vessels  for  sale.  They  are  just  simple  round 
straw  hats,  with  narrow  brims  for  the  men  and  broader 
for  the  women,  neatly  plaited  all  in  one,  like  Leghorns, 
with  the  pandanas  leaf,  which  grows  plentifully  on 
the  Islands.  Minn  and  Frank  are  wearing  them  to 
School  in  fashionable  Melbourne,  and  don’t  look  a bit 
outlandish  ; indeed  the  Islands  are  not  so  far  behind 
the  age  after  all,  for  neither  the  Children  nor  I have 
needed  to  go  near  a dressmaker  or  get  a single  new 
garment  since  we  came  (John  hasn’t  either),  and  we 
look  just  like  our  neighbours,  and  a great  deal  better 
than  some  I have  seen!  . . . Nearly  two  hundred  hats 
were  plaited  at  School,  and  I trimmed  them — for  the 
women  with  bright  calico,  and  the  men’s  with  a 
narrow  band  of  Turkey  red.  While  they  plaited,  we 
got  through  the  singing  of  thirteen  new  Hymns  which 
John  printed  and  added  to  the  little  Hymn-book,  two 
or  three  of  them  being  translations  from  Sankey's 
Collection,  which  the  Natives  sing  so  heartily,  often 
attracting  a poor  Tanna  invalid  we  had,  who  would 
come  slipping  round  the  verandah  to  listen. 

Nisei’s  was  a sad  history,  poor  man.  He  was  out 
one  day  fishing  in  his  canoe,  about  five  years  ago, 


THE  CRUEL  SLAVERS 


235 


and  was  run  down  by  a Trader’s  boat  (he  had  no 
idea  they  were  chasing  him,  or  he  could  have  escaped), 
dragged  out  of  his  canoe,  which  was  sent  adrift,  taken 
on  board  and  put  in  irons  till  he  became  “ reasonable,” 
and  soon  found  himself  in  a Fiji  plantation  ; there  he 
was  not  badly  treated  and  had  plenty  of  food,  till  he 
got  ill  (he  was  brought  to  us  in  the  last  stage  of 
consumption),  and  then  they  kicked  him  to  make 
him  work,  but  as  he  could  not,  and  neither  would  he 
die — which  was  so  inconsiderate  of  him  ! — they  were 
obliged  to  bring  him  home,  at  least  as  near  home  as 
suited  their  convenience.  They  landed  him  on  Tanna 
at  Port  Resolution,  thirty  miles  or  so  from  his  own 
Village,  and  amongst  the  most  deadly  enemies  of  his 
tribe,  who  began  to  smack  their  lips  over  the  prospect 
of  a Cannibal  feast  the  moment  he  was  landed.  But 
our  old  friend  Nowar  came  to  the  rescue,  and  showed 
them  how  very  little  picking  they  could  get  off 
his  bones,  and  offered  them  a fine  fat  pig  in  his 
stead — which  they  were  gracious  enough  to  accept ! 
Curiously,  this  was  the  means  of  saving  Nowar’s  life 
afterwards,  for  the  poor  man  gave  him  his  box  as  a 
little  return  for  his  kindness,  being  all  he  had,  and  it 
was  this  box  which  received  the  bullet  intended  for 
Nowar  during  the  late  war  which  sent  them  to  Aniwa, 
when  he  happened  to  be  carrying  it  on  his  shoulder 
from  his  own  house. 

Nisei,  the  sick  man,  came  over  with  the  refugees 
in  December,  and  was  brought  to  us  one  day  for 
medicine,  and  we  kept  him  altogether  as  he  was 


236 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


unable  to  walk  back.  He  was  evidently  dying, 
reduced  to  a perfect  skeleton,  and  in  agony  some- 
times from  his  breathing.  It  made  our  hearts  ache 
to  see  him,  and  he  clung  so  to  John,  telling  him  all 
his  story  at  intervals  as  his  cough  would  allow.  His 
tears  fell  thick  when  he  saw  Minn  and  Frank  playing 
and  tumbling  over  their  Papa,  for  his  own  two  were 
about  the  same  age  when  he  left  them.  He  said  if 
the  white  men  had  only  let  him  say  Good-bye  to 
them  before  he  left,  he  would  not  have  felt  it  so 
much  ; and  he  was  very  anxious  to  be  kept  alive  till 
the  Dayspring  came,  John  having  promised  to  try 
and  get  her  to  land  him  at  his  own  Village,  about  ten 
minutes  from  Mr.  Watt’s  Station.  I gave  him  the 
most  nourishing  food  I could  think  of,  but  it  was  so 
little  he  either  could  or  would  take  that  it  was  a 
difficult  matter  to  sustain  him.  He  was  very  fond  of 
sponge-cake,  and  I charged  John  and  the  Natives  not 
to  let  him  know  it  was  made  of  eggs,  but  he  found  it 
out  one  day  and  would  eat  no  more. 

He  felt  that  the  Natives  were  tired  of  him,  and  he 
was  so  grateful  to  us,  for  we  always  took  care,  either 
John  or  I,  to  take  his  meals  to  him  ourselves.  His 
mind  was  so  dark,  but  he  was  yearning  to  know 
something  of  that  world  to  which  lie  was  hastening, 
and  I felt  it  so  hard  to  be  tongue-tied,  for  I can’t 
speak  a word  of  Tannese,  and  it  was  impossible, 
with  all  the  multiplicity  of  work  which  John  had  to 
attend  to,  that  he  could  be  much  with  him.  I could 
do  little  more  than  mention  that  blessed  Name  which 


SAD  STORY  OF  NISEI 


237 


is  above  every  name,  and  point  upward  ; and  oh, 
how  eagerly  he  would  look  up  with  his  great  wistful 
eyes,  and  then  at  me,  as  if  he  would  fain  drink  in 
more  ! He  had  a violent  attack  of  haemorrhage  one 
evening,  and  after  that  was  afraid  he  might  die  in  the 
night,  and  wanted  John  to  go  and  sleep  in  his  house, 
which  was  rather  awkward  ; but  we  decided  to  give 
him  the  Study — a great  privation  for  John— but  he 
was  not  put  to  the  test,  as  Nisei  could  not  think  of 
dwelling  in  a big  house,  though  he  was  told  that  John 
would  sleep  in  the  same  room  on  the  sofa  ; but  he 
insisted  on  lying  on  the  verandah  (I  had  given  him 
warm  blankets  and  clothing)  outside  our  bed-room 
window,  which  opened  on  to  it,  and  John  went  to  him 
two  or  three  times  every  night.  We  were  amused 
at  his  calling  him  Cap' ain,  evidently  intending  it  as 
a great  compliment  to  John,  who  would  scorn  to 
put  even  the  title  of  King  on  a par  with  that  of 
Missionary  ! 

Nisei  was  still  alive  when  we  were  ready  to  go  to 
the  Mission  Synod,  and  was  put  ashore  at  Mr.  Watt’s, 
who  promised  to  have  him  sent  round  in  his  boat  to 
his  own  Village.  He  heard,  when  he  got  there,  how- 
ever, that  his  wife  was  married  to  another  man  and 
his  children  either  dead  or  stolen  away  ; so  he  lost 
heart,  and  said  he  would  die  where  he  was,  as  he  had 
friends  in  a Village  five  minutes’  walk  from  Mr.  Watt’s. 
I stayed  to  keep  Mrs.  Watt  company,  when  our 
husbands  went  on  to  the  Mission  Synod,  and  we 
visited  him  to  the  end,  Mrs.  Watt  speaking  and  pray- 


238 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


ing  with  him  every  time.  (John  always  managed  to 
have  a little  worship  with  him  once  a day,  and  he 
used  to  cling  so  to  that  poor  man,  and  lie,  on  the 
other  hand,  would  send  for  John  when  late  in  going.) 
The  last  day  he  was  in  life,  Mrs.  Watt  asked  him  if 
he  knew  the  Lord  Jesus,  and  he  said  so  sadly  and 
earnestly,  I don't  know  Him , Missi,  and  then  listened 
so  intently  as  she  spake  of  the  Saviour’s  love.  When 
we  went  back  next  day  with  more  little  comforts  in 
the  shape  of  tea,  etc.,  Nisei  was  in  his  grave. 

...  I must  pass  over  everything  else  that  happened 
until  we  turned  up  in  Civilization,  as  it  is  close  upon  mail 
time.  I would  have  liked  to  tell  you  about  our  pretty 
new  Church  with  its  snow-white  walls,  which  was 
finished  just  before  our  beloved  friends  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Inglis  paid  us  their  farewell  visit — which  was  like  to 
break  our  hearts,  for  they  have  been  a father  and 
mother  to  us  and  to  the  Mission.  Our  parting  too 
with  our  Darkies  was  intensely  trying,  as  we  are  to 
be  away  from  them  a longer  visit  than  the  last ; but 
the  society  of  our  dear  friends  the  Murrays  was  an 
unexpected  treat,  and  made  the  voyage  so  pleasant, 
notwithstanding  the  sea-sickness. 

And  now  I have  our  grand  joy  to  tell  you  of,  and 
which  1 often  feared  was  too  good  to  be  realized.  Our 
precious  sons  Bob  and  Fred  have  been  given  back  to 
us  again  after  an  absence  of  nearly  two  years.  From 
the  time  we  got  the  telegram  saying  they  had  left 
Adelaide,  till  we  folded  them  in  our  arms,  our  hearts 
thumped  most  unmercifully,  and  all  was  fever  and 


MISSION  STATION  AND  GROUP  OF  CHRISTIAN  NATIVES,  ERROMANGA 
( Photographed  by  Dr.  Gunn.) 


“ THE  LIGHTNING  MESSAGE 


241 


preparation.  Even  Yawaci,  who  always  goes  on  in 
the  even  tenor  of  her  way  however  others  may  be 
burning  with  impatience,  got  so  excited  when  the 
“ lightning  message”  came  that  she  kept  tramping  up 
and  downstairs  without  in  the  least  knowing  what  she 
was  going  for ! The  Shipping  Office  people  must 
have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  people  of  note  were 
in  their  vessel,  from  the  many  inquiries  made  regard- 
ing it ! The  three  days  did  pass,  however  ; and  on 
Saturday  night,  after  seeing  the  Children’s  room  as 
pretty  as  flowers,  books,  and  their  little  Home-box 
presents  could  make  it,  I went  through  the  ceremony 
of  going  to  bed  myself,  though  not  to  sleep  ; for  our 
Boys  were  to  arrive  on  Sabbath  morning,  and  long 
before  daybreak  I was  up  and  dressed  with  such 
fastidious  care  that  John  came  to  the  sage  conclusion 
that  a mother’s  love  was  the  most  intense  feeling 
human  nature  was  capable  of,  as  he  had  never  known 
me  get  up  in  the  night  and  spend  as  much  time  over 
my  own  and  the  bairns’  appearance  for  any  living 
being ! He  had  to  submit  to  a thorough  inspection 
himself  before  I sent  him  off  at  daybreak,  for  I didn’t 
see  why  our  little  men  should  not  see  us  looking  our 
best. 

He  steadily  refused  to  let  me  go  with  him,  fearing 
the  result  of  over-excitement ; but  was  glad  to  change 
his  mind  on  finding  that  the  steamer  would  not  be  at 
the  wharf  till  after  ten  o’clock,  and  that  he  could  not 
bring  them  here  and  be  back  at  East  Melbourne  to 
preach  at  eleven  ; so  he  came  tearing  back  in  a cab 

16 


242 


THE  YEAR  OF  THE  HURRICANE 


for  me,  and  we  got  to  the  wharf  a quarter  of  an  hour 
before  the  steamer.  As  it  came  in  sight  I learned,  if 
I did  not  know  it  before,  that  grief  can  be  more 
calmly  borne  sometimes  than  joy  ; for  I parted  from 
them  without  a tear,  feeling  as  sensible  of  God’s 
presence  carrying  us  through  it  as  if  I had  seen  His 
glorious  Person  in  the  room.  I can’t  say  that  about 
the  meeting.  The  dear  Boys  broke  down  at  the  sight 


YAWACI. 


of  their  Papa  (he  had  to  cross  another  steamer  to  get 
to  theirs),  and  sprang  into  his  arms  sobbing,  unable  to 
utter  a word.  They  were  a great  deal  taller  and  much 
the  better  for  their  stay  in  Adelaide,  but  the  same 
dear  old  fellows  still.  Their  Papa  came  a bit  in  the 
cab  with  us,  and  then  turned  off  to  his  pulpit  duties 
(he  must  have  given  the  people  a grand  sermon  !), 
leaving  us  to  encounter  the  meeting  with  Minn  and 
Frank,  who  were  as  excited  as  two  little  mortals  could 


AFFECTION  OF  YAWACI 


243 


be,  but  Yawaci’s  black  face  was  decidedly  the  best  of 
the  whole  affair.  It  was  perfectly  radiant  with  joy  ; 
and  with  what  a loving  voice  she  said  Fareddy  and 
kissed  him — a tremendous  demonstration  of  affection 
for  a Native  ! They  have  been  with  us  over  a fort- 
night now,  and  how  delightful  it  is  to  tuck  them  all 
under  the  clothes  with  my  own  hand  at  night ! All 
four  are  at  School,  and  like  it.  The  Home  mail  closes 
in  the  morning  ; and  I must  close,  with  fondest  love, 
From  your  loving  sister, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 


XIV 

THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 
(to  the  family  circle) 

Aniwa.  New  Hebrides, 

July  m,  1878. 

My  dearest  Sisters  and  Brothers, — Sons  and 
Daughter , I should  almost  have  added,  as  the  biggest 
half  of  our  little  flock  are  separated  from  Aniwa,  and 
will  as  eagerly  look  for  the  family  billet  now  as  the 
rest  of  you.  . . . 

Now  that  I have  sat  down  to  write,  so  much  comes 
crowding  upon  me  that  I hardly  know  where  to  begin  ; 
but  I cannot  put  down  a word  of  news  before  testify- 
ing of  the  Lord’s  goodness  to  us,  which  has  just  been 
vouchsafed  during  this  last  hot  season.  He  has 
encompassed  us  round  as  with  a shield,  and  preserved 
us  safe  and  well,  though  from  the  day  after  the 
Day  spring  left  for  the  Colonies  on  November  14th 
last  until  March  30th  we  have  lived  in  daily — I 
might  almost  say  hourly — terror  of  our  lives.  We 
have  seen — especially  John  has— the  rage  of  the 
Heathen,  and  passed  through  earthquake  and  hurri- 
cane ; but  all  seems  as  nothing  compared  with  coming 

244 


A TERROR  TO  THE  ISLAND 


245 


into  constant  contact  with  an  unrestrained  madman  ; 
and  this  we  have  had  to  do  with  poor  Mungaw,  who 
from  the  time  he  was  with  us  in  Melbourne  began  to 
show  symptoms  of  insanity,  which  increased  until 
he  was  a terror  to  the  whole  island,  and  attempted 
so  many  lives  that  at  last  he  was  shot  down  himself 
on  March  30th,  almost  at  our  very  gate,  close  to 
which  was  his  house.  We  deplored  the  murder,  but 
when  I tell  you  of  some  of  his  on-goings  you  will 
wonder  with  us  that  he  was  spared  so  long.  It  is 
amazing  what  an  amount  of  mischief  one  man  can 
do ; otherwise  everything  would  have  prospered  so 
far  as  we  could  see. 

The  Natives  were  all  so  thankful  to  have  us  back, 
and  so  willing  to  be  taught  ; and  we  got  a welcome 
worth  coming  for  from  those  of  the  Missionaries  we 
saw  on  our  way  Home.  We  were  both  in  better 
health  than  we  could  have  expected,  after  the  first 
prostration  on  a return  to  the  tropics.  Frank  declared 
there  was  no  place  in  the  world  half  so  good  as 
Aniwa  ; and  little  Jay  took  quite  naturally  to  the 
black  faces,  being  so  accustomed  to  Yawaci’s.  There 
was  abundance  of  work  to  do,  and  we  were  able  to 
get  through  a great  amount — John  as  usual  doing 
the  lion’s  share.  Indeed  I feared  it  was  going  to 
kill  him  at  first — there  was  so  much  that  no  one  else 
but  he  could  do.  It  takes  so  much  manual  labour 
here  just  to  live,  besides  the  multifarious  duties  falling 
to  the  lot  of  a Missionary.  I’ll  give  you  just  one 
day  as  a specimen  ; and  though,  of  course,  the  same 


246 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 


incidents  did  not  occur  daily,  yet  other  things  demand- 
ing as  instant  attention  seemed  always  starting  up. 

After  our  usual  breakfast  at  half-past  six,  he  went 
off  to  visit  the  little  Schools  conducted  by  the  Teachers 
at  the  other  end  of  the  island,  and  did  some  visiting 
at  the  same  time  ; then  Home  and  to  work  (I  think, 
roofing  an  outhouse  with  zinc,  as  we  were  anxiously 
looking  for  rain  to  fill  the  tanks) ; then  dinner,  and 
off  to  a distance  to  settle  some  Native  quarrel  he  had 
just  heard  of,  and  returned  pale  and  trembling  with 
weakness.  He  threw  himself  on  the  sofa,  declaring 
he  must  give  in,  and  asked  if  I could  manage  the 
afternoon  School  myself.  I strongly  urged  him  to 
go  right  off  to  bed,  when  a messenger  came  to  say 
that  one  of  my  scholars,  a fine  young  woman,  had  been 
bled  too  deeply  in  her  leg  to  ease  some  pain  (bleeding 
is  the  panacea  for  all  aches  and  pains  here,  and  a 
broken  bottle  is  the  favourite  instrument),  and  that 
she  was  fast  dying,  as  they  could  not  get  it  to  stop. 
I flew  to  get  bandages,  etc.,  and  John  had  to  set  off 
to  a distance  of  three  miles  as  fast  as  he  was  able  to 
run,  and  found  the  poor  woman  in  the  last  stage  of 
exhaustion.  He  bound  up  the  wound  tightly  ; gave 
her  a little  brandy  and  water,  which  revived  her  so 
that  she  opened  her  eyes,  saying,  “ That  puts  life  into 
me  ” ; and  in  less  than  a week  she  was  going  about 
her  ordinary  work.  How  Natives  do  get  over  a thing 
of  that  kind  ! The  women  just  shout  with  laughter 
when  I warn  against  bathing  in  the  sea,  the  day  after 
their  babies  are  born.  They  pay  for  their  recklessness 


NOT  DEAD  YET! 


247 


some  time  or  other,  though,  for  they  don't  as  a rule 
live  nearly  so  long  as  white  people  ; and  they  give 
as  much  heed  to  warnings  as  does  your  venerable 
brother,  who  declares  lie  has  been  threatened  with 
death  from  overwork  ever  since  he  was  the  age  of 
sixteen,  and  as  he’s  not  dead  yet  he  thinks  he  has 
abundantly  proved  to  all  concerned  that  they  have 
been  false  prophets,  and  he’s  “ not  going  to  change 
his  tactics  now  ! ” 

He  was  forced  to  take  a week’s  rest,  sorely  against 
his  will,  after  the  Dayspring;  left  us  for  the  Colonies.  . . . 
He  was  much  fevered  all  the  time,  and  we  had  serious 
apprehensions.  ...  I felt  myself  a very  important 
member  of  Society — keeping  Schools  going,  giving 
out  medicine  to  the  Natives,  etc.,  besides  house- 
keeping— and  I asked  John  rather  triumphantly  what 
he  would  have  done  without  his  nurse,  had  I stayed 
in  Melbourne,  as  he  insisted?  To  which  he  rather 
profanely  retorted,  that  he  would  just  have  died  and 
got  a far  better  rest  in  Heaven,  while  I would  have 
been  comforted  among  kind  friends  and  had  my 
Bairns  around  me ! That  would  have  been  rather 
too  great  a price  to  pay  even  for  my  Children, 
though  how  terribly  we  miss  them  God  only  knows  ! 

A more  beautiful  spot  than  we  have  here,  it  would 
be  difficult  to  get  ; a pretty  commodious  house  (for, 
you  know,  it’s  “the  house  that  Jack  built”!),  with 
large  grounds  tastefully  laid  out,  and  the  smooth  grass 
dotted  with  choicest  shrubs.  But  “ Ichabod  ” seems 
written  on  everything ; and  when  I pass  the  day- 


248 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 


nursery,  with  its  bright  prints  on  the  walls,  and  Minn’s 
old  stumps  of  dolls,  now  converted  into  most  precious 
relics,  my  heart  fills  and  yearns  so  for  just  one  sight 
of  them  ; and  I envy  the  people  in  Melbourne  who 
will  be  passing  every  day  with  unconcern  the  dear 
faces  we  would  give  so  much  to  see  ! How  precious 
the  most  trivial  incidents  connected  with  them  become 
when  they  are  absent,  and  even  things  that  were  an 
annoyance  at  the  time,  treasured  up  and  viewed  so 
lovingly  when  they  arc  gone.  I remember,  when  we 
first  left  Bob  and  Fred  in  Adelaide,  we  found  on 
coming  Home  a large  grotesque  picture  drawn  in 
pencil  on  the  Study  wall,  which  we  knew  to  be  theirs, 
as  it  was  the  only  room  in  the  house  locked  up  from 
the  Natives — John  not  wishing  his  books  and  papers 
disturbed.  Now  I am  perfectly  certain  they  would 
get  a thorough  scolding  for  it  at  the  time  ; but  now 
not  a picture  in  the  house  was  lingered  over  with  the 
peculiar  fascination  of  that  one,  and  it  was  actually 
a question  with  us  at  the  next  annual  cleaning  whether 
we  would  have  that  part  of  the  wall  washed  at  all  ! 

It  has  always  been  a poser  to  me,  since  parting  with 
my  own,  how  for  any  earthly  consideration  whatever 
people  can  live  away  from  their  little  ones  ; for 
instance,  those  in  the  Civil  Service  in  India  and  else- 
where, whose  Children  must  be  sent  away  at  such  an 
early  age.  Only,  in  the  most  direct  wa y,for  the  Lord 
Jesus,  does  it  seem  to  me  justifiable — or  indeed  possible 
— and  only  His  strength  could  have  carried  us  through 
the  trial  ; for  we  firmly  believe  He  will  be  true  to  His 


MISSIONARY  SPIRIT 


249 


word  and  watch  over  those  so  left  with  special  care. 
Even  with  it  all,  the  separation  is  hard,  hard,  to  bear  ; 
and  I dare  not  speak  of  the  absent  ones  at  meals,  for 
not  another  bite  can  their  Papa  swallow. 

You  will  be  apt  to  say,  it  serves  him  right,  after  all 
your  repeated  advice  to  him  about  leaving  the  Mission 
and  doing  a parent’s  duty  to  his  Children  ; but  I must 
vindicate  my  old  man  even  to  his  relatives,  and  most 
emphatically  deny  that  it  is  mere  obstinacy  that 
makes  him  stick  to  Mission  life.  You  know,  his 
whole  spirit  is  saturated  with  it  ; and  it’s  just  as 
impossible  to  take  the  Missionary  spirit  out  of  a man, 
as  it  is  to  put  it  into  him.  Besides,  he  does  not  feel 
that  God  has  given  him  a direct  call  to  leave  it  ; and 
until  that  is  the  case,  you  may  be  sure  he  will  not 
make  the  first  move ! Even  I,  who  have  never 
indulged  in  Missionary  sentiment  (believing  that  John 
had  enough  for  the  pair  of  us !),  would  not  leave  one 
hour  sooner,  even  for  my  Children,  than  God  would 
have  us  ; but  if  He  does  give  the  call,  won’t  I spring 
with  alacrity  to  obey  ! 

You  must  not  think  of  us  as  pining  in  solitude, 
however.  Indeed  poor  Mungaw  took  care  to  keep  us 
all  in  lively  exercise,  and  acted  his  first  scene  the  day 
after  the  Dayspring  left  for  Sydney  with  our  mails. 
You  know  that  he  married  Litsi,  one  of  my  best  Girls 
(and  how  delighted  we  were  at  the  time  that  she  was 
getting  such  a good  young  man  !),  who  was  with  me 
on  my  first  visit  to  Australia  from  Aniwa,  and  you 
remember  how  pleased  you  all  were  with  her.  Well, 


250 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAIV 


fire,  ne  tore  off  Litsi’s  jacket  and  flung  it  in  too.  We 
quite  expected  that  our  own  house  would  go,  as  there 
were  only  two  light  fences  betwixt  some  of  our  out- 
houses and  his,  but  providentially  the  wind  carried 
everything  the  other  way. 

He  then  took  Litsi  and  Namakei,  their  little  boy,  to 
a distant  Village,  and  oh  ! how  we  hoped  he  would 
remain,  as  Litsi  had  friends  there;  but  back  he  dragged 
them,  terror-stricken  and  breathless  from  having  to 


he  spent  the  night  beating  that  gentle  Girl  (who  was 
near  her  confinement)  and  their  little  boy  about  two 
years  of  age;  and  when  John  met  him  in  the  Imrai 
and  quietly  remonstrated  with  him,  he  stalked  off  in 
high  dudgeon  ; and  in  two  minutes  more,  a tremendous 
crackling  and  roar  of  fire  made  us  rush  to  the  window, 
where  we  saw  his  nice  house  and  all  that  was  in  it 
one  mass  of  flame.  Not  content  with  setting  it  on 


MEMBERS'  MEETING 


251 

keep  pace  with  his  tremendous  strides.  I sent  Litsi 
an  old  jacket  (she  begged  me  not  to  send  a good  one, 
as  it  might  go  the  same  way),  and  a blanket  to  sleep 
or  rather  to  roll  herself  in— for  there  was  no  sleep  for 
any  one  near  that  night.  He  had  threatened  to 
murder  some  of  the  villagers,  and  was  stalking  round 
and  round  our  premises  with  his  loaded  musket,  but 
an  Aneityumese  Teacher  kept  watch  over  our  house 
all  the  night. 

It  so  happened  that  next  day  had  been  appointed 
for  a “ Members’  Meeting.”  These  meetings  are 
held  monthly,  for  John  to  appoint  them  their  work 
and  change  it  from  one  to  another,  so  that  it  might 
not  always  devolve  upon  a few.  You  know  there 
is  no  paid  door-keeper  or  paid  service  of  any  kind 
connected  with  the  Church,  so  the  women  take  it  in 
turns,  two  by  two,  every  Saturday  morning,  to  clean 
the  Church  and  enclosure.  One  man  is  appointed  bell- 
ringer, another  to  take  off  and  on  the  pulpit  coverings 
and  carry  in  the  Bible,  etc.,  two  to  stand  at  the  doors 
and  see  there  are  no  loiterers  outside,  and  so  forth. 
Cases  of  sickness  or  wickedness  are  also  reported,  and 
Church  matters  generally  talked  over.  At  this  meet- 
ing one  woman  was  scored  off  for  absconding  from 
her  lawful  husband  and  living  with  another  ; and 
Mungaw,  who  came  in  with  the  greatest  boldness,  as 
if  nothing  had  happened,  got  a thorough  “ talking  to,” 
and  was  suspended  till  it  should  be  proved  whether 
he  was  more  rogue  or  fool — for  at  that  time  we  could 
scarcely  tell.  That  he  had  become  decidedly  cracked, 


252 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 


and  his  mind  to  a certain  extent  unhinged,  no  one 
who  saw  and  heard  him  could  doubt — especially 
knowing  what  a dear  good  fellow  he  was  before  ; 
still  he  seemed  sane  enough  at  times  ; and  when  he 
did  break  out,  it  was  more  like  being  possessed  with 
evil  spirits.  All  his  madness  took  the  form  of  wicked- 
ness, and  when  he  saw  people  afraid  of  him  he  was 
the  more  emboldened.  It  was  very  difficult  to  know 
how  to  treat  him.  He  was  rather  cowed  at  the 
meeting,  though,  and  kept  pretty  quiet  till  the  full 
moon,  while  meantime  we  had  peace  to  get  all  our 
machinery  into  working  order  again. 

I was  most  anxious  to  have  as  few  Natives  living 
with  us  as  possible,  there  having  been  no  rain  here  for 
many  months,  and  not  a particle  of  Native  food  pro- 
curable to  feed  them  with.  We  had  brought  several 
casks  of  biscuit  and  bags  of  rice,  and  Mr.  Robertson 
had  kindly  exerted  himself  to  buy  two  casks  of  beans 
for  us  from  the  Erromangans.  We  were  all  secure  in 
that  way,  having  laid  in  a large  stock  of  comforts, 
our  bills  as  well  as  our  full-stored  Cellar  testifying  to 
the  fact ! Kind  friends,  too,  seemed  to  have  made 
it  their  study  to  furnish  us  with  choicest  luxuries. 
Dear  Yawaci  was  married  and  out  of  my  care  ; but 
my  three  small  Girls  came  back,  the  day  we  landed. 
I hardly  expected  to  get  them,  as  their  intended 
husbands  are  waiting  impatiently  for  them — Girls 
marry  so  very  young  here.  Then  we  managed  to 
engage  four  Boys — two  as  cooks  (I  require  two 
where  the  cook  has  to  be  butcher,  baker,  and  wood- 


NATIVE  BREADFRUIT 


253 


cutter  as  well),  and  two  as  herds.  Along  with  four 
washerwomen,  and  my  married  Girls  to  come  about 
twice  a week  to  do  the  harder  work,  I felt  well 
enough  supplied  ; but  three  little  Boys,  one  a deaf- 
mute,  the  only  one  on  the  island  and  a dear  wee 
fellow,  and  two  little  Girls  applied  to  be  taken  in, 
one  after  another.  We  could  not  refuse,  though  the 
idea  of  feeding  twelve  Natives  during  the  whole  hot 
season  was  rather  appalling  ; but  we  took  them  as 
from  God,  firmly  believing  that  in  some  way  or  other 
He  would  send  food  for  them,  and  He  did  ! 

Notwithstanding  the  want  of  rain,  we  never  had 
such  a fine  crop  of  breadfruit,  and  it  extended  over 
two  months  (we  never  knew  it  to  last  more  than  one 
before),  so  that  for  that  time  I had  more  brought  for 
sale  than  the  whole  of  them  could  devour,  which 
saved  our  foreign  food.  It  was  a great  boon  for  the 
Natives  generally,  as  they  have  a way  of  preserving 
it,  soaking  it  so  long  in  the  sea  in  baskets,  and 
then  burying  it  in  the  ground.  How  they  can  eat  it 
I can’t  imagine,  for  the  smell  is  frightful  ; but  they 
insist  it  is  no  worse  than  our  cheese , which  they 
abominate.  When  biscuits,  etc.,  were  done,  1 fed 
them  on  bread  (the  cooks  growled  a little  at  having 
so  many  loaves  to  fire  every  day)  ; and  we  had  still 
a quarter  of  a cask  of  flour  left  when  the  Daystring , 
always  punctual  in  leaving  Sydney,  arrived  with 
fresh  stores  for  the  season. 

These  Girls  and  Boys  are  the  hardest  part  of  our 
Missionary  work,  there  is  such  a responsibility  and 


254 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAIV 


care  connected  with  them.  One  Girl,  the  latest 
comer,  I had  to  pack  off— she  made  such  mischief 
among  the  older  ones,  who  threatened  to  leave  if  she 
stayed.  Her  friends  have  since  applied  to  have  her 
taken  back,  as  they  can’t  do  with  her,  and  I have 
promised  to  let  her  return  in  a couple  of  months,  if 
spared.  I suppose  you  can  guess  what  is  the  pre- 
vailing sin  on  these  Islands,  and  it  is  this  keeps  us 
in  such  constant  anxiety  with  our  flock.  John  has 
often  to  be  up  in  the  night  to  see  that  all  is  propriety. 
He  has  had  great  comfort  with  his  big  Boys,  however, 
especially  the  one  we  were  most  averse  to  take  in — 
a great  ugly-looking  fellow  of  about  eighteen,  couldn’t 
speak  without  a growl,  and  scowled  at  everybody 
from  under  his  black  wool,  which  hung  down  over 
his  eyebrows.  To  crown  all,  he  had  been  with  the 
Slavers—  and  that  is  no  recommendation! 

After  keeping  with  our  Boys  a day  or  two  and 
coming  to  Evening  Class,  on  the  third  evening  he 
sent  in  for  a blanket,  as  he  was  “ going  to  stay.”  We 
looked  aghast.  John  was  for  receiving  him  ; but  I 
was  at  the  crying  point,  and  declared  I could  not  feed 
more  Natives  or  make  food  go  further  than  other 
people.  John  said,  “ Then  am  I to  send  him  away  ? ” 
Well,  no  ! I was  hardly  prepared  to  do  that  either  ; 
so,  after  talking  over  it  a few  minutes,  we  felt  sure 
the  Lord  had  sent  him  ; and  though  I did  not  feel 
particularly  grateful  at  the  time,  I have  often  thanked 
Him  since.  We  went  to  the  blanket  box,  got  a nice 
warm  blanket  (the  Natives  feel  chilly  at  night),  called 


CARPENTER  AND  JOINER 


255 


him  in,  and  John  had  a talk  with  him  about  certain 
rules,  after  which  he  took  his  gift  with  a very  pleasant 
grin.  He  looked  like  a different  creature  with  his 
hair  cut  ; and  a more  faithful,  helpful,  warm-hearted 
Native  lad  we  never  had.  In  times  of  danger  from 
Mungaw,  he  stuck  by  John  like  his  shadow — no 
ostentation  with  it,  but  quietly  getting  some  pretext 
for  keeping  close  to  him  when  there  was  any  fear. 
A capital  worker  too — for  John  does  not  approve  of 
keeping  his  Boys  idle,  and  they  help  him  with  what- 
ever he  is  at,  fencing,  roofing,  gardening,  house 
building,  etc. 

One  day  he  and  another  big  Boy  (a  great  wag — 
keeps  the  others  in  roars  of  laughter,  and  himself  the 
picture  of  solemnity)  had  been  planing  wood  very 
nicely,  and  John  praised  them,  calling  them  his 
Carpenter  and  Joiner.  In  the  afternoon  a slate  full 
of  writing  was  sent  in,  informing  us  that  they  wished 
from  henceforth  to  drop  their  old  names  and  be 
called  “Carpenter”  and  “Joiner.”  Nor  would  they 
answer  to  any  other.  We  often  forgot,  at  first,  but 
were  reminded  by  their  paying  not  the  slightest 
attention,  till  we  came  out  with  the  new  name — when 
they  would  instantly  wheel  round  with  a smile  and 
be  at  our  service  ! 

Besides  their  food,  and  ^4  each  yearly  which 
we  give  our  cooks,  herds,  and  any  lad  really  doing 
hard  work,  we  have  no  other  expense,  as  we  clothe 
them  entirely  out  of  the  Missionary  boxes  with  which 
kind  friends  have  always  kept  us  well  supplied  ; and 


256 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 


we  keep  to  the  old  rule  of  making  the  Natives 
generally  do  something  for  every  bit  of  clothing  they 
get — except  the  old  and  the  sick.  Always  abundance 
of  work  about  a Mission  Station  ; if  not  we  make 
some,  by  setting  them  to  weed  a piece  of  waste 
ground,  or  the  like.  I keep  twelve  or  thirteen  women 
clothed  for  keeping  all  our  grounds  clear  of  weeds, 
Gtc.  ; and  School  prizes  are  given  in  clothing. 

Their  progress  is  most  provokingly  slow  for  the 
amount  of  teaching  expended  on  them.  There  are 
morning  Schools  for  reading,  all  over  the  island,  at 
daybreak,  conducted  by  Native  Teachers.  Then  I 
have  my  Sewing  Class,  twice  a week,  after  breakfast. 
They  last  about  two  and  a half  hours  altogether, 
with  reading  and  singing.  Some  of  them  sew  beauti- 
fully, and  the  attendance  averages  thirty.  John  has 
his  afternoon  School  daily,  from  three  till  five  o’clock, 
for  the  more  advanced,  for  writing  and  figures  ; but  it 
takes  us  both  hard  work  to  get  over  them,  our  own 
Boys  and  Girls  attending  as  well.  After  tea  and 
Worship  (English),  all  on  the  premises  and  any  of 
the  villagers  who  choose  to  come  assemble  for  Native 
Worship  and  Evening  Class  in  the  Dining-Room. 
They  have  reading  and  spelling,  and  twice  a week 
they  bring  neatly  written  essays  on  given  subjects,  and 
those  unable  for  essays  write  letters  or  words.  This 
is  about  the  most  interesting  Class  John  has,  but  I’m 
too  exhausted  to  remain  up,  and  as  soon  as  the  girl 
has  bathed  Frank  and  Jay  1 slip  off  to  have  my  wee 
while  with  them,  and  then  to  bed. 


FLOURISHING  AN  AXE 


257 


I give  Frank  his  reading  lesson,  etc.,  during  the 
day,  and  also  teach  English  to  a half-caste  “Johnnie,” 
son  of  an  Aniwan  woman,  his  father  some  white  slaver. 
He  made  great  progress  and  could  read  the  Bible  a 
little  before  going  in  the  Dayspring,  and  John  got 
one  of  the  sailors  to  promise  to  help  him  while  on 
board.  He  has  led  a wandering  life  among  slavers, 
and  this  is  the  first  opportunity  he  has  had  of  learning. 
He  is  coming  back  here,  when  the  Day  spring  goes  to 
Sydney  again,  being  anxious  for  further  instruction. 
He  attended  John’s  afternoon  School,  and  made 
progress  far  beyond  the  Aniwans,  though  he  did  not 
know  how  to  hold  the  pen  a few  months  ago.  He 
sat  next  to  Mungaw,  and  they  were  a contrast ! — 
Johnnie  perseveringly  trying  to  imitate  every  letter, 
and  Mungaw,  though  a capital  penman,  writing  the 
greatest  nonsense. 

One  day,  before  John  was  quite  recovered,  Mungaw 
put  a lot  of  impudence  on  his  copy  for  my  special 
benefit.  I took  no  notice — he  looked  so  wild — but 
pointed  out  a mis-spelled  word,  wrote  a fresh  line, 
and  telling  him  to  follow  it  closely  passed  quickly 
on  to  the  next  writer.  I told  John,  when  I went  in, 
I was  sure  he  would  do  some  mischief  ere  long  ; and 
just  an  evening  or  two  after,  we  heard  him  shouting 
and  scolding  from  his  house  in  an  awful  voice.  John 
limped  off,  in  spite  of  my  entreaties  to  let  them  fight 
it  out,  and  found  Mungaw  flourishing  an  axe  over 
a poor  woman,  whose  husband  was  from  home  and 
who  had  been  helping  Litsi  to  cook  his  fish,  but 


258  THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAIV 

had  been  unfortunate  enough  not  to  divine  that  on 
that  particular  evening  he  wanted  it  wrapped  in  a 
different  kind  of  leaf  from  what  was  usual.  He  had 
brought  the  axe  within  a few  inches  of  her  shoulder, 
when  two  or  three  Natives,  attracted  to  the  spot  just 
before  John,  stayed  his  arm  and  wrenched  it  from 
him.  He  got  his  musket  next,  but  poor  Sibo  and 
Litsi  both  ran  to  our  house  for  protection,  while  John 
and  the  Natives  tried  to  calm  him  down.  They  got 
his  musket  from  him,  and  I saw  a Teacher  slip  it 
behind  a tree  in  our  lawn  ; but  Mungaw  was  sharp 
enough  to  notice,  and  got  it  away  again  when  the 
affray  was  over,  and  ordered  poor  Litsi  back  to  her 
cooking.  Sibo  went  to  a distant  Village  to  be  out 
of  his  way,  declaring  she  was  half-dead  with  fright ; 
and  I would  very  much  have  liked  to  get  away 
from  the  island  altogether  ! John’s  spirit  always  rises 
equal  to  the  emergency,  but  I get  perfectly  faint  with 
terror,  and  the  longer  the  worse.  This  was  merely 
a little  prelude,  however,  to  what  followed. 

Next  morning,  he  had  the  audacity  to  appear  at 
one  of  the  Dining-Room  windows,  as  the  Girls  were 
clearing  away  the  breakfast  things,  and  he  demanded 
the  keys  from  John,  as  he  wanted  to  sharpen  his  axe 
at  the  grindstone.  John  said,  “ No,  Mungaw,  you’ll 
learn  to  put  your  axe  to  a better  use  first  ; and  I 
want  you  to  return  the  two  you  have  of  mine.”  He 
looked  the  picture  of  innocent  wonder,  and  replied, 
What  do  you  mean , Missi?  John  replied,  “I  just 
mean  that  I want  you  to  give  up  your  bad  conduct.” 


A DELIBERATE  AIM 


259 


My  bad  conduct ! What  have  I done  ? protested 
Mungaw.  John  said  pointedly,  “ Do  you  not  know , 
Mungaw  ? ” That  was  all  the  provocation  he  got  ; 
but  he  went  off  for  his  musket,  muttering,  “ I’ll  let 
you  know  who  you’re  talking  to ! ” 

When  he  was  gone,  John  went  out  to  his  Printing 
Office  for  something,  and  on  leaving  it  saw  Mungaw 
just  inside  our  fence  taking  deliberate  aim  at  him 
with  his  musket.  John  turned  round  to  lock  the 
door,  showing  no  signs  of  fear,  but  feeling  that  all 
was  over,  and  that  he  was  to  be  shot  down  so  near 
us  all,  and  yet  none  near  enough  to  save ; but  God 
was  watching  ! The  next  instant  he  heard  a rush 
of  feet,  a scuffle,  and  looked  round  to  see  the  musket 
pointed  high  in  the  air  and  four  strong  arms  grappling 
with  the  intended  murderer.  Two  men  had  been 
accidentally  (?)  coming  up  the  path,  took  in  the 
scene  at  a glance,  and  my  Husband  was  saved. 

I knew  nothing  of  what  was  passing,  but,  feeling 
restless  after  Mungaw’s  parting  look,  went  out  to 
hurry  John  in  for  Worship.  I met  him  coming  in, 
and  stopped  short  at  sight  of  his  pale  face  to  ask  if 
he  were  ill,  and  he  told  me  all.  We  had  just  begun  to 
sing  at  Worship,  when  Mungaw  reappeared  flourishing 
his  musket,  trying  the  doors  and  windows  (you  may 
believe,  I had  them  securely  fastened  by  this  time), 
and  demanding  entrance.  We  went  on,  taking  no 
notice,  but  the  celestial  quaver  was  plentifully  in- 
troduced into  the  music,  and  the  Girls  rushed  into 
the  Dining-Room  in  great  fear.  Meanwhile,  the  news 


26o 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAJV 


had  spread  like  wild-fire,  and  the  Church  Members 
near  came  running  to  order  him  out  of  the  premises, 
which  only  made  him  wilder  ; so  they  seized  him, 
took  him  to  the  Imrai , and  bound  him  hand  and 
foot  with  ropes.  It  was  a terrible  noise  and  scuffle, 
for  he  had  the  strength  of  ten  men,  and  yelled  like 
a demon. 

Two  of  his  brothers  so-called  (not  real  ones) 
arriving  on  the  spot,  he  thought  to  get  up  some  sym- 
pathy, changed  his  voice  to  a whine,  and  bewailed 
his  hard  fate — bound  and  persecuted  for  doing  nothing 
at  all ! Litsi,  gentle  Litsi,  took  her  boy  in  her  arms, 
and  walked  up  to  him  before  the  crowd,  saying  in 
a loud  voice,  “ Look  at  the  marks  of  your  brutality 
on  me  and  my  helpless  child,  and  say  whether  you 
deserve  to  be  tied  or  not!”  It  was  an  imprudent 
speech  for  her  to  make,  poor  girl,  for  which  he  did 
not  forget  to  repay  her.  It  was  a terrible  day  for 
us  all — poor  little  Frank  white  to  the  lips  with  fear, 
I lying  in  a fainting  state,  and  John  walking  up  and 
down  the  room,  trying  to  keep  up  our  spirits,  and 
wee  Jay — oh  ! how  we  envied  him — running  about, 
playing  “ Peep-bo  ” in  happy  unconsciousness  of  all. 
The  Church  Members  feared  that  some  of  the  wilder 
young  fellows,  whom  he  had  been  favouring  of  late 
would  come  to  his  aid  ; but  when  it  was  known  he 
had  attacked  the  Missi,  not  a finger  was  lifted  in  his 
defence. 

They  did  not  know  what  to  do  with  him,  now  they 
had  him  bound — nothing  in  the  shape  of  a prison  or 


SENTINELS 


261 

secure  place  on  all  the  island  ! They  proposed  our 
Cellar,  but  we  didn’t  want  him  quite  so  near  as  that  ; 
so  they  let  him  off  at  the  end  of  four  hours,  and  Litsi 
and  little  Namakei  took  refuge  with  us.  Mungaw  got 
a little  boy  to  tell  him  where  they  hid  his  musket  ; 
and,  once  more  possessed  of  it,  he  flew  all  round  the 
island  till  towards  sunset,  when  he  divested  himself 
entirely  of  his  clothing,  stuck  on  paint,  and  with 
musket  shouldered  walked  sentry  before  our  front 
gate  for  more  than  an  hour.  He  seemed  to  be 
imitating  the  sentinels  he  had  seen  before  Govern- 
ment House  in  Melbourne — a slight  difference  in 
the  circumstances ! But  it  was  thought  necessary 
to  have  a counter-guard  over  our  premises  that  night. 
The  only  good  thing  he  did  was  to  send  his  gracious 
permission  to  Litsi  to  stay  in  our  house  for  the  night, 
which  she  thankfully  accepted. 

Next  morning  (Sunday)  he  met  her  pleasantly, 
called  her  to  speak  to  him  (our  fence  was  between 
them),  and  threw  a large  stone  at  her  head, 
informing  her  that  was  the  price  of  her  yesterday’s 
speech.  VVe  bound  up  the  deep  wound  and  advised 
her  to  lie  quiet,  but  she  preferred  going  to  Church 
with  us  as  the  safest  plan,  for  he  had  been  caught 
several  times  during  the  night  stealthily  approaching 
our  house  to  burn  it,  as  they  thought.  None  of  the 
villagers  slept,  two  of  their  lives  being  in  danger.  It 
was  a most  anxious  Sabbath,  and  we  had  Worship 
under  difficulties — guards  being  placed  at  our  house 
and  the  principal  approaches  to  the  Church.  Oh, 


262 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 


how  regretfully  I thought  of  the  peaceful  Sabbaths 
and  quiet  walks  to  Church  in  Melbourne,  none  making 
us  afraid ! But  we  tried  to  realize  that  the  Lord 
Jesus  was  encompassing  us  around, and  that  He  stood 
between  us  and  Mungaw.  The  people  begged  John 
to  be  short,  as  they  were  in  terror,  so  we  had  only  one 
service  in  Church,  and,  instead  of  Sunday  School,  a 
prayer-meeting  on  the  Imrni.  Mungaw  employed  the 
time  during  Church  service  in  ransacking  the  villagers’ 
boxes  for  ammunition,  but  they  had  it  hid  away  ; and 
at  the  prayer-meeting  he  was  reclining,  with  folded 
arms,  eyeing  us  from  our  back  verandah  ! After  the 
prayer-meeting,  John  urged  the  different  villagers  to 
take  it  in  turns  to  sleep  near  Mungaw’s  house  for  the 
protection  of  Litsi,  who  was  being  killed  by  inches, 
and  at  last  they  agreed  ; but  as  soon  as  we  were  in 
the  house,  he  went  and  patched  up  a sort  of  peace- — a 
sham  to  get  the  people  away — and  then  abused  the 
people  near  for  tying  him,  and  dragged  Litsi  home. 
We  were  half  the  night  praying  for  the  helpless  girl, 
so  completely  at  the  mercy  of  that  madman. 

Next  morning,  he  came  into  the  Imrai  in  grand 
style — musket  in  hand,  of  course— and  scolded  the 
people,  working  himself  up  into  a frenzy  and  keeping 
us  all  on  the  rack,  for  we  could  see  from  one  of  the 
Study  windows — when,  to  our  great  joy,  Sail  01  rang 
out,  and  it  was  comical  to  see  how  quickly  he  had  to 
subside  before  this  counter-excitement  and  slink  away  ! 
We  felt  it  was  in  answer  to  prayer,  more  especially 
when  a little  afterwards  he  stood  before  our  gate 


CALL  OF  THE  “ DAPHNE ” 263 

painted  frightfully,  and  told  our  herd  boys  that  he 
was  going  in  the  Vessel  if  she  called  here.  How 
earnestly  we  asked  the  Lord  to  let  him  go,  if  it  were 
His  will,  but  prayed  above  all  for  submission  to  bear 
what  was  appointed  us,  for  we  had  the  feeling  he 
would  stay.  Poor  fellow,  he  drove  us  closer  into  the 
Saviour’s  arms  than  all  Dr.  Somerville’s  meetings  in 
Australia,  for  we  had  Him  alone  to  look  to.  Natives 
were  kind,  but  not  capable  of  giving  much  help — they 
rather  look  to  us  for  it — and,  poor  things,  we  did  pity 
them,  when  it  was  known  he  had  bought  a large  stock 
of  ammunition,  including  balls,  and  that  he  stayed 
behind ! 

It  turned  out  to  be  the  schooner  Daphne  for  Fiji  ; 
and  the  Government  agent  sent  half  a sovereign  in  a 
note,  begging  for  opium,  as  he  had  seventy-five  people 
on  board,  and  one  case  of  “assured  sickness.”  John, 
of  course,  returned  the  money,  but  sent  opium  pills, 
laudanum,  and  chlorodyne,  having  no  opium.  We 
were  glad  of  the  opportunity  of  sending  a few  hurried 
notes,  bearing  a month’s  later  date  than  the  Dayspring, 
which  left  on  November  14th.  This  is  the  only  other 
vessel  that  has  called  at  our  island,  since  we  returned, 
except  the  Dayspring. 

A few  days  after  this  we  had  a wedding  excitement, 
the  fifth  since  we  returned.  The  bride— I can't  say 
“ fair,  fat,  and  forty,”  she  being  black,  of  course — but 
I can  vouch  for  the  two  latter  qualifications ; a 
comely  dame,  withal,  with  a pair  of  brilliant  eyes 
and  an  evener  little  set  of  ivory  than  ever  came  out 


264 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAIV 


of  the  dentist’s.  She  was  the  widow  of  one  of  our 
best  Church  Members — just  suddenly  dead — and  she 
had  the  whole  fraternity  of  bachelors  (of  whom  I 
think  there  are  about  thirty  without  the  slightest 
hope  of  getting  wives,  women  being  so  scarce  here) 
at  her  feet.  She  discarded  them  all  but  the  two 
most  determined,  and  came  to  us  in  desperation  to 
decide  which  she  was  to  take.  We  told  her  she 
alone  was  the  judge  of  that,  asking,  Which  did  she 
like  best?  She  could  not  say,  and  did  not  know 
what  to  do,  for  whichever  she  took  the  other  would 
be  in  a towering  rage  and  inclined  to  take  her  life  ! 
We  told  her  to  ask  direction  about  it,  and  think  she 
has  chosen  the  better  husband  of  the  two,  though  he 
had  to  carry  off  his  lady-love,  musket  in  hand,  for 
fear  of  an  attack  from  some  of  the  disappointed 
suitors  ! Indeed,  several  of  his  friends  were  keeping 
watch  round  the  Church,  while  the  ceremony  was 
being  performed.  It  struck  me  as  being  rather 
comical,  to  see  her  arrayed  in  her  wedding  attire, 
while  the  mourning  dress  of  black  print  she  had 
been  making  for  her  late  husband  was  not  quite 
finished  ! 

Christmas  came  next  in  order.  The  little  stockings 
had  been  duly  filled  the  night  before,  as  Frank  took 
care  to  have  Jay’s  and  his  hung  up,  with  dim  eyes  at 
the  thought  of  the  other  three  which  had  been  filled 
the  year  before.  It  turned  out  to  be  a bright  day  ; 
the  Bairns  were  jubilant  over  their  gifts  ; and  there 
was  a general  rejoicing  over  dear  Litsi’s  reappearance 


A HOAX 


265 


at  the  Evening  Class — her  lord  and  master  having 
gone  out  in  a canoe  with  some  Boys  for  a night’s 
fishing  by  torch-light.  Litsi’s  face  beamed  at  having 
an  hour  or  two  with  us  all,  for  Mungaw  did  not  allow 
her  over  her  own  fence  or  any  one  to  go  near  her  ; 
and,  as  all  the  women  were  frightened,  his  commands 
were  obeyed  to  the  letter,  except  by  us,  and  for  her 
sake  even  I had  to  go  stealthily  with  food  (he  starved 
her),  as  he  beat  her  when  he  found  it  out.  Our  Girls 
did  not  require  two  biddings  to  put  a plentiful  supper 
before  her,  and  were  cheering  her  under  breath  with 
the  hope  that  his  canoe  might  turn  bottom  up  and  he 
get  eaten  with  a shark,  when  the  most  unearthly  yells 
from  the  shore  turned  us  all  pale  with  terror,  and 
“Mungaw!”  was  gasped  from  every  lip.  Litsi  flew 
home,  in  terror  he  should  find  her  out.  The  villagers 
seized  their  muskets  and  ran  to  protect  their  Boys, 
and  John  and  I to  our  knees  in  the  Study. 

But  the  whole  turned  out  to  be  a hoax  ! The 
Boys’  canoe  had  upset  among  the  reefs,  and  though 
they  could  swim  like  corks  and  were  in  no  danger, 
it  was  their  pleasure  thus  to  exercise  their  lungs  while 
splashing  about.  They  got  paid  out  a day  or  two 
after.  John  had  given  our  Boys  leave  to  go  for  a 
day’s  fishing  with  the  others,  and  they  were  about 
half  a mile  from  the  shore  when  they  saw  a great 
smoke  issuing  from  the  direction  of  our  house,  and, 
concluding  Mungaw  had  at  last  carried  out  his 
threat  of  burning  it,  they  paddled  back  with  all  their 
might  and  rushed  panting  to  the  Mission  Station,  to 


266 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGA IV 


find  the  old  women  who  had  charge  of  the  banana 
plantation  quietly  burning  some  rubbish  in  the  corner 
of  it.  The  poor  fellow  kept  our  nerves  so  constantly 
on  the  strain,  that  all  was  put  down  in  the  first 
instance  to  his  account  whether  he  was  guilty  or  not. 

Mungaw  made  rather  a sad  New  Year  for  us, 
though.  The  Natives  had  been  looking  forward  to 
it  with  such  pleasure,  as  John  had  promised  them 
the  large  bull  to  be  killed  and  divided  over  the 
island  ; but  at  the  early  morning  meeting,  with  which 
we  always  commence  the  year,  only  about  forty 
were  present  ; and  they  looked  so  suspiciously  at 
each  other,  that  we  felt  sure  there  was  something 
underneath  it.  After  Worship,  one  or  two  of  the 
men  told  John  that  they  would  rather  not  kill  the 
animal  that  day,  and  all  the  explanation  he  could 
get  out  of  them  was  that  they  “ were  frightened.” 

While  we  were  at  breakfast,  more  people  assembled 
in  the  Imrai,  and  high  words  ensued.  John  went 
out  to  them,  determined  to  sift  the  matter  to  the 
bottom;  and  at  last  it  came  out  that  Mungaw  had 
gone  the  day  before  to  the  Village  of  Towleka,  and 
said  that  the  people  of  Inahutshi  were  going  to  shoot 
them  on  the  morrow,  and  then  he  deliberately  walked 
to  Inahutshi  and  told  them  the  same  thing  about 
the  people  of  Towleka.  He  was  bent  upon  war; 
wanted,  in  his  own  words,  “ to  see  blood  run.” 
Burning  houses,  and  he  had  burnt  several,  was  be- 
coming rather  tame  work  ; and  he  wanted  something 
more  exciting.  He  boastfully  acknowledged  the  part 


A RELIGIOUS  TACK 


267 


he  had  acted  the  day  before,  declaring  that  if  they 
had  not  said  they  were  going  to  fight  they  meant 
it,  which  was  worse — .better  to  have  it  out  and  done 
with — why  else  were  they  carrying  their  muskets  ? 
This  was  a little  too  much  for  their  patience,  and 
they  did  lay  about  him  with  their  tongues,  saying 
it  was  he  and  he  alone  who  had  introduced  this 
carrying  of  muskets  by  flying  about  with  his  own 
and  threatening  to  kill  everybody.  He  then  said, 
that  if  they  were  not  going  to  fight  they  ought  to 
come  out  boldly  for  the  Worship  (he  certainly  did 
not  approve  of  doing  things  by  halves),  singling  out 
by  name  those  whom  he  knew  to  have  little  differences 
with  each  other,  and  ordering  them  to  shake  hands 
and  exchange  pigs  there  and  then  ! 

When  John  thought  they’d  had  enough  of  it,  for 
Mungaw  was  getting  excited  with  his  nonsense,  he 
suggested  that  one  of  them  should  engage  in  prayer, 
and  let  them  then  get  home.  A fine  old  Chief  stood 
up  under  the  banyan  tree,  and,  waving  his  hand  with 
a majesty  a Native  can  assume  at  times,  offered  a 
simple,  earnest  prayer,  and  the  people  quietly  dis- 
persed. But  Mungaw  tried  hard  to  get  them  together 
again,  and  insisted  upon  everybody  being  converted 
on  the  spot.  He  kept  on  this  religious  tack  for  about 
a fortnight,  which  was  very  pleasant,  as  it  allowed  us 
to  sit  with  open  windows  and  doors  and  get  fresh  air 
and  freedom. 

One  day,  when  he  was  unusually  gushing  and  had 
presented  a pig  and  food  to  the  very  men  he  had 


268 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAIV 


sought  to  murder — his  speech  indicating  that  the 
Millennial  Reign  was  about  to  commence  on  Aniwa 
under  his  auspices — a Church  Member  said,  “ I 
think,  Mungaw,  the  people  will  understand  us  better, 
if  we  burn  our  muskets  and  show  that  we’ll  not  fight, 
whatever  they  may  do  ; here  goes  mine ! ” And 
suiting  the  action  to  the  word,  he  broke  and  flung 
his  musket  into  the  flames.  Mungaw  immediately 
followed  suit,  with  a grand  flourish,  to  the  intense 
relief  of  all  around,  for  he  was  a much  less  formidable 
personage  without  the  musket,  though  he  still  fancied 
himself  a great  King.  He  sent  in  for  a black  suit, 
and  permission  to  conduct  the  Worship  next  Sunday, 
which  of  course  he  did  not  get. 

John  sent  for  him  and  had  long  talks  with  him, 
but  saw  it  was  little  use— he  was  so  crazed,  and 
thought  every  one  in  the  wrong  but  himself.  His 
standing  grievance  against  John  was,  that  he  kept 
all  the  Collections  (!)  taken  at  the  close  of  Mission 
addresses  (he  insisted  they  went  into  his  private 
pocket),  and  did  not  halve  them  with  him,  though  he 
helped  him  to  speak. 

He  never  forgot  the  scenes  he  saw  in  that  den  of 
drink  and  iniquity,  to  which  some  wretches  took  him 
in  Melbourne  under  pretence  of  kindness,  when  John 
was  unable  from  my  sudden  illness  in  the  country  to 
take  him  home  * It  bamboozled  his  then  simple  mind, 
how  in  a land  of  Gospel  light  such  appliances  could 


Autobiography  op  John  G.  Paton,  Popular  Edition,  p.  408. 


“ THE  GOOD  LAND 


269 


be  deliberately  and  systematically  set  on  foot  for  the 
on-carrying  of  evil.  I do  think,  that  for  their  light 
— mind,  I say  for  their  light — our  black  Christianity 
is  superior  to  the  white.  The  Natives  often  said, 
“ How  is  it,  Missi,  that  he  was  so  good  and  strong 
for  the  Worship  before  he  went  to  your  good  Land, 
and  has  been  nothing  but  a plague  since  he  re- 
turned ? ” John,  of  course,  emphatically  cleared  the 
“ Good  Land  ” from  all  blame,  adding  that  he  would 
take  care  not  to  give  any  of  the  rest  of  them  a chance 
of  going  daft  by  a trip  to  Australia  ! They  don’t 
pursue  the  argument  after  that,  as  all  are  eager  to  go, 
and  perfectly  willing,  they  say,  to  accept  the  risk. 

It  was  a blessing  the  Natives  were  so  kind,  and  oh, 
how  truly  we  experienced  that  “ God  stayeth  His 
rough  wind  in  the  day  of  His  east  wind  ” ; for,  except 
the  trouble  with  Mungaw,  we  had  no  other  serious 
ones  to  contend  with,  and  He  gave  us  to  realize,  as  I 
at  least  never  did  in  the  same  way,  how  entirely  the 
work  was  Llis.  It  looked  so  mysterious,  that  after 
we  had  come  down  at  such  a sacrifice  to  health  and 
family  ties  to  devote  our  whole  time  to  the  work,  it 
should  be  so  retarded  by  one  individual  ; for  often,  at 
his  worst,  only  eight  or  ten  had  courage  to  come  to 
School,  and  we  could  as  well  have  taught  fifty.  But 
we  could  leave  it  trustingly  to  the  Lord,  feeling  that 
all  we  had  to  do  was  the  work  He  laid  to  our  hands 
from  day  to  day.  What  a restful  feeling  it  gives  one 
to  be  “ only  an  instrument  in  His  hand  ” ! 

Even  the  great  hurricane,  which  swept  these 


’7°  THE  madness  of  mungaw 

Islands  and  did  such  damage  on  January  ioth,  was 
comparatively  little  felt  here.  It  certainly  was  a 
great  storm,  and  we  lay  awake  the  whole  night 
expecting  every  moment  to  have  to  fly  ; and  next 
morning,  we  prepared  for  a hurricane,  taking  down 
pictures  and  curtains,  lifting  mats,  etc.,  as  it  still 
looked  dark  Fences,  etc.,  were  lying  flat ; but, 
towards  afternoon,  the  wind  died  off,  leaving  us  with 
the  refreshing  rain  so  earnestly  desired.  We  were 
soon  in  a mass  of  greenery  again,  but  didn’t  the 
weeds  grow  too  ! My  women  had  to  make  up  now 
for  the  easy  times  they  had  had  with  their  bits  of 
ground  ; and  the  people  set  to  work  planting  their 
yams  two  months  later  than  usual.  Our  tanks  began 
to  fill,  and  we  had  refreshing  cups  of  tea,  though  John 
had  actually  to  put  a little  salt  in  his,  it  tasted  so 
strange  after  the  brackish  water  of  the  well ! 

We  found  that  it  had  been  a very  different  story 
upon  Tanna.  Mr.  Watt’s  boat  came  over  with 
letters.  ...  It  was  a delightful  break  in  the  dull 
season  to  get  news  from  our  next  neighbours,  and 
our  chicks  appreciated  the  fine  oranges  sent  them. 
Their  account  of  January  ioth  was  frightful.  Along 
with  the  hurricane  they  had  an  awful  earthquake, 
causing  the  land  to  fall  and  the  mouth  of  the  Harbour 
to  be  blocked  up.  A heavy  tidal  wave  also  rushed 
in,  rising  forty  feet  above  highest  tide  mark,  while 
both  at  Kwamera  and  here,  each  only  fourteen  miles 
distant,  the  earthquake  was  not  felt. 

The  month  of  February  was  furiously  ushered  in 


A MAGNIFICENT  WAVE 


27 1 


here,  with  a great  thunderstorm — wind  and  rain  all 
night,  and  at  early  morning  the  most  magnificent 
tidal  wave  I ever  saw  came  rolling  over  land  and 
bush,  smashing  canoes  and  everything  in  its  course 
up  to  near  our  gate.  I never  saw  the  sea  in  such 
majestic  grandeur — those  great  mountain  waves  going 
into  deep  shadow  as  they  arched  round,  and  then 
breaking  in  one  huge  mass  of  whitest  foam.  No  life 
was  lost,  but  every  canoe,  save  one,  on  the  island 
was  broken  to  pieces,  and  a few  plantations  were 
destroyed.  We  were  kept  anxious  for  a while,  having 
two  very  dear  invalids,  who  could  not  have  exerted 
themselves,  had  escape  been  necessary ; but  oh ! 
how  precious  these  words  in  our  circumstances, — 
“ Hitherto  shalt  thou  come  and  no  further,  and  here 
shall  thy  proud  waves  be  stayed.” 

We  felt  them  indeed  that  morning.  Litsi  was  the 
most  in  danger,  her  house  standing  a little  below 
ours,  and  I having  been  roused  at  three  o’clock  to 
attend  her  only  the  morning  before.  John  was  very 
averse  to  my  going,  in  the  circumstances  ; and  I 
would  fain  have  contented  myself  with  sending  her 
comforts,  but  could  not  think  to  leave  her  with  her 
mad  husband,  who  had  still  sternly  refused  to  let 
any  one  go  near  her ; so  I hurriedly  dressed,  roused 
the  cook  to  boil  the  kettle,  and  took  one  of  my  Girls 
with  a lamp.  We  found  to  my  intense  relief  the 
baby  already  born,  and  Mungaw  so  delighted  at 
having  another  Son  that  he  was  inclined  to  be  toler- 
ably kind.  I took  advantage  of  his  mood — as  it 


272 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNG  4 IV 


was  only  through  him  I could  reach  Litsi — praised 
him  for  being  such  a clever  doctor  (by  the  way,  I 
believe  I’ll  write  a book  some  day  upon  “Midwifery 
in  the  South  Seas,”  just  to  horrify  the  Faculty  !),  and 
advised  him  to  get  her  into  the  house  out  of  the  raw 
cold  air,  and  offered  him  the  services  of  my  Girl  to 
light  a fire,  which  he  graciously  condescended  to 
accept ! When  I went  back  in  a few  minutes  with 
some  tea  and  things  for  the  baby,  they  looked  much 
more  comfortable,  Litsi  sitting  in  the  house  by  a 
bright  fire,  with  the  lamp  beside  her.  Urging  her 
to  lie  down,  I returned  home  and  looked  into  the 
Girls’  house  to  see  how  it  was  faring  with  my  other 
invalid — for  dear  Yawaci  had  been  carried  to  us  at 
her  own  request  the  evening  before  in  a dying  state. 

About  six  weeks  after  her  marriage  Yawaci  had 
a serious  illness,  from  which  she  did  not  rally  suffi- 
ciently, and  she  gradually  got  weaker,  though  we  did 
everything  we  could,  and  I sent  her  food  from  our 
own  table  at  every  meal,  as  she  did  not  care  for 
Native  things.  It  was  such  comfort  when  she  was 
brought  here,  and  I could  be  constantly  near  her 
and  have  her  properly  nursed  ; but  I had  no  idea 
she  was  so  near  her  end,  though  John  suspected  it. 
It  was  her  breathing  alone  that  troubled  her  now, 
and  for  the  last  six  days  she  could  not  lie  down  for 
a moment’s  rest.  When  I told  her  about  Litsi’s 
baby  she  smiled  and  sent  her  congratulations,  saying 
she  wished  she  could  go  and  see  it.  She  had  no 
rest  the  whole  night,  but  said  she  felt  so  much  more 


OUR  COUNSELLOR 


273 


comfortable  in  the  nice  airy  room,  propped  up  with 
pillows,  and  having  a light  all  night. 

All  that  day  was  spent  running  betwixt  the  in- 
valids. Dangerous  symptoms  ensued  with  Litsi. 
Mungaw  got  fearfully  excited  at  a lot  of  women 
coming  to  see  her,  and  stood  over  her  with  his  loaded 
musket  (he  had  stolen  another,  as  the  pious  fit  didn’t 
last  long),  appealing  to  me  whether  his  word  as  Chief 
should  be  obeyed  or  not.  I seconded  his  efforts,  as 
they  were  doing  no  good,  and  got  them  cleared  to 
a little  distance — at  hand  if  they  were  needed — and 
by  deferential  behaviour  got  him  to  let  me  come 
and  go  with  food,  etc.  He  attributed  her  illness  to 
an  absurd  crotchet  of  his  own,  and  held  to  it  that 
she  would  be  better  at  sundown.  Meanwhile,  the 
time  was  being  wasted,  and  we  had  so  many  anxious 
thoughts.  Was  it  right  that  her  life  should  be  sacri- 
ficed to  a madman’s  freaks?  Was  it  right  to  give  in 
to  him,  or  how  far  was  it  right  to  risk  his  wrath  ? We 
took  it  all  to  our  ever-present  Counsellor  ; and  then 
John  decided  that  if  I found  her  no  better  he  would 
go  himself,  whatever  the  consequences. 

On  my  way  I met  Mungaw  coming  in  at  the  gate 
with  the  empty  dishes,  and  he  said  quite  humbly 
that  he  was  wrong  in  his  supposition,  and  would  like 
exceedingly  if  the  Missi-tane  (=  man  Missi)  would 
go  and  see  her,  for  he  did  not  know  what  to  do. 
John  soon  put  matters  all  right,  telling  them  there 
was  no  cause  for  alarm,  gave  directions  about  one 
or  two  things  that  had  been  neglected,  and  ordered 

18 


274 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 


fomentations.  She  had  no  more  relapses,  and  he 
really  seemed  grateful  the  next  morning  when  he 
came  for  her  breakfast,  as  I could  not  go  to  her 
very  early  on  account  of  the  tidal  wave. 

Poor  Yawaci  was  our  chief  care  after  that.  It 
seemed  strange  that  Litsi,  who  so  longed  for  death, 
should  survive  so  much  ill  usage,  for  I could  not  pen 
a fiftieth  part  of  the  cruelty— the  refinement  of  cruelty 
— with  which  he  treated  her.  One  instance  will  suffice. 
We  missed  him  from  Church  one  Sabbath,  and  found 
that  he  had  spent  the  time  skinning  the  lower  part  of 
her  face  and  pinching  little  bits  of  flesh  out  of  her 
chest  from  shoulder  to  shoulder,  threatening  her  with 
his  club  if  she  dared  to  cry  out.  You  will  wonder 
that  the  Natives  did  not  interfere.  We  began  to  lose 
all  patience  with  them.  I remember  Mr.  Inglis  once 
saying,  “ It  was  worth  living  twenty  years  on  the 
Islands  just  to  know  what  we  owed  to  Christianity,” 
and  how  I thought  they  were  stupid  who  did  not  find 
out  all  that  in  six  months  or  less  ! I myself  have  had 
to  live  twelve  years  on  Aniwa,  however,  to  know  what 
we  owe  to  Lunatic  Asylums,  and  also  to  learn  how 
exclusively  a man’s  wife  is  regarded  as  his  own  peculiar 
property — that  is  to  be  used  exactly  as  he  likes.  They 
would  as  soon  think  of  interfering  with  a man’s  con- 
duct to  his  wife,  as  we  would  if  in  Civilization  a man 
chose  to  burn  his  own  carpet  or  smash  his  own  time- 
piece. They  would  break  out  into  the  most  amused 
smile,  when  John  was  begging  them  to  protect  her, 
and  say,  But,  Missi,  it's  his  own  wife  ! Of  course,  they 


DEAR  LIFE 


275 


were  mad  enough  at  him,  Litsi  being  a general  favou- 
rite, but  could  not  well  see  their  right  to  interfere. 

Yawaci,  on  the  other  hand,  was  devotedly  loved  by 
her  husband  and  his  friends,  and  she  clung  to  life. 
She  said,  “ Say  I’ll  get  better  soon,  Missi.”  She  cried 
for  Dr.  McMillan,  saying  she  was  sure  he  could  do 
her  good,  adding,  “ I would  not  mind  a broken  arm 
or  pain  of  any  kind,  Missi,  but  this  breathlessness  is 
awful.”  A ship  appeared  in  the  distance  that  evening 
(how  it  lived  in  the  morning’s  sea  we  could  not 
imagine),  and  I cheered  her  with  the  hope  that  Dr. 
McMillan  might  be  on  board,  as  he  had  often  spoken 
of  taking  a trip  to  the  Islands.  She  did  not  take 
much  comfort  from  that,  but  said,  “ If  it  should  be 
a Man-of-war,  there  will  be  a doctor  of  some  kind  on 
board,  and  perhaps  he’ll  have  a new  kind  of  medicine 
that  will  make  me  well.”  I felt  so  disheartened  when 
she  said,  “ I’ve  been  ill  so  long,  Missi,  and  I have 
not  done  very  bad  conduct.”  I replied  that,  first  of 
all,  if  our  hearts  had  not  been  desperately  wicked  the 
Lord  of  Glory  would  not  have  left  His  throne  above 
to  suffer  and  save  us  from  our  sins  ; and  then  further, 
I spoke  of  His  love  in  sending  trouble  for  high  and 
holy  uses  even  to  those  He  loved  best,  however  hard 
to  bear.  She  acquiesced  in  all,  and  seemed  cheered 
when  I added  that  it  was  the  gold — not  the  common 
stone — that  was  tried  in  the  fire.  The  vessel,  though 
still  seen  in  the  horizon  next  morning,  faded  quickly 
out  of  sight,  and  she  was  not  so  disappointed  as  we 
expected. 


276 


THE  MADNESS  OE  MU N GAW 


One  of  our  Aneityumese  Teachers,  a godly  man 
breathed  his  last  that  morning,  while  John,  who  had 
been  constantly  attending  him  during  his  illness,  was 
praying  by  his  bedside ; and  his  poor  widow,  after 
following  his  remains  to  the  grave,  lay  down  prostrate 
with  grief.  I trimmed  a hat  with  black  for  her — next 
day  being  Sunday — and  put  some  on  my  own  as  well, 
to  show  my  respect  for  him,  little  dreaming  that 
Yawaci  also  would  be  in  her  grave  ere  we  entered 
Church.  She  kept  stout,  but  on  sponging  her  I 
noticed  her  chest  rather  spent.  I did  everything  for 
her,  as  she  preferred  me,  and  hardly  left  her  that  day. 
Her  friends  were  kind  in  helping,  and  sat  up  with 
her  every  night.  Yawaci’s  breathing  was  rather 
easier,  and  about  eight  o’clock,  after  getting  all  she 
could  want  for  the  night,  we  were  so  thankful  to  see 
her  lie  down  for  the  first  time,  and  fondly  hoped  she 
was  beginning  to  recover.  She  called  the  Girls  round 
her,  telling  them  to  sing  ; and,  after  beginning  the 
translation  of  Nearer , my  God,  to  Thee,  I slipped  away 
leaving  them  singing  it,  and  got  to  my  bed  thoroughly 
exhausted. 

During  the  night,  her  husband  knocked  at  our 
Bed-Room  window,  saying  she  was  dying.  John 
sprang  up  and  went  to  her  side,  offering  a short 
prayer,  but  her  spirit  fled  before  he  had  done,  and 
she  was  buried  amid  heartfelt  lamentations  before 
Church  Service  on  Sabbath,  February  3rd.  Our 
hearts  were  like  to  break,  for  she  had  been  a faithful 
attached  servant — daughter,  rather — to  us  for  ten 


LOVE  FOR  YAIVAC1 


277 


years  ; a sweet  little  thing  about  eight  or  nine  when 
she  first  came,  and  every  year  we  liked  her  better. 
She  had  a great  lump  of  heart,  and  I can  never 
forget  her  devoted  care  of  us  all  at  that  time  when 
we  were  both  laid  up  and  our  precious  baby  died. 
It  was  she  I trusted  to  put  the  little  form  in  its  last 
resting-place,  myself  too  weak  to  move ! It  was  so 
sad  to  see  her  friends  going  about  the  next  few  days, 
their  eyes  red  and  swollen  with  weeping.  Weeks 
after,  on  putting  her  photo  into  the  hands  of  one  of 
the  sewing  women,  her  head  sank  lower  over  it  till 
the  heavy  sobs  welled  up ; and  as  it  was  passed 
from  one  to  another,  there  was  hardly  a dry  eye — 
so  generally  was  she  beloved.  You  have  all  the 
same  likeness,  a true  one,  taken  in  Melbourne. 
Mungaw’s  was  not  so  good — at  least  it  did  not  do 
him  justice  in  his  best  days  ; but  it  is  charming  to 
what  he  looked  like  in  his  last  few  months — his  face 
was  so  wild  and  ghastly. 

Poor  fellow,  I would  fain  pass  over  his  sad  end  ; 
but  I must  hasten  on  and  have  done  with  him,  as 
I daresay  you  are  as  tired  of  the  subject  as  I.  The 
last  open  break-out  with  his  wife  was  on  the  day 
that  her  baby  was  three  weeks  old.  He  was  in  a 
very  excited  state  in  the  morning,  threw  off  his 
clothing,  stuck  on  paint  (he  supplied  himself  with 
balls  of  blue  from  our  washing-house  !),  and  seizing 
his  musket  said  he  was  going  to  shoot  some  one  ere 
he  returned.  The  alarm  spread,  and  John  came  to  me 
at  the  Sewing  Class  to  warn  the  women  ; but  Mungaw 


278 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAIV 


soon  came  back  and  I dismissed  the  School,  feeling 
anxious  to  get  the  Children  into  the  house  (John 
would  not  budge  from  his  usual  work,  but  he  had 
always  Natives  with  him),  and  get  doors  and  windows 
shut.  They  had  hardly  gone  when  terrible  screams 
came  from  his  house,  and  1 flew  to  implore  our  cooks 
to  protect  Litsi.  Just  then  John  rushed  past  me, 
telling  me  I must  not  hinder  him,  as  he  could  not 
hear  that  poor  girl  being  killed.  Our  Boys  ran  with 
him,  and  they  met  Litsi  running  from  her  house 
covered  with  blood  streaming  from  the  back  of  her 
head.  John  caught  her  as  she  fell  forward  in  a faint- 
ing fit,  and  a woman  caught  up  her  baby  ; they  were 
carried  to  the  Imrai,  where  John  bound  up  her  head 
and  revived  her  with  brandy  and  water.  I sent  her 
some  fresh  clothes,  as  John  would  not  let  me  see  her 
till  she  was  revived  and  doctored,  and  1 followed  with 
some  dinner.  Her  tormentor  was  coming  too,  but 
John  gave  him  a look  which  made  him  disappear 
intc^  the  bush  in  quick  style.  He  reappeared  with 
the  utmost  coolness  in  a nice  clean  shirt  about  half 
an  hour  afterwards,  and  walked  right  into  the  Mission 
Premises,  helping  about  a score  of  men  to  carry  a 
huge  log  of  wood  which  John  had  asked  them  to 
bring  for  some  purpose — I forget  what.  During  the 
afternoon  School  he  sat  eyeing  Litsi  and  grinning 
from  the  opposite  side  of  the  Imrai , and  chatting 
with  the  passers-by  as  if  he  had  done  no  wrong. 

Poor  Litsi  sat  leaning  against  the  Church  fence, 
too  weak  to  notice  anything,  but  thought  she  was 


THROUGH  BLOOD  AND  FIRE 


279 


safer  there  when  John  had  to  be  in  School.  He  told 
the  Natives  that  she  must  not  be  left  to  her  husband’s 
tender  mercies  any  longer,  but  that  they  must  take 
her  to  one  of  their  distant  Villages,  and  if  need  be 
protect  her  with  their  muskets.  Our  house  was  too 
near  ; and  besides,  if  he  burnt  it  to  get  her,  it  would 
simply  mean  death  to  us  all — our  food  was  in  it,  and 
neither  of  us  being  extra  strong  we  could  not  exist 
on  roots  and  leaves  like  Natives — whereas  any  of 
their  houses  could  be  replaced  in  a few  days.  He 
said  also  that  it  would  never  do  for  him  to  use  arms 
— his  work  was  to  teach,  theirs  to  protect  each  other 
when  necessary.  They  all  saw  the  force  of  his  words, 
and  heartily  agreed  with  him,  but  all  managed  to 
back  out  of  it  one  after  another,  Litsi  being  too 
high-spirited  to  ask  protection  from  any  of  them. 

When  we  heard  that  she  was  left  with  only  a few 
women  we  both  felt  it  our  duty  to  shelter  her,  regard- 
less of  consequences,  and  ran  out  to  fetch  her  ; but 
the  poor  girl  had  fled  with  her  two  little  ones  to  hide 
for  the  night  in  a plantation,  one  or  two  women  keep- 
ing her  company. 

Amid  all  her  own  danger,  she  was  mindful  of  us, 
and  sent  a messenger  to  warn  us  that  Mungaw  would 
be  sure  to  burn  the  house  that  night  if  he  could.  We 
had  a few  necessaries  selected,  a cask  of  flour,  hops 
for  yeast,  changes  of  clothing,  etc.,  to  put  into  the 
Printing  Office,  which  would  not  burn  so  easily  with 
its  zinc  roof ; but  when  our  Aneityumese  Teacher 
came  after  dark  for  their  quiet  removal,  Mungaw 


2 So 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAIV 


accompanied  him  as  far  as  the  door!  We  all 
laughed.  It  was  no  use,  with  such  a vigilant  spy 
upon  all  our  movements.  But  we  were  specially 
reminded  of  Some  One  watching  over  us. 

It  began  to  pour  torrents  of  rain,  as  it  so  often  did 
when  there  was  imminent  danger,  and  I sent  cover- 
ings for  the  wanderers,  hot  tea,  etc.,  by  a circuitous 
path — with  orders  to  take  them  to  another  invalid 
should  Mungaw  meet  them.  Our  Girls  entered 
eagerly  into  it,  and  poor  Litsi  was  made  tolerably 
comfortable  in  body  for  the  night,  there  being  an 
old  deserted  hut  in  the  plantation.  Next  morning, 
her  cousin  whispered  to  me  that  two  men  had  taken 
her  under  protection  to  Touleka,  a Village  a mile  off, 
and  that  Mungaw  had  no  idea  of  her  whereabouts, 
supposing  her  to  be  with  us,  as  he  had  sent  word  the 
evening  before  that  he  would  kill  her  if  she  went 
anywhere  else. 

He  got  fearfully  roused  at  not  finding  her  by  the 
afternoon,  and  sprang  up  after  writing  a line  or  two 
of  his  copy  (he  insisted  on  attending  School)  to  go  in 
search,  beginning  at  the  nearest  Villages,  armed  with 
club  and  killing  stone,  and  nearly  frightening  the  life 
out  of  a dumpy  little  virago  who  was  in  the  habit  of 
henpecking  her  own  husband.  It  was  capital  to  see 
her  thoroughly  cowed  for  once  ! His  wrath  grew 
with  his  want  of  success  ; and,  returning  after  School, 
he  told  our  Boys  in  a voice  of  suppressed  rage  that  he 
was  now  going  to  Touleka  to  kill  Litsi  if  he  found 
her  there.  One  of  them  flew  through  the  bush  to 


IN  THE  LION’S  DEN 


281 

warn  her  of  his  approach,  and  John  and  I went  to  the 
Study  to  commit  her  to  God.  I think  I should  have 
gone  mad  myself,  if  we  had  not  had  our  never-failing 
Refuge  in  these  troublous  times  ! 

We  heard  after  retiring  for  the  night  an  infant’s 
piteous  wail,  and  found  that,  failing  to  get  the  mother 
(for  the  Natives  would  not  let  him  finish  her  quite, 
though  he  dragged  her  out  of  the  house  by  her  hair, 
wool  rather),  he  had  torn  the  baby  from  her  and 
rushed  home  with  it,  knowing  that  she  would  follow 
it  at  any  risk.  It  was  awfully  hard  to  keep  John  in 
the  house,  but  I felt  there  was  not  the  slightest  use  in 
going.  We  heard  other  voices  remonstrating,  and  by 
the  cries  ceasing  we  knew  that  Litsi  had  come. 
About  midnight,  what  seemed  to  be  the  death-wail 
in  Litsi’s  voice  made  us  think  he  had  murdered  the 
baby.  It  continued  for  about  three  hours,  and  rose 
to  a perfect  agony  of  distress  before  stopping.  On 
inquiry  at  daybreak,  for  which  we  anxiously  waited, 
it  turned  out  that  he  had  tied  her  arms  and  legs  in 
the  most  savage  manner,  only  loosing  her  when  two 
or  three  Natives  went  to  the  rescue.  It  was  at  the 
risk  of  their  lives  they  did  it,  and  all  warned  us  not 
to  go  to  their  house  that  morning,  as  he  was  raving 
mad  and  would  not  hesitate  to  kill  any  one  coming 
near. 

We  just  felt  that  poor  Litsi  had  all  the  more  right 
to  our  sympathy,  when  no  one  else  would  go.  They 
insisted  she  was  dead,  and  the  baby  too  ; there  was 
such  silence  round  all  the  place.  John  would  not  let 


282 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 


me  go  alone,  and  I would  not  let  him  go  alone,  so  we 
compromised  the  matter  by  going  together,  and  took 
a plentiful  breakfast  as  an  excuse  for  intruding  on 
his  lordship’s  privacy,  the  Natives  looking  after  with 
wistful  eyes,  but  not  one  offering  to  accompany  us 
to  the  lion’s  den  ! I trembled  violently,  though  I felt 
that  the  Lord  was  with  us,  and  was  almost  relieved 
when  we  found  the  house  deserted  ; but  John  called 
aloud  for  Litsi  several  times,  and  at  last  she  came 
staggering  from  an  enclosure  opposite,  from  which 
the  occupant  had  fled  when  Mungaw  first  went  mad. 
She  was  trembling  with  pain  and  weakness,  and  when 
we  were  going  over  the  stile  she  looked  back  alarmed 
and  said,  You'd  better  not , Missi ; so  we  spoke  a few 
cheering  words  as  we  stood,  and  told  her  again  that 
our  house  was  open  to  her,  night  or  day,  whenever  she 
needed  shelter. 

Some  of  the  Church  Members  came  to  ask  what 
was  to  be  done  with  him.  Tying  only  made  him 
worse  ; confining  and  shooting  were  the  only  other 
alternatives.  To  confine  him  was  impossible.  Were 
they  to  shoot  him  ? John,  of  course,  would  not  hear 
of  that,  and  they  asked  if  there  was  no  sort  of  medicine 
to  cure  madness ! A near  friend  got  him  away  to  his 
Village,  where  they  had  a long  talk,  and  warned  him 
of  the  consequences.  The  moment  he  went,  I ran  off 
to  sit  awhile  with  Litsi.  We  feared  she  would  sink 
under  her  trials,  and  wished  she  had  access  to  the  rich 
consolations  with  which  we  were  upheld  every  day 
in  our  little  readings  both  of  the  Bible  and  other 


DAVIDS  PSALMS 


283 


books.  It  seemed  as  if  the  words  were  printed  for 
our  express  circumstances  and  comfort.  My  own 
morning  Reading  was  in  the  Psalms,  and  I never  felt 
them  so  suitable.  The  very  ones  I used  to  think 
David  had  written  in  a fit  of  indigestion  were  fraught 
with  the  deepest  comfort  and  meaning,  and  favourite 
passages  were  more  precious  than  ever.  I never 
noticed  before  that  the  passage,  “ Lead  me  to  the  rock 
that  is  higher  than  I,”  begins  with  “ PTom  the  end  of 
the  Earth  will  I cry  unto  Thee” — so  applicable  to  us  ! 
John  and  I have  often  remarked  to  each  other  that 
we  had  to  come  all  the  way  to  the  South  Seas  to 
understand  some  bits  of  the  Bible  ; and  I see  Bowen 
in  his  Daily  Meditations  says  the  same  in  refer- 
ence to  India,  where  he  laboured  so  devotedly  as  a 
Missionary.  We  had  another  precious  book  which 
we  were  reading  aloud  and  enjoyed  next  to  the  Bible 
— Boardman’s  In  the  Power  of  the  Spirit , given  us 
also  before  leaving  Australia. 

How  we  wished  poor  Litsi  could  share  all  these 
privileges,  and  wondered  if  her  faith  were  keeping 
alive  at  all  ; but  her  spirit  was  beautifully  submissive. 
When  I told  her  that,  however  difficult  it  might  be 
for  her  to  believe  it,  her  Saviour  God  was  tenderly 
caring  for  her  every  moment  and  would  not  let  her 
have  one  more  trial  than  she  could  bear,  and  that  it 
would  relieve  her  to  take  all  her  sorrows  to  Him,  she 
replied,  “ Oh,  I know  it,  Missi  ; my  whole  words  now 
are  prayer  ; for  I have  no  one  else  to  speak  to,  and 
would  have  gone  mad  if  I could  not  have  told  my 


284 


THE  MADNESS  OF  HUNG  AW 


Saviour!  I tell  Him  everything,  and  know  that  it’s 
all  right  even  if  Mungaw  should  kill  me,  for  lie  can't 
harm  me  beyond  the  gravel'  I told  her  not  a single 
night  passed  that  we  were  not  engaging  in  prayer 
for  her,  and  she  said,  “ These  prayers  have  been 
answered  ; for  he  has  had  the  wish  to  kill  me  and 
burn  your  house,  and  he  could  easily  have  done  both 
had  not  God  prevented.” 

The  whole  provocation  (I  forgot  to  say)  he  had  for 
laying  her  head  open  at  this  time  was  her  saying, 
Oh , don't  do  that ! when  he  got  up  to  burn  the  fine 
new  house  he  had  recently  completed.  She  learned 
never  again  to  contradict  him,  even  when  he  made 
the  wildest  proposals.  The  next  house  he  burnt,  a 
neighbour’s,  he  told  her  with  a diabolical  grin  (he  had 
such  a beautiful  smile  in  his  sane  days  !)  of  his  purpose, 
and  she  merely  said,  Are  you  ? and  slipped  round  to 
take  everything  valuable  out  of  it,  as  the  owners  were 
living  a week  or  two  on  a lovely  little  islet  adjoining 
this,  where  the  Natives  often  go  for  a change  and 
fishing.  Of  course,  they  said  nothing  about  it  on 
their  return  ; no  one  in  the  island  was  prepared  to 
tackle  such  a character,  and  he  presumed  accordingly, 
turning  his  attentions  more  to  the  general  public  after 
this,  and  dividing  his  favours  pretty  equally  over  the 
whole  island.  He  plundered  the  plantations  in  rotation, 
and  shot  all  the  pigs  which  came  in  his  way,  bringing 
Litsi  part  of  the  spoil  ; but  she  suddenly  seemed 
possessed  of  the  spirit  of  half  a dozen,  sternly  refused 
to  touch  one  morsel  of  stolen  food,  and  took  their 


TEMPTATION  TO  POISON 


285 


eldest  little  boy  to  the  farthest  Village,  begging  the 
people  to  keep  him,  as  he  was  too  young  to  refuse 
what  was  stolen. 

She  then  came  to  beg  of  me  for  a dose  of  poison — 
she  thought  the  stuff  we  killed  the  rats  with  would 
do — as  he  was  too  wicked  to  live  and  would  bring 
a judgment  on  the  whole  island.  She  had  such  a 
chance  through  the  night  when  he  fell  into  a deep 
sleep  (the  first  time  he  was  known  to  sleep  for  many 
weeks),  and  she  had  a great  wish  to  take  his  life,  but 
was  afraid  God  would  not  like  it. 

I confirmed  her  fears,  and  counselled  patience  a 
little  longer,  as  the  Missi  was  getting  the  boat  repaired 
to  go  to  Tanna,  and  it  was  well  known  Mungaw 
wanted  to  go  there  and  stay  a while.  This  was  the 
last  hope  of  the  whole  island,  and  all  were  eager  to 
see  the  boat  finished — none  more  so  than  I,  having 
an  additional  reason,  viz.,  that  it  took  John  away  to 
a distance  nearly  the  whole  day,  and  though  he  always 
left  me  with  a bodyguard,  he  was  not  so  careful  of 
himself.  I must  say,  the  Natives  were  very  thoughtful 
about  him,  however,  and  would  not  let  him  continue 
to  take  his  nightly  turns  in  wratching  our  house.  They 
begged  him  to  arm  himself,  but  that  of  course  he 
would  not  do.  He  and  our  Aneityumese  Teacher 
were  the  only  ones  who  would  not  carry  a weapon 
of  any  kind,  or  give  in  to  him  when  it  uras  right  to 
be  firm,  and  they  were  the  only  two  Mungaw  had 
the  slightest  fear  of ; but  he  kept  prowling  about  our 
premises  day  and  night,  for  what  intent  he  best  knew 


286 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGA IV 


When  he  used  to  set  off  on  his  peregrinations,  it  was 
such  a relief  to  throw  windows  and  doors  open  for  air  ; 
but  back  he  would  come,  with  the  rapidity  of  a race- 
horse. Many  a fainting  fit  he  gave  me  ; and  Frank 
used  to  get  white  to  the  lips  when  he  appeared.  Even 
little  Jay  began  to  lisp,  I frightened — Mungnw  ! 

About  the  only  time  I was  thankful  to  see  him 
come  was  after  he  had  been  tracking  John’s  footsteps 
closer  than  I liked.  I was  watching  him  from  our 
front  verandah  as  he  went  off  to  his  boat,  the  two 
lads  a little  before,  when  Mungaw  suddenly  appeared 
close  behind  him — axe  in  hand.  I could  see  a long 
way,  and  when  John  stooped  to  examine  a bush  or 
fern  Mungaw  stopped  too,  always  keeping  right  at 
his  back.  Visions  of  the  murdered  Gordons  rose 
vividly  before  me,  and  I felt  distracted.  I knew  that 
John  and  the  Boys  were  on  their  guard,  and  plenty 
of  Natives  were  about,  but  a blow  could  be  so  easily 
struck  ! I went  indoors  and  told  my  God  and  then 
our  Aneityumese  Teacher  (we  showed  as  little  fear 
as  possible  before  our  Natives),  so  that  if  he  thought 
there  was  real  danger  he  would  go  to  him.  He  looked 
anxious  and  questioned  me  minutely,  but  went  on 
quietly  with  his  work,  and  I tried  to  follow  his 
example  ; but  my  feet  would  carry  me  to  the  verandah, 
till  the  welcome  sight  of  that  usually  dreaded  form, 
tossing  his  axe  in  the  air  and  catching  it  by  the 
handle,  allayed  all  fears,  for  I knew  that  had  he  done 
any  harm  he  would  have  rushed  into  hiding. 

His  last  days  were  spent  pulling  up  the  people’s 


"MY  HEART  SINGS 


287 


bananas  and  sugar-cane,  destroying  what  he  could 
not  devour.  He  took  our  Boys’  blankets  and  boxes, 
and  walked  off  with  the  looking-glass  from  the  Girls’ 
house.  Just  the  Sunday  morning  before  he  was  shot, 
he  turned  out  all  the  Girls’  boxes  while  we  were  at 
breakfast,  and  pranced  up  and  down  our  front  verandah. 
We  had  just  finished  our  own  Family  Worship,  and 
John  was  going  off  for  a little  quiet  to  his  Study,  when 
we  heard  the  Church  bell  being  furiously  rung  a full 
hour  before  the  time!  The  Natives  already  gathered 
stood  staring  at  each  other  in  consternation,  others 
hurried  forward  thinking  they  were  late,  and  the  usual 
bell-ringer  came  panting  to  know  why  the  work  was 
so  unceremoniously  taken  out  of  his  hands ! The 
more  they  begged  Mungaw  to  leave  off,  the  quicker 
he  rang,  till  John  ran  out  and  ordered  him  to  stop 
instantly,  which  he  did. 

He  did  not  trouble  us  another  Sunday,  poor  fellow  ; 
but  he  gave  me  two  or  three  thorough  frights  through 
the  week — once  surprising  me  suddenly  on  the 
verandah,  when  mounted  on  a high  box  and  oil- 
painting  the  woodwork  of  the  house.  On  the  follow- 
ing Saturday  morning,  as  we  were  in  the  garden,  Litsi 
passed  the  fence,  and  I ran  to  her.  She  said,  “ When 
will  the  boat  be  ready,  Missi  ? ” I told  her  that  there 
was  just  a little  painting  to  finish  to-day,  and  it  would 
sail  on  Monday,  so  she  would  only  have  two  days 
more  of  endurance.  She  jumped  and  clapped  her 
hands,  saying,  My  heart  sings,  for  he's  sure  to  go  ! 

But  that  same  evening,  as  we  sat  at  a late  tea,  our 


288 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 


spirits  brighter  than  usual,  feeling  that  relief  was  near 
(though  it  came  not  in  the  way  we  expected),  for  the 
Dayspring  was  to  leave  Sydney  on  Monday,  and 
would  be  getting  nearer  us  every  day,  we  heard  the 
fatal  shot  go  off  close  beside  us  ! We  have  heard  as 
loud  reports  and  even  nearer,  when  they  were  killing 
flying  foxes  or  birds,  which  caused  us  nothing  more 
than  a start  and  a laugh  ; but  there  was  something 
in  that  which  made  us  spring  simultaneously  from 
our  seats  and  stand  in  awe.  John  said,  “Some  one 
is  shot ! Either  Mungaw,  or  some  one  by  his  hand.’’ 
He  had  barely  uttered  the  words,  when  the  awful 
death-wail  in  Litsi’s  voice  confirmed  our  fears.  Our 
Girls  rushed  in  from  the  Bath-Room,  where  they  had 
been  filling  baths  and  getting  all  ready  for  Sunday, 
and  said,  “That’s  Mungaw,  Missi,  for  the  Inahutshi 
people  told  us  not  to  be  alarmed  if  we  heard  a shot 
after  dark,  as  we  would  know  it  was  Mungaw  killed.” 

It  had  all  been  deliberately  arranged,  and  we  knew 
not  a word  about  it.  John  said,  “Then  I must  run 
and  see  what  I can  do  for  the  poor  fellow,”  and  was 
off ; but  another  loud  report  made  me  implore  him 
to  come  back,  till  we  ascertained  certainly  what  the 
matter  was,  as  he  might  be  shot  in  the  dark  without 
any  one  meaning  it,  and  Frank  decided  the  matter 
by  saying  in  a faint  voice,  “ Papa,  will  you  stay  and 
take  care  of  us?”  His  Papa  put  his  arm  round  him 
and  said,  “ Yes,  my  boy,  I’ll  not  leave  the  room 
again.” 

Two  or  three  Natives  came  to  tell  us  that  Mungaw 


BLASTED  HOPES 


289 


was  shot  dead,  and  that  John’s  going  would  be  no  use 
now.  He  engaged  in  prayer,  and  oh,  how  our  hearts 
bled  for  the  poor  fellow ! Now  that  his  sad  end  had 
come,  we  could  only  think  of  him  as  he  once  was  ; as, 
for  instance,  we  saw  him  one  evening  years  before 
stand  calm  and  tranquil,  with  three  enraged  men 
pointing  their  muskets  at  him  for  spoiling  some 
Heathen  performance,  and  telling  them  he  would  not 
fight  and  that  the  worst  they  could  do  would  only 
send  him  to  Heaven.  Or  again,  as  he  used  to  go 
about  pleading  with  the  young  Boys  (a  mere  boy 
himself)  not  to  follow  the  footsteps  of  their  fathers, 
but  come  out  decidedly  for  the  Lord  Jesus.  Or  again, 
we  thought  of  the  time  when  he  was  John’s  right-hand 
man,  and  would  almost  have  laid  down  his  life  to 
serve  him.  His  two  nearest  friends,  on  coming  to  ask 
if  they  should  bury  him  at  once,  laid  down  their  heads 
and  sobbed  aloud,  though  like  all  the  Aniwans  they 
had  wished  for  his  death.  It  was  a sad,  sad  night ; 
the  hurried  midnight  burial,  the  suppressed  excite- 
ment, the  fear  and  uncertainty  about  the  real  murderers 
and  what  would  follow  next,  and,  last  of  all,  that  young 
and  once  noble  fellow  cut  down  in  the  midst  of  his 
days. 

He  had  just  left  our  premises  and  gone  home  for 
supper,  and  then  had  Worship  (!)  with  Litsi— after 
which  she  told  him  not  to  go  outside,  as  two  or  three 
men  had  been  watching  for  three  nights  to  get  a good 
aim  at  him.  He  courted  death,  and  would  go  out, 
saying  to  Litsi,  You  come  with  vie.  She  went  out  first 

19 


290 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAIV 


and  thought  she  saw  a man  standing;  but  next 
moment  the  attention  of  both  was  suddenly  directed 
to  a meteor  in  its  transit,  and  while  gazing  at  it  the 
musket  went  off,  going  through  Mungaw’s  body  from 
arm  to  arm.  He  fell  down  by  his  own  door  crying, 
Awai ! (Alas  !),  and  died  immediately,  the  murderers 
making  their  escape  as  they  shot  the  other  musket 
into  the  air. 

It  has  at  last  been  traced  to  a Tanna  man,  who 
some  years  ago  along  with  his  adopted  brother 
murdered  a nice  man  and  his  wife  in  cold  blood  ; so 
it  may  stand  hard  with  him  yet,  as  their  friends  seem 
to  be  egging  on  Mungaw’s  to  revenge. 

You  may  be  sure,  after  these  trying  times  and  seven 
months’  utter  silence  regarding  our  absent  ones,  we 
were  intensely  delighted  to  welcome  the  dear  old 
Dayspring  once  more.  But,  strange  as  it  may  seem, 
this  is  our  most  trying  time  ; for  all  the  anxiety  of 
the  past  months  seems  to  accumulate  into  an  agony 
of  suspense,  from  the  time  her  sails  are  discovered 
till  we  have  opened  the  most-desired -for  letters  of  our 
mail  and  found  all  well.  She  arrived  at  Aniwa  just 
two  days  after  we  calculated  upon  seeing  her,  April 
24th.  The  first  announcement  of  her  approach  came 
as  we  were  assembled  in  Church  at  three  o’clock  for 
the  prayer-meeting  ; and  I’m  afraid  the  Services  had 
not  their  usual  interest  for  me]  How  John  could 
proceed  quietly  with  the  address,  under  the  excite- 
ment, was  a puzzle  ; for  I saw  him  start,  and  we  ex- 
changed earnest  looks,  as  the  well-known  cry  greeted 


TUMBLING  IVITH  JOY 


291 

our  ears,  and  then  two  Natives  came  panting  in  with 
beaming  faces,  darting  intelligent  looks  all  around. 

The  Service  did  come  to  an  end  at  last,  and  then 
every  one’s  tongue  was  loosed.  It  zvas  the  Dayspring 
without  doubt  ; but  was  there  wind  enough  to  bring 
her  in  that  day  ? I made  an  agreement  with  the  herd 
who  went  for  the  goats  to  shout  again  if  it  were  very 
near,  and  soon  a dozen  voices  yelled  back  the  answer. 
I flew  to  give  orders  for  all  sorts  of  preparations,  but 
not  a girl  was  to  be  found — all  having  rushed  up  the 
hill  to  see  for  themselves  ; and  when  they  came  they 
were  so  mad  with  joyful  excitement,  that  instead  of 
their  usual  respectful  demeanour  they  tumbled  heels 
over  head  on  the  verandah  two  or  three  times  before 
they  could  compose  themselves  to  work — and  so 
many  little  things  waiting  to  be  done.  There  was 
the  verandah  mat  to  put  down,  a substantial  tea  to 
be  laid  out,  the  Drawing-Room  dusted,  fresh  flowers 
cut,  and  the  Children  dressed  to  go  to  the  boat  land- 
ing with  their  Papa.  We  were  going  on  like  steam 
at  high  pressure,  when  the  Dayspring  came  slowly 
into  view  at  the  opening  in  the  trees,  and  we  all 
rushed  out  to  wave  handkerchiefs  (the  Girls  waved 
towels  and  dusters  !)  at  a furious  rate  till  she  passed 
out  of  sight,  and  we  were  again  at  liberty  to  go  on 
with  our  work.  My  Cook  had  stuck  to  his  post  ; and, 
all  being  satisfactorily  arranged,  at  last  I had  a little 
time  to  let  gloomy  thoughts  get  the  better  of  me,  and 
to  make  up  my  mind  that  one  of  the  Children  would 
be  dead  at  any  rate  ! 


292 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAIV 


It  began  to  grow  dusk,  and  the  Girls  had  set  the 
house  in  a blaze  with  lamps  to  give  as  cheery  a 
welcome  as  possible,  when  white  faces  were  seen 
among  the  trees.  My  teeth  really  chattered  with 
apprehension,  but  trying  to  hide  it  I ran  down  to 
the  gate  and  welcomed  my  visitors.  There  were  the 
Robertsons  and  McDonalds,  and  a new  Missionary 
was  introduced  whose  looks  I liked — but  oh  ! if  some 
one  would  only  tell  me  about  my  Children.  I inquired 
of  Mrs.  Robertson,  as  we  walked  slowly  up  to  the 
house ; and  she,  naturally  supposing  I meant  hers, 
told  me  all  about  their  leaving  Gordon  behind  till 
next  trip  of  the  Dayspring.  I listened  patiently, 
and  then  asked  when  she  saw  mine.  She  quietly 
replied,  “ Oh,  we  did  not  go  on  to  Melbourne,  but 
the  McDonalds  were  there  all  the  time,”  and  then 
went  on  to  praise  our  premises  ! Just  as  I thought , 
I bitterly  commented  within  myself,  and  she’s 
changing  the  subject  to  hide  the  bad  news.  I heard 
her  admire  this  shrub  and  that,  as  if  her  voice  were 
a long  way  off,  while  the  little  bits  of  coral  at  our 
feet  were  photographing  themselves  on  my  mind 
with  the  greatest  minuteness.  Isn’t  it  strange  that 
such  little  things  should  occupy  one’s  observation, 
when  the  mind  is  strung  to  the  highest  pitch  about 
something  momentous  ? 

Faintness  coming  on,  I turned  abruptly  to  Mr. 
McDonald  close  behind,  and  said,  “ What  about 
the  Children  ? ” “ Well,  we  had  rather  an  anxious 

time  with  little  Alexander  in  Melbourne  ” (their  own 


TIDINGS  FROM  AFAR 


293 


Children  again  !)  ; “ he  had  a slight  attack  of  inflam- 
mation on  the  lungs,  and  has  not  been  well  since.” 
I tried  to  stammer  out  some  expression  of  sympathy, 
before  saying,  “ Did  you  see  our  Children,  Mr. 
McDonald  ? ” “ Oh  yes ! ” he  answered  in  a hearty 

voice  ; “ we  met  them  all  three  at  Mrs.  Beattie’s,  before 
we  left,  looking  so  well  and  happy ! ” How  the  whole 
scene  in  a moment  was  changed ! I was  quite  ready 
to  admit  now  that  the  premises  did  look  lovely,  and 
to  sympathize  heartily  with  my  neighbours’  bairns  ! 

We  gathered  round  such  a happy  tea-table ; for 
it  is  the  most  exquisite  treat  to  have  intercourse 
with  kindred  spirits  in  our  own  tongue,  after  jabber- 
ing so  many  months  to  the  Darkies,  and  to  get  all 
the  news  from  the  civilized  world.  Such  a mail  too  ! 
Over  one  hundred  letters,  and  no  end  of  papers.  We 
simply  looked  at  all  your  different  handwritings,  but 
devoured  our  bairns’  monthly  budgets  that  night 
after  our  visitors  had  retired  to  their  rooms.  Fancy 
us  having  ten,  including  the  babies,  but  not  their 
nurses,  after  not  seeing  a single  white  face  for  such 
an  age ! . . . 

The  Vessel  was  five  weeks  away  among  the  Islands, 
and  during  that  time  we  had  the  pleasure  of  Mrs. 
Captain  Braithwaite’s  company,  which  was  a delight- 
ful change  for  me.  . . . We  had  one  or  two  little 
excursions,  and  she  was  quite  delighted  with  our 
little  island — especially  with  one  romantic  glen, 
abounding  in  ferns.  I gave  my  School  a holiday, 
and  enjoying  the  rest  tried  to  persuade  John  to  do 


294 


THE  MADNESS  OE  MUNGAIV 


likewise  ; but  he  said  there  was  time  enough  for 
rest  when  he  went  to  the  Synod. 

The  second  Communion  since  our  return  also 
took  place  at  this  time,  and  was  a season  of  great 
refreshing  and  comfort  ; but  the  sight  of  that  little 
group  of  Communicants  is  always  too  much  for  me, 
especially  when  they  stand  up  to  sing  so  heartily  ! 
I could  fain  lay  down  my  head  and  sob,  were  it  not 
that  I have  the  harmonium  to  attend  to  and  must 
crush  my  heart  down  as  best  I can.  All  our  trials 
and  privations,  looked  at  in  the  light  of  that  little 
sable  band  (glancing  back  at  what  they  once  were) 
now  sitting  at  their  Lord’s  Table,  seem  as  nothing — 
as  less  than  nothing. 

A stranger  might  simply  have  his  visibles  excited 
by  the  somewhat  grotesque  costume  of  the  con- 
gregation. Indeed  I had  to  turn  away  my  own 
head,  as  our  two  worthy  Elders  came  in  for  the 
‘ Elements’  before  the  Service,  with  the  most  imposing 
gravity,  with  manifest  devotion  in  their  looks,  but 
in  all  the  dignity  of  their  office  and  with  special  hats 
to  grace  the  occasion.  The  one  had  his  white  shirt 
done  up  round  his  hat  so  as  to  represent  a puggaree, 
and,  as  it  hung  a long  way  behind,  he  had  to  keep 
his  head  well-balanced  for  fear  of  it  falling  back. 
As  for  the  other,  who  or  what  his  hat  had  been 
originally  intended  for,  we  were  at  a loss  to  divine  ! 
It  has  always  been  our  difficulty  to  get  them  large 
enough  to  include  their  wool,  but  this,  a light  grey 
chimney-pot,  overtopped  wool  and  all,  till  it  rested 


A PARADISE  ON  TANNA 


295 


on  the  tip  of  his  nose,  which  fortunately  being  a 
very  large  one  prevented  his  face  from  disappearing 
altogether.  . . . 

It  being  the  weather  side  of  the  island,  the  Day- 
spring  couldn’t  stand  in  close  to  Tanna  (en  route  {or 
Synod  meeting  on  Aneityum),  so  we  had  a seven 
miles’  pull  in  the  boat  before  breakfast,  sick  to  the 
last  and  thankful  beyond  measure  to  get  into  dear 
Mrs.  Watt’s  bright  little  Paradise  of  a house,  ourselves 
and  bairns  bathed,  and  then  to  sit  down  with  such 
an  appetite  and  feel  we  had  no  further  voyaging 
meantime.  . . . How  intensely  pleasant  was  the  time 
passed  with  these  two  beloved  friends,  Mrs.  Milne 
and  Mrs.  Watt ! There  were  no  untoward  circum- 
stances to  mar  the  enjoyment,  though  the  Tannese 
did  get  up  a slight  demonstration,  next  morning,  on 
the  beach  in  front  of  the  Mission  House,  but  no  one 
was  shot,  only  a few  broken  arms  and  heads,  and 
Mrs.  Milne  and  I did  not  know  till  all  was  over. 
Mrs.  Watt  has  the  sweetest  wee  harmonium,  so  we 
had  music  in  abundance — all  the  best  of  Sankey’s 
Hymns — and  very  sweet  fellowship  ; but  it  came  to 
an  end  all  too  soon,  for  the  Dayspring  returned  in 
a fortnight,  and  I did  so  want  three  weeks  of  a 
holiday. 

It  was  announced  on  Saturday  morning  at  day- 
break, and  we  had  our  husbands  and  the  other 
Missionaries  on  shore  to  breakfast.  They  were  in 
fine  spirits,  enjoying  the  little  while  on  shore ; and 
we  all  gathered  round  the  harmonium  ere  setting 


296 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAIV 


off,  and  sang  Pass  me  not , O gentle  Saviour , and 
Waiting  and  Watching.  The  weather  was  again 
beautifully  calm  in  going  as  it  had  been  in  coming, 
which  was  so  pleasant.  On  remarking  this  to  the 
Captain,  after  getting  comfortably  on  board,  he  said, 
“ Ah,  you  see  the  weather  was  bespoke ! ” They 
had  been  praying  earnestly  for  a favourable  day. 

There  were  thousands  of  oranges  on  board  (and 
John  had  two  huge  boxes  for  us)  from  Aneityum, 
where  the  Missionaries  had  been  luxuriating  on  them 
during  the  Synod.  This  time  they  had  only  one  long 
sitting  daily,  leaving  the  afternoon  and  evening  free 
for  botanizing  and  enjoyment.  They  all  declare  that 
they  got  through  as  much  work,  as  when  they  used 
to  have  three  sittings,  and  went  back  to  their  Stations 
jaded  instead  of  refreshed  by  the  change.  John, 
along  with  Mr.  Watt  and  two  or  three  others,  were 
the  Annands’  guests  on  shore,  and  enjoyed  the  visit 
so  much.  They  all  had  the  Communion  together 
(a  white  Service,  not  with  the  Natives),  and  were 
refreshed  in  soul  as  well  as  body. 

John  missed  Mr.  Inglis  sadly,  however,  at  the 
Synod  ; and  more  when  they  went  round  to  his  old 
Station,  where  the  Natives  mourn  his  and  Mrs.  Inglis’s 
absence  daily,  and  are  keeping  everything  in  apple-pie 
order.  When  Mr.  Robertson  asked  Esther  (Mrs. 
Inglis’s  head  servant)  if  she  still  missed  Mrs.  Inglis, 
she  burst  into  tears  and  replied,  Just  don't  speak  about 
her , Missil  They  all  say  they  arc  left  orphans , and 
were  bitterly  disappointed  at  Mr.  Watt  not  being 


HOLY  PRAISE 


297 


appointed  their  Missionary.  We  are  sorry  too,  for 
they  richly  deserve  our  best  Missionary,  having  given 
ample  proof  of  their  true  Christianity  by  themselves 
going  forth  as  Teachers  to  Heathen  islands,  and 
freely  shedding  their  blood  for  Christ’s  sake  and  the 
Gospel’s.  . . . 

The  Captain’s  plan  was  to  land  us  on  Sunday 
morning,  lie  off  and  on  till  Monday  to  land  our 
luggage  and  some  wood  John  had  bought  on 
Aneityum,  and  then  return  for  the  McDonalds  at 
Port  Resolution  on  his  way  northward.  Mrs.  Milne 
and  I lay  pillowed  on  deck,  enjoying  the  moonlight, 
till  quite  late,  and  having  such  a musical  treat  from 
Mr.  Michelsen,  who  sings  and  accompanies  himself 
on  the  guitar  with  such  taste.  He  had  been  playing 
it  on  deck  in  the  afternoon,  and  we  begged  him  to 
bring  it  up  again  after  tea.  The  moon  was  brilliantly 
reflected  on  the  water,  and  the  ship  lying  so  still, 
when  he  began  with  exquisite  guitar  accompaniment 
to  sing  Jesus,  Lover  of  my  Soul — the  Missionaries 
standing  round  and  joining  softly  in  parts,  while  we 
were  quietly  crying.  I have  heard  Oratorios  in  the 
old  country  rendered  so  that  they  almost  took  one 
out  of  the  body,  but  never  anything  that  went  to  my 
heart  like  this!  You  would  need  to  take  in  the 
whole  circumstances  to  know  how  we  felt  it.  The 
Vessel,  with  her  little  band  of  Missionaries  so  far  from 
kindred  and  country,  and  about  to  separate  for  their 
lonely  homes,  and  we  knew  not  how  much  trial 
awaiting  them  ! 


298 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 


Ours  met  us,  as  we  put  foot  on  shore  next  day, 
and  found  that  instead  of  the  usual  Sabbath  Services 
there  had  been  almost  a fight.  We  saw  the  house 
and  garden  looking  so  pretty  as  we  sailed  past  the 
opening,  but  no  one  about ; so  we  gave  them  credit 
for  being  in  Sunday  School,  as  it  was  afternoon,  till 
we  reached  the  boat  landing  and  found  only  a few 
women  and  our  Aneityumese  Teacher,  and  then  two 
or  three  men  emerged  from  the  bush  with  muskets, 
which  made  John  exclaim,  “ War  must  have  broken 
out  on  Aniwa.”  The  men  apologized  for  carrying 
them  on  Sunday  by  telling  us  that  while  the  Church 
bell  was  ringing  for  Morning  Service,  and  most  of 
the  people  had  assembled,  three  of  Mungaw’s  re- 
lations tried  to  shoot  his  murderers  as  they  were 
hurrying  on  to  Church,  but  missed  fire.  The  people 
in  Church  were  alarmed  at  hearing  shots  on  Sunday, 
and  the  Church  Members  rushed  in  that  direction, 
and  succeeded  in  putting  a stop  to  further  fighting. 
But  high  words  were  bandied  about,  until  the  Vessel 
was  announced,  which  the  people  declared  that  God 
had  sent  just  at  the  right  time  ; so  I felt  He  had  His 
own  all-wise  purposes  in  cutting  short  our  holiday.  . . . 

Our  earnest  prayers  have  been  answered  so  far, 
for  there  has  been  no  more  fighting,  though  most  of 
the  people  carry  their  muskets,  feeling  still  a little 
alarmed.  They  have  been  kept  as  busy  as  bees  ever 
since,  making  arrowroot  to  pay  for  their  own  Gospels 
being  printed  in  Melbourne,  and  are  trying  which 
Village  will  make  the  most— better  work  than  fight- 


JEHOVAH'S  ARROWROOT 


299 


ing  ! The  want  of  suitable  water  is  the  great  drawback 
here,  and  I have  to  let  them  draw  upon  my  precious 
tanks  for  the  last  watering,  to  make  it  white.  We 
have  already  600  lb.  put  up,  mostly  in  10  lb.  bags  ; 
and  as  there  is  a good  deal  of  work  connected  with 
it,  from  beginning  to  end,  1 hope  it  will  realize  at 
least  ii\  6d.  per  lb.  I know,  when  I was  in  Melbourne, 
a chemist  in  Ballarat  was  selling  our  arrowroot 
(Aneityumese)  at  3^.  6d.  per  lb.  Now,  though  I have 
no  ill-will  to  the  worthy  man,  seeing  I don’t  even 
know  him,  I would  rather  see  the  Mission  get  the 
3-s\  6d.,  if  the  arrowroot  should  rise  so  high  again  ! 

The  Natives  are  still  making  more,  and  the  de- 
mands upon  me  for  calico  have  been  endless.  After 
ransacking  boxes  for  every  inch  that  could  be  got 
to  dry  it  upon  and  to  make  bags,  I had  to  sacrifice 
all  my  common  sheets  and  tablecloths ; and,  while 
trying  to  bear  up  under  this  calamity  with  Christian 
fortitude,  John  roused  all  the  old  Adam  in  me,  by 
coolly  bidding  me  be  quick  and  get  out  my  linen  ones 
and  best  tablecloths,  as  it  was  a splendid  day  for 
drying ! I emphatically  declared  that  my  few  best 
things  should  remain  untouched,  though  the  Natives 
should  never  get  their  books  ; and,  by  a little  man- 
agement in  making  the  others  do,  I have  kept  to  my 
wicked  vow. 

This  is  the  first  donation  from  our  Natives  in  money, 
or  what  can  be  converted  into  money;  and  John 
thinks  that  in  a very  few  years  the  Mission  may 
be  self-supporting.  For  my  part,  I think  that  our 


.500 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAW 


Natives  have  done  pretty  v/ell  so  far,  it  never  having 
cost  the  Church  one  penny  either  for  the  erection  or 
up -keep  of  Church  and  School  buildings,  which  is 
more  than  can  be  said  of  most  Missions.  But  it  will 
be  grand,  if  this  little  island,  with  its  limited  re- 
sources and  inhabitants,  can  learn  to  support  its  own 
Missionary.  . . . 

It  is  now  the  first  of  August,  though  I see  that  I 
began  this  on  the  eighth  of  July,  and  I have  not 
begun  to  write  a single  private  letter,  and  so  many 
to  answer  ; and  the  huge  piles  which  made  our  eyes 
dance  with  joy  on  receiving  them,  are  regarded 
rather  ruefully  now  that  we  have  got  to  reply  to 
them  ! I must  leave  out,  therefore,  all  other  items 
of  interest  which  I intended  writing,  as  this  is  already 
far  too  long — and  close  with  warmest  love  from 
Your  ever  loving  sister, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 

P.S. — September  5 th . — As  I’ve  kept  my  grand 
item  of  family  news  till  now,  I’ll  verify  the  saying 
that  a woman  puts  what  most  interests  her  into  the 
postscript,  in  here  introducing  by  far  the  most  im- 
portant personage  in  the  house: — viz.,  “ Walter  Watt 
Paton” — the  finest  little  fellow  that  ever  was,  and 
a fortnight  old  yesterday ! He  introduced  himself 
on  August  2 1st,  was  exhibited  to  his  admiring 
fellow-islanders  in  the  Dining-Room  on  the  25th, 
between  the  Services,  and  the  “ Wahaws  ! ” and  “ Kai 
Missis  ! ” that  resounded  through  the  room  as  Mr. 


“ NOBLEST  WORK  ON  EARTH 


301 


Watt  lifted  the  shawl  to  let  each  one  take  a peep 
would  have  convinced  you  that  the  boy  is  something 
beyond  the  common  ! He  was  baptized  last  Sabbath 
by  our  dear  brother-Missionary  Mr.  Watt,  Mrs.  Watt 
taking  him  into  Church,  as  I was  unable  to  go.  We 
can  never  forget  all  their  kindness,  in  coming  over 
to  be  with  us  at  this  time,  when  it  was  anything 
but  convenient  for  them  to  leave  Tanna ; and  we 
don't  know  what  could  have  been  done  without  their 
thoughtful  care  and  help,  for  John  has  been  going 
about  with  his  left  arm  in  a sling,  having  smashed 
two  of  his  fingers.  . . . 

I think  I have  got  over  the  disappointment  of  its 
not  being  a girl , as  I wished  ; and  John  is  in  the 
seventh  heaven  of  gratification  at  having  another 
“little  Missionary”  to  devote  to  “the  noblest  work 
on  Earth!”  He  tried  hard  to  bring  me  up  to  the 
scratch,  and  said  that  surely  I would  not  withhold 
my  fifth  son  from  the  Mission  field  ; but  I maintain 
that  I take  higher  ground  still,  in  dedicating  this 
little  lamb  like  all  the  others  to  my  Lord,  and  letting 
Him  choose  their  life-work.  He  shall  have  them  all 
for  the  Mission  field,  if  He  calls  them  to  it,  for  I 
know  that  in  that  case  He  will  give  me  the  necessary 
— wcl  1 hardly  like  to  come  out  with  it,  resignation  ! 

That  word  makes  John  groan  in  spirit  ; but  I 
find  that  those  very  noble  women  whom  he  holds 
up  as  examples  to  me,  in  devoting  all  their  sons  from 
infancy  to  be  Missionaries,  and  whose  only  regret 
is  that  they  have  not  another  dozen  to  dedicate, 


302 


THE  MADNESS  OF  MUNGAIV 


have  never  been  in  the  Mission  field  themselves.  I 
once  met  a lady,  whose  only  son,  she  told  me  with 
kindling  eyes,  had  been  dedicated  to  the  Mission 
field,  and  her  greatest  earthly  wish  was  to  see  him 
ready  to  go.  I looked  at  the  woman  with  a respect 
amounting  to  awe  ; but  the  bump  of  reverence  not 
being  too  largely  developed,  it  soon  gave  way  to 
curiosity  as  to  what  her  ideas  of  the  Mission  field 
really  were.  I found  that  she  laboured  under  the 
impression  that  her  boy  had  only  to  get  on  to  a 
Heathen  island,  and  hold  up  the  Bible  amongst 
an  interesting  group  of  Ethiopians,  who  with  out- 
stretched arms  had  been  crying  in  vain,  “ Come  over 
and  help  us  ! ” Now,  having  been  behind  the  scenes, 
and  knowing  what  it  actually  costs,  my  dedication 
of  them  will  be  worth  something  when  it  comes  ! 

M.  W.  P. 


XV 

SLAVERS  AND  FRIENDS 
(to  the  family  circle) 

Aniwa,  New  Hebrides, 

July  19th,  1879. 

My  dearest  Sisters  and  Brothers, — As  Bob 
thought  my  last  journal  too  much  of  a murder  story, 
I promise  that  nothing  of  that  kind  shall  occur  here, 
and  I begin  with  something  more  in  his  and  Fred’s 
line — what  they  would  call  rather  a “ sell  ” that  we 
had,  and  on  Minn’s  birthday  too,  so  it  will  interest  all 
the  three. 

It  was  a few  days  after  the  Day  spring  left  us  for 
Sydney  last  December,  and  we  were  feeling  the 
loneliness  that  always  comes  over  us  for  a little, 
when  we  are  left  for  the  season  by  our  only  link 
to  the  outer  world.  Papa  was  late  in  the  evening 
finishing  some  out-door  work  with  the  Natives,  and 
I was  sitting  alone  with  an  intense  yearning  to  know 
what  our  “wee  wifie”  was  doing  on  her  birthday. 
Being  unable  to  battle  with  the  fevered  longing  for 
one  sight  of  them  all,  I took  Baby  up  and  began  to 
pace  the  verandah  in  the  quiet  starlight,  giving  a 

303 


3°4 


SLA  VERS  A.XD  FRIENDS 


passing  glance  down  the  opening  to  the  sea.  The 
vision  of  a great  ship  seemed  to  rise  before  my  eyes, 
as  I withdrew  them,  and  I stared  again,  when  to  my 
amazement  there  loomed  out  in  the  dim  light  a large 
schooner  in  full  sail,  close  in  to  the  land,  and  framed 
like  a picture  by  the  trees  on  either  side.  Not  a soul 
had  seen  her  approach,  and  I eagerly  shouted  “ Sail 
O ! ” which  set  the  whole  place  ablaze  with  excite- 
ment in  a twinkling.  John  and  his  Blackies  came 
rushing  to  the  side  gate,  and  the  Girls  tumbled  out 
on  the  verandah  from  different  windows — howling 
that  it  might  be  the  French ! 

We  thought  it  might  be  one  of  the  English  “ gun- 
boats,” and  feared  they  might  have  landed  with  no 
one  to  receive  them  ; so  John  flew  to  his  room,  made 
a spring  into  his  clerical  suit,  and  dashed  out  at  the 
front  gate,  with  all  his  black  “ gentlemen-in-waiting  ” 
flying  helter-skelter  at  his  heels,  and  they  did  not 
slacken  speed  till  they  went  full  tilt  into  their  visitors 
about  half-way  from  the  house,  and  nearly  succeeded 
in  knocking  them  over  ! I had  delivered  little  Walter 
into  his  nurse’s  charge,  and  making  a dive  into  the 
Drawing-Room  had  barely  got  it  lighted  up  and  the 
antimacassars  arranged,  when  the  Girls  rushed  in 
to  announce  that  the  Missi  was  bringing  in  a lot  of 
“ ereat  Chiefs  as  tall  as  trees  ! ” So  I whisked  into 
the  Dining-Room,  fast  filling  with  excited  blackies, 
eager  to  know  if  it  was  a Man-of-War.  I was  as 
eager  to  be  informed  as  they,  and  waited  impatiently 
for  John  to  come  out  and  tell  me  who  our  visitors 


A SELL 


305 


were  ; but  never  a foot  did  he  stir  in  my  direction 
(perhaps  too  tired  with  his  race),  and  I was  left  in  a 
most  distressing  state  of  perplexity  in  regard  to  my 
costume ! 

I considered  myself  perfectly  well-dressed  for  a 
Trader,  having  on  a pretty  clean  print,  but  then  it  was 
slightly  old-fashioned  and  hardly  the  thing  for  Her 
Majesty’s  representatives  ! For  them , I wouldn’t 
grudge  to  wear  my  best  muslin,  with  black  velvet 
bows,  though  the  hot  night  might  fit  it  for  the  wash- 
tub.  Then  i had  not  a moment  to  lose,  in  case  they 
thought  I was  getting  myself  “ up  ” for  them,  and 
that  would  be  the  worst  calamity  of  all ! Just  fancy 
what  conflicting  emotions  were  rending  my  bosom. 
1 dispatched  a girl  to  ‘ keek  ’ and  tell  me  if  she  saw 
uniform , but  as  she  began  to  smother  a laugh,  I 
pulled  her,  and  down  she  fell  on  the  lobby  oil-cloth 
like  a clap  of  thunder  ! She  told  us  afterwards  that 
she  expected  the  Mcn-of-War  would  be  out  on  her, 
and  she  made  such  violent  efforts  to  regain  her 
footing,  that  she  brought  down  a shower  of  hats, 
sticks,  and  umbrellas  clattering  on  the  top  of  her, 
while  the  rest  of  us  were  gasping  with  suppressed 
merriment.  When  that  “to-do”  subsided,  I slipped 
along  myself,  and,  concluding  from  their  speech  that 
they  were  gentlemen,  I determined  to  be  “ genteel  ” 
at  all  risks.  So,  on  went  the  muslin  and  bows,  and 
after  giving  strict  directions  to  the  two  best-looking 
Girls  to  follow  in  five  minutes  with  the  salver  and 
cake-basket  (nothing  on  the  salver  but  milk  !),  I gave 

z<j 


3°6 


SLAVERS  AND  FRIENDS 


the  last  pull  to  the  dress,  straightened  myself  up,  and 
entered  the  Drawing-Room  with  a pleasant  smile,  to 
behold— two  villainous  Slavers,  with  nothing  on  but 
old  nether  garments  and  woollen  shirts ! 

Our  next  bit  of  excitement  was  on  New  Year’s 
Day,  when  the  usual  shooting  match  came  off,  and 
prizes  were  awarded  to  the  winners.  The  most 
amusing  part  to  us  was  the  racing  amongst  younger 
Boys  and  Girls.  The  Chief,  whom  John  had  placed 
in  charge  of  the  prizes,  would  put  a belt,  necktie,  or 
bit  of  red  calico  on  a post  at  a certain  distance  off, 
and  then  the  word  of  command  was  given  to  the 
eager  little  monkeys,  and  they  made  such  a scramble 
as  they  neared  it  ! The  grand  entertainment,  how- 
ever, the  Magic  Lantern,  was  reserved  for  the  evening, 
and  was  quite  a success.  Everybody  on  the  island 
that  was  able  to  crawl  at  all  put  in  an  appearance, 
including  two  old  bed-ridden  women,  who  set  out  in 
the  early  morning  and  managed  a journey  of  two 
miles  by  the  time  it  got  dark  ! John  had  all  Mr. 
Watt’s  slides,  as  well  as  his  own,  and  the  Natives 
were  in  perfect  ecstasies  of  delight  the  whole  evening  ; 
but  when  he  finished  off  with  “ the  revolving  light,” 
they  fairly  yelled  with  delight  and  amazement, 
declaring  it  must  be  “ Tetuas  ” (=gods)  who  made 
that  ! 

We  had  even  a more  exciting  time  that  night  week, 
though  by  no  means  so  pleasant,  as  it  came  in  the 
shape  of  a violent  hurricane,  which  has  certainly  left 
John  a ticket  of  remembrance,  for  he  has  never  been 


VIOLENT  HURRICANE 


3°7 


well  since.  It  began  on  the  evening  of  January  8th, 
and  raged  till  next  morning.  I was  never  so  little 
able  to  battle  with  an  event  of  that  kind,  being  ill 
at  the  time,  and  when  we  had  to  turn  out  of  bed 
(John  never  went  to  his)  to  face  the  blast  I was  too 
weak  to  stand.  But  out  we  must  go  ; the  house  was 
creaking  and  shaking  as  if  it  would  fall  any  moment, 
the  thatch  was  standing  on  end,  and  the  rain  coming 
down  in  bucketfuls.  The  lamp  was  the  occupant  of 
Walter’s  little  bed,  protected  round  with  curtains 
from  the  wind.  Frank  was  woke  up  to  get  dressed  ; 
and  John  rushed  out  with  Jay  rolled  in  blankets  to 
leave  him  in  charge  of  the  Girls  at  a safe  distance, 
but  not  one  was  to  be  found  on  the  premises.  They 
had  fled  into  some  cave  for  shelter,  so  he  had  to  lay 
the  child  down  asleep  and  fly  back  to  hurry  out  the 
rest  of  us.  He  got  Baby  and  me  enveloped  in  a 
pair  of  thick  blankets,  but  the  moment  we  reached 
the  door  they  flew  into  space!  Frank  was  got  out, 
and  Jay  found  again  with  difficulty  in  the  pitchy 
darkness,  still  uninjured — though  trees  were  flying 
like  hailstones — but  frantic  with  terror,  poor  wee  man. 
We  were  all  soaked  to  the  skin,  ere  we  had  gone  two 
steps — all  except  Baby,  as  I bent  nearly  double  over 
him,  remembering  poor  Baby  McKenzie  in  the  Fate 
hurricane — and  glad  we  were  to  reach  the  Cellar  door 
in  safety. 

You’ve  had  hurricanes  described  often  enough,  and 
this  one  proceeded  in  the  usual  style  ; only  I vowed 
to  put  down  a pair  of  speaking-trumpets  in  our  next 


3°S 


SLAVERS  AND  FRIENDS 


Colonial  order,  the  wind  made  such  a deafening  roar. 
Worse  than  the  storm,  and  night  refuge  in  the  Cellar 
is  the  return  to  the  desolate,  miserable-looking  house, 
picking  our  way  over  fallen  trees,  branches,  bits  of 
thatch,  etc. — walks  that  were  trim  and  neat  the  day 
before  nowhere  to  be  seen.  When  we  got  into  the 
house,  our  clothes  still  wet  and  clinging  around  us, 
the  first  thing  John  did  was  to  shovel  out  the  water! 
Broken  windows  greeted  us  on  every  hand — blankets, 
mattresses,  curtains,  mats,  everything  soaking,  and 
all  covered  inches  thick  with  nasty  black  debris  from 
the  thatch — boxes,  drawers,  and  their  contents,  all 
managing  to  come  in  for  a share  of  the  rain.  No 
houses  were  blown  down,  at  least  not  at  the  Mission 
Premises,  and  it  was  not  the  most  violent  hurricane 
we’ve  had  ; but  owing  to  the  week  of  incessant  rain 
which  followed,  when  we  could  get  nothing  dried, 
and,  I suppose,  our  being  less  able  to  endure  it,  it 
told  more  upon  us  than  any  previous  storm. 

I managed  to  keep  up  for  an  hour  that  weary 
morning,  making  a desperate  effort  to  get  things  a 
little  tidy  ; and  then,  yielding  to  John’s  entreaties,  I 
sank  into  bed.  He  had  got  mattresses  brought  to  a 
dry  corner  in  one  of  the  rooms,  putting  dry  things 
over  all,  and  there  I lay  for  a week  between  death 
and  life.  Rain,  rain,  incessant  rain,  the  whole  time  ; 
and  John  at  last  left  without  a dry  change  ! Splendid 
for  his  rheumatism  ! But  fortunately  he  did  not  feel 
it  at  the  time  ; it  is  bad  enough  for  the  mistress  of 
a house  to  be  laid  aside  at  such  a season.  It  was  a 


MISCHIEVOUS  GIRLS 


3°9 


great  blessing  that  Baby  had  such  a splendid  nurse  ; 
but  all  the  other  Girls  had  been  married  off,  except 
little  smitchets  who  were  too  young  to  be  useful. 
They  were  adepts  in  mischief  though.  The  two  newest 
comers  distinguished  themselves  by  emptying  sugar- 
basins,  etc.,  as  fast  as  they  were  filled,  spiriting  away 
whatever  took  their  fancy,  and  cheating  poor  John 
right  and  left  almost  under  his  very  nose,  helping 
him  to  look  for  the  missing  articles  with  the  most 
innocent  faces  imaginable  ! They  danced  out  in  the 
rain  to  their  hearts’  content,  lay  down  at  night  in 
their  wet  clothes,  and  took  midnight  rambles  on  the 
beach.  Altogether,  they  managed  to  make  the  time 
pass  most  agreeably,  till  I got  an  inkling  of  things 
from  one  of  the  washerwomen,  and  dispatched  them 
home  instantly  with  a message  to  their  parents  to 
take  charge  of  them  till  I was  able. 

After  that  dismal  week,  things  grew  brighter  ; the 
sun  burst  forth,  and  the  house  was  turned  inside  out 
to  get  dried,  but  some  of  the  matting  was  ruined. 
What  tremendous  washings  we  had  ! The  tanks  had 
been  filled,  and  the  whole  island  now  shone  verdant 
after  the  long-continued  drought.  There  was  a 
“ needs  be  ” for  all  the  dark  rainy  days  we  had  gone 
through.  The  whole  house  was  re-thatched  ; and 
then  I determined  to  inaugurate  the  great  annual 
cleaning  to  save  another  turn  up,  though  two  months 
before  the  usual  time. 

Just  as  we  were  in  the  middle  of  it,  however,  and 
had  set  all  hands  to  work  so  as  to  whitewash  the 


3io 


SLAVERS  AND  FRIENDS 


whole  house  in  one  day,  there  was  a cry  of  Sail  O ! 
A Man-of-War,  they  declared,  even  to  the  very 
smoke.  I sank  down  panic-struck.  Not  a hole 
ready  for  their  reception  ! Our  own  room  and  the 
Dining-Room  were  nearest  completion,  but  would  not 
be  habitable  till  evening  ; and  there  were  all  the  old 
sticks,  exposed  to  view  in  the  midday  blazing  sun, 
a very  different  thing  from  seeing  them  in  cool  shady 
rooms  dressed  up  in  bright  chintz  and  fancy  work  ! 
John  had  no  such  concern,  and  only  grudged  having 
to  leave  his  precious  Study  to  our  tender  mercies 
while  he  went  off  to  the  boat  landing. 

The  vessel  turned  out  to  be  a Slaver , and  sent 
in  a boat  with  Native  crew  and  two  white  men  in 
search  of  Natives.  The  boat  kept  in  deep  water 
just  outside  the  reef,  and  some  Aniwans  waded  out 
and  were  shouted  to  in  Sandal-wood  English.  They 
wanted  men  or  boys,  and  would  give  a musket 
for  every  one  they  got.  Our  Natives  shouted  back 
that  they  were  Missis  worshipping  people,  and  did  not 
want  to  go  with  Traders.  One  of  the  white  men 
stupidly  (it  must  have  been  in  fun)  levelled  a musket 
at  one  of  our  Natives,  when  the  cap  snapped  and 
set  the  Natives  in  a great  rage,  believing  that  he 
tried  to  kill  some  of  them.  The  man  levelled  at,  a 
fiery  fellow,  a returned  labourer,  flew  for  his  musket, 
and  would  have  made  short  work  with  the  white 
man,  had  not  John  and  the  Church  Members  inter- 
fered, John  actually  standing  right  between  him  and 
the  boat  to  prevent  shots  being  fired.  He  waved  the 


TRADERS'  LIES 


3U 

boat  off  with  his  hat,  pointing  to  the  armed  man, 
which  they  seemed  to  comprehend,  and  after  return- 
ing hats  they  made  for  the  ship,  which  soon  disappeared 
in  the  horizon. 

I was  annoyed  enough  at  John  exposing  himself, 
not  that  a person  on  Aniwa  now  would  harm  him, 
for  I often  wish  that  they  loved  their  Saviour  as 
much  as  they  do  their  Missionary,  but  it  is  seldom 
one’s  duty  to  stand  in  the  way  of  loaded  muskets  ! 
You  would  hardly  believe,  though,  the  kind  of  thanks 
he  got  from  the  wretches  he  tried  to  save.  They 
went  to  Fate,  and  wrote  out  a paper  to  the  effect  that 
they  had  called  at  Aniwa  for  labourers,  but  that 
the  Missionary,  Mr.  Paton,  had  come  out  to  attack 
them  at  the  head  of  an  armed  party.  The  man  in 
charge  of  the  boat,  however,  had  Mr.  Paton  covered 
with  his  rifle,  so  that  had  a single  shot  been  fired 
into  it  he  would  have  fallen  in  revenge.”  And  the 
paper  has  been  posted  up  on  the  door  of  the  principal 
store  in  Havannah  Harbour  ! Those  are  the  sort  of 
men  authorized  by  our  British  Government  to  scour 
these  Islands.  We  were  perfectly  thunderstruck 
when  Mr.  McDonald  happened  to  mention  it  to 
John,  after  he  had  decided  to  go  North,  in  case  he 
should  see  it  himself.  Mr.  McDonald  sees  enough 
of  the  Traders  and  their  doings,  and  treated  it  with 
amused  contempt,  as  it  deserved. 

It  is  nearly  as  bad  as  the  Nguna  case,  where  the 
chief  mate  of  the  Jason  swore  in  a Queensland  law- 
court  that  the  Rev.  P.  Milne  caused  the  Natives  to 


3'2 


SLAVERS  AND  FRIENDS 


fire  into  his  boat.  A Man-of-War  was  dispatched  to 
inquire  into  the  proceedings  of  this  dreadful  Mis- 
sionary, and  it  was  proved  that  poor  Mr.  Milne  was 
sound  asleep  in  his  bed  (it  was  early  morning),  and 
did  not  even  know  of  the  affray  till  months  after  it 
happened.  It  was  the  two  husbands  of  two  Native 
women,  that  this  honest  mate  was  trying  to  make  off 
with  (and  did  make  off  with),  that  owned  to  having 
fired  the  shots!  It  is  not  the  first  time  that  John  has 
interfered  to  save  the  worthless  lives  of  these  Slavers  ; 
but  the  whole  fraternity  may  be  riddled  with  bullets 
before  I consent  to  his  stirring  his  finger  again  in  their 
miserable  quarrels. 

Notwithstanding  the  hurricane,  this  last  hot  season 
was  a most  charming  one  compared  to  the  previous, 
when  poor,  poor  Mungaw  kept  us  in  such  constant 
terror.  It  was  strange  that  the  anniversary  of  his 
murder  should  be  ushered  in  with  the  most  tremen- 
dous thunderbolt  conceivable,  causing  everybody  on 
the  island  to  spring  out  of  bed  in  terror,  supposing 
in  the  first  moments  of  consciousness  that  some  one 
had  fired  a cannon  right  into  their  ears.  The  loud- 
ness of  the  report,  however,  and  the  roars  of  thunder, 
proclaimed  it  to  be  Heaven’s  artillery.  It  occurred 
a few  seconds  after  midnight,  and  we  thought  the 
island  must  have  been  split  in  two,  but  no  real 
damage  was  done.  The  Natives  were  greatly  im- 
pressed with  the  coincidence,  and  did  not  fai  to 
inform  Mungaw’s  murderer  of  it  in  the  deafest  side 
of  his  head — adding  that  Jehovah  was  showing  H.s 


DESPAIRING  LOVERS 


3i3 


strength  now,  and  letting  him  see  what  he  would  get 
if  he  did  not  repent  of  his  conduct,  both  he  and  his 
accomplice  ! 

Litsi  has  since  consoled  herself  with  another 
husband,  related  to  poor  Mungaw,  and  a real  love- 
match,  as  they  both  freely  confessed.  Litsi  was  as 
playful  and  coy  over  it  as  a young  lassie  ; though 
when  she  stood  up  for  the  ceremony,  she  whisperingly 
informed  the  by-standers  with  a giggle  that  she  didn’t 
want  to  get  married  ! I suppose  she  thought  some 
pretence  of  an  apology  necessary  for  her  third 
appearance  in  that  Church  as  a bride.  We  felt 
thankful  when  the  marriage  was  past,  for  there  had 
been  the  usual  scramble  to  get  her,  and  consequent 
bitterness  of  feeling  by  the  rejected  ones — some  of 
them  far  handsomer  and  better  men  than  the  prize- 
winner. But  then  Noopooraw  had  shown  the  depth 
of  his  affection  by  threatening  to  kilt  her  if  she  did 
not  have  him,  which  according  to  Native  ideas  is  the 
strongest  expression  of  devotion,  and  is  precisely  the 
same  as  a wildly  enthusiastic  admirer  threatening  to 
kill  himself  in  similar  circumstances  amongst  you. 
The  despairing  lover  in  these  Seas  never  dreams  of 
taking  his  own  life,  but  hers  instead,  finding  that  pro- 
bably the  more  powerful  argument  of  the  two  ! 

We  had  another  marriage  among  my  Girls,  some 
time  before  this,  which  made  us  very  sad.  It  was 
dear  little  Kawiwi,  who  used  to  be  Bob’s  playmate 
when  he  was  a baby.  She  has  the  softest  and  most 
beautiful  gazelle-like  eyes  I ever  saw  in  a Native,  and 


3>4 


SLAVERS  AND  FRIENDS 


has  been  with  us  since  she  was  quite  a little  thing, 
so  her  wedding  was  a great  affair.  There  was  no 
“ bad  talk  ” about  it,  as  she  had  been  promised  by  her 
parents  some  years  previously — only  our  herd , Joiner, 
a handsome  boy,  decidedly  objected  to  her  being 
given  away  to  a man  who  had  two  dead  wives  already, 
and  opened  his  heart  to  John  one  evening  upon  the 
subject,  pleading  with  him  to  get  the  match  broken 
off  more  than  a year  ago.  John  referred  him  to  her 
father,  but  he  seemed  to  lack  courage,  so  the  old 
engagement  was  adhered  to  and  the  wedding  finery 
finished. 

The  evening  before  the  ceremony,  Kawiwi  slipped 
into  the  Study  and  sat  down  on  the  floor — rather  an 
unusual  proceeding — with  the  great  tears  dropping 
from  her  eyes.  That  drew  forth  John’s  whole 
sympathies ; and,  finding  that  it  was  about  her 
wedding,  he  sent  for  her  father  at  once,  and  we  had 
a long  talk  with  him.  In  his  first  surprise  and 
indignation,  he  spluttered  out  that  he  would  shoot 
her  if  she  dared  to  say  a word  against  it  ; but,  being 
really  a tender-hearted  father  (and  in  the  presence 
of  the  Missi  moreover  !),  he  calmed  down  quickly 
and  apologized  for  his  rough  words,  saying  they  came 
from  his  mouth  only , not  his  heart.  We  begged  her 
to  speak  out  her  mind  freely,  if  she  would  rather  have 
“Joiner”  (John  was  secretly  attached  to  “Joiner’s” 
cause),  but  all  that  could  be  got  out  of  her  was, 
“ Let  the  wedding  be  delayed  for  a while.”  Her 
father  alluded  pathetically  to  the  pigs  that  had  been 


MARRIAGE  AND  LOVE 


3T5 


killed  for  them  by  the  bridegroom,  and  showed  how 
awkwardly  it  placed  him  after  receiving  them — she 
should  have  spoken  out  sooner,  etc.,  etc.  But  we 
persuaded  him  to  do  as  the  poor  girl  wished.  He 
got  her  away  for  a while  next  morning,  however, 
and  reappeared  triumphant,  declaring  she  was  perfectly 
reconciled  to  the  wedding,  and  that  it  was  sorrow 
about  leaving  us  which  caused  her  tears ! They  had 
just  talked  her  into  it,  and  perhaps  frightened  her 
too,  for  she  returned  with  red  eyes,  only  crying 
bitterly  when  we  asked  if  she  were  willing. 

John  sent  again  for  her  father,  and  before  her 
dared  him  to  risk  the  girl’s  happiness  for  life  ; so  they 
got  her  outside  again  and  had  another  long  talk  with 
her.  The  principal  argument  would  have  caused 
great  amusement  in  a white  community,  for  I over- 
heard her  step-mother  saying  very  earnestly  : “ I can 
assure  you,  there’s  not  a Chief,  or  a creature  on  the 
island,  has  any  objection  to  this  wedding  except 
yourself,  and  how  can  you  object  when  everybody  else 
is  pleased ! ” We  had  our  turn  at  her  after  that, 
though  privately  (poor  lassie,  how  her  ears  were 
dinned  that  day  !),  and  besought  her  to  be  true  to  her 
own  heart  ere  it  was  too  late,  and  we  would  protect 
and  care  for  her  as  our  own  girl  and  she  could  still 
live  with  us.  She  seemed  by  this  time  determined  to 
go  through  with  it,  and  said  it  was  good  she  should 
marry  Kafoi  ; so  she  was  brought  up  to  the  stake,  a 
sweet  young  lassie  of  sixteen  ! Not  that  Kafoi  was 
a Bluebeard  by  any  means ; for  a kinder,  nicer- 


3 1 6 SLAVERS  AND  FRIENDS 

looking  little  man,  there  is  not  on  Aniwa  ; but  then 
she  did  not  at  all  love  him — and  John  said,  as  he 
stamped  indignantly  along  to  Church,  that  he  would 
sooner  follow  her  to  her  grave.  To  crown  all,  she 
turned  round  and  gave  John  such  an  imploring  look 
at  the  Church  door  as  sent  him  nearly  frantic,  and  he 
looked  pale  during  the  Service.  I had  a lump  in  my 
throat,  but  it  changed  to  palpitation  and  alarm  when 
it  came  to  Kawiwi’s  turn  (there  were  also  two  other 
couples  being  married),  and  John  would  not  take  the 
muffled  sound  she  gave  for  answer  to  the  momentous 
question  as  to  whether  or  not  she  would  have  the 
fellow  at  her  right  in  his  new  white  vest  to  be  her 
lawful  spouse,  etc.,  etc.  He  repeated  the  question 
very  gently  (as  if  to  encourage  her  to  say  No),  but 
out  came  the  affirmative  low  and  clear,  and  she  was 
done  for. 

Her  revenge,  however,  was  now  to  be  taken.  She 
came  to  bid  us  Goodbye  in  the  evening,  sobbing 
bitterly.  She  then  went  to  her  father’s  Village,  where 
Kafoi  had  made  a nice  new  house  for  them  both  ; but 
into  it  she  never  has  entered,  and  we  firmly  believe 
she  never  will.  She  is  gentle  and  sweet  to  them  all  as 
ever,  but  just  meekly  doin'.  Kafoi  bore  most  patiently, 
thinking  she  might  change  in  a few  months,  but  by 
that  time  the  young  lady  had  brighter  prospects. 
Her  old  flame,  “Joiner,”  had  gone  a voyage  in  the 
Dayspring  as  one  of  the  boat’s  crew,  when  his  year’s 
engagement  with  us  was  up,  and  had  learnt  to  sing 
In  the  Sweet  By-and-Bye  from  the  sailors.  He  came 


ELOPEMENT  OF  KAWIWI 


317 


back  full  of  it,  and  begged  John  to  translate  it— 
which  he  did,  chorus  and  all— and  wc  had  a fine  large 
Singing  Class  every  evening,  with  the  piano  wheeled 
into  the  Dining-Room.  I took  the  bass  with  the  Boys, 
as  the  Girls,  who  have  decidedly  the  best  voices, 
needed  no  help  with  the  air.  I never  saw  them  enter 
so  heartily  into  any  hymn,  and  they  manage  the 
parts  well.  They  would  have  sung  the  whole  night 
if  they  might,  and  would  go  into  the  Cook-House  after 
I dismissed  them  and  have  a rehearsal  there. 

We  now  fear,  however,  that  it  was  at  these  meetings 
that  “Joiner”  and  Kawiwi  resumed  their  former 
intimacy  ; at  any  rate,  not  very  long  afterwards  she 
eloped  with  her  “ true  true  love,”  in  broad  daylight, 
under  cover  of  attending  a little  Bible  Reading  which 
I have  with  my  Girls  every  Sunday  afternoon  ! It 
was  an  awful  blow  to  us  all,  and  there  was  little  sleep 
that  night.  Next  morning,  the  Islanders  rose  to  a 
man — except,  of  course,  the  offenders — and  came  to 
ask  John  what  was  to  be  done,  as  some  course  must 
be  taken  to  punish  the  desperadoes  in  that  Village,  who 
had  long  kept  the  whole  island  in  disquiet  by  their 
wicked  deeds  from  time  to  time  and  were  only  getting 
the  more  emboldened  by  forbearance.  They  said  that 
“ Joiner  ” would  never  have  dared  to  act  thus,  if  he 
were  not  thoroughly  backed  up.  John  frankly  told 
them  that  it  was  easier  for  him  to  say  what  was  right, 
than  to  advise  them  as  to  what  was  expedient,  as  the  two 
villains  (Mungaw’s  murderers)  in  that  Village  would 
think  no  more  of  shooting  a few  of  them  than  of 


SLAVERS  AND  FRIENDS 


318 


breathing,  in  fact  would  enjoy  the  excitement,  and  he 
told  them  to  pray  for  and  expect  guidance  before 
deciding. 

They  did  so — I think,  with  their  minds  made  up 
beforehand  to  go  in  a body  and  demand  them  to 
deliver  up  Kawiwi  or  take  the  consequences.  Poor 
“ Joiner  ” and  his  friends  didn’t  wait  for  consequences, 
but  made  clean  heels  into  the  Bush,  the  moment  they 
caught  sight  of  the  two  armed  Chiefs  heading  the 
large  party,  and  left  poor  Kawiwi  to  entertain  her 
visitors  alone.  She  was  soon  marched  back  to  her 
Village  by  a guard  of  honour  ; and  then  the  business 
of  the  day  commenced,  and  the  ringleaders  were 
rewarded  for  all  their  evil  deeds.  Houses  were  burnt, 
plantations  demolished,  and  the  food  divided  among 
the  warriors.  Their  next  effort  was  to  secure  the 
pigs  ; but  they,  like  their  owners,  took  to  their  heels 
and  hid  in  the  Bush — so  they  contented  themselves 
with  what  they  had  done,  and  left  a message  for  the 
delinquents  to  the  effect  that  they  had  only  attacked 
their  property  this  time,  but  if  they  ever  again  tried 
to  set  the  Worship  at  defiance  they  would  attack 
themselves.  The  Chief  of  that  Village,  himself  a good 
man,  stood  by  and  concurred  in  all  that  was  done, 
saying,  as  he  had  often  done  before,  that  he  was 
broken-hearted  with  them.  John  also  approved  of 
all  that  was  done,  and  was  relieved  beyond  measure 
that  it  was  accomplished  without  bloodshed.  The 
Chiefs  finished  up  to  him  the  recital  of  the  day’s 
work,  triumphantly  declaring,  And , Missi , they'il 


JOY  ON  ERROMANGA 


3 1 9 


never  dare  call  us  Women  after  this.  That  Village 
has  certainly  kept  a “calm  sough”  ever  since,  and 
“Joiner”  has  found  it  convenient  to  pay  a visit  to 
Aneityum. 

It  is  getting  very  late,  and  I must  pass  over  all  else 
and  tell  you  what  a charming  time  we  had  at 
Erromanga,  where  the  Mission  Synod  was  held  this 
year.  Mrs.  McDonald  and  I were  the  only  ladies  to 
keep  Mrs.  Robertson  company ; and  I was  compli- 
mented upon  now  being  the  “ Mother  ” of  the  Mission, 
and  carrying  my  honours  quite  becomingly — having 
become  plump  and  vigorous  since  the  hurricane.  . . . 
It  seemed  like  fairy-land  to  enter  dear  Mrs.  Robert- 
son’s pretty,  shady,  cool  house  after  enduring  two 
days’  suffocation  with  the  horrid  bilge  water  on  board 
the  Day  spring.  . . . Every  day  brought  us  fresh 
pleasure,  afternoon  rambles  on  the  mountains  and 
walks  by  the  river-course  up  that  beautiful  valley, 
when  “ the  brethren  ” were  at  liberty  to  dance  attend- 
ance on  us,  having  all  their  Synod  business  over  before 
dinner.  . . . How  pleasantly  those  days  flew  past, 
only  they  can  understand  who  have  been  shut  off  from 
kindred  spirits  as  we  are ! We  three  ladies  were,  of 
course,  all  that  could  be  wished  for  ; and  every  one 
of  the  Missionaries  was  kinder  than  another.  Even 
in  Synod,  where  Ministers  are  apt  to  indulge  in  the 
grace  of  candour  to  an  uncalled-for  degree,  there  was 
not  a jarring  word — owing  perhaps  to  that  bilge  water 
having  taken  all  the  bile  out  of  them  on  the 
voyage!  . . . 


320 


SLAVERS  AND  FRIENDS 


The  house  is  charmingly  situated  on  terraced 
ground  at  the  foot  of  a high  mountain,  near  the 
centre  of  the  Bay,  with  that  lovely  river  to  the  right 
flowing  past  within  a few  yards  of  the  enclosure.  . . . 
Our  eyes  were  constantly  wandering  off  to  the  lovely 
scene  before  us — and  one  with  a history  too  ! That 
very  river  was  once  reddened  with  the  blood  of 
Williams  and  of  Harris,  and  the  grass-covered  moun- 
tain towering  up  from  it  was  the  scene  of  the  Gordon 
tragedy — while  their  gravestones  gleam  white  through 
the  greenery  on  its  opposite  banks.  Dear  Mr. 
McNair’s  grave  is  close  beside  them.  All  looked  so 
peaceful  now,  with  the  Dayspring  lying  quietly  at 
anchor  in  the  Bay,  and  canoes  manned  by  Christian 
Natives  paddling  about  in  its  blue  waters  ! 

What  a contrast  to  those  former  days  of  blood  ; and 
even  a contrast,  as  the  Robertsons  told  us,  to  what 
they  had  to  suffer  only  in  January  last.  The  Heathen 
Chiefs  were  getting  fierce  at  the  rapid  strides  Chris- 
tianity was  making  all  round  the  island,  and  laid  a 
deep  plot  to  take  the  Missionaries’  lives.  They  chose 
their  time  well,  when  nearly  all  Mr.  Robertson’s  young 
men  were  away  at  Cook’s  Bay  ; and  you  may  imagine 
his  and  Mrs.  Robertson’s  feelings,  when  the  alarm  got 
up  one  night  as  they  sat  quietly  reading.  They  went 
into  their  bedroom  and  took  their  stand  beside  their 
three  sleeping  Children.  Escape  by  sea  was  impossible, 
even  could  they  get  to  their  boat — the  night  being 
stormy.  Mrs.  Robertson  turned  to  her  husband  and 
said,  “ Do  you  think  they  could  touch  those  sleeping 


THE  COURAGE  OF  YOMIT 


321 


lambs  ? ” He  smiled  bitterly, — “ What  do  they  care 
for  our  sleeping  lambs?”  Yomit,  a devoted  Erro- 
mangan  Teacher,  came  in  to  them,  and  she  turned 
to  him  saying,  “ O Yomit,  do  you  think  they  could 
have  the  heart  to  kill  those  little  sleeping  darlings  ? ” 
He  raised  his  arm  and  said,  Missi , they’ll  have  to  cut 
this  body  of  mine  in  pieces  ere  ever  they  get  near  them  ! 
He  started  off  and  collected  all  the  available  help 
necessary,  sending  secret  messages  overland  in  different 
directions  to  their  friends,  so  that  before  morning  the 
Mission  House  was  surrounded  by  two  hundred 
warriors  ready  to  give  their  lives  in  defence  of  their 
Missionary.  And  these  were  the  very  men  who 
murdered  the  Gordons— explain  the  change  ! Jesus 
has  been  amongst  them  ! . . . 

Our  visit  there  was  all  too  short,  as  the  Synod  lasted 
only  a week.  We  commemorated  the  Lord’s  Supper 
together,  on  the  Sabbath  evening  before  we  broke 
up.  One  evening  too  there  was  an  interesting  Bible 
Society  meeting,  at  which  John  was  Chairman  ; and, 
in  response  to  an  urgent  appeal  from  London,  Mr. 
Copeland  proposed  that  Missionaries  and  seamen 
should  all  add  a day’s  wages  to  their  usual  subscrip- 
tion—which  was  most  willingly  agreed  to.  . . . 

We  tore  across  from  Erromanga  with  a good  wind, 
landing  about  sun-down,  and  got  a warm  welcome 
from  our  dear  old  Darkies,  who  had  all  turned  out 
in  their  best  garments  to  meet  us — though  it  was 
pouring  rain.  John  went  on  in  the  Dayspring  to  be 
left  on  Tanna  for  a fortnight  at  Kwamera,  to  make 


21 


322 


SLAVERS  AND  FRIENDS 


some  small  return  for  the  Watts’  great  kindness  to 
our  Natives  while  we  were  in  Melbourne.  . . . He 
enjoyed  his  fortnight  there  intensely.  The  Mission 
Premises  were  like  a new  pin,  and  the  Tannese 
longing  for  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Watt’s  return  with  their 
whole  hearts.  Their  little  Boys  and  Girls  at  the 
Station  attended  to  John  so  faithfully,  and  continually 
followed  him  about,  asking  daily  and  often  in  a day 
the  same  question,  When  will  our  Missis  be  back  ? 
There  are  more  than  the  Tannese  longing  for  their 
return,  and  it  will  be  a glad  day  when  we  see  their 
dear  faces  again.  . . . 

John  has  decided  not  to  make  any  change  for 
another  year,  if  at  all  able  to  hold  on.  It  is  no  use 
now  for  me  to  pretend  I’m  delicate,  as  appearances 
so  tell  against  me  ! But  I insist  that  I’ve  got  heart 
disease,  and  that  only  the  sight  of  my  bairns  can 
cure  it.  Frank  and  I have  been  begging  and  plead- 
ing with  Papa  night  and  day  to  agree  to  a plan  I’ve 
set  my  heart  on — viz.,  to  get  all  the  three  down  by 
the  Dayspring  next  trip,  as  she  will  only  be  a month 
on  the  Islands  before  returning  to  Sydney,  and  that 
would  not  lose  them  much  schooling.  I should  not 
care  a straw  if  it  did  ! It  all  seems  so  feasible  ; for 
the  Dayspring  lies  a month  in  Sydney  this  time,  and 
there  would  be  time  to  prepare.  I know  that  dear 
Mrs.  McGregor,  and  Mr.  too,  would  fully  sympathize 
with  me  in  this  plan,  and  not  set  me  down  as  daft. 
The  bairns  would  go  back  all  the  better  for  the  change, 
arriving  in  Melbourne  again  a little  after  New  Year. 


A NATIVE  OVATION 


323 


Oh,  how  it  would  set  me  up  to  have  one  look  at  them  ; 
but  I fear  it’s  building  castles  in  the  air ! 

It  is  only  a week  yesterday  since  John  returned 
from  Kwamera,  and  was  overwhelmed  with  such  an 
ovation  as  he  never  yet  got  from  our  Natives.  They 
opened  their  hearts  to  the  most  unheard-of  generosity, 
and  actually  parted  with  their  precious  pigs  to  show 
their  love  for  him,  besides  a great  quantity  of  yam. 
They  also  gave  a present  about  half  the  size  of  ours 
to  the  Captain  of  the  Dayspring — pigs,  yams,  cocoa- 
nuts,  and  bananas.  His  were  laid  on  the  centre  patch 
ot  grass  before  the  house,  and  John’s  to  the  side  in 
front  of  the  Study  door.  The  pigs  (13  in  number!) 
all  tied  and  laid  out  to  be  seen  to  the  best  advantage 
(they  were  heard  too),  so  that  when  Captain  and  Mrs. 
Braithwaite  and  John  arrived  they  were  greeted  with — 

Pigs  to  right  of  them, 

Pigs  to  left  of  them, 

Pigs  in  front  of  them, 

Guzzling  and  grunting! 

How  they  did  grunt!  The  Captain  growled  out 
his  thanks  in  sailor’s  phraseology,  which  having  trans- 
lated John  walked  round  to  the  side,  followed  by 
his  grinning  Parishioners,  and  politely  thanked  them 
for  their  kind  gifts  to  us,  telling  them  that  it  was 
the  feeling  which  prompted  it  more  than  the  gift 
itself  which  he  valued.  I feel  that  he  was  telling 
the  truth  in  all  sincerity,  for  he  hates  the  very  sight 
of  pork,  and  whispered  aside  to  me,  “ What  on  earth 
are  we  to  do  with  all  these  beasts  ? ” . . . 


324 


SLA  VERS  AND  FRIENDS 


We  expect  the  Dayspring  in  about  a fortnight  to 
call  for  our  Mail,  and  as  I have  a very  large  one  to 
answer  it  is  time  it  were  begun,  for  we’ll  be  very  much 
interrupted  by  the  arrowroot  making.  The  whole 
of  the  Natives  are  busy  digging  it  up  at  present, 
and  the  premises  will  be  like  a beehive  in  a few 
days  when  they  begin  to  grate  it.  We  were  so 
pleased  to  be  able  to  tell  them  that  the  last  sold  so 
very  well,  through  the  great  kindness  of  Melbourne 
friends.  The  calico  in  the  South  Yarra  boxes — 
worth  its  weight  in  gold — is  being  sewed  up  into 
sheets  and  bags  for  drying  and  packing  it,  as  fast  as 
ever  we  can  ; but  we  hardly  expect  it  to  be  ready  to 
go  till  the  December  trip  of  the  Vessel.  They  are  to 
have  another  book  of  the  Bible  printed  in  the  Aniwan 
language. 

Ever  with  warmest  love, 

Your  loving  sister, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton 


APPENDIX  TO  XV 


(to  her  dear  sister-in-law) 

Aniwa,  New  Hebrides, 

July,  1879. 

My  DEAREST  Lizzie, — I wrote  a long  general 
Epistle  yesterday,  but  have  reserved  the  best  news 
for  you. 

Your  most  welcome  letters  of  August  last  arrived 
by  the  Dayspring  in  April,  and  were  greedily 
devoured.  The  February  packet  came  a month 
later,  just  as  we  were  leaving  for  Erromanga ; so 
we  did  not  get  them  looked  at,  till  we  arrived 
there. 

As  soon  as  we  got  on  board,  Mr.  Laurie  gave  us 
the  parcel  from  Home,  and  how  am  I to  thank  you  ? 
We  are  just  ashamed  of  all  your  kindness  from  time 
to  time,  and  have  never  yet  sent  you  a curio  in 
return  ; but  I'm  really  going  to  get  up  a box  of 
shells,  etc.  There  are  not  many  very  valuable 
specimens  here,  but  we’ll  send  the  best  we  can  get. 

We  were  two  days  going  across  to  Erromanga, 
as  it  was  a head  wind  ; and  I was  dead  sick.  But 
my  curiosity  and  Frank’s  eagerness  to  see  the  knife 
which  Fanny  wrote  about  rose  to  such  a pitch  that 

325 


326 


APPENDIX  TO  XV 


the  parcel  had  to  be  brought  on  deck,  the  second 
morning  ; and  even  their  Reverences  gathered  round 
to  behold  and  admire,  as  the  things  of  delight  were 
passed  from  hand  to  hand.  John  and  dear  Copeland, 
sitting  on  the  deck  and  their  backs  against  the 
Companion  near  me,  had  the  first  look.  The  House 
that  Jack  Built  and  John  Gilpin,  illustrated,  were 
heartily  laughed  over.  I was  badly  teased  about 
the  dash  1 was  going  to  cut  at  Erromanga,  in  my 
new  lace,  which  is  very  handsome,  and  far  too  kind 
of  your  dear  Mother  to  give  me  ! . . . 

It  is  queer  that  both  James  and  she  should  have 
been  guided  to  the  very  things  I most  need  ; for, 
do  you  know,  that  my  entire  stock  of  good  collars 
and  handkerchiefs  were  ruined  by  the  great  hurricane 
in  January.  The  japanned  box,  in  which  they  were, 
was  quite  forgotten  till  some  weeks  later ; and  then, 
on  raising  the  lid,  I had  to  lift  them  out  in  bits,  just 
to  be  thrown  away.  Thank  James  heartily  from  me 
for  the  dozen  fine  new  handkerchiefs,  as  I forgot  to 
mention  that  in  his  letter.  . . . 

Minn’s  heart  will  be  fairly  uplifted  with  her  beauti- 
ful brooch  ; which,  they  all  said,  was  the  prettiest 
in  silver  they  had  ever  seen.  I’m  just  vexed  at  all 
your  kindness — and  then  that  handsome  dress  for 
Baby,  a real  boy’s  costume  ! I must  admit,  though, 
that  he  admired  the  ball  most  of  all,  and  went 
sprawling  after  it  all  over  the  deck.  As  for  Frank’s 
knife , it  is  like  to  come  between  him  and  his  wits ; 
for,  boy-like,  it  is  the  thing  he  most  covets.  If  the 


THE  SLAVERS 


327 


Bairns  come  to  us  from  the  Colonies,  as  I want  them, 
the  next  trip,  the  brooch  is  to  be  put  on  Minn’s  plate 
on  her  birthday,  December  13th,  which  she  will  in 
that  case  pass  here  at  Home. 

By  the  way,  we  had  quite  a little  stir  here  on  her 
last  birthday,  just  a few  days  after  the  Day  spring  left 
us.  I was  waiting  on  John  for  tea,  which  was  very 
late,  as  he  was  at  some  out-of-door  work  with  the 
Natives  ; and,  Baby  being  restless,  I strolled  out  to 
the  verandah,  giving  a careless  look  towards  the  Sea, 
as  I moved  along.  What  was  my  amazement  to 
behold,  in  the  dim  light,  a Vessel  in  full  sail,  and 
close  in  to  the  shore  ! I thought  I must  be  dreaming, 
and  stared  again  to  make  quite  sure  ; but  there  she 
was  as  large  as  life,  a two-masted  schooner,  sailing 
slowly  past,  and  didn't  I shout  Sail  O ! John  and  his 
Niggers  came  running  to  the  side-gate  to  see;  and 
the  Girls  tumbled  out  of  all  sorts  of  odd  corners, 
trying  to  get  up  a whimper  about  a French  invasion, 
though  they  were  dancing  with  excitement  over  this 
new  sensation. 

John  thought  it  might  be  one  of  the  English 
Gunboats , and  sprang  into  his  most  respectable 
“blacks”  to  rush  out  and  receive  worthily  the  repre- 
sentative of  Her  Majesty.  He  had  a most  picturesque 
train  of  the  Darkies  flying  at  his  heels  ; and  they 
were  all  in  full  gallop  down  the  “brae”  leading  from 
our  gate,  when  they  came  bump  up  against  their 
visitors,  emerging  out  of  the  shadows  of  the  night. 
Meanwhile  I had  been  making  frantic  exertions  to 


328 


APPENDIX  TO  XV 


“ put  my  best  foot  foremost  ” in  the  Mission  House — 
had  got  out  my  Silver  Salver  (“  cabbaged  ” out  of 
my  housekeeping  in  the  Colonies),  and  had  arranged 
on  it  the  tumblers,  and  my  precious  frosted  crystal 
jug  filled  with  milk  ; had  cut  fresh  cake  for  the 
cake-basket,  lighted  up  the  Drawing-Room,  and 
placed  out  all  my  best  “ tidies,”  and  all  this  barely 
in  time  to  welcome  two  half-naked  Slavers!  They 
made,  however,  ample  apologies  for  their  attire,  and 
enjoyed  without  any  apology  the  milk  and  cake  as 
only  sailors  could.  John  and  I could  hardly  drink 
our  tea  for  laughing,  after  they  left — the  laughter 
would  recur  in  irrepressible  bursts  ; and  the  Natives, 
who  have  instinctively  a very  keen  sense  of  the 
ludicrous,  yelled  and  shouted  and  jabbered  till  after 
ten  o’clock  at  night.  . . . 

Frank  has  had  a grand  laugh  at  my  expense  just 
now.  I was  praising  up  Baby  for  all  the  darlings 
and  Mother’s  pets  for  creeping  to  me  under  the 
table,  and  put  down  my  hands  to  protect  his  wee 
head,  when,  instead,  Master  Jim’s  (or  Jay,  as  he  styles 
himself)  curly  pate  bobbed  up ! He  is  a sturdy 
specimen,  with  golden  brown  curls,  and  the  most 
comical  speeches.  Last  Sunday  I was  reading  his 
little  “Peep  o’  Day”  about  Adam’s  fall,  and  explained 
that  it  had  made  us  all  naughty  ; but  Jay  had  no 
notion  of  being  responsible  for  his  forefather’s  trans- 
gression, and  said,  I’se  not  naughty.  I didn't  eat  de 
fruit ! What  theology  for  a Missionary’s  son  ! 

I think,  though,  that  our  wee  Walter  is  going  to 


THE  MOTHER-HEART 


329 


be  “ the  flower  of  the  flock.”  He  is  desperately 
interesting  at  present  ; full  of  fun  and  dimples  ; a 
very  pale  clear  complexion,  and  magnificent  dark 
eyes,  speaking  ones.  But,  a few  months  ago,  I 
thought  they  were  too  beautiful  for  this  world  ; and 
I used  constantly  to  say,  if  James  saw  them  (your 
James),  he  could  not  choose  but  sit  down  and  write  a 
screed  of  poetry  about  them  on  the  spot  ! They  had 
no  settled  colour,  and  varied  from  slate  colour  to 
purple  and  blue,  with  such  liquid  depths.  Now,  don’t 
you  think  I’m  daft ? Frank  decidedly  says  I am;  and 
one  day,  while  chattering  some  outrageous  nonsense 
to  my  Baby,  telling  him  I never  knew  what  true 
love  was  till  I laid  eyes  on  him,  etc.,  etc.,  Frank  said 
gravely,  What  fibs  you  do  tell,  Mamma!  Did  you  go 
on  like  that  to  all  your  Babies  ? I said,  “ Yes  ; I 
suppose  they  all  got  it  in  turns,”  and  the  rogue 
replied  with  mock  solemnity,  “Oh,  what  an  example 
to  set  before  your  children  ! It’s  a wonder  we  didn’t 
all  grow  up  story-tellers.”  . . . 

We  had  a charming  time  at  the  Synod,  and  the 
Robertsons  had  all  their  arrangements  made  to 
perfection  ; but  John  insists  that  I shall  write  my 
Journal  Letter  as  usual  (I  didn’t  mean  to,  having 
nothing  sensational  enough  !),  so  I needn’t  tell  you 
about  it  here.  It  was  there  we  read  your  February 
letters — they  had  been  stuffed  into  our  hands  as  we 
went  aboard — and  how  we  did  laugh,  Lizzie,  at  your 
description  of  the  Country  Managers’  and  Elders’ 
party  ! We  could  just  fancy  that  chap’s  “ recitation.” 


33° 


APPENDIX  TO  XV 


John  laughed  till  I had  to  order  him  to  be  quiet, 
for  fear  of  waking  the  Baby.  You’ll  have  to  order 
Bob  or  Fred  home  for  the  next  “cookie  shine,”  as 
they’ve  both  made  their  debut  as  public  performers. 
Fred  was  first,  the  young  monkey,  reciting  some 
story  at  a Band  of  Hope  meeting  ; and  Bob  followed 
suit,  next  night,  with  a parody  on  “Sir  John  Moore,” 
a laughable  piece  about  mosquitoes ! . . . 

O Lizzie,  my  heart’s  just  like  to  break,  when  I think 
of  all  their  little  ways,  and  I can’t  be  with  them  ! It 
was  always  such  a delight  just  to  open  the  door  for 
them,  on  their  return  from  School,  so  full  of  spirits, 
and  nearly  always  some  news  to  tell,  or  some  good- 
humoured  bit  of  mimicry  ; and  then,  if  they  had  got 
an  unexpected  holiday,  their  hurrahs  were  deafening. 
Fred  used  to  let  off  his  steam  by  lifting  me  clean  off 
my  feet  (weak  arm  and  all),  before  I knew  what  I 
was  about.  It’s  more  than  he  could  do  now,  for 
I’ve  got  so  strong  and  fat,  plumper  than  I have  been 
since  our  marriage.  I’m  very  thankful  to  be  so  well, 
and  praise  God  for  this  and  all  our  family  joys. . . . 

I’ll  not  dare  read  over  this,  else  I would  be 
ashamed  to  send  it  so  far. 

Ever  with  best  love, 

Your  loving  sister, 

M.  Wiiitecross  Baton. 


XVI 

DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW 
(to  the  family  circle) 

Aniwa,  New  Hebrides, 

July,  1880. 

Ever  DEAR  ONES, — “The  fierce  light  that  beats 
upon  a throne”  is  just  nothing  to  the  way  that 
Missionaries  are  watched  and  commented  upon  in 
public  ! Have  seen  some  lovely  criticisms  in  an  old 
paper  that  came  in  the  Day  spring,  making  John  out 
an  accomplished  scoundrel,  for  selfishly  wishing  to 
keep  the  Natives  from  the  grand  benefits  which  the 
Slavers  can  offer  them  in  Civilization,  and  all  for  his 
own  gain.  Now,  between  those  brave  white  men 
(I  believe  they  call  themselves  men),  who  wax  valiant 
against  the  Missionary  when  he  is  too  far  away  to 
see  or  reply  to  their  attacks,  and  the  Natives  who 
look  up  to  him  as  a sort  of  demi-god,  he  might  be 
tempted  to  wonder  what  sort  of  man  he  really  is ! 

One  poor  over-worked  skeleton,  who  was  brought 
back  from  the  Sugar  Plantations  to  die  lately,  had 
such  unbounded  faith  in  the  Missionary,  that  he  was 
perfectly  willing  he  should  negotiate  matters  for  him 

33i 


332 


DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW 


in  the  other  world.  He  did  not  know  where  he  was 
going  ; he  had  never  heard  the  name  of  Jesus,  all  the 
years  he  was  in  Queensland  ; but  he  trusted  in  the 
Missi  that  he  had  only  known  and  loved  for  a short 
three  weeks,  because  he  cared  for  him  like  a human 
being,  and  ministered  to  his  dying  wants.  It  is  not 
the  work  we  object  to  ; labour  is  to  them  and  to  us 
a blessing ; and  I often  wish  the  Natives  had  less 
time  for  idling,  and  “ bad  talk  ” about  witchcraft 
and  the  like.  Still,  Providence  has  neither  made 
them,  nor  meant  them,  for  such  toils  as  white  men  ; 
and  they  are  quite  of  this  mind,  having  the  means  of 
subsistence  all  easily  within  their  reach.  They  have 
not  the  stamina  we  have,  and  ought  not  to  be  forced 
to  exercise  what  they  have  not  got.  It  only  kills 
them.  The  worst  of  all  is  that,  so  far  as  facts  under 
our  observation  seem  to  go,  no  man  cares  for  their 
souls.  They  are  too  often  treated  as  mere  beasts 
of  burden. 

I must  admit,  however,  that  they  may  look  rather 
like  wild  animals  to  the  Planters,  if  they  are  Heathen 
Natives  ; and  their  expressions  won’t  be  any  the 
more  Angelic,  when  they  know  they  are  there  simply 
for  what  can  be  got  out  of  them.  They  feel  things 
of  that  kind  more  than  some  would  imagine.  On 
our  last  visit  to  Australia,  for  instance,  when  Yawaci 
was  with  us  as  Nurse,  and  treated  in  the  kindest 
manner,  she  had  many  a good  cry  over  the  way  that 
people  stared  at  her.  I did  not  know  of  this  till,  one 
day,  she  was  called  in  to  shake  hands  with  a worthy 


THE  BLUSHES  OF  A BLACK 


333 


friend  of  Missions,  who  settled  her  specs  properly  to 
take  an  inquiring  look  from  head  to  foot.  Yawaci 
slipped  out  of  the  room  ; and,  later  in  the  evening, 
she  sent  in  a note  by  one  of  the  Children  (they  write 
it,  even  when  staying  under  your  roof,  if  they  have 
anything  special  or  disagreeable  to  say),  saying : 
“ Our  Father  in  Heaven  made  us  all,  both  Black  and 
White  ; and  why  should  the  white  Children  stare 
and  stare  at  the  black  ones,  as  if  they  were  wild 
beasts  ? ” I flew  to  comfort  her,  and  reminded  her 
of  how  the  Aniwans  not  only  stared  at  us,  when  we 
first  arrived,  but  even  felt  us  all  over.  She  rejoined  : 
“ But  I don’t  think  you  would  feel  it  as  I do.  You 
were  above  us,  and  you  knew  it,  and  did  not  expect 
anything  better  from  Savages  ! ” 

Yawaci’s  perception  and  penetration  often  astonished 
us.  She  was,  indeed,  civilized  to  a degree,  and  fairly 
blushed  (I  can  tell  when  a Native  blushes,  from  the 
soft  warm  glow  that  suffuses  the  dark  skin),  when 
she  saw  the  nude  Statues  in  the  Fitzroy  Gardens, 
asking  if  they  were  put  there  “ to  show  how  dark- 
hearted  the  People  had  been  here,  before  they  took 
the  Worship There  was  a small-pox  scare  in 
Melbourne  at  that  time,  which  resulted  in  a decree 
going  forth  that  all  the  world  should  be  vaccinated, 
and  she  was  in  a perfect  “ stew,”  for  days  beforehand, 
at  the  idea  of  having  to  take  her  arm  out  of  her 
dress  in  presence  of  the  Doctor ! I was  so  very 
pleased  at  this  delicate  bashfulness  in  one  who,  a few 
years  before,  had  come  to  us  as  an  untutored  Savage. 


334 


DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW 


While  I write,  we  have  had  a prolonged  earthquake, 
which  always  leaves  me  like  a piece  of  animated 
jelly.  The  first  time  I ever  experienced  the  sensation, 
shortly  after  landing  on  Aniwa,  I imagined,  as  we 
were  roused  out  of  sleep,  that  it  was  the  Natives 
under  the  house  trying  to  kill  us  ; and  when  John 
said,  “Earthquake !”  the  sense  of  relief  was  heavenly. 
I never  before  felt  so  intensely  the  meaning  of  the 
Psalmist’s  words,  “ Let  me  fall  into  the  hands  of 
God,  and  not  of  men.” 

Polygamy  on  Aniwa  is  now  a thing  of  the  past, 
as  Waiwai,  the  only  man  who  clung  to  it,  lost  both 
his  wives  last  year.  They  were  both  exceptionally 
fine  women,  and  he  an  affectionate  husband,  and  one, 
moreover,  who  loved  plenty  of  attention  and  good 
living.  When  the  second  one  died,  he  came  very 
desolate-looking  for  a spade  to  dig  her  grave,  and 
said,  “ Missi,  there’s  a great  void  here.”  But,  instead 
of  laying  his  hand  upon  his  heart,  which  in  the 
circumstances  might  have  been  supposed  to  illustrate 
the  vacuum,  he  significantly  clapped  his  stomach, 
saying  he  had  no  food,  and,  Could  we  give  him 
some  tea  ? No  doubt,  the  poor  fellow’s  heart  was 
legitimately  sore,  when  he  thought  of  the  purris , the 
tamamotas , the  takcifis,  and  other  dainties  that  would 
be  cooked  for  him  no  more ! 

Not  another  chance  of  a wife  for  poor  Waiwai, 
either — women  of  all  sorts  at  a premium  on  Aniwa  ! 
How  scarce  they  are  you  may  better  understand, 
when  I tell  you  that  one  was  married  lately — without 


NATIVE  SENTIMENT 


335 


a nose ! It  had  been  lost  in  a conflict  with  her  late 
lamented  husband,  and  she  has  great  moral  courage 
to  tackle  another.  She  is,  however,  such  a con- 
scientious good  woman,  with  a sweet  disposition  ; and 
yet  I always  feel  nervous  about  meeting  her,  wishing 
oftentimes  that  she  would  not  insist  on  coming  to  the 
Mission  House,  as  she  does  most  religiously. 

Natives  indulge  very  little  in  what  you  call  senti- 
ment ; and  when  you  naturally  look  for  something  of 
the  kind,  you  are  often  met  by  hard  matter  of  fact. 
One  day,  I was  trying  to  reproduce  a grand  sermon 
I had  heard  in  Melbourne,  on  the  text,  “ He  saved 
others,  Himself  He  cannot  save,”  and  explained  how 
the  Lord  could  not,  because  He  would  not.  After 
entering  fully  into  the  subject,  and  trying  to  impress 
upon  my  audience  the  wonderful  love  of  God  in 
voluntarily  giving  Himself  a ransom  for  us,  I asked, 
why  He  stood  the  jeers  and  taunts  of  wicked  men, 
the  agony  of  the  Cross,  and  didn’t  come  down  and 
save  Himself?  The  staggering  answer  came  back, 
“ Why,  Missi,  because  He  was  nailed l ” 

Waiwai  gave  a telling  address,  that  day,  over  the 
open  grave,  urging  the  young  men  especially  never 
to  keep  anything  back  from  the  Lord,  as  he  had  done 
in  clinging  to  his  two  wives.  Barring  that  little  weak- 
ness, Waiwai  has  been  a great  help  to  us  from  the  first, 
a truly  lovable  man,  and  one  that  could  enter  into  your 
feelings.  It  was  he,  and  the  first  great  hurricane 
together,  that  gave  us  our  lovely  Sea  View.  He 
owned  the  thick  belt  of  trees  that  stood  between  our 


336  DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW 


house  and  the  shore ; and  when  the  hurricane 
destroyed  so  many  on  that  terrible  night,  that  we 
could  actually  see  a shimmer  of  water  between  the 
fallen  ones,  next  morning,  from  our  verandah,  I 
determined  with  Waiwai’s  assistance  to  complete  the 
havoc  so  auspiciously  begun.  I had  some  long  chats 
with  him,  and  told  him  how  insupportable  life  had 
been  without  a view  of  the  Sea,  that  no  landscape  was 
to  me  complete  without  water,  and  that  I was  born 
beside  the  Sea,  which  perhaps  explained  the  fascina- 
tion it  ever  had  for  me,  etc.,  etc.  The  result  was  that 
scores  of  great  trees  were  levelled  to  the  ground,  and 
gradually  cleared  away,  grass  being  planted  in  the 
vacant  space.  I paid,  of  course,  for  the  trees  and  the 
labour,  and  would  not  grudge  ten  times  the  amount 
for  the  lovely  view  of  the  Pacific,  which  mirrors  the 
most  glorious  sunsets  you  ever  saw. 

As  the  Sun  approaches  and  recedes  from  the  Winter 
Solstice,  it  sets  exactly  opposite  our  Aniwan  Home, 
and  we  can  see  it  sink  into  the  Ocean.  One  evening 
I can  never  forget,  when  John  and  I stepped  on  to 
the  verandah,  as  the  Sun  began  to  decline.  Sea  and 
Sky  gave  us  a new  revelation  of  the  Creator’s  glory. 
The  Sky  was  an  outpour  of  colour,  of  glorified  radiance 
and  mellowed  light,  every  shade  and  tint  reflected 
back  from  the  liquid  depths  of  the  Pacific.  One 
could  hardly  breathe  for  delight ; and  John  voiced  our 
mutual  thoughts  when  he  chanted  in  a low  and 
adoring  tone,  “ All  Thy  Works  praise  Thee  ! ” I 
forgot,  for  the  moment,  that  the  context  is,  “ And 


A HUGE  JOKE 


337 


Thy  Saints  shall  bless  Thee!”  Well,  we  were  un- 
consciously doing  this  ; and,  if  we  can’t  take  to 
ourselves  the  appellation  of  “ Saints,”  we  were,  at 
any  rate,  two  very  appreciative  Sinners. 

I often  think  John  a perfect  Saint,  indeed,  in  his 
whole-hearted  consecration,  and  singleness  of  aim  for 
God’s  glory  in  the  Conversion  of  the  Heathen  ; and 
yet  he  is  delightfully  human , if  you  rub  him  up  the 
wrong  way.  There  are  more  scenes  witnessed  from 
that  verandah  than  brilliant  sunsets  ; and,  before 
daylight,  a few  mornings  later  on,  we  saw  or  thought 
we  saw  what  turned  out  to  be  a huge  joke.  I had 
gone  out  for  a look  round  in  the  fresh  morning  air, 
and  thought  I saw  an  enormous  fish,  stranded  on  the 
reef  and  wriggling  to  get  free.  Muhow  was  sweeping 
the  verandah  ; and,  on  calling  her  attention,  she 
cried  excitedly,  Taffra!  Taffra!  ( = whale).  John 

was  called  out  ; and,  after  one  look,  he  set  up  in  the 
still  morning  air  what  he  conceived  to  be  the  Fish- 
Cry,  to  rouse  the  Natives.  They  failed  to  recognize 
it  as  such,  but  sprang  from  their  beds,  thinking  it 
was  either  murder,  or  the  Mission  House  on  fire— 
and  he  met  a number  of  men  rushing  to  the  rescue ! 

Hurried  explanations  thereon  followed,  and  eager 
excitement ; then  the  real  genuine  Fish-Cry  rent  the 
air  ; and,  in  less  time  than  it  takes  to  tell  it,  every 
man  and  boy  within  earshot,  with  whatever  weapon 
had  come  nearest  to  hand  — clubs,  spears,  muskets, 
sticks,  bows  and  arrows — was  flying  helter-skelter  at 
the  Missi’s  heels,  soon  leaving  him  in  the  rear,  clearing 


22 


338  DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW 


fences,  ditches,  fallen  trees,  everything,  in  the  chase, 
with  women  and  bairns  following  hard  in  the  train. 
All  this  we  saw,  from  our  vantage  ground  on  the 
verandah  ; and  we  also  saw,  what  in  the  brightening 
light  they  didn’t  see,  that  the  whale  turned  out  to  be 
the  huge  leafy  branch  of  a tree,  stuck  in  for  shade 
to  the  arrowroot  workers  of  the  previous  day,  with 
an  arrowroot  cloth  hanging  on  it  and  flapping  in 
the  wind.  In  the  dim  haze  of  the  dawning  light,  it 
had  indeed  looked  “ very  like  a whale  ! ” 

I really  thought  Muhow  would  have  gone  into 
hysterics.  She  lay  down,  and  shrieked  with  laughter, 
and  had  difficulty  in  keeping  her  face  straight  for 
more  than  a week.  To  this  day,  our  cheery  Natives 
will  still  go  off  into  roars,  at  the  faintest  suggestion 
of  whales  being  seen  about  ; and  even  Missi  has  had 
to  stand  no  end  of  twitting  on  the  subject  ! He 
admitted  to  having  calculated,  during  the  race,  how 
much  oil  he  might  secure  for  the  Mission,  never  wait- 
ing to  reflect  that  there  was  not  a single  appliance 
for  extracting  it ! 

He  might  have  managed  that,  somehow  ; for  he  is 
a perfect  “Jack  of  all  Trades,’’  and  tries  his  hand 
at  anything.  Once,  when  he  had  been  urging  me 
strongly  to  paint  some  of  the  beautiful  scenery 
around,  and  would  not  take  as  an  excuse  the  want  of 
time,  I brought  forward  the  want  of  an  easel,  as  mine 
had  been  left  behind,  and  declared  I couldn’t  paint  in 
the  open  air  without  one.  Nothing  more  was  said, 
and  I felt  relieved  ; as  the  Mother  of  a family,  and 


SKETCH  OF  VOLCANO  ON  TANNA,  BY  MRS.  PATON. 


PICNICING  AND  PAINTING 


34i 


a Missionary’s  wife  to  boot,  feels  she  must  lay  aside 
some  of  her  accomplishments  and  give  her  time  to 
“ the  trivial  round,  the  common  task.”  Not  that  the 
accomplishments  have  been  superfluous  ; she  gets  the 
benefit  of  them  every  day.  A knowledge  of  Drawing 
makes  one  admire  Nature  the  more — a sunlight,  a 
shadow,  a reflection,  having  meaning  and  beauty, 
not  likely  otherwise  to  be  perceived.  To  my  astonish- 
ment, however,  John  triumphantly  presented  me  with 
a properly  made  easel  one  morning,  saying,  “ Now, 
go  ahead  ! You  have  no  excuse.”  I did  not  imagine 
that  he  even  knew  what  an  easel  meant  ; and  here 
was  a perfect  though  rough  specimen — a door  hinge 
being  used  for  the  back  support. 

We  had  some  delightful  picnicing  after  that,  as 
I had  to  go  to  a distance  for  a view  of  the  Volcano 
on  Tanna  from  our  shores  ; and  then,  from  the  same 
point,  but  in  the  opposite  direction,  I took  Erromanga 
in  the  dim  distance,  with  some  canoes  that  happened 
to  be  on  the  water,  to  the  great  delight  of  their  owners. 
I painted  them  in  water-colours,  and  they  make  nice 
companion  pictures;  but  oh,  what  gems  they  would 
be,  if  only  I could  have  got  the  atmospheric  effects 
reproduced— -a  real  Artist  could,  but  they  are  lacking 
in  mine!  The  Natives  are  prouder  of  these  pictures, 
than  any  others  we  have  ; and  I have  got  no  end  of 
praise  from  them,  besides  a huge  Turtle  which  they 
presented  to  me  not  long  after — whereon  we  had 
quite  an  Aldermanic  dinner,  “with  real  Turtle 
soup.”  It  is  considered  “Chiefs’  food”  here,  and 


342 


DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW 


the  women  are  not  allowed  to  cook  it,  but  only  the 
men. 

John  has  been  translating  another  Gospel  ; and  we 
have  had  such  interest  for  days,  hunting  for  the  word 
tempt.  He  wanted  to  give  a good  rendering  of  that 
passage,  where  our  Saviour  was  answering  the  Jews, 
when  they  asked  whether  it  was  lawful  to  give  tribute 
to  Caesar — “ Why  tempt  ye  Me  ? Show  Me  a penny. 
Whose  image  and  superscription  is  this?”  Neither 
of  us  knew  a word  in  Aniwan  for  tempt ; and  John’s 
Pundit  seemed  to  think  there  was  none,  or  couldn’t 
be  got  to  understand  what  was  wanted.  It  is  so 
difficult  in  a Foreign  Tongue  to  put  just  such 
questions  as  may  elicit  the  word  you  want. 

After  consulting  several  of  the  most  intellectual 
Natives,  to  no  purpose,  we  sent  for  Litsi  Sore,  who 
had  been  with  me  once  in  Australia.  I reminded  her 
of  all  the  pretty  things  she  used  to  gaze  at  in  the 
shop  windows  of  Melbourne,  and  how  she  often  wished 
she  could  have  them.  “Now,  Litsi,”  I continued, 
“ what  did  those  people  try  to  do  to  us,  by  exhibiting 
all  those  pretty  things?”  She  replied,  “They  were 
trying  to  make  us  buy  them,  of  course ! ” We 
explained  that  we  wanted  to  know  if  there  was  an 
Aniwan  word  which  would  express  what  the  Shop- 
keepers were  doing,  in  making  us  wish  to  buy.  Her 
answer  was : “ Missi,  I see  what  you  mean  ; but 
there  is  no  one  word  for  it  in  our  language,  as  in 
yours.  We  can  only  say,  they  cause  us  to  covet!' 
So,  with  that,  John  felt  he  must  be  content. 


SKETCH  OF  ERROMANGA,  BY  MRS.  PATON. 

(As  seen  from  Annva.) 


WORDS  AND  WAILING 


345 


We  happened  to  sit  up  later  than  usual  that 
evening  ; and,  on  retiring  about  midnight,  we  were 
surprised  to  see  our  Cook  come  stealing  into  the 
room,  in  manifest  excitement.  He  said,  “ Missi, 
would  you  mind  breakfast  being  a little  late  to- 
morrow morning?”  I said,  “Certainly  not.  But 
why?”  “Oh,  I’ve  been  thinking  about  that  word 
the  Missi  wants,  and  I remembered  that  Lopu  (a 
man  in  a distant  Village)  is  half  Anivvan  and  half 
Erromangan  (the  Cook  himself  was  Erromangan), 
and  that  he  knows  both  languages  thoroughly.  I 
will  go  to  his  house,  before  daybreak,  with  my 
Erromangan  Gospel,  and  catch  him  before  going  off 
to  his  Plantation.  He  will  read  the  passage  in 
Erromangan  ; and  he  will  be  sure  to  know  if  there  is 
an  equal  word  in  Aniwan.”  He  did  so  ; but  Lopu  only 
confirmed  Litsi’s  version — to  tempt  is  to  cause  to  covet. 

As  I write,  I hear  the  wild  weird  music  of  the 
Death-Wail,  for  an  old  man  who  was  a great  favourite  ; 
and  they  are  recounting  all  his  good  deeds  in  a Native 
chant.  The  Wailing,  of  course,  is  not  all  sorrow ; 
they  set  about  it  as  deliberately  as  we  would  order 
Mournings;  and,  in  either  case,  the  louder  the  howling, 
the  deeper  the  crape,  there  is  too  much  that  is 
mechanical.  Besides,  they  always  count  on  a Great 
Feast  after  the  burial,  to  reward  them  for  all  their 
exertions.  I was  struck  with  their  cool  way,  when 
a sudden  death  occurred  here  on  Sunday.  At  the 
close  of  Service,  the  women  asked  me  not  to  have 
my  usual  Bible  Class,  as  they  had  to  go  and  wail. 


346  DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW 


I willingly  consented,  being  glad  of  a rest  through 
that  hot  afternoon,  and  was  trying  hard  to  get  my 
Husband  to  follow  my  example  and  stay  at  Home, 
when  a dear  old  woman  flattened  her  smiling  face 
against  the  window.  I said  that  I was  sorry  not  to 
have  had  the  Bible  Class,  if  any  of  them  were  waiting, 
but  she  replied  : “ They  have  all  gone  but  me,  Missi. 
My  throat  is  a little  sore  ; and,  you  see,  I could  not 
yell  loud  enough  ! ” 

The  old  man  in  question  used  to  be  called,  good- 
humouredly,  “ the  Missing  Link.”  It  is  convenient 
to  have  a pet  name  for  some  of  our  best-known 
Natives,  that  we  may  talk  of  them  without  arousing 
their  suspicions.  He  was,  in  appearance,  the  nearest 
approach  to  an  ape  of  any  man  we  had  ever  seen, 
and  would  have  delighted  the  heart  of  old  Darwin. 
You  may  be  sure,  the  Darwinian  theory  is  not  among 
the  doctrines  taught  to  our  Natives.  It  does  seem 
a preposterous  one,  even  here  among  the  lower,  if 
not  lowest,  types  of  Humanity.  It’s  not  the  absence 
of  the  tail  that  bothers  me.  Science  may  explain 
that  away,  and  a dozen  other  points  of  difference  ; 
though  I remember  hearing  an  interesting  lecture 
from  Du  Chaillu,  who  brought  Gorillas  to  Britain, 
proving  that  the  points  even  of  physical  difference 
were  too  great  to  be  explained  away.  It’s  the 
presence  of  the  Sou! — that  is  what  I never  can  get 
over.  There  certainly  is  an  unbridgeable  gulf  between 
the  noblest  animal,  a sagacious  dog  for  instance, 
without  this  soul,  and  the  lowest  specimen  of  Human 


A THICK  AND  BLACK  CLOUD 


347 


Nature,  say  a Savage  Cannibal,  with  one.  One  can 
receive  the  Gospel  ; the  other  can't ! 

New  Year's  Day,  1 88 1 . — How  little  I dreamed, 
when  penning  the  last  entry  in  my  Journal,  six 
months  ago,  what  terrible  suffering  I was  to  undergo 
before  I wrote  again ! God  in  mercy  hides  such 
scenes  from  our  eyes.  It  seems  truly  a miracle  that 
I live,  after  five  months  of  great  agony  night  and 
day  with  rheumatism,  and  unable  to  lift  my  hand 
to  my  head  ; then,  for  variation,  diphtheria,  and 
grievous  bed-sores.  The  oppression  and  prostration 
were  very  hard  to  bear ; and  the  intolerable  dis- 
comforts, for  want  of  the  alleviations  of  Civilization, 
were  no  less  so.  I was  struck  down,  just  as  I had 
planned  a hurried  visit  to  Australia,  by  the  short 
trip  of  the  Dayspring  (she  goes  twice  a year  now, 
which  is  a great  improvement),  to  have  a week  with  my 
precious  Children  ; and,  oh,  it  was  hard  to  be  resigned  ! 

I have  since  thought  that  it  was  not  an  unmitigated 
evil,  in  the  afflictions  of  poor  Job,  that  his  wife  used 
strong  language.  My  better-half  was  too  good  for 
that  ; and  I fear  I did  a little  “ bad  talk  ” myself, 
just  at  the  first.  It  seemed  as  if  we  w'ere  forsaken, 
both  of  God  and  Man,  when  the  Dayspring  spread 
her  sails,  and  disappeared  to  the  Colonies,  leaving 
us  in  such  awful  plight.  It  was,  indeed,  a very  thick 
and  black  cloud  into  which  I had  entered,  and  which 
I cannot  bear  to  look  back  upon  even  yet — why  then 
should  I inflict  it  upon  you  ? 


348  DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW 


Yet  there  were  rays  of  light  that  pierced  even  that 
darkness,  and  shone  all  the  brighter  as  the  Night 
fell  deeper ; and  the  Lord  had  lessons  for  me  to 
learn  there,  that  could  not  be  taught  in  the  sunshine. 
The  first  thing  that  comforted  me,  when  battling  with 
the  physical  pain,  and  the  heart-pain  of  prolonged 
absence  from  my  Children,  was  a text  I had  never 
noticed  before  : He  knoweth  what  is  in  the  Dark- 

ness ; for  the  Light  dwelleth  with  Him.”  What  a 
glow  of  trust  and  comfort  that  brought  me — He 
knoweth ! Again,  months  after,  when  I was  taking 
myself  to  task  for  my  over-keen  appreciation  of  the 
discomforts  of  the  sick-room,  instead  of  counting  my 
blessings,  which  were  many — the  kindest  Husband 
in  the  world,  and  three  darling  Children  round  me, 
etc. — Hutshi,  the  Girl  I had  had  most  trouble  with 
on  the  island,  came  into  my  room,  burst  into  tears, 
and  cried  passionately  : “ My  heart  is  breaking  for 
you,  Missi ! I can’t  think  of  you  lying  there,  month 
after  month,  with  not  a white  woman  to  look  after 
you.  We  can’t  turn  ourselves  into  white  people,  or 
cook  things  to  make  you  eat  ; but  keep  up,  Missi  ; 
you  don’t  know  how  much  we  love  you,  and  we 
are  all  praying  for  you.  I pray  for  you  often  in 

the  day ; and  I am  going  home  to  pray  for  you 
1) 

now. 

How  overwhelmingly  sweet  was  such  sympathy  ! 
I told  Hutshi,  that  it  was  worth  being  ill  to  get  it, 
and  that  I felt  strong  now  to  bear  anything.  Not  a 
bit  more  brave  was  I,  though,  when  a heavy  footfall 


CHANCES  TO  DIE 


349 


sent  a shiver  of  agony  through  me,  or  my  medicine 
was  presented  to  me  in  a dirty  glass.  That  glass 
was  a real  trial  ! Every  kind  of  medicine  would  be 
put  into  it,  without  being  rinsed.  You  will  think, 
surely  it  was  easy  enough  to  get  the  glass  washed. 
Nothing  easier,  if  you  look  at  it  apart  from  the 
surrounding  circumstances  ; or  had  there  been  any 
one  to  perceive  that  it  was  needed,  as  well  as  the 
hundred-and-one  little  attentions  that  make  acute 
illness  bearable.  John  had  always  a dozen  things 
to  do  at  once  ; and  I can’t  think  how  he  got  the 
time  for  his  patient  nursing  of  me,  as  he  never  missed 
a single  Service  all  the  time. 

It  is  bad  taste  to  praise  one’s  own,  and  I wouldn’t 
indulge  in  it  for  the  world ; only,  I must  say,  I 
have  had  some  rare  chances  to  die,  if  John  had  been 
less  lovingly  vigilant.  Three  times  over,  he,  along 
with  the  Natives  who  kindly  took  the  night  watching, 
knelt  round  my  bed,  thinking  the  end  had  come.  It 
was,  on  all  hands,  feared  I could  not  live  to  see  our 
dear  Bob,  who  was  sent  for  to  come  in  the  Dayspring. 
When  she  appeared,  on  a Sunday,  the  excitement  was 
intense,  till  we  were  sure  that  he  was  on  board.  John 
dared  not  leave  me,  even  to  go  to  the  gate,  though 
he  often  ran  to  the  window.  He  was  in  an  agony 
of  suspense,  for  he  knew  I had  not  strength  to  bear 
a disappointment.  At  last,  glimpses  of  the  visitors 
were  seen  through  the  cocoanut  grove  ; then  the 
Captain’s  figure  was  made  out ; then  a tall  slim 
young  fellow  by  his  side,  towering  inches  above 


35° 


DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW 


him.  My  heart  fell  at  the  description,  for  I knew 
my  Boy  was  not  quite  sixteen  ! 

When  their  footsteps  could  actually  be  heard  on 
the  coral  walk,  by  our  strained  ears,  John  left  me 
to  welcome  them  ; and  Litsi  Sisi  (=  the  Little),  a 
dear  faithful  Girl,  rushed  in  saying,  “ Rejoice,  Missi, 
and  live  ! It  is  your  own  Child,  your  first-born  Son  ! ” 
and  then  she  burst  into  a flood  of  happy  tears.  A 
few  seconds  more,  and  my  heart  had  the  sight  it  had 
been  longing  for  three  years  and  more.  One  of  our 
sable  Elders  crept  in  along  with  them,  and  stood 
sobbing  like  a child  over  the  meeting  of  the  Mother 
and  her  Son.  From  that  moment,  new  life  came 
to  me  every  hour;  and  when  Captain  Braithwaite, 
the  kindest-hearted  and  truest  Tar  that  ever  walked 
the  deck,  offered  to  leave  his  wife  with  us,  John  felt 
the  load  lifting  from  his  shoulders,  and  praised  the 
Lord.  Dear  Mrs.  Braithwaite  is  one  of  a thousand 
in  kind  care  and  gentleness  ; and,  oh,  what  a comfort 
to  have  a refined  woman’s  hand  about  everything  ! 

Captain  Braithwaite  has  told  us  since,  that  when 
he  saw  what  a skeleton  I was  reduced  to,  he  thought 
there  was  no  hope,  and  left  her  to  perform  the  last 
offices  for  me  ; instead  of  which,  she  welcomed  your 
new  Nephew,  the  bonnie  little  John  Whitecross,  and 
mothered  him  till  the  dear  Watts  came,  who  are 
always,  next  to  the  Lord,  our  mainstay  in  every 
trouble.  Mrs.  Watt  is  with  us  now,  and  Mr.  Watt 
is  coming  over  for  her  in  his  boat,  when  he  will  also 
baptise  our  Baby. 


THROUGH  MUCH  TRIBULATION  351 

We  hope  to  rejoin  our  two  other  Dear  Ones  in 
Australia,  some  time  this  year.  John  makes  such  a 
capital  Missionary  Beggar , that  the  Victorians  have 
commanded  his  services  in  that  capacity  for  a season  ; 
so  I emphatically  beg  you  to  understand  that  it  is 
not  his  Wife’s  health  that  is  taking  him  away  from 
the  Mission  Field  ! The  “ dear  wives  ” sometimes 
are  trotted  out  as  a very  touching  excuse,  but  I 
won’t  serve  the  purpose.  On  the  contrary,  I have 
kept  him  a year  longer,  for  we  were  to  have  gone 
last  year — had  1 been  able  to  be  moved  ! 

February  20 th,  1 88  r . — It  is  said  that  we  shall  enter 
the  Kingdom  through  much  tribulation  ; and  our  Lord 
has  seen  fit  to  make  us  sound  the  very  depths  in  His 
dealings  with  us.  Since  penning  the  last  lines,  death 
has  been  in  our  cup.  Our  darling  wee  Walter,  whom 
we  loved  as  our  own  lives,  and  who  brightened  these 
lives  as  with  an  Angel’s  ministry  for  two  years  and 
a half,  has  been  taken  away  in  the  midst  of  health 
and  glee.  Short  and  sharp  was  the  way  to  the 
Shepherd’s  Fold,  dear  Lamb  ; and  the  circumstances 
surrounding  his  death  make  the  tide  of  anguish  swell 
so  high  that  I have  sometimes  feared  it  would  sweep 
away  our  reason. 

The  whole  place  is  teeming  with  associations  of 
him  ; and  to-day,  when  I went  to  Church  again,  the 
first  time  for  seven  months,  the  little  empty  space, 
where  he  used  to  sit  with  his  Nurse,  close  to  his 
Father’s  platform  (“  Papa’s  wee  shadow  ” he  was 


352 


DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW 


called,  for  he  never  would  keep  away  from  him), 
was  too  much  for  me ! It  was  hard  to  keep  one’s 
heart  down,  and  see  the  tokens  of  sympathy  all 
around— my  poor  Girls  and  the  Women  with  bits 
of  black  sewed  into  their  hats  with  white  thread — 
and  when  a wee  fellow,  about  Walter’s  own  age,  came 
trotting  up  with  one  of  his  dear  familiar  dresses  on, 
and  a black  sash  his  Mother  had  tied  round  him, 
the  floodgates  burst  open  at  last,  and  with  a 
vengeance. 

I fear  most  of  all  for  dear  John.  He  has  scarcely 
eaten  or  slept,  since  the  dear  Lamb  was  taken,  as  he 
suspects  by  an  accident  about  the  medicine,  though 
God  only  fully  knows.  All  through  the  day,  he 
braces  himself,  and  neglects  no  duty  or  call  ; but  his 
interest  in  everything  else  seems  dead,  and  he  paces 
the  Study  floor  for  hours  every  night.  The  Lord 
sustain,  and  the  Lord  heal  ! 

August,  1 88 1 . — Left  dear  old  Aniwa  ; and  I hope 
to  God  that  I may  never  again  have  to  go  through 
such  a parting.  How  our  hearts  were  stirred  to  the 
depths,  in  leaving  the  beloved  and  familiar  associations 
of  so  many  years  ! I had  no  idea  how  much  I truly 
loved  our  dear  old  Darkies,  nor  how  intensely  they 
were  attached  to  us,  till  we  came  to  say  farewell. 
When  we  had  fairly  quitted  the  Mission  House  at 
last,  I felt  like  one  walking  in  a dream,  as  we  passed, 
one  after  another,  the  shrubs  and  flowers  we  had 
planted,  on  our  way  to  the  gate.  I thought  the 


CHILDLIKE  S YMPA  TLI Y 


353 


bitterness  was  past,  when  we  took  leave  of  the 
precious  Graves  ; but  the  scene  at  the  Boat  Harbour 
was  such  as  I cannot  bear  to  recall ! 

How  our  Aniwans  walked  right  into  my  inmost 
heart,  by  their  genuine  sympathy,  at  little  Walter’s 
death ! I have  strongly  recoiled  from  the  formal 
visits  of  condolence,  in  Civilization,  and  have  often 
wished  to  smite  dumb  a certain  type  of  Ministers, 
who  glory  in  turning  a Mother’s  heart  round  and 
round  in  the  Pulpit,  and  cutting  into  it,  apparently 
for  no  higher  purpose  than  intensifying  the  pathos 
of  a Sermon.  It  has  been  my  wicked  wish  that  they 
themselves  might  have,  at  least,  as  much  sorrow  as 
would  make  them  “ keep  their  tongues  between  their 
tceth,”  as  the  Scotch  say.  Some  of  us  have  been  “so 
built  by  God,”  that,  while  grateful  for  the  throb 
and  glance  of  silent  sympathy,  and  answering  to  it 
as  the  barometer  to  the  pressure  of  the  air,  we  quiver 
and  suffer  when  people  try  to  put  it  into  blundering 
words. 

With  our  Natives,  somehow,  things  were  not  so. 
Whether  it  is  that  they  are  so  much  like  little 
Children,  and  a Child’s  touch  upon  your  spirit  is 
never  hard  or  coarse,  I cannot  tell  ; but  sympathy 
from  them  never  pained,  but  always  soothed  me. 
They  would  come  before  us,  sit  down  on  the  floor 
and  cry,  and  bring  to  mind  all  the  little  sayings  and 
doings  of  the  Dear  One — just  like  a Bairn  chattering 
sweetly  about  an  absent  playmate.  The  very  night 
before  we  left  Aniwa,  the  loving  Hutshi  said  almost 

23 


354 


DAYS  OF  SUNLIGHT  AND  OF  SHADOW 


in  a frenzy  of  exultation  : “You  yourselves  may  go 
away,  Missi,  and  leave  us  ; but  you  can’t  rob  us  of 
the  Little  Ones  in  the  Graves.  These  two  are  ours  ; 
they  belong  to  the  people  of  Aniwa  ; and  they  will 
rise  with  the  Aniwans  in  the  great  Resurrection  Day, 
and  they  will  go  with  us  to  meet  with  Jesus  in  His 
Glory 

Ever  faithfully  and  affectionately  yours, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 


XVII 


A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  l88g 
(to  the  family  circle) 

Melbourne,  November,  1889. 

Dear  Sisters,  Brothers,  and  Friends, — Our 
six  months’  visit  to  the  New  Hebrides  has  been  most 
joyful  and  refreshing.  We  three,  John  and  Minn  and 
I,  set  out  from  Melbourne  on  March  26th,  and  found 
our  faithful  friend,  Captain  Braithwaitc,  waiting  us  at 
Sydney,  with  the  Dayspring  boat  manned  by  Natives 
to  carry  our  luggage  straight  to  the  old  familiar  Ship. 
It  looked  like  a good-sized  Canoe,  after  leaving  the 
S.S.  Adelaide  ! 

Two  days  thereafter  we  cleared  out  for  the  New 
Hebrides  ; but,  owing  to  head  winds,  we  took  exactly 
three  weeks  to  do  what  would  easily  have  been  done 
by  steam  in  six  or  seven  days.  We  were  dreadfully 
sea-sick,  and  the  Dayspring  felt  very  small  and  stuffy. 
The  bunks  are  so  narrow,  that  you  have  to  make  up 
your  mind  on  which  side  you  are  going  to  sleep, 
before  getting  in,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  turning  ! 

Yet  we  enjoyed  the  voyage  and  the  company — 
all  having  so  much  in  common.  There  were  eight  of 

355 


356  A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1SS9 


us,  including  the  young  Missionaries,  and  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Bannerman  and  Mrs.,  besides  Captain  and  Mrs. 
Braithwaite.  Mr.  Bannerman  is  Convener  of  the 
Heathen  Missions  Committee  in  Otago,  and  we 
rejoiced  in  his  and  dear  Mrs.  Bannerman’s  society 
immensely.  We  had  nice  readings  aloud  on  deck, 
from  “ Rudder  Grange  ” to  Shakespeare’s  plays  and 
Byron’s  Hebrew  Melodies  ; and  the  young  Mission- 
aries delighted  us  with  their  fine  voices  for  singing. 

When  we  had  been  a fortnight  at  sea,  we  passed 
close  by  Norfolk  Island,  the  seat  of  Bishop  Selwyn’s 
Mission.  The  little  island  adjacent,  Pitt’s  Island, 
was  the  loveliest  patch  I had  seen  on  the  Ocean  for 
many  a day — a magnificent  rock,  furrowed  and  dotted 
all  over  with  rich  crimson  tints,  showing  exquisitely 
in  the  slight  haze  of  the  morning  sun. 

There  was  an  exciting  time,  when  we  approached 
Aneityum.  We  were  all  on  deck,  by  six  in  the  morn- 
ing, to  see  the  Vessel  go  into  Anelquahat  Harbour, 
and  were  in  the  midst  of  our  joy  at  the  prospect  of 
landing,  when  all  at  once  a grate-grating  was  felt  and 
a quivering  of  the  Vessel  from  stem  to  stern.  The 
Dayspring  was  on  the  reef.  There  we  stuck  for 
nearly  four  hours,  with  consternation  on  every  face. 
I felt  most  of  all  for  the  Captain,  who  had  been  up 
at  duty  the  whole  night,  and  is  always  so  very 
cautious  ; but  the  narrow  entrances  between  those 
hidden  reefs  are  both  deceptive  and  dangerous.  He 
gave  his  orders  calmly  and  promptly.  The  Sailors 
worked  as  one  man,  got  out  the  anchors  and  tow 


SAVED  FROM  SHIPWRECK 


357 


ropes  in  their  boats,  and  tried  to  draw  the  Vessel  off. 
Most  fortunately,  the  tide  was  rising,  and  this  gave 
them  hope.  The  Missionaries,  having  given  all  the 
help  they  possibly  could,  assembled  in  the  Cabin, 
and  kept  praying,  in  turn,  to  the  Lord  for  our  relief. 
Blessed  was  the  sound  to  us  all,  when  the  Captain 
shouted,  in  a voice  falsetto  with  excitement,  “ Halle- 
lujah ! She’s  off!  She’s  off!”  He  admitted,  how- 
ever, that  John  was  the  very  first  to  feel  the  delightful 
“lifting,”  and  to  praise  the  Lord  for  answer  to  His 
servants’  prayers.  It  was  but  another  illustration 
of  how,  in  all  God’s  dealings  with  His  children, 
“ prayers  and  pains  ” go  hand  in  hand  to  bring  us 
the  blessing. 

It  was  now  about  nine  o’clock,  and  we  began  to 
realize  that  we  had  been  hungry.  What  a joy  at  the 
Breakfast  Table  ! The  Captain  asked  such  a fervent 
blessing,  with  both  hands  raised,  and  spoke  so  touch- 
ingly  about  the  loving  Providence  watching  over  us, 
that  all  were  visibly  moved.  We  had,  of  course,  put 
out  again  to  Sea  ; but  we  got  safely  into  the  Harbour 
in  the  afternoon.  The  place  looked  so  lonely  without 
a Missionary.  But  we  got  a most  cordial  invitation 
to  dinner  with  the  Martins  of  the  Saw  Mills,  to  which 
we  did  ample  justice,  enjoying  it  as  only  sea-sick 
voyagers  can,  when  they  get  ashore. 

To  me  it  was  most  refreshing  to  see  my  own  first 
impressions  of  the  Tropics  reproduced  in  the  Banner- 
mans  and  the  young  Missionaries.  It  was,  also,  all 
new  to  Minn — she  was  such  a young  child  when  she 


358  A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1889 


left  Aniwa.  I had  been  wondering,  further,  if  my 
own  vivid  imagination  would  be  borne  out  by  this 

visit  in  maturer  years.  But,  when  we  entered  the 

bay,  and  set  eyes  again  on  those  lovely  shores,  that 
seemed  to  float  on  a sea  of  melted  jewels,  with  the 
grand  old  mountains  towering  up  behind,  I felt  that 
I had  never  half  realized  how  gorgeous  was  the 
beauty  of  these  Islands.  The  changeful  tints  on  the 
water,  from  the  palest  transparent  green  to  the  deepest 
purple,  baffle  description. 

The  Captain  had  to  water  the  Dayspring  there  ; 
and,  as  I had  brought  my  painting  materials,  I 

picniced  on  the  brow  of  a hill,  and  painted  the 

Harbour,  with  Dr.  Gcddie’s  Church  in  the  fore- 
ground. The  result  was,  of  course,  disappointing. 
One  would  want  a month  of  close  study,  to  secure 
even  a faint  resemblance  of  the  lovely  scene,  instead 
of  only  three  short  sittings.  But  Mrs.  Bannerman 
was  very  pleased  to  have  it  as  a memento  of  their 
visit  ; and  she  writes  me  since  that  Mr.  Bannerman 
has  sent  it  to  the  Otago  Exhibition.  It  was  great 
fun,  as  they  had  never  the  option  of  refusing  it  as  a 
work  of  Art,  for  it  is  placed  in  the  New  Hebridean 
Court — among  the  other  Curios  ! 

Our  next  stopping-place  was  Fotuna.  But,  on 
approaching  the  Mission  Station,  and  eagerly  looking 
through  the  glass,  we  found,  to  our  dismay,  that  Dr. 
Gunn’s  house  was  nowhere  to  be  seen.  It  had  been 
levelled  to  the  ground  by  the  hurricane,  all  except 
a room  or  two  at  the  back,  and  there  they  were 


A RUSH  OF  MEMORIES 


359 


living.  It  seems  hard  that  such  able  and  devoted 
Missionaries  should  suffer  so  ! They  were  most  kind 
and  hospitable,  and  appeared  to  take  joyfully  the 
spoiling  of  their  goods,  for  Christ’s  sake. 

Our  next  halt  was  at  dear  old  Aniwa,  and  we  had 
a heart-stirring  day  there,  after  eight  years  of  absence. 
We  were  welcomed  by  a crowd  of  our  old  Parishioners, 
many  of  whom  had  grown  out  of  my  recollection 
(John  had  seen  them  more  recently),  but  I did  not 
dare  to  show  that  to  them  ! One  of  my  old  Girls 
understood  the  dilemma,  and  kept  close  beside  me, 
whispering  the  names  without  almost  moving  her 
lips.  They  had  all  the  Mission  Premises  in  apple- 
pie  order — the  loveliest  and  dearest  place  I have  seen, 
since  the  day  we  left  it. 

The  Natives  were  charmed  to  see  Minn  again,  and 
asked  eagerly  for  our  Boys.  We  had  taken  “ the 
sinews  of  war”  from  the  Dayspring  for  a picnic  in  the 
dear  old  familiar  Dining-Room,  as  our  goods  were 
only  landed,  not  unpacked,  till  our  return  from  the 
Mission  Synod.  It  was  nice  to  have  dear  friends  with 
us  ashore,  and  to  hear  the  Aniwans  eagerly  inquiring 
for  our  Children  ; but,  just  at  first,  if  it  must  be  con- 
fessed, I would  have  given  the  world  to  be  left  alone. 
The  flood  of  memories  was  too  overpowering.  Every 
room,  every  spot  of  ground  teemed  with  recollections, 
and  my  heart  was  like  to  burst,  sometimes  in  gladness, 
sometimes  in  sorrow,  as  the  past  rose  to  view.  We 
had  a little  Service  in  the  Church,  after  lunch  ; and 
then,  all  our  stores  being  landed  safely,  we,  in  the 


360  A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1SS9 

prospect  of  an  early  return  after  the  Synod,  bade 
them  all  a cheerful  Goodbye. 

We  called  next  at  Kwamera,  after  three  days  of 
most  disagreeable  head  winds.  This  visit  meant 
a great  deal,  especially  to  John  and  to  me,  for  the 
Watts  have  always  been  true  Brother  and  Sister 
to  us.  We  were  greatly  shocked  with  Mrs.  Watt’s 
haggard  appearance.  She  had  been  dangerously  ill, 
and  I never  saw  such  a change  in  any  one — may  God 
soon  restore  her!  She  did  not  know  Minn,  but 
thought  she  was  a very  young  Missionary’s  wife,  and 
was  wasting  much  sympathy  upon  her  for  leaving  her 
Mother  so  soon ! Had  to  rush  off,  after  a hasty 
repast  ; but  with  the  hope  of  soon  meeting  again 
at  the  Synod. 

We  had  a pleasant  trip,  next  day,  to  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Gray  on  the  other  side  of  Tanna,  who  hospitably 
entertained  us  all  at  lunch,  which  was  as  long  as  we 
were  allowed  on  shore.  And  there  I met  with  my 
dear  old  faithful  Litsi  Sor/  (=  the  Great),  who  cried  so 
when  she  saw  me,  and  would  like  us  to  come  back  to 
them.  But  she  and  her  husband  are  usefully  and 
happily  employed,  as  Teachers  and  Helps  to  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Gray. 

We  next  spread  sail  for  Erromanga,  which  we  could 
have  reached  in  a couple  of  hours  by  steam,  but  it 
was  two  days  later  when  we  cast  anchor  in  Dillon’s 
Bay.  It  was  beautiful  as  ever,  and  I got  a nice  paint- 
ing of  it  and  the  Mission  Station  from  the  deck  ; but 
we  missed  our  usual  warm  reception  from  the 


MISSION  STATION,  DILLONS  BAY,  ERROMANGA. 
(. Photographed  by  Dr.  Gunn.) 


THE  BEAUTIFUL  FILA 


363 


Robertsons,  who  are  on  a short  visit  to  Australia 
for  much  needed  rest  and  change.  We  made  free 
use  of  their  good  servants,  though,  and  got  some 
Laundry  work  done.  The  Sabbath  Services  were 
very  interesting.  Morning  Worship  for  the  Natives 
in  the  Martyrs'  Memorial  Church — Mr.  Bannerman 
giving  a good  address,  which  Yomat  translated  into 
Erromangan. 

Our  next  stopping-place  was  Erakor,  Efate,  and 
we  had  a charming  day  with  our  dear  friends  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Mackenzie.  We  all  look  on  the  Mackenzies 
as  Ideal  Missionaries  ; and  the  Native  Teachers  of 
their  training  arc  sure  to  prove  satisfactory,  wherever 
they  go.  They  too  have  had  to  part  from  their 
Children  for  the  sake  of  the  work,  and  have  only 
little  Alice  left.  They  took  us  in  their  boat  up  the 
Lagoon — the  loveliest  sail  one  could  imagine  ; we 
were  so  closely  walled  in  on  either  side  by  the  richly 
clad  hills  and  tropical  foliage.  We  crossed  the 
Isthmus,  where  the  Dayspring  boats  were  waiting 
us  on  the  other  side  ; and  had  another  lovely  sail 
through  Fila  Harbour,  where  the  Day  spring  went 
round  to  anchor,  after  we  left  her  in  the  morning. 

You  will  think  we  do  nothing  but  enthuse  over  the 
Fairy-like  scenery  here.  Well,  we  can’t  help  our- 
selves ; and  I have  not  properly  begun  yet ; for,  on 
entering  Fila  Harbour — La  Belle  Fila,  the  French 
call  it — I felt  that  if  there  were  any  place  more 
beautiful  on  God’s  Earth,  I would  require  enlarged 
capacity  to  do  it  justice!  It  was  a day-dream  of 


364  A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1SS9 


delight,  with  its  burst  of  colour,  tropical  foliage,  and 
greenery  down  to  the  water’s  edge,  reflected  back 
in  wondrous  beauty  ; bluest  mountains  in  the  back- 
ground ; sunlights,  hazes,  and  gorgeous  skies  ; a Sea 
of  Glass,  clear  to  the  very  depths,  and  revealing  the 
grandest  Aquarium  in  the  world.  Three  round  rocks 
rise  abruptly  from  the  water,  with  tufts  of  greenery 
on  their  top,  standing  out  for  all  the  world  like  huge 
flower-pots ! The  people  who  invented  the  proverb, 
See  Naples  and  die , had  never  seen  the  beautiful 
Fila  in  these  Pacific  Seas. 

We  had  a pleasant  few  days  next  at  Havannah 
Harbour,  which  one  could  almost  imagine  to  be  a 
Highland  Loch  ; and  there  we  were  the  guests  ot 
the  Rev.  D.  and  Mrs.  McDonald.  It  charmed  us  to 
see,  not  only  the  results  of  their  long  and  devoted 
labours,  but  also  their  darling  Children.  They  are 
the  most  lovable,  bright  little  pets  you  ever  saw,  and 
the  two  eldest  Boys  in  Melbourne  are  great  chums 
of  our  Jay’s.  We  heard  there  the  astonishing  news 
of  the  wreck  of  the  S.S.  Fijian , off  the  coast  of  Tanna, 
last  Monday,  the  very  time  we  left  Erromanga.  They 
must  surely  all  have  been  asleep,  else  they  never 
could  have  succeeded  in  performing  that  feat  in  the 
beautiful  moonlight. 

Our  next  resting-place  was  Nguna.  It  was  a real 
joy  to  meet  once  more  my  dear  friend  Mrs.  Milne 
and  her  beloved  ones  ; and,  as  we  stayed  over  the 
Sunday,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  worshipping  there 
in  the  “ Cathedral,”  which  we  call  St.  Peter's,  after 


MONTHLY  THOUGHTS 


365 


the  Reverend  Peter  Milne,  the  best  architect  among 
our  Missionaries.  It  is  by  far  the  finest  Church  in 
the  New  Hebrides  ; and,  what  was  best  of  all,  we 
saw  many  hundreds  of  well-dressed  people  assembled 
therein  to  worship  the  true  and  living  God — Mr. 
Bannerman  and  John  giving  addresses,  and  Mr.  Milne 
translating.  Mrs.  Milne  conducts  Sunday  School  in 
the  afternoon,  while  Mr.  Milne  is  holding  Worship 
on  an  adjacent  island  ; and  she  gave  them  an  address 
on  part  of  the  Pilgrim's  Progress,  which  she  has  been 
translating  into  Ngunese,  and  to  which  they  listened 
with  rapt  attention.  The  work  on  Nguna  has  taken 
gigantic  strides,  and  very  much  of  the  success  is  due 
under  God  to  the  spirit  of  Mrs.  Milne. 

What  sweet  intercourse  I had  with  her,  when  living 
on  Aniwa ! We  used  to  write  a “ Monthly  Thought” 
to  each  other,  on  the  first  Monday  of  every  month. 
It  might  be  a Text,  and  our  thoughts  about  it  ; or  it 
mightn’t  be  a Text  at  all,  just  any  subject,  and  the 
Lord’s  dealings  with  us.  It  did  seem  as  if  He  guided 
our  pens  what  to  say  to  each  other,  the  “ thoughts  ” so 
frequently  bore  upon  our  own  peculiar  circumstances, 
and  how  often  we  thought  alike  ! Those  “ Monthlies,” 
though  we  didn’t  of  course  receive  them  every  month, 
came  to  me  with  far  more  freshness  and  power,  and 
did  me  more  good  than  any  sermon  ; and  the  opening 
of  the  budget  was  more  delightful  than  even  cutting 
up  the  leaves  of  a new  publication. 

One  of  the  new  Missionaries  mended  Mrs.  Milne’s 
harmonium,  and  we  had  a little  music.  The  house 


366  A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1889 


was  immediately  surrounded  by  eager  listeners  ; so 
Mrs.  Milne  had  it  taken  into  the  Church  at  the  urgent 
request  of  the  Natives,  and  we  had  a rare  Concert ! 
Not  altogether  a Sacred  one,  I fear  ; rather  a medley 
of  all  sorts,  every  one  contributing  what  he  or  she 
could.  During  intervals  in  the  singing,  I rattled  off 
things  from  Stephen  Heller’s  Tarentelle ! It  was  so 
jolly  to  give  such  pleasure  to  an  enthusiastically  appre- 
ciative and  uncritical  audience.  Natives  generally 
are  so  fond  of  music  ; you  have  only  to  play  a few 
bars  to  gather  a crowd.  We  got  lovely  views  at 
Nguna,  from  which  fourteen  islands  can  be  seen  from 
a hill  behind  the  Mission  House.  I got  a good 
sketch  of  these,  but  had  no  time  to  paint. 

At  Tongoa,  our  next  place  of  call,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Michelsen  kindly  entertained  us  all  on  shore  for  the 
night,  which  we  enjoyed  exceedingly.  Next  day  we 
witnessed  a grand  sight,  when  Mr.  Michelsen  assembled 
his  people  from  all  parts  of  the  island,  and  we  had 
Open-Air  Worship  on  the  grassy  brow  of  a hill, 
outside  the  Mission  Premises,  there  being  assembled 
about  six  hundred  Natives  in  every  colour  and 
description  of  costume.  All  the  Missionaries  addressed 
them,  Mr.  Michelsen  translating  ; and  then,  what  a 
volume  of  praise  ascended  to  Heaven  from  that  sable 
throng  ! They  were  too  many  to  shake  hands  with  ; 
so  Mr.  Michelsen  announced  at  the  close  of  the 
Service,  that  the  Chiefs  and  Church  Members  alone 
were  to  come  forward.  Three  of  the  Chiefs  happened 
to  be  Church  Members;  but  instead  of  coming  first 


THE  NORTHERN  STATIONS 


367 


with  the  other  Chiefs,  they  waited  and  came  as 
Members  of  the  Church,  which  we  thought  beautiful. 

Next  day,  we  arrived  at  Api  ; and  the  few  hours  we 
had  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fraser  did  us  real  good — they 
are  so  devoted  and  so  bright.  It  was  now  all  calm 
and  pleasant  sailing,  through  the  Northern  Islands. 
We  passed  Lopevi,  a high  mountain  peak  and  an 
extinct  volcano,  4,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Sea. 
The  following  day,  being  May  24th,  was  remarkable 
for  birthday  celebrities — being  the  Queen’s,  and 
John’s,  and  the  Cook’s  ! — and  we  had  Mrs.  Banner- 
man’s  shortbread  in  honour  of  the  occasion. 

Ambrim  was  reached  the  morning  after,  and  most 
of  the  Mission  Party  went  ashore  to  encourage  the 
Native  Teachers  ; then  we  steered  our  course  for 
Malekula.  The  wind  died  off,  and  we  feared  deadly 
delay  ; but  up  it  came  again,  and  off  we  flew,  sighting 
three  vessels  in  our  way,  and  were  anchored  in  Sasoon 
Bay  by  four  o’clock.  A Roman  Catholic  Priest  has 
the  site,  the  ground,  at  the  anchorage,  and  Mr. 
Leggatt’s  Station  is  much  farther  on.  So  we  had 
a bit  to  go  by  boat  ; but  we  got  a right  hearty 
and  cheery  welcome,  when  we  arrived  at  their  pretty 
and  hospitable  Home.  We  had  only  ten  minutes  to 
stay  ; but  we  three  Patons  were  not  allowed  to  return 
to  the  Vessel. 

Next  day  being  Sunday,  Mr.  Leggatt,  John,  and 
I had  a charming  walk  to  the  anchorage,  partly  by 
shore,  and  partly  through  the  Bush,  to  have  Service 
at  a Village  on  the  way.  There  were  twenty-one 


368  A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1889 


naked  Darkies  at  the  Worship,  Malekula  having  been 
only  recently  occupied  ; and  finely  carved  wooden 
Idols  and  Drums  were  all  around  ! We  looked  in  at 
the  Priest’s  gate,  intending  to  pay  our  respects  to 
Monsieur  le  Pere  ; but  he  had  gone  off  to  a distant 
Village,  and  we  had  only  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  his 
little  footprints  on  the  sand.  On  getting  opposite  the 
Day  spring , Mr.  Leggatt  signalled,  and  a boat  was  sent 
for  us  to  get  on  board  for  English  Service,  after  which 
we  were  rowed  to  land  again,  and  walked  back  to  the 
Mission  House. 

After  dinner,  there  was  a Native  Service  in  Church, 
and  Tookaro,  a devoted  Native  Teacher,  was  asked 
by  Mr.  Leggatt  to  add  a few  words  ; whereupon  he 
gave  us  a rather  mixed  address  in  Sandal-Wood 
English,  and  on  the  story  of  Moses.  We  were  all 
feeling  so  much  for  the  Rev.  A.  H.  McDonald,  who 
was  staying  with  the  Mortons,  as  we  had  brought 
the  news  of  his  good  Father’s  death.  Mr.  Leggatt 
managed  to  get  the  Mail  sent  over  early  next  morning, 
along  with  letters  of  sympathy  to  prepare  him  for  the 
tidings.  Dr.  McDonald  was  a lifelong  and  highly 
valued  kind  friend  to  us  and  the  New  Hebrides 
Mission,  and  was  for  many  years  Convener  of  the 
Committee  at  Melbourne. 

Two  days  thereafter,  we  anchored  at  Pangkumu, 
where  we  had  a very  warm  reception  from  the 
Missionaries,  and  from  the  weather!  The  Mission 
House  is  charming,  but  ought  decidedly  to  be  higher 
up  to  get  into  the  sweep  of  the  air  currents.  We 


KNOCKING  OUT  FRONT  TEETH 


369 


enjoyed  our  stay  there  very  much,  but  for  the  awful 
heat.  Being  detained  several  days,  for  lack  of  wind, 
we  saw  a lot  of  the  Natives. 

One  horrible  practice  on  Malekula  is  knocking  out 
the  two  upper  front  teeth  of  every  Girl,  as  she  reaches 
womanhood.  The  fine  white  teeth  of  the  Natives 
being  one  great  point  of  beauty,  to  think  of  the 
Malekulan  women  being  so  disfigured  suggests  to 
some  that  they  had  proved  vicious  to  their  husbands 
in  former  generations  and  so  had  come  to  be  disabled. 
One  or  two  Girls  escaped  to  Mr.  Morton’s,  as  they 
were  about  to  be  operated  upon  ; but  the  old  women, 
who  themselves  had  suffered  in  like  manner,  were  the 
first  to  seize  and  carry  them  back  to  torture. 

The  Malekulans  were  greatly  taken  with  Minn’s 
abundant  hair,  but  argued  that  the  thick  coils  could 
not  all  be  her  own  ! Mrs.  Morton  translated  what 
they  were  saying,  and  begged  her  to  gratify  them  by 
taking  it  down.  She  unwound  it  at  the  window,  all 
the  black  faces  gazing  on  intently,  and  when  it 
showered  like  a cloud  around  her,  they  gesticulated 
and  shouted  with  delight,  declaring  it  was  as  fine  as  a 
pig's  tail ! Mr.  Morton  assured  Minn  that  that  was 
their  highest  possible  form  of  praise — they  think  so 
much  of  those  interesting  brutes  ! 

We  got  wind  enough  at  last  to  take  us  out  of 
Pangkumu  ; but  we  soon  represented  vividly  “ a 
painted  Ship  upon  a painted  Ocean.”  Ample  time 
was  at  our  disposal  to  admire  the  scenery ; and  we 
sat  watching  the  stars  at  night,  especially  Saturn, 

24 


37° 


A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1889 


with  his  brilliant  diamond  flashes,  the  only  Planet 
that  twinkles.  Venus  was  on  show  at  4 a.m.,  but 
I for  one  was  too  lazy  to  get  up  and  admire. 

Malo  was  reached  on  the  following  Sunday,  and 
the  younger  Missionaries  went  ashore  ; but  it  was  not 
fit  for  ladies  at  low  tide.  Captain  and  Mrs.  Braith- 
waite  and  we  three  went  after  tea  ; but  there  was  such 
a mighty  roll  on  the  reef,  we  had  to  turn  back  to 
the  Day  spring — waving  our  handkerchiefs  to  Mr. 
Landells,  as  he  rushed  to  the  Landing  to  meet  us. 
He  looked  rather  “ had,”  as  they  say  in  Australia, 
and  we  felt  no  less  so  ; but  the  Evening  Service  with 
the  Sailors  on  board  was  very  pleasant,  and  the 
Landells’  kind  and  hearty  welcome  was  only  delayed 
till  next  morning,  as  the  Captain  landed  us  before 
seven  o’clock,  and  Mrs.  Braithwaite  followed  in  time 
for  breakfast. 

The  view  from  the  Landells’  verandah  is  most 
exquisite ; the  spreading  Bay,  the  great  Santo  Moun- 
tains beyond,  draped  in  blue  purple  hazes  and  sunlights, 
and  the  little  Islets  between.  We  had  a walk  with 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Landells,  through  the  Malo  Bush,  and 
passed  a Village,  where  they  were  wailing  for  a man 
who  had  died  that  morning.  There  were  Heathen 
ceremonies  connected  with  it  ; but  the  earnest  labours 
of  these  devoted  Missionaries  will  bear  fruit,  in  due 
time,  by  the  blessing  of  the  Lord. 

In  the  afternoon,  Mr.  Annand’s  boat  was  descried, 
and  soon  there  was  another  meeting  of  friends,  it 
was  delightful  to  meet  with  our  old  fellow-workers  ; 


A BEAUTIFUL  LILY 


37 


and  Mr.  Annand  informed  us  he  had  strict  orders 
from  Mrs.  Annand  to  bring  us  right  back  with  him 
that  very  afternoon.  It  was  too  tempting  to  be  re- 
fused ; and  Mr.  Annand  called  with  us  on  board  to 
get  a few  things  together  ; and  then  we  had  a lovely 
sail  of  two  hours— enjoying  a gorgeous  sunset  by 
the  way,  the  side  of  the  high  Santo  Mountain  being 
enveloped  in  the  radiance  as  if  itself  a part  of  the 
glory.  We  had  a delicious  welcome  from  dear  Mrs. 
Annand  on  her  mountain  Home  on  Tangoa — a small 
island,  off  the  mainland  of  Santo. 

I shall  never  forget  my  earliest  sight  of  Mrs.  Annand, 
when  she  entered  the  Mission,  and  first  came  ashore 
at  Aniwa.  She  suggested  to  me  a beautiful  lily, 
with  her  tall  slim  figure,  fair  hair  and  complexion, 
and  finely  cut  features  ; dressed  in  a loose  double- 
breasted  Rob-Roy  jacket,  and  black  hat  with  feathers. 
As  she  bowed  and  smiled,  while  still  at  a little  distance, 
I just  wondered  if  a fairer  Girl  had  ever  entered  a 
Mission  ; and  I was  greatly  pleased,  afterwards,  to 
learn  that  her  Mother  was  dead,  and  had  been  spared 
the  pain  of  parting.  I watched  her  husband  very 
closely,  to  see  if  he  were  worthy  of  such  a wife,  and 
was  speedily  more  than  satisfied — which  is  the  highest 
praise  I can  give  him  ! 

This  is  a new  field  to  them.  They  laboured  for 
years  on  Dr.  Gcddie’s  olo  Station  on  Ancityum.  But 
when  it  was  thought,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of 
Missionaries,  that  one  ought  to  serve  that  island, 
they  nobly  volunteered  to  move,  and  tackle  a new 


372 


A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1SS9 


language  and  another  people — building  on  no  man’s 
foundation.  We  had  two  or  three  delightful  days 
with  them  ; and,  such  are  their  illusions,  Minn  and 
I were  duly  admired,  by  some  of  the  Native  women, 
as  John’s  two  wives  ! 

Having  reached  the  most  Northerly  Island  and 
the  last  of  the  Mission  Stations,  we  began  to  wind 
Southwards  again,  picking  up  the  Missionaries  by  the 
way  for  their  Annual  Synod,  till  we  were  packed  like 
sardines  in  the  little  Day  spring.  It  was  a good  thing 
that  all  the  Missionaries  didn’t  come  ! Several,  as 
it  was,  had  to  sleep  on  the  floor  ; and  there  were 
always  two  relays  at  meals. 

We  had  a fine  view  of  Monument  Island,  passing 
close  to  it  in  the  moonlight — a great  Rock,  full  of 
arches  and  dark  caves,  rising  sheer  out  of  the  water 
to  a height  of  five  hundred  feet,  exactly  like  a sugar- 
loaf.  We  passed  our  Silver  Wedding  Day,  on  that 
return  voyage,  very  quietly,  as  nobody  knew  but 
we  three  and  dear  Mrs.  Bannerman.  It  seemed  be- 
fitting that  we  should  spend  that  day  on  the  dear 
old  Day  spring , and  in  the  New  Hebrides.  There 
was  food  for  many  varied  emotions  in  looking  back 
over  all  the  way  God  had  led  us  during  the  five-and- 
twenty  years  of  our  married  life.  The  next  day,  we 
got  a huge  Mail  on  calling  at  Havannah  Harbour  ; 
and  there  was  eager  and  merry  excitement,  as  we 
all  rushed  down  to  the  Cabin  after  the  Captain,  who 
shouted  out  the  names  and  handed  the  letters,  being 
playfully  answered  by  each  in  University  style,  Adsum. 


MISSION  SYNOD  ON  TANNA 


373 


On  June  26th,  there  was  a fine  fair  wind  for 
Kwamera,  and  we  joyfully  did  our  packing,  as  the 
Captain  gave  us  hope  of  taking  our  tea  on  shore. 
But  “ there’s  mony  a slip  ’tween  the  cup  and  the 
lip  ” ; and  we  had  barely  finished,  when  black  clouds 
came,  then  squalls  and  torrents  of  rain  ; and  we  were 
battened  down  below,  and  parboiled  for  the  next 
two  days.  It  was  charming  to  get  to  Kwamera  at 
last,  in  the  early  morning,  with  ravenous  appetites 
for  breakfast  ; and  what  a glorious  time  we  had,  all 
together,  at  the  Mission  Synod. 

All  Mrs.  Watt’s  arrangements  were  simply  perfect, 
could  not  have  been  more  so  at  a first-class  Hotel, 
and  everything  planned  so  as  to  avoid  the  least 
confusion — even  cards,  with  our  names,  at  our  table 
seats,  and  on  the  bed  each  was  to  occupy.  The 
servants  and  helpers  had  each  certain  duties  to  perform, 
for  which  they  were  responsible  : one  to  attend  to 
the  Punkahs  at  meals,  etc. — a new  luxury,  and  a very 
desirable  one,  since  we  were  in  the  Mission  field  ; one 
to  fill  and  empty  the  baths,  as  they  were  used,  etc. 
1 he  appointments  at  table  were  precisely  what  you 
would  use  in  such  Homes  as  ours  in  Civilization  ; but 
the  Bedrooms  showed,  as  well  as  taxed,  the  ingenuity 
of  our  Host  and  Hostess.  Bright  chintz  and  muslin 
gave  a very  inviting  appearance  to  what  had  been 
General  Store,  Mangle  Room,  or  Printing  Office,  and 
hid  some  rather  unpromising  looking  materials  in 
the  way  of  old  boxes,  for  beds,  tables,  etc.  Twenty- 
three  guests  were  sumptuously  entertained  on  the 


374 


A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1SS9 


fat  of  the  land  for  fully  a fortnight,  to  the  praise  of 
the  management  and  energy  of  dear  Mrs.  Watt, 

Much  interesting  work  was  accomplished  during 
the  sittings  of  this  Synod.  It  was  the  Jubilee  of  the 
New  Hebrides  Mission,  if  we  date  it,  as  we  well  may, 
from  the  Martyrdom  of  Williams  and  Harris  on 
Erromanga.  There  were  twelve  Missionaries,  count- 
ing Mr.  Bannerman,  and  we  nicknamed  them  The 
Twelve  Apostles.  They  arranged  for  a new  distinctive 
flag  for  the  Mission,  for  which  Mr.  Watt  asked  me 
to  paint  the  design.  It  is  Presbyterian  Blue,  with  a 
white  St.  Andrew’s  Cross  ( The  Whitecross  Banner  /), 
and  the  letters  N.H.P.M.  in  red,  for  New  Hebrides 
Presbyterian  Mission.  We  made  a flag  for  Mr.  Watt, 
after  the  new  pattern,  which  was  hoisted  on  the  Flag 
Staff  amidst  the  cheers  of  the  Missionary  party.  Out 
of  Synod  hours,  Croquet  was  the  order  of  the  day — 
Tennis  being  too  heating  for  the  climate  ; then  there 
was  walking,  and  music,  and  getting  photographed, 
of  course.  There  was  also  a Magic  Lantern  Exhibition 
and  a Concert  (I  think  it  was  Sacred)  for  the  Natives. 
And  I should  not  have  failed  to  mention  that,  the 
first  Sunday  after  our  arrival,  at  the  English  Service 
we  all  partook  together  the  Holy  Supper  of  our  Lord. 

The  settlement  of  the  two  new  Missionaries  was 
very  interesting.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gillan  go  to  Port 
Stanley  on  Malekula,  and  Mr.  Smaill  to  Api.  They 
will  make  splendid  Missionaries,  and  John  devoutly 
wishes  we  had  twenty  more  like  them.  The  sittings 
were  formally  closed,  after  ten  days’  work,  by  a very 


FROM  KIVAMERA  TO  ANIWA 


375 


fine  address  from  the  Moderator,  Mr.  Gray.  Then  we 
had  a few  bright  and  pleasant  days  of  leisure,  till 
the  Dayspring  came  for  us.  Some  of  the  Missionaries 
got  up  for  the  general  amusement  a neat  little  daily 
Newspaper  on  the  cyclostyle,  called  The  Kwamera 
Morning  Herald , and  a copy  was  laid  on  each  plate 
at  breakfast.  It  caused  great  merriment,  most  of 
the  jokes,  latest  news,  etc.,  being  good-humouredly 
personal. 

We  left  Kwamera,  with  the  bright  hope  of  a speedy 
reunion  with  the  Watts,  who  are  to  go  with  us  to 
Australia  on  their  way  to  the  Old  Country.  But  it 
was  hard  to  see  the  others  setting  out  for  their  isolated 
homes.  I do  not  know  how  it  is,  and  can’t  account 
for  such  feelings,  as  my  own  Mission  life  was  decidedly 
happy  ; but  it  is  always  like  to  break  my  heart,  to 
see  any  other  Missionary  and  his  wife  left  on  a 
lonely  island. 

We  had  a swift  run  across  to  Aniwa,  only  a few 
hours  ; and  we  three  had  barely  time  to  land  before 
dark  on  the  Saturday  evening.  How  thankful  we 
were,  not  to  have  another  night  of  sea-sickness  and 
close  packing ! The  Missionaries  on  board  must 
have  been  right  glad  of  our  room  instead  ol  our 
company  ; and  our  large  airy  house  looked  a Palace 
after  the  wee  overcrowded  Day  spring.  The  Natives 
had  all  our  belongings  out  of  the  boat  in  a twinkling; 
and  Litsi  Sisi  (Litsi  the  Little ) had  the  lamps  lit  and 
the  kettle  boiling  for  tea  when  we  arrived. 

The  two  months  we  spent  on  dear  old  Aniwa  were 


376 


A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1889 


hallowed  and  busy  ones.  The  delicious  calmness 
and  quietude  of  that  first  Sunday,  I felt  I could  not 
sufficiently  drink  in.  I had  time  to  live  the  old 
associations  ; could  go  round  all  the  familiar  spots  ; 
stand  in  the  empty  rooms ; remember  what  had 
happened  in  each  ; and  let  my  heart  surge  up,  if  it 
wanted  to!  Never  before  had  I felt,  in  such  a degree, 
the  charm  of  being  alone — that  is,  so  far  as  the  outside 
world  is  concerned,  for  John  and  Minn  are  part  of 
my  very  Self,  and  if  only  our  five  Laddies  had  been 
there  too,  the  bliss  would  have  been  complete. 

On  the  Monday  morning,  we  discovered  to  our 
dismay  that  the  box  of  kerosene  had  been  left  on 
board  and  we  had  no  more  oil  than  was  in  the  lamps  ! 
Our  Aniwans  own  a boat  of  their  own,  of  which  they 
are  very  proud,  and  eagerly  offered  to  go  across  to 
Tanna,  and  get  a supply  from  the  Rev.  Mr.  Gray,  who 
was  our  nearest  neighbour  ; and  kind,  kind  friends 
Mrs.  Gray  and  he  proved,  always  sending  us  needful 
things  ; for  the  boat  went  back  two  or  three  times, 
and  their  boat  came  to  Aniwa.  There  was  nothing 
we  enjoyed  more  than  the  bottles  of  milk  which  Mrs. 
Gray  so  kindly  remembered. 

I had  no  Household  cares,  having  elected  four 
Natives  to  attend  to  our  daily  wants.  Eight  of  them, 
however,  insisted  on  coming;  and  we  had  not  the 
heart  to  put  them  away,  poor  things,  so  loving  were 
they.  But  if  I had  no  Household  duties,  the  Natives 
took  good  care  to  provide  plenty  of  other  work  ; for 
they  were  eager  to  be  taught  and  to  take  all  the  good 


IMPORTUNITY  OF  NALOUSI 


377 


out  of  us  they  possibly  could.  The  tables  were 
turned  ! Instead  of  us  urging  them  on,  as  we  used  to, 
it  was  now  the  other  way,  with  a vengeance.  They 
knew  we  were  not  to  be  long  with  them,  and  would 
come,  especially  the  Native  Teachers,  and  ask  John 
the  meaning  of  different  passages  in  their  Gospels. 
In  the  evenings,  after  Native  Worship  in  the  Dining- 
Room,  always  packed  to  overflowing,  and  long  Bible 
talks,  we  could  hardly  get  them  to  leave  us. 

One  day,  after  hard  work  in  visiting,  ministering  to 
the  wants  of  the  sick,  teaching  and  talking  without 
a moment  to  ourselves,  I got  the  room  thoroughly 
aired  after  they  had  all  gone,  and  felt  fairly  entitled 
to  a good  long  read.  Minn  was  trimming  Native 
hats.  John  had  gone  off  with  his  Pundit  to  the 
Study.  So  I got  on  to  the  sofa  with  the  fourth 
volume  of  Carlyle’s  Cromwell ; when,  to  my  discom- 
fiture, Nalousi,  one  of  our  young  Native  Teachers, 
made  his  appearance  and  promptly  announced  his 
business.  He  wanted  a new  Hymn  translated,  Who 
is  He  in  yonder  Stall , into  Aniwan,  as  Mr.  Watt  had 
done  into  Tannese.  I told  him  the  Missi  was  engaged, 
and  didn’t  want  to  be  disturbed  any  more  to-night. 
He  said  that  didn't  matter  a bit,  as  I would  do  it. 
I told  him  that  I couldn’t,  but  he  informed  me  with 
certainty  that  I could  ! I explained  that  I was  very 
tired,  and  wanted  to  rest,  besides  wanting  to  read,  as 
the  books  were  lent  by  a Missionary  and  had  to  be 
returned.  Nalousi  showed  a serene  contempt  for  my 
reasoning,  and  stood  waiting.  I sat  back,  with  my 


3/8 


A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  1SS9 


book  up,  to  signify  that  the  interview  had  terminated  ; 
but  Nalousi  coolly  drew  out  a chair,  and  sat  down,  to 
signify  that  it  had  not ! I could  hardly  help  grinning 
behind  my  book,  but  soon  tossed  it  aside,  rather 
ashamed  of  myself.  Before  midnight,  with  Nalousi’s 
help,  we  had  the  whole  Hymn  translated. 

He  was  triumphant  ; and,  on  rising  to  leave,  he 
said,  “ Now,  Missi,  if  you  will  teach  us  to  sing  it  to- 
morrow morning,  we  will  come  and  take  the  organette 
into  the  Church  for  you  and  your  daughter.”  I 
said,  “ Why,  how  can  the  people  know  to  come  ? 
They  don’t  even  know  that  a new  Hymn  has  been 
translated.”  “ Leave  that  to  me,  Missi ! ” said  the 
worthy  fellow,  not  destitute  of  resources.  And,  sure 
enough,  we  heard  the  Church  Bell  next  morning,  as 
we  were  lingering  over  breakfast.  So  Minn  and  I 
hurried  into  Church,  to  find  quite  a large  Congregation 
waiting  for  their  singing  lesson  ! 

A few  Sundays  before,  as  we  all  walked  to  a distant 
Village  for  Afternoon  Service,  I was  reading  a trans- 
lation John  had  just  made  of  Take  the  Name  of  Jesus 
with  you,  and  humming  the  tune  under  breath  to  see 
how  the  words  would  fit,  when  the  Native  lads  pricked 
up  their  ears  and  asked  what  it  was.  They  became 
enthusiastic,  and  would  have  us  teach  them  there  and 
then  ; so  we  went  singing  along  the  road  ; and,  by 
the  time  of  our  return  home,  they  knew  both  the  air 
and  the  words.  Later  on,  they  learned  the  bass,  and 
they  can  sing  the  Hymn  very  nicely  in  parts. 

The  Aniwans  are  exceedingly  fond  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 


THE  LANGUAGE  OF  THE  HEART 


379 


Watt,  as  well  they  may  be  ; for  they  have  superin- 
tended the  Mission  on  Aniwa,  ever  since  we  were 
withdrawn,  and  done  everything  for  them  that  we 
could  have  done.  By  their  yearly  visits,  they  have  kept 
everything  in  vigorous  action,  at  a great  self-sacrifice 
on  their  part,  and  we  never  can  feel  too  deeply  grate- 
ful to  them.  It  might  reasonably  have  been  supposed, 
that  things  would  have  gone  back  a bit  in  the  absence 
of  their  Missionary  ; without  exactly  taking  Mrs. 
Poyser’s  view  in  reference  to  Converts,  that  “ they 
could  no  more  be  expected,  when  left,  to  keep  on  in 
their  religious  ways,  than  a dog  would  continue  to 
stand  on  his  hind  legs  with  nobody  to  look  at  him!” 
With  them  it  was  far  otherwise. 

It  did  us  great  good  to  be  with  our  Darkies  once 
again.  I understood  them  better  than  before,  and 
had  more  real  sympathy  with  them  in  many  respects. 
A conversation  I had  with  a dear  old  woman  deeply 
touched  me.  Her  daughter  is  married  to  one  of  our  old 
Mission  Boys,  and  both  are  off  to  Tanna  as  Native 
Teachers.  She  cries  for  her  daughter  ; and  she  says 
she  now  knows  what  my  heart  suffered,  when  our 
Children  had  to  be  sent  away.  She  said  : “ Missi, 
you  did  not  think  we  felt  like  you.  You  never  told 
us  your  troubles.  You  used  to  smile,  when  you  spoke 
of  your  Children  in  the  far-off  Land,  when  we  knew 
your  heart  was  crying  out  for  them.  We  knew  the 
language  0/  your  heart , Missi,  though  you  tried  to 
hide  it  from  us  ; and  we  Mothers  often  cried  about 
you  ! ” 


3So  A TOUR  ROUND  THE  ISLANDS  IN  iSi'9 


They  were  all  very  proud  of  Minn,  and  of  her  efforts 
to  learn  their  language.  They  told  her  a hundred 
times  a day  that  she  was  a real  Woman  of  Aniwa — 
thinking  her  worthy  even  of  such  an  honour.  She 
took  special  care  of  all  the  Invalids  ; and  two  dear 
old  men,  lying  at  the  gate  like  Lazarus,  and  as  poor, 
wept  bitterly  when  we  left,  saying  she  had  never 
missed  taking  tea  to  them  night  and  morning,  and 
“ that  her  bright  young  face  did  them  good.” 

The  loveliest  Child  by  far  on  this  island  is  a little 
John  Pa  ton , whom  his  venerable  namesake  would 
dearly  like  to  bring  up  with  his  own  family,  and 
educate  as  a Missionary.  But  don’t  you  think  we 
have  enough  of  our  own,  with  a blessing  ? . . . 

Ever  affectionately  yours, 

M.  Whitecross  Paton. 


THE  SCOTCH  CHURCH,  PORT  RESOLUTION. 

Memorial  of  Workers  and  Work  on  Tanna.  Dedicated  Oct.  2§th  1891. 


APPENDIX 

(NOTE  P.Y  REV.  WILLIAM  WATT,  MISSIONARY) 

The  accompanying  is  a photo  of  the  “Scotch  Church  ” at 
Port  Resolution,  Tanna,  the  first  place  in  the  New  Hebrides 
at  which  John  Williams  landed.  As  the  tablet  which 
hangs  over  the  main  entrance  states,  the  money  for  the 
building  was  raised  in  Scotland,*  and  it  was  erected  as  “A 
Memorial  of  Workers  and  Work  on  Tanna.”  The  bell 
(St  Paul)  was  the  gift  of  St.  Paul’s  Established  Church, 
Glasgow,  and  the  honour  of  floating  our  scheme  for  a 
Church  for  Port  Resolution  belongs  to  the  gifted  Pastor  of 

* By  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Watt.  Alas ! she  now  sleeps  beside  it,  having 
gone  to  her  reward  on  April  26th,  1894. — Editor. 

38i 


3S2 


APPENDIX 


the  said  congregation,  the  Rev.  James  Paton,  B.A.,  the 
Editor  of  the  Autobiography  of  John  G.  Paton,  his  brother. 

The  building  was  framed  by  our  fast  friends  Messrs.  A. 
Dean  & Sons,  Sydney,  and  was  erected  here  by  the  two 
Tanna  Missionaries,  with  the  help  of  two  Aneityumese  and 
the  people  of  Port  Resolution.  No  skilled  labour  was  em- 
ployed. It  was  forty  days  in  building,  and  has  proved  a 
source  of  blessing  to  Tanna.  The  building  can  be  seen  for 
miles  around,  and  is  a silent  witness  for  the  Truth,  as  well 
as  a memorial  of  the  many  workers  who  have  laboured  on 
Tanna.  It  is  forty  feet  by  twenty-two  feet,  has  four  stained 
glass  windows  on  each  side,  and  two  in  the  one  gable.  Its 
seats  are  fitted  with  movable  backs,  as  it  is  used  as  a School- 
house  as  well  as  a Church.  On  each  side  of  it  at  one  end 
there  are  writing  desks,  and  it  has  a platform  with  reading 
desk. 

The  building  is  “ a thing  of  beauty  and  a joy  for  ever  ” ; 
it  is  also  a very  useful  building.  Pray  that  it  may  be  the 
birthplace  of  many  souls  ! 

Port  Resolution,  Tanna, 

December  29th.  1802. 


printed  ^y  Hazell , Watson,  ir  Viney,  Ld.,  London  and  Aylesbury. 


